World City Guide

Situated on the River Tiber, between the Apennine Mountains and the Tyrrhenian Sea, the ‘Eternal City’ of Rome (Roma) was once the administrative centre of the mighty Roman Empire, governing a vast region that stretched from Britain to Mesopotamia. Today, it remains the seat of the Italian government and home to numerous ministerial offices but is superseded by Milan, in the industrial north, for business and finance.

The legendary beginnings of Rome are related in the tale of Romulus and Remus. Princess Rhea Silvia, ravished by Mars (the God of War), gave birth to the twins and abandoned them to fate. The River Tiber carried them to the Palatine Hill, where a she-wolf mothered the babes until their discovery by a shepherd. Romulus later killed Remus, before going on to found Rome in the marshy lowlands of seven hills. The anniversary of Rome’s foundation (21 April 753BC) is now marked by a public holiday. The historians’ version is no less astonishing. It traces the rise of the city from unimportant pastoral settlement (the earliest remains date back to the ninth century BC) to vast empire, ruled over by a string of emperors. Rome saw a second period of development during the 15th-century Renaissance, when the Papacy took up permanent residence in the city. Although Rome’s power has since waned, the city remains the essence of European civilisation.

Ruins dating from Rome’s glory days lie within an area known as Roma Antica (Ancient Rome) and include the monumental Colosseum and the Foro Romano (Roman Forum) – a crumbling legacy of pagan temples, broken marble and triumphal arches. Buildings from the Renaissance period are concentrated within the centro storico (historic centre), situated between Via del Corso and the Tevere (River Tiber). Here, a labyrinth of narrow, winding, cobbled side streets opens out onto magnificent piazzas presided over by Baroque churches, regal palaces and exquisite fountains. The romantic Piazza Navona with Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers, Piazza di Spagna and the sweeping Spanish Steps, and the Trevi Fountain immortalised by Fellini’s La Dolce Vita (1959), all lie within walking distance of each other. Modern life continues amid this theatre of breathtaking monuments, as thousands of years of history are animated by more recent innovations – sophisticated boutiques, rowdy pizzerias and a merry-go-round of cars, buses and mopeds. Across the river, to the west, lies the Vatican State – home to the Pope and spiritual centre of the Roman Catholic Church. South of the Vatican, one finds the bohemian quarter of Trastevere, packed with trattorie and small wine bars. Further south still is the Testaccio district, renowned for nightclubs and live music.

Tourism is a major source of income and visitors come and go throughout the year. The city is blessed with a warm Mediterranean climate, making Rome particularly pleasant to visit in autumn and spring. In August, it is hot and sticky and most of the locals head for the coast – many shops and bars close for the summer break and the streets are strangely empty save for visitors. Until recently, Rome was frequently criticised for being noisy, chaotic and poorly maintained. However, celebrations for the year 2000 prompted the completion of a massive urban renewal scheme. Tons of scaffolding were finally dismantled to reveal beautifully restored facades, cleverly revamped museums and a rationalised public transport system. Today, citizens and visitors alike continue to benefit from the improvements carried out for the Jubilee celebrations, when the Eternal City celebrated the fact that the millennium was 2,000 years since the birth of Christ.

Getting There By Air

Fiumicino Airport (FCO)
Tel: (06) 65951. Fax: (06) 6595 3646.
Website: www.adr.it

Rome’s principal airport (also known as Leonardo da Vinci) is located 26km (16 miles) southwest of the city centre. Fiumicino handles numerous domestic flights within Italy, as well as international flights to all major European cities and destinations further afield, including New York, Singapore, Buenos Aires, Cairo and Moscow. A free 24-hour shuttle service links the airport’s three terminals.

Major airlines: Italy’s national airline is Alitalia (tel: (06) 65643; website: www.alitalia.it). Other major airlines are Air China, Air France, British Airways, Air Canada, Continental Airlines, Japan Airlines, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines and Delta Airlines.

Airport facilities: Facilities include Banca di Roma counters, 24-hour bureaux de change, ATMs, left-luggage, a first aid facility and medical office for vaccinations, a pharmacy, a nursery, bars, restaurants, duty-free shops, post offices, APT tourist information (tel: (06) 6595 4471, closed on Sundays), a chapel and prayer room, hotel reservation and car hire (Avis, Europcar, Hertz, Italy By Car, Maggiore, Sixt and Targa Rent).

Business facilities: An ‘Executive Center’ in Terminal A (open daily 0700-2300) provides meeting rooms, secretarial and translation services and video conferencing. There are also several airline VIP lounges with telephone and fax facilities.

Transport to the city: Ferrovie dello Stato (tel: 89 20 21; website: www.trenitalia.com) offers a frequent service of non-stop trains to Rome’s Termini station. A single fare from the airport costs ¬9.50 (journey time – 31 minutes). There is also a slower train service (destination Orte or Fara Sabina), which stops at local stations on the way, including the centrally located Trastevere and well-connected Tiburtina stations. A single fare costs ¬5.00 (journey time – 22 and 41 minutes respectively). Tickets can be purchased at vending machines located inside domestic and international arrival halls, and from ticket counters or vending machines located just before the train tracks. Trains run from the airport to Rome 0637-2337 and from Rome to the airport 0552-2252. During the night, buses run from the airport to Rome 0115-0500 and from Tiburtina station in Rome (stopping at Termini station en route) to the airport 0030-0345. Tickets cost ¬3.60 or ¬5 if purchased directly on the bus. Taxis to the centre cost about ¬45-50 (more at night and on public holidays). Alternatively, private bus company Terravision (website: www.terravision.it) provides a shuttle service from Fiumicino that costs ¬9 one-way (or ¬15 return) and stops at Lepanto metro station and Termini train station. There are Terravision desks in all the arrivals halls. The journey lasts 70 minutes.

Ciampino Airport (CIA)
Tel: (06) 794 941. Fax: (06) 7949 4400.
Website: www.adr.it

Over 100 airlines use Ciampino, Rome’s second airport, located about 15km (9 miles) southeast of the city centre. In addition to charter flights and budget airlines, Ciampino is used as a military airbase.

Major airlines: Ryanair (tel: Ireland +353 1 249 7700 Mon-Sat; website: www.ryanair.com) operates flights from London Stansted and various other UK destinations to Ciampino Airport (and from Ciampino, flights to all over Europe), and Easyjet (tel: (848) 887 766; website: www.easyjet.com) operates flights from London Gatwick, Newcastle and Nottingham to Ciampino. Other airlines include Air Sicilia, Britannia and Corsair.

Airport facilities: Facilities include a bank, a bureau de change, a bar, a post office, gift shops, information and car hire (Avis, Europcar, Hertz, Thrifty Car Rental, Maggiore and Sixt).

Business facilities: A VIP lounge (open daily 0700-2300) is located inside the General Aviation Terminal.

Transport to the city: COTRAL buses (freephone: (800) 150 008; website: www.cotralspa.it) run from Ciampino airport to Ciampino train station, or Anagnina metro station (line A), and cost ¬1.00. From Anagnina, it is a direct 30-minute metro journey to Termini station; from Ciampino station, it is a direct 15-minute journey to Termini station. The bus starts at 0650 and stops running at 2340, when a taxi journey to the centre (which costs at least ¬45) may become the only option. Many airlines provide their own private bus service (for a fee) to the city centre; visitors should ask when purchasing their ticket. Terravision (website: www.terravision.it) provides a shuttle service to connect with all Ryanair and Easyjet flights. A return ticket costs ¬13.50 and can be bought from the Arrivals Hall in Ciampino.

Approximate flight times to Rome: From London is 2 hours 50 minutes; from New York is 8 hours 20 minutes; from Los Angeles is 14 hours 35 minutes; from Toronto is 8 hours 5 minutes; from Sydney is 23 hours 10 minutes.

Arrival/departure tax: None.

Getting There By Water

The port of Civitavecchia, located at Molo Vespucci, 00053 Civitavecchia (tel: (0766) 366201; website: www.port-of-rome.org) is run by the Autorità Portuale di Civitavecchia. Facilities include a waiting room, ATMs, left-luggage and a bar.

Ferry services: Ferry and hydrofoil services to and from Sardinian ports are run by a number of companies including Tirrenia Navigazione (tel: (199) 123 199; website: www.tirrenia.it), Moby Lines (tel: (06) 4201 1455 or (199) 303 040; website: www.mobylines.it), and Sardinia Ferries (tel: (0766) 500 714; website: www.corsicaferries.com).

Transport to the city: Trains from Civitavecchia to Rome run approximately every 30 minutes and the journey lasts about one hour depending on what sort of train it is. From Civitavecchia train station the port is a short taxi or (free) shuttle ride away. A first-class ticket on an Intercity train costs ¬9.30, while a second-class one-way ticket costs about ¬7. Taxis to central Rome cost about ¬100 – if there are no taxis waiting at the port, companies will come out on call (see Taxis in Getting Around). Some hotels send taxis to pick up their guests, which often works out cheaper.

Getting There By Road

There are 173,000km (107,500 miles) of roads in Italy, including 6,500km (4,038 miles) of motorway, linking all parts of the country. Motorways (autostrada) are prefixed by the letter ‘A’; European roads by the letter ‘E’ and state roads are prefixed by the letters ‘SS’. Over 85% of motorways have tolls. Road signs are international and traffic drives on the right. Undimmed headlights are prohibited in towns and cities but are compulsory when passing through tunnels and, since autumn 2002, headlights are required to be turned on whenever driving on motorways or any state roads. The minimum age for driving is 18 years. Passengers are required by law to wear seatbelts. The legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.05%. Speed limits are 130kph (81mph) on motorways, 90/110kph (56/68mph) on country roads, and 50kph (31mph) in urban areas. Fines for speeding and other driving offences are on-the-spot and particularly heavy. All vehicles must carry a red warning triangle, available at border posts, and a yellow or orange reflective jacket which must be worn at night or in bad visibility by motorists whose car breaks down. The latter is available at the AA shop in Dover. There is an on-the-spot fine of up to ¬138 for failing to wear it.

UK driving licences and EU pink-format licences are valid in Italy (UK green licences must be accompanied by an International Driving Permit) and a Green Card and motor insurance certificate are strongly recommended. A driving licence or a motorcycle driving licence is required for motorcycles over 49cc and the wearing of crash helmets is compulsory. Visitors should note that many petrol stations in town close between 1300 and 1500, though some now offer the self-service option payable by credit card.

The AA or RAC in Britain and the AAA in America have reciprocal agreements with the Automobile Club d’Italia – ACI, Via Marsala 8 (tel: (06) 49981; website: www.aci.it), who provide a useful advisory service as well as dealing with breakdowns.

Emergency breakdown service:
ACI 803 116

Routes to the city: Rome is encircled by a network of motorways. The A12 leads into Rome from the west and the A24 from the east. Ciampino Airport is connected to the city by Via Appia Nuova (SS7). The A1 runs between Rome, Florence and Milan, while to reach Venice, drivers should turn off the A1 at Bologna and take the A13.

Driving times to Rome: From Florence – 2 hours 30 minutes; from Milan – 6 hours; and from Venice – 6 hours.

Coach services: Eurolines Italia (tel: (199) 184 616; website: www.eurolines.it) runs international coaches, with connections to cities throughout Europe, such as London (via Paris). There is no central coach station in Rome, so coaches depart and terminate in front of Tiburtina train station, Via Tiburtina (metro stop Tiburtina). Domestic coach services covering northbound routes terminate outside the metro stations of Lepanto, Ponte Mammolo and Tiburtina, while those covering southbound routes terminate outside the metro stations of Anagnina and EUR Fermi.

Getting There By Rail

The Italian State Railway, Ferrovie dello Stato – FS (tel: 89 20 21, daily 0700-2100; website: www.trenitalia.com), runs a fast and efficient service throughout the country. Tickets can be purchased by credit card online (and then either picked up at one of the automatic ticket machines dotted across Rome station or aboard the train if you choose the ‘ticketless’ option during the web transaction) or by phone at the number above. Stazione Termini, Piazza Cinquecento, is Rome’s main station. Refurbished for the year 2000, its extensive facilities include left-luggage, carabinieri (army) and police stations, a tourist office, an Internet point, money exchange and six banks with ATMs, a post office, car and scooter rental, over a hundred shops selling everything from clothes to gifts, bars and fast-food restaurants. Other important stations include Tiburtina, Piazzale della Stazione Tiburtina; Trastevere, Piazza F Biondo, at the end of Viale Trastevere; Ostiense, Piazzale Ostiense. Automatic ticket machines are located in all main stations. Tickets must be validated in the yellow machines located on the station platforms prior to boarding, in order to avoid fines of ¬25.

Rail services: Most long-distance trains run to Termini station, which is also the main hub for the local transport network (metro and bus). However, the importance of the less centrally located stations (Tiburtina and Ostiense) grows as the night draws on and trains cease to run to Termini station. All international trains, including services to Paris (journey time – 14 hours 20 minutes), Munich (journey time – 10 hours), Vienna (journey time – 13 hours) and Zurich (journey time – 12 hours), leave from Termini station. Intercity trains run from Termini to all major Italian cities, including Florence (journey time – 2 hours 35 minutes), Naples (journey time – 2 hours) and Milan (journey time – 5 hours 30 minutes). Venice can only be reached on the faster Eurostar service (4 hours 35 minutes), or by taking a Eurostar train to Bologna and then an Intercity to Venice. Eurostar trains are at least 20% more expensive and only stop at major cities like Florence, Bologna, Milan and Naples. Tickets for Eurostar trains are always accompanied by a reservation for a specific train; if you miss that train you have to book, and pay the booking fee of about ¬6, again.

Transport to the city: Termini station is the main hub for the local transport network (metro and bus). Day and night buses run from Tiburtina and Ostiense, while tram no. 8 runs from Trastevere station to the centrally located Largo Argentina, which is only a few minutes walk from the Pantheon and Piazza Navona. Taxis are also available.

Getting Around

Termini station is the main hub of Rome’s transport system. The city transport authority, ATAC (freephone: (800) 431 784 information, daily 0800-2000; tel: (06) 4695 2027 customer service and complaints; fax: (06) 4695 2087; website: www.atac.roma.it), operates the city’s large fleet of buses and trams. The network consists of 297 bus lines and six tram lines, which cover the entire city and run daily 0530-2400. After 2400, there are 22 night bus routes.

The regional transport authority COTRAL (freephone: (800) 150 008; website: www.cotralspa.it) runs blue buses throughout the Lazio region. Another company, Met.Ro, is responsible for three suburban railway lines departing from Termini, Ostiense and Flaminio stations (and going to Pantano, Lido di Ostia and Viterbo respectively), and Rome’s two metro lines (A and B), which cross at Termini station. The easily mastered metro service operates daily 0530-2330 (until 2430 Saturday), though Line A will close at 2100 daily for three years from January 2005 in order for much-needed modernization work to improve the air-filtering system to be carried out. Two shuttles (Navetta A1 and Navetta A2) will replace the metro above ground during those hours. For information, call the ATAC freephone number. Plans to forge a new third line have been in the works for years but have not come any closer to fruition. Just extending the two existing metro lines proved to be trouble enough, with the uncovering of archaeological vestiges either postponing or preventing any advances.

Night buses run daily 0000-0530, along 22 routes, and are marked on bus stops (fermata) and buses with the letter ‘N’.

All tickets must be pre-purchased and are available for sale at ATAC counters, tabacchi (newsagents, which can be recognized by their large white and black T sign) and at automatic ticket dispensers at metros. Tickets should be validated at the beginning of the journey (to avoid a hefty ¬51 on- the-spot fine should a controller check your ticket). The cheapest ticket, the Biglietto Integrato a Tempo – BIT costs ¬1.00 and is valid for up to 75 minutes of travel on ATAC buses and trams, or for one trip on the metro or suburban train lines.

Day (BIG) and week (CIS) passes, valid on all transport in the municipality, cost ¬4.00 and ¬16.00 respectively. Monthly passes are also available. For those staying only for two or three days, or a long weekend, the company has introduced the Biglietto Turistico – BTI, which costs ¬11.00 and is valid for three days on buses, trams, the metro and local trains within Rome. The BIRG pass covers a day’s worth of transport within the whole Lazio region, and costs between ¬1.80 and ¬8 (depending on the number of zones covered).

Taxis
Taxi ranks are located at various points around the city centre, though there are notoriously never any when you most need them. With only one taxi for every inhabitant, it is hardly surprising that if there is a strike or demonstration (both frequent occurrences in Rome) or it rains a taxi with its light on is an almost miraculous occurrence. Visitors are advised to use only the yellow and white official taxis. Surcharges are applied for each item of luggage, night service (2200-0700), on Sundays, public holidays, and for out-of-town journeys, such as airport transfers. While taxis may be called by telephone, the meter is turned on immediately after the call and not on pick-up. Tipping of 5-10% is gratefully received, although Italians often do not bother.

Companies include Radio Taxi 3570 (tel: (06) 3570; website: www.3570.it), Radio Taxi Samarcanda (tel: (06) 5551; website: www.samarcanda.it), Pronto Taxi (tel: (06) 6645), and Radio Taxi Tevere (tel: (06) 41571). Taxi hire costs, on average, ¬0.78 per kilometre (more out of town).

Limousines
Centrally located providers include Autonoleggi Bevilacqua, Via San Nicola da Tolentino 20, Piazza Barberini (tel: (06) 483 756), which hires out limousines on an hourly or daily basis, and Airport Connection Service, Via A Fava 28/d, Zona Trionfale (tel: (06) 338 3221; website: www.airportconnection.it), which chauffeurs single passengers or groups to the airport but also hires out limousines for day or hourly use. Visitors should expect to pay from about ¬30 per hour.

Driving in the City
The interweaving paths of mopeds, pedestrians and trams, the erratic driving, the one-way systems and the frequent traffic jams make driving in Rome an experience that is best avoided. The authorities have reacted to traffic congestion (and the ensuing pollution) by cutting off large areas of the city centre to non-resident traffic during business hours, and (to a lesser extent) in the evening. Exceptions are usually made for visitors driving to their hotel.

Parking is as problematic as driving. Pay-and-display meters charge about ¬1 per hour (although the fee may be waived in the evenings and at weekends). There are various underground car parks in the city – the one at Villa Borghese is open 24 hours. The wily may snap up a free parking space but anything marked Sosta Vietata (no parking) is to be avoided – the municipal police have a nasty habit of towing away or, even worse, clamping illegally parked cars and then charging a huge sum for their return. Unlucky owners should contact the municipal police (tel: (06) 67691).

Car Hire
Cars can be hired by drivers aged 21 years (23 for some firms) and above, on presentation of a passport and valid driving licence (held for at least one year). A credit card number or cash deposit is requested and a valid international insurance policy is also necessary. Full insurance is advised. A small car costs from as low as ¬30 per day on the weekend, and ¬50 per day in the week. Providers include Avis (tel: (199) 100 133; website: www.avisautonoleggio.it), Europcar (tel: (800) 014 410; website: www.europcar.it), Hertz (tel: (199) 112 211; website: www.hertz.it), Sixt (tel: (199) 100 666; website: www.e-sixt.it), and the locally based Maggiore (tel: (848) 867 067; website: www.maggiore.it) which also rents environmentally-friendly electricity-operated cars, all with various locations throughout the city.

Bicycle & Scooter Hire
Bicycles are available for hire at Bici & Baci, Via Viminale 5 (tel: (06) 482 8443). Scooters are available at Happy Rent, Via Farini 3 (tel: (06) 481 8185; website: www.happyrent.com), and Roma Scooter Rent, Via in Lucina 13-14 (tel: (06) 686 4283), located off Via del Corso near the Parliament. RomaRent, Vicolo de’ Bovari 7A, near Campo de’ Fiori (tel/fax: (06) 689 6555), has scooters, bicycles and cars for hire. Bicycle hire costs from around ¬6.50 per hour up to ¬15 per day, while scooters cost from ¬38 to ¬80 per day depending on engine size.

Business

Business Profile
Rome’s left-wing mayor, Walter Veltroni (elected in 2001), has continued work on a major investment programme set up by his predecessor. The scheme aims to maximise the possibilities opened up by tourism and to encourage major national and multinational corporations to have a presence in Rome – the political and administrative centre of Italy. These initiatives are set to counter the negative effects of the Government’s decentralisation programme, which could result in a decreasing role for the capital city as a public sector employer. Mergers and acquisitions, combined with the government-initiated privatisation process, add further elements of risk to the local economy.

The strength of the national economy lies in the service sector, which accounted for 68% of GDP in 2004. Tourism is the country’s largest industry, with Rome as the ‘number one’ destination. Other significant industries in the capital include finance and banking, insurance, printing, publishing and fashion. Italy’s film industry is located at nearby Cinecittà. Since Cinecittà was inaugurated in 1937, it has turned out more than 3,000 films, 47 of them Oscar-winners. Though it suffered a long period of neglect in the 80s and 90s, since becoming largely privatized in 1997 (the state now holds only a 25% share) the studios have gone from strength to strength hosting major big-budget productions such as Martin Scorsese’s Gangs of New York, sequences from Mel Gibson’s The Passion of Christ and Steven Soderbergh’s Ocean’s 12, and the massive HBO-BBC co-production Rome. The business district is largely clustered within the centro storico (historic centre) – partly because no one else can afford to pay the high rents. Trade Fairs and large business conventions are normally held in EUR, a modern suburb 6km (4 miles) south of the city centre. The United Nations Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO) is based in Rome, as is the World Food Programme (WFP), the United Nations International Fund for Agricultural Development (IFAD), and the International Centre for the Study of the Preservation and Restoration of Cultural Property (ICCROM).

Unemployment in Rome, which was 11.7% in 2003, is higher than the national average, which was 8.6%. However, it is decreasing (it was 14.7% in 2000) and the city continues to reap the rewards of the massive investment programme set up for the year 2000 celebrations – many of the projects completed in the years afterwards. Tourism was given a fine boost – hotels were upgraded, museums refurbished and the public transport system rationalised.

Business Etiquette
Although less formal than their Milanese counterparts, Romans do take their business seriously. Greeting take the form of a handshake (social kissing is reserved for friends and family) and then business cards are exchanged. If possible, it is best to have one side printed in Italian and one in English – all company literature should be provided in Italian. Colleagues should be addressed by their surname and academic/professional titles respected. Although some of the Italian business community will speak some English or French, Italian is the dominant language of business. It is wise to take the precaution of employing an interpreter, to minimise the degree of misunderstandings.

In Rome, appearance counts. It is best to dress in a smart suit (with tie for men and stylish accessories for women). The odd designer label does no harm. Personal relationships are extremely important and it is unlikely that decisions will be made before trust has been established between the two parties. Business lunches provide the ideal opportunity to build relationships and small talk is an essential part of any business meeting. Standard office hours are 0900-1730, with an hour-long lunch break.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
There is simply too much to see in Rome – the Vatican City alone can easily swallow up an entire weekend. Most visitors are overwhelmed and remain torn between running from sight to sight in order to ‘do’ everything or lingering over a couple of monuments and museums. The latter option is strongly recommended – even then, it is best to punctuate cultural trips with ice creams, coffees and serene walks in the city’s parks (the Villa Borghese is one of the loveliest). As for most holy sites, clothing that covers up midriffs, shoulders and legs is recommended, particularly for the Vatican.

The centro storico is the obvious starting point, with the greatest concentration of classical and Christian sites enclosed in a relatively small space. Stumbling upon ancient frescoes, Renaissance fountains and beautiful piazzas are part of the pleasures of wandering around Rome’s streets. Rome has over 400 churches and four major basilicas – St Peter’s, St John Lateran, St Mary Major and St Paul’s. However, it is San Clemente (on Via San Giovanni in Laterano) which encapsulates the multi-layered labyrinth of Rome. At street level, there is a 12th-century basilica with beautiful mosaics. Down one level is a well-preserved Roman basilica. Deeper still are more ancient Roman remains, until finally, at the deepest level, is the temple to the oriental cult of Mithras.

The Ministry of Culture organises the Settimana dei Beni Culturali (Cultural Week) (tel: (06) 67231; website: www.beniculturali.it), which is usually held in April or May and allows free entry to all state-owned museums, public monuments and excavation sites.

Tourist Information
Azienda di Promozione Turistica di Roma (APT)
Via Parigi 5
Tel: (06) 488 991 or 3600 4399 (tourist information service, daily from 0900-1930). Fax: (06) 481 9316.
Website: www.romaturismo.com
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1900.

Other APT branches are at Termini Station and Fiumicino Airport and look out for the eight other green tourist information kiosks dotted around the city near all the major tourist sites (open daily 0930-1930) such as near the Vatican (in Piazza Pia) and the Imperial Fora (in Piazza del Tempio della Pace).

Another useful source of information is the Anglo-centric Enjoy Rome, Via Marghera 8A (tel: (06) 445 1843; website: www.enjoyrome.com), near Termini Station. You can contact the Ente Nazionale per il Turismo (ENIT), Via Marghera 2 (tel: (06) 49711; website: www.enit.it), for information on Italian areas outside of Rome and the Lazio region; their offices are not open to the public however.

Passes
City passes come and go in Rome, but few ever take off. There are however two interesting museum passes available, the Museum Card and the Archaeological Card (tel: (06) 3996 7700, information). The first allows entrance to the National Roman Museum’s four sites – Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, Palazzo Altemps, Baths of Diocletian and Crypta Balbi; the second allows entrance to those sites plus the Colosseum, the Palatine, the Baths of Caracalla, the tomb of Cecilia Metella and Villa dei Quintilli. The passes cost ¬9 and ¬20 respectively and are valid for seven days from the first day of use. They can be purchased at any of the participating monuments or museums.

Key Attractions

Foro Romano (Roman Forum)
and Palatino (Palatine)
The Roman Forum is now a heap of marble fragments, columns and floor layouts. A leap of imagination is required to recreate the former marketplace that was the political, commercial and social heart of ancient Rome and the symbolic centre of an Empire stretching to Greece, Sicily and Carthage. Fire, barbarians and pillaging builders in medieval and Renaissance times contributed to the Forum’s present state of disrepair but the Forum was only revealed during the excavation work of the 19th century. A bird’s-eye view is gained from behind Piazza del Campidoglio, while a closer look can be had from along Via Sacra, which runs through the heart of the Forum. Among the best preserved and most fascinating monuments are the AD203 triumphal Arch of Septimius Severus (built to celebrate victory over the Parthinians) and the remains of Caesar’s rostra, from where his great speeches were declaimed. Another stunning feature is the former atrium of the House of the Vestal Virgins and the adjacent Temple of Vesta, a circular building where the vestal virgins were entrusted in keeping the eternal flame alight. Just up from the Arch of Titus in the Forum is the Palatine where the palaces of the Roman emperors stood.

Piazza di Santa Maria Nova 53 (off Via dei Fori Imperiali)
Tel: (06) 699 0110 or (06) 3996 7700.
Transport: Metro Colosseo; bus to Via dei Fori Imperiali or Piazza Venezia.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1930 (summer); daily 0900-1630 (winter), last entry one hour before closing time.
Admission: Free for Foro Romano; ¬8 for combined Palatine and Colosseum ticket.

Foro Traiano e Mercati di Traiano
(Trajan’s Forum and Trajan’s Markets)
Inaugurated in AD 112-113, Trajan’s Forum was the last built and most impressive of the Fora. The complex contained a main square, a basilica, two libraries and was completed by the markets of the same name, a sort of Roman, and remarkably well-preserved, equivalent of a shopping mall. The markets contained about 150 small shops spread over six storeys. Trajan’s column (which stands 38 m or 125 ft high) is widely regarded as one of the greatest works of Roman art, and was probably located between the two libraries on a base containing the burial urns of the Emperor and his wife. Its beautifully carved reliefs tell the tale of Trajan’s war campaigns in Dacia (now Romania). On the top of the column stood a statue of the emperor. This was removed by Pope Sixtus V in 1585 and replaced with a statue of St Peter made to face the direction of the basilica dedicated to the saint that was being built at the time.

Via IV Novembre 94
Tel: (06) 679 0048.
Transport: Any bus to Piazza Venezia.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1900 (summer), last entry at 1800; Tues-Sun 0900-1800 (winter), last entry at 1700.
Admission: ¬6.20.

Colosseo (Colosseum)
Near to Via Sacra and the fourth-century Arco di Costantino (Arch of Constantine) lies the gigantic oval of the Colosseum – 186m (620ft) long, 153m (510ft) wide and about 47m (157ft) high. Emperor Vespasian began construction in AD72 and work was completed eight years later by his son Titus. It was the scene for entertainment that one can hardly comprehend – gladiatorial conquests between men, lions and wild beasts, with death guaranteed. The ‘games’ were finally outlawed in the fifth century. The stadium has been pillaged over the centuries and rocked by earthquakes. Today, only its skeletal framework remains, with the winding passages used to force animals up to the battlefield of the arena (formerly underground) now exposed.

Piazza del Colosseo
Tel: (06) 3996 7700.
Website: www.pierreci.it (online booking)
Transport: Metro Colosseo; bus to Piazza del Colosseo.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1930 (summer); daily 0900-1630 (winter), last entry one hour before closing time.
Admission: ¬8 + ¬2 supplement when there are exhibitions (ticket also allows entry to the Palatine).

Pantheon
The best-preserved and most beautifully proportioned of Rome’s ancient monuments, the Pantheon has become an emblem of the city. Built by Hadrian between AD119 and AD128, as a temple to the gods, the Pantheon was converted to a Christian church in AD608 – the key to its miraculous survival. The radius of the dome is exactly equivalent to the height and a 9-m (30ft) hole, known as the oculus, in the dome’s centre allows light (and rain) into the building. Statues of the deities would once have decorated the interior. Now the focal point of interest is the tomb of Raphael. Most astonishing of all are the large brass doors, which belonged to the original Roman building.

Piazza della Rotonda
Tel: (06) 6830 0230.
Transport: Bus to Largo Argentina or Via del Corso.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0830-1930, Sun 0900-1800; public holidays 0900-1300.
Admission: Free.

Cappella Sistina & Musei Vaticani
(Sistine Chapel & Vatican Museums)
An awe-inspiring glimpse of Michaelangelo’s depiction of The Creation is worth the queues and crowds that go hand-in-hand with a visit to the Vatican City. Michaelangelo grudgingly accepted Julius II’s commission to paint frescoes on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel – built as a private chapel of the popes between 1475 and 1480. Work began in May 1508, the frescoes were unveiled in August 1511, and completed in October 1512. 21 years later, a reluctant Michaelangelo painted the Last Judgement on the wall behind the altar, adding his own aged face below the figure of Christ. Pope Pius IV was scandalised by the display of nudity and the offending genitalia had to be concealed by hastily painted loincloths – most have been removed during restoration work. In fact, the recent restoration of the Old Testament scenes has caused great controversy. Although eclipsed by Michaelangelo’s artistry, the Renaissance paintings that line the walls are fine works, created by the masters – including Michaelangelo’s own teacher: Ghirlandaio.

The Vatican Museums alone could easily eat up a day or two of a trip to Rome. Highlights include the Stanze di Raffaello (Raphael’s Rooms), the Etruscan Museum (depicting Italy before the Romans) and the Pio-Clementino Museum – containing the world’s largest collection of Classical statues.

Viale Vaticano 100
Tel: (06) 6988 4947. Fax: (06) 6988 1573.
Website: www.vatican.va
Transport: Metro Ottaviano; bus to Piazza del Risorgimento.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0845-1645 with last entry at 1520, Sat 0845-1345 with last entry at 1220 (Early Mar-Oct); Mon-Sat 0845-1345 with last entry at 1220 (Nov-Early Mar); last Sun of month 0845-1345 with last entry at 1220.
Admission: ¬12, free last Sun of month; concessions available.

Basilica di San Pietro (St Peter’s Basilica)
St Peter’s Basilica lies above a former shrine, which is said to mark the burial ground of the saint. Pope Julius II pulled down the original structure (despite its venerable age of 1,000 years) in 1506 (with his architect Bramante in tow) in order to build a shiny new basilica. Construction lasted 120 years, during which time a team of architects and artists (including Alberti, Bramante, Raphael, Peruzzi, Sangallo the Younger and Michaelangelo) struggled over this enormous edifice. Michaelangelo was responsible for the huge dome and supporting drum but died in 1564, before work was finally completed in 1590. The basilica’s interior is an unashamed display of the power of the Church. Amid the grandeur (in the first chapel on the right) lies Michaelangelo’s Pietà (1498/9). Arnolfo da Cambio’s bronze statue of St Peter (1296), in the central aisle, has become famed for its foot worn to a nub by pilgrims’ kisses. Bernini’s Throne of St Peter (1665), above the papal altar (made with bronze purloined from the Pantheon on the Pope’s orders) dominates the far end of the nave. Optional extras include a trip (via lift or stairs) into the dome, the Vatican Gardens (pre-booked guided tours only), and the Vatican Grottoes, containing papal tombs. Access to the Necropolis below the Grottoes (the legendary site of St Peter’s remains) is allowed with written permission only.

Piazza San Pietro
Tel: (06) 6988 1662 (pilgrim and tourist information centre, open Mon-Sat 0830-1830).
Transport: Metro Ottaviano; bus to Piazza del Risorgimento.
Opening hours: Daily 0700-1900 (Apr-Oct), last entry 15 minutes before closing time; daily 0700-1800 (Nov-Mar).
Admission: Free.

St Peter’s Dome
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1800 (summer); daily 0800-1700 (winter), last entry 15 minutes before closing time.
Admission: ¬4 (without lift); ¬5 (with lift).

Necropolis
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700. Only small, pre-arranged groups may enter. Applications should be made in writing to the Ufficio Scavi, Fabbrica di San Pietro, 00120 Città del Vaticano, (tel: (06) 6988 5318; fax: (06) 6987 3017 or (06) 6988 5518; e-mail: scavi@fsp.va) several days prior to visit.
Admission: ¬10.

Vatican Gardens/Vatican Guided Tours Office
Tel: (06) 6988 4676 (Mon-Sat). Fax: (06) 6988 5100.
Organised tours take place on Saturdays at 1000 and can be booked several days in advance.
Admission: ¬9.

Musei Capitolini (Capitoline Museums)
The oldest public collection in the world, the Capitoline Museums are made up of two separate buildings: the Palazzo Nuovo houses the country’s most important collection of Roman sculpture (including the original of the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius which stands proudly in the middle of the Piazza del Capidoglio); the Palazzo dei Conservatori and Braccio Nuovo house more ancient sculpture as well as Renaissance and Baroque art.

Piazza del Campidoglio
Tel: (06) 3996 7800. Fax: (06) 678 5488.
Website: www.museicapitolini.org
Transport: Any bus to Piazza Venezia
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-2000, last entry at 1900.
Admission: ¬6.20 (+ ¬1.60 exhibition supplement), ¬9,90 combined Capitoline Museums and Centrale Montemartini ticket (see in Further Distractions below).

Fontana di Trevi (Trevi Fountain)
A string of legends surround the Trevi Fountain, which is situated amid the labyrinthine streets off Via del Tritone. It is said that a virgin came across a three-way (tre-vie) spring, causing the original fountain to be built. More recently, the far-from-virginal Anita Ekberg immortalised the fountain in the famous scene of Fellini’s La Dolce Vita (1959). According to myth, a coin cast in these waters will ensure a return visit to Rome. The Baroque extravaganza was designed by Nicolò Salvi for Pope Clement XII and completed in 1762. The statues (representing Abundance, Agrippa, Salubrity, the Virgin and Neptune guiding a chariot drawn by sea horses) appear as a cast of characters performing a melodrama, with a Renaissance palace for their backdrop and craggy rocks in the foreground.

Piazza di Trevi
Transport: Bus to Piazza San Silvestro or Metro Line A to Barberini.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

The Spanish Steps and Keats-Shelley Memorial House
The Piazza di Spagna district is little changed from 18th-century prints depicting the area – and is still dominated by the elegant double steps known as the Spanish Steps. These were designed in 1723-26 by Francesco de Sanctis to link Via del Babuino with Via Felice – the first great street planned by Sixtus V (1585-90). Reminiscent of the grand ascent to the Sacré Coeur in Paris, the steps lead up to the 16th-century Trinità dei Monti. From here, spectacular views over the city rooftops more than warrant the steep climb. The Spanish Steps acquired their name from the neighbouring Spanish Embassy but the area is more intimately associated with England – even becoming known to the rather provincial Romans as er ghetto de l’Inglesi (English Ghetto). The tourists on the Grand Tour of the 18th and 19th centuries (including Keats, Shelley, Byron and the Brownings) helped to establish the district’s reputation as a cosmopolitan artistic quarter. At the foot of the steps lies the boat-shaped Barcaccia fountain, designed in 1627 by Bernini. To the right stands the modest Keats-Shelley Memorial House, where 25-year-old John Keats died of tuberculosis in 1821. Exhibits include pictures and prints, private letters, an urn bearing Shelley’s ashes and a lock of Keats’ tawny red hair.

Keats-Shelley Memorial House
Piazza di Spagna 26
Tel: (06) 678 4235. Fax: (06) 678 4167.
Website: www.keats-shelley-house.org
Transport: Metro Spagna.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1300 and 1500-1800, Sat 1100-1400 and 1500-1800.
Admission: ¬3.50.

Piazza Navona
This dramatic piazza, lined with cafés and restaurants, lies at the heart of the centro storico. Its oval shape follows the form of the former stadium, built in AD86 by Emperor Domitian. During the Renaissance, the site was flooded to stage mock naval battles. The piazza gained its current form in the mid-17th century, when Pope Innocent X commissioned Borromini to design the Church of Sant’Agnese. In front of the church Bernini built the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers), adorned with powerful figures representing the four great rivers (the Nile, the Danube, the Ganges and the Rio de la Plata or River Plate) which in turn represented the four areas of the world known in Borromini’s time (Africa, Europe, Asia and America respectively).

Transport: Bus to Largo Argentina or Corso Rinascimento.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

Villa & Galleria Borghese
Just to the east of the Spanish Steps lies green relief from sightseeing – the sculpture-scattered gardens landscaped in the 17th century for Cardinal Scipione Borghese (nephew of Pope Paul V). This area includes the city zoo, Piazza di Siena arena, mock ancient temples, imitation medieval castles and an artificial lake. Unfortunately, the most playful elements of this Baroque extravaganza, trick fountains which sprayed unwitting passers-by, no longer exist. The pull of culture may be strong enough to lure the resting visitor into the Casino Borghese, a treasure trove of sculpture and antiquities, the Museo Etrusco (Etruscan Museum) in nearby Villa Giulia, with its remarkable sarcophagus of the reclining ‘Bride and Bridegroom’ from Cerveteri, or the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea (National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art) featuring Italian art of the 19th and 20th centuries housed in a massive neo-classical palazzo built in 1912. However, the Galleria Borghese (home to Bernini’s most famous work, Apollo and Daphne) should be seen first (ticket reservation is obligatory and visitors are only admitted every two hours).

Galleria Borghese
Piazzale del Museo Borghese 5
Tel: (06) 32810 (information and booking) or (06) 8413979. Fax: (06) 3265 1329.
Website: www.galleriaborghese.it
Transport: Metro Spagna; bus or tram to Via Veneto.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1930, last entry at 1700.
Admission: ¬8.50 (reservation required); concessions available.

Villa Giulia
Piazzale di Villa Giulia 9
Tel: (06) 320 0562.
Transport: Tram 3 or 19.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0815-1915, last entry at 1815.
Admission: ¬4.

Further Distractions

Galleria Doria Pamphilj
A British voice with a cut-glass accent issuing from the hand-held free audioguide leads visitors through the picture-clogged rooms, lavish furnishings and ageing sculptures – in short, the excessive wealth of the powerful Doria Pamphilj family, a pillar of Rome’s papal aristocracy. Jonathan Doria Pamphilj, the half-British sibling and heir, along with his sister, of the Doria Pamphilj fortunes is a modern-day prince and recalls childhood memories of roller-skating along the parquet floor of the 18th-century ballroom – tiny indentations prove the truth of his tale. The rambling palace is still occupied and a number of the private apartments are open to the public (mornings only) for a small additional fee. Works by Correggio, Caravaggio and Velázquez are on show here, as well as some amusing pieces by lesser-known artists.

Piazza del Collegio Romano 2
Tel: (06) 679 7323. Fax: (06) 678 0939.
E-mail: arti.rm@doriapamphilj.it
Website: www.doriapamphilj.it
Transport: Bus to Piazza Venezia.
Opening hours: Fri-Wed 1000-1700.
Admission: ¬8; concessions available.

Campo de’ Fiori
From Monday to Saturday, each day at dawn, stall holders at Rome’s best-loved fruit and vegetable market set up their wares at Campo de’ Fiori. This down-to-earth square (surrounded by tumbledown orange-ochre facades) is a far cry from the more grandiose piazzas of the centro storico. Here one encounters the friendliness and spontaneity for which Romani are so renowned. Come sunset, some of the city’s liveliest and most authentic wine bars and trattorie spill their tables out onto the cobbles, as locals and visitors, famous actors and ordinary office workers alike flock here to eat and drink below the stars.

Campo de’ Fiori
Transport: Bus to Largo Argentina.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat dawn-dusk.
Admission: Free.

Centrale Montemartini (Montemartini Art Centre)
One of Rome’s most intriguing and memorable museums, the Centrale Montemartini displays four hundred pieces of Roman sculpture from the Capitoline collection of ancient sculpture displayed among the gleaming machinery and furnaces of a former electricity power plant. Initally intended as a stop-gap solution during renovations on the Capitoline Museums, its popularity has ensured it a place on the Roman museum scene.

Via Ostiense 106
Tel: (06) 574 8042/30. Fax: (06) 575 4207.
Website: www.centralemontemartini.org
Transport: Bus 23 or Metro B: Piramide.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0930-1900, last entry at 1800.
Admission: ¬4.20 (or ¬9.90 for a joint ticket including entrance to the Capitoline Museums).

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Roma Antica (tel: (06) 45443179; e-mail: davidjlown@yahoo.co.uk; website: www.roma-antica.co.uk) offers a wide variety of tours of Rome’s archeological sites and most attractive or historic areas. The guide, David Lown, is a writer and art historian from Cambridge. Departure points vary, depending on the tour. Tours cost ¬25 (excluding admission fees), last from two to two-and-a-half hours and are available seven days a week (apart from the tour of the Vatican Museums). They include The Roman Forum, the Colosseum, the Campus Martius (which takes in much of what is known as the historic centre), the Vatican Museums and a tour entitled ‘From the Jewish Ghetto to Trastevere’. Groups never exceed six people. Private tours can also be arranged.

Also Enjoy Rome (see Tourist Information) offers a number of walking and bike tours in and around Rome, including a tour by bus and foot of the Catacombs and the Appian Way. Prices start at ¬15 and there’s a maximum of 25 people per tour.

Bus Tours
The number 110 open double-decker roofless ATAC bus (freephone: (800) 431 784, information) departs every 45 minutes (daily 0900-2030) from Piazza dei Cinquecento in front of Termini Station for a two-hour tour (with commentary in English) around Rome’s main sights (there are 11 stops en route). Tickets and a leaflet outlining the itinerary are available in English at any tourist information office. The tour costs ¬12.91 if tickets are bought from the kiosk in Piazza dei Cinquecento (or ¬13.94 if bought on the bus) and passengers can get on and off the bus throughout the day.

The environmentally-friendly Archeobus departs every hour (daily 1000-1700 in summer, 1000-1600 in winter) from Piazza Venezia (off Piazza San Marco) for a tour that starts at the Baths of Caracalla and then makes several stops on the Via Appia Antica (Appian Way). Tickets cost ¬7.75 and can be bought aboard the bus.

Boat Tours
Rome now has a public river boat service along the Tiber. The service, run by Battelli di Roma, Via della Tribuna di Tor de’ Specchi 15 (tel: (06) 678 9361; www.battellidiroma.it), makes six stops between Ripa Grande in Trastevere and the Duca D’Aosta Bridge near the Olympic Stadium. Tickets cost ¬1 for a single journey of up to seven stops (three of which have wheelchair access) and can be bought on board or at any of the tourist information points. The same company also organises four daily cruises of an hour and 10 minutes with commentary (¬10), romantic nighttime cruises with dinner that start at ¬30 (¬62 for a full dinner and live music) and a boat service to the site of Ostia Antica that leaves from Marconi Bridge every morning at 0915. It costs ¬11 for a return ticket, takes two hours and 15 minutes and there is a two-hour stopover at the ruins before departing again at 1330. Ask at the city tourist information offices and kiosks for more information and tickets, or contact Battelli di Roma.

Other Tours
Fly 150m up into the sky in the largest ‘tethered’ balloon in the world for awe-inspiring 360° views of the Eternal city. The balloon is anchored in the Villa Borghese park near the Galoppatoio and leaves every 20-25 minutes from 0930 daily until dusk. The ‘flight’ lasts 20 minutes. Price ¬15 on weekdays and ¬18 euro on weekends (concessions ¬12). Tuesdays and Fridays sip an aperitivo in flight as you watch the sun set for ¬25 (book beforehand). No flights when raining or windy (tel: (06) 32111511; website: www.aerophile.it)

Excursions

For a Half Day

Ostia Antica: A 40-minute train ride from Piramide station or a pleasant drive along Via del Mare, is Ostia Antica – Imperial Rome’s main port from the second to ninth centuries AD. It was founded in the seventh century BC, by King Ancus Marcius, and lay abandoned until excavations in the 19th century. The shoreline has now withdrawn 3km (2 miles) away to the present Lido di Ostia and, at first glance, all that can be seen is a network of thoroughfares with the odd upstanding column. However, a few hours spent in this quiet spot and the imagination will conjure up the former thriving town and the day-to-day lives of its inhabitants. The main artery, the Decumanus Maximus, leads to an amphitheatre with fantastic acoustics, which is perfect for a peaceful picnic. Mosaics at the Forum of the Corporations depict the produce sold or trade practised, while the bar, Thermopiliu, with its wide marble counter and lively fresco, evokes leisure time. Temples to a host of deities summon up the religious life and the homes of Ostia’s inhabitants reveal mosaic interiors, while communal latrines are testament to more mundane activities. The museum displays coins, glassware and statues. The site (Viale dei Romagnoli 717, tel: (06) 5635 8099; website: www.ostiaantica.net) is open daily 0830-1930 (last entry at 1800) from April to October, daily 0830-1700 (last entry at 1600) from November to February, and daily 0830-1800 (last entry at 1700) in March. Admission costs ¬4; concessions available.

For a Whole Day

Tivoli: A 30km (20 miles) drive east of Rome (along the A24) lies the hilltop town of Tivoli. Alternatively, travellers can take a COTRAL bus from Ponte Mammolo metro stop or a train from Termini or Tiburtina stations (direction Avezzano). Both stop at Tivoli. Only some of the COTRAL buses stop at Hadrian’s Villa so be sure to ask first. From Tivoli train station, take local bus no. 4 to get there.

Conquered by the Romans in 338BC, the town became the prized spot upon which to build luxurious villas and homes for wealthy families. The Villa d’Este (tel: (199) 766 166; website: www.villadestetivoli.info) is one such folly, built in 1550, according to the whim of art patron Cardinal Ippolito d’Este (son of Lucrezia Borgia). The state apartment is decorated with the swirling frescoes and paintings of Correggio, Da Volterra and Perrin del Vaga, while outside are the vast Renaissance gardens. Their fountains can only be described as kitsch (the Owl Fountain) designed to echo the owl’s hoots – and Fontana dell’Organo Idraulico, which imitated the organ’s burblings.

As much, if not more, imagination went into the construction of the Villa Adriana or Hadrian’s Villa (tel: (0774) 382 733 or (06) 3996 7900, information and bookings), which has been included on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites. Enough of the Canopus fountain (with its sturdy columns and statues overlooking a central pool) remains to evoke the peace of this domain and country retreat for Rome’s great military campaigner. It is thought that his favourite spot was the tiny island, cut off completely from the surrounding man-made pool (Teatro Marittimo) by an ingenious retractable bridge.

The standard opening hours for both Villa d’Este and Villa Adriana are 0900-1930 (ticket office closes one hour earlier) in summer, and an hour before dusk the rest of the year. Admission to each site costs ¬6.50.

Sport

Spectator sports claim infinitely more enthusiasm than participatory sports. Romans diligently follow their football clubs’ efforts in the Corriere dello Sport newspaper (website: www.corrieredellosport.it). Rome has two main football clubs, both in the Serie A (top division): the traditionally left-wing AS Roma (website: www.asromacalcio.it) and right-wing Lazio (website: www.sslazio.it). Both perform at the Stadio Olimpico (tel: (06) 36851 or (06) 323 7333), the 85,000-seat stadium that hosted the 1990 World Cup Final.

The sporting season kicks off in Rome with the Marathon (in March) and then provides a welcome opportunity to show off new hats and outfits at the Concorso Ippico Internazionale di Piazza di Siena – International Show Jumping (late April to early May). The Telecom Italia Tennis Masters Roma now attracts some of the biggest names on the circuit and is held in the first two weeks of May (website: www.masters-series.com).

Tickets to sporting events can be purchased directly from the venue box office or online through club websites or ticket agency websites such as www.listicket.it. Alternatively, Orbis ticket agency (see below) sells tickets to many Roman sporting events.

Golf: Golf is considered to be quite an upper-crust game in Rome. Most clubs will receive non-members on production of a membership card from their native country, showing their handicap. Fees are usually based on a day’s play. Country Club Castelgandolfo, Via di Santo Spirito 13 (tel: (06) 931 2301), is located just outside Rome, within a volcanic crater. Rates rise from ¬50 on weekdays to ¬60 at weekends.

Gyms and Squash: Setting foot in a Roman gym can be overwhelming if not equipped with the right gym wear (expensive) and body (tanned and toned). Those brave enough could try the Roman Sport Center, Villa Borghese, Via del Galoppatoio 33 (tel: (06) 320 1667). Rome’s largest health centre and open to non-members for ¬26 per day, it incorporates two gyms, squash courts, two Olympic-size swimming pools, aerobic courses, massage, sun beds and saunas.

Swimming: La Piscina delle Rose, Viale America 20 (tel: (06) 592 6717; website: www.piscinadellerose.it), is large, open-air and much in favour with the locals. A passport to a day of relaxation costs ¬15, while a morning or afternoon stay costs ¬12 (sun-lounges cost ¬4). The Cavalieri Hilton, Via Alberto Cadlolo 101, Monte Mario (tel: (06) 3509 2040; website: www.cavalieri-hilton.it), also allow non-residents to splash around in style in their outdoor and indoor pools but rates are much higher.

Tennis: Tennis club Circolo della Stampa, Piazza Mancini 9 (tel: (06) 323 2452), is owned by a group of journalists and welcomes non-members.

Shopping

Romans concur with Parisians that it is better to be chic than shocking. Consequently, Rome’s shops are full of (usually expensive and almost identical) fine clothes, leathers, shoes and bags. In winter, real fur is still de rigeur. The smart designer shops, where sales assistants are at their snootiest and price tags discreetly absent, are concentrated in the network of streets spanning out from the Spanish Steps. Of these, Via Condotti has most of the big names: Gucci, Max Mara, Valentino, Prada, Louis Vuitton, Salvatore Ferragamo, Bruno Magli, and Giorgio Armani. Bulgari, number 10, displays glitteringly expensive watches, while Damiani, number 84, stocks alarmingly costly jewellery, worn by Gwyneth Paltrow in recent publicity campaigns and partly designed by Brad Pitt. Nearby in Piazza di Spagna, Dolce & Gabbana, offers slightly more entertaining but equally expensive gear. Fendi has a cluster of boutiques along Via Borgognona, with a wide range of furs, shoes, bags and their ready-to-wear collection. Other big names here are Gianni Versace, Moschino, Tod’s, Gianfranco Ferré, and locally-born and bred ‘Queen of Cashmere’ Laura Biagiotti. In the same area, the TAD conceptstore, Via Babuino 155A, specialises in ‘ethnic-chic’, with departments ranging from furniture to flowers and clothing to music. There is also a hairdressers and a café. On neighbouring Via Frattina, number 23, the glorious Pineider stocks upmarket stationery and desk equipment.

Affordable buys are to be found in the high-street shops lining Via del Corso, Via del Tritone, Via Nazionale and Via Cola di Rienzo. Alternatively, bargains are snapped up in the January and July sales.

The antiques quarters lie along Via Margutta, Via del Babuino, Via Giulia, Via dei Banchi Vecchi and Via de’ Coronari (the pedestrian street organises fairs in May and October when its stores are open late). Bric-a-brac and retro clothes are on offer at the increasingly popular flea markets, the best being Via Sannio (Monday to Saturday, 0730-1300) and Porta Portese (Sunday 0730-1300).

Although there are supermarkets and shopping malls in Rome, including one of the oldest in Rome, the 100-shop Centro Commerciale Cinecittà Due, Viale Palmiro Togliatti 2 (metro stop Subaugusta or Cinecittà on Line A), the Roman shopping style is to visit the local fruit and vegetable markets (Monday to Saturday, 0700-1300) and to dip in and out of delicatessens.

Luxury goods to take home may include assorted vinegar, truffles and olive oil. Castroni, Via Cola di Rienzo 196, sells the culinary riches from Italy’s regions and comforting imports from around the world (including baked beans). The well-established Trimani, Via Goito 20, was founded in 1821 and stocks an excellent selection of Italian wines.

Smaller shops often close for lunch (1300-1630). Larger stores tend to stay open all day (0900/0930-1930). Opening times can be confusing, with many food shops closed on Thursday afternoon (in winter) and other shops not opening until the afternoon on Monday. Summer brings later opening hours (until 2000) but also Saturday afternoon closing and complete closure for at least a fortnight in July, August or September.

Value-added tax (IVA) is 20% on clothing and luxury goods. Foreign tourists from non-EU countries can claim a tax refund, provided they spend at least ¬155 at the same shop on the same day. Those who are eligible should ask the shop assistant for a receipt (with a description of the articles purchased) and a ‘tax-free cheque’. Upon departure from the EU (no later than 90 days after the date of purchase), these should be presented to customs. Global Refund (website: www.globalrefund.com) can provide more information.

Culture

Rome’s cultural life has stepped out of the shadows and into the limelight in recent years. High-profile international dance and theatre festivals, such as the RomaEuropa Festival (website: www.romaeuropa.net) held from late September to the end of November, Rome’s new state-of-the-art auditorium (see Music below), and massive city council spending on culture, have all helped to make this happen.

Rome’s only official arts centre, the Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, (tel: (06) 489 411 for tickets; website: www.palazzoesposizioni.it) which combines cinema with dance and exhibition spaces, is closed until mid-2005, but is set to be pretty impressive with its newly revamped interior and roof-garden terrace. However, major exhibitions have a spectacular venue in the Scuderie Papali del Quirinale, renovated by famous Italian architect Gae Aulenti and located opposite the Quirinal Palace (tel: (06) 3996 7500; website: www.scuderiequirinale.it). Past shows have included one on the major pieces of St Petersburg’s Hermitage, Sandro Botticelli, and one entitled The courts of the Baroque with works by Velazquez, Bernini and Luca Giordano. Contemporary art or photography shows are also programmed. From March-June 2005, the venue will host a show of masterpieces from the Guggenheim collection. And in a long line of major arts openings in past years, the city will soon have a Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI Secolo, or MAXXI (tel: (06) 320 2438; website: www.maxximuseo.org), a national centre for contemporary art and architecture. The former military barracks not far from Rome’s new auditorium are currently being transformed and expanded under a project by well-known Anglo-Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid, and will be completed in early 2006. Part of the state collection of contemporary art and architecture will be transferred here. Temporary exhibitions are already being hosted in an adjacent pavilion.

Those determined to sample something less conservative should seek out the Centri Sociali, non-profit, self-governing social centres set up by left-wing students during the 1970s, with support from the Italian Communist Party, which host the most radical concerts, films, theatre and dance events that Rome has to offer. Admission costs are at a minimum here, as are the prices for drinks at the bar. Centri Sociali attract an ‘alternative’ crowd aged 18-30 and vary from well-run places offering educational courses and Internet cafes to suburban squats (see Live Music in Nightlife for more information).

Tickets for cultural events are in demand, so it is important for culture-keen visitors to rush to the box office with cash (not credit card) in hand some days prior to the performance. Prices start at around ¬30. Ticket agencies may save hassle. Orbis, Piazza Esquilino 37 (tel: (06) 474 4776), provides tickets for concerts, theatre and sporting events. Hello Ticket (freephone: (800) 90 70 80 or (06) 4807 8400 if calling from abroad; website: www.helloticket.it) sells tickets by phone, online or at their main branch at Via Giolitti 34 (in the eastern wing of Termini train station).

The weekly Roma C’è (website: www.romace.it) and TrovaRoma and fortnightly Wanted in Rome (website: www.wantedinrome.com) publications provide information on cultural events.

Music: Rome’s new auditorium, Viale Pietro de Coubertin 30 (tel: (199) 109 783; website: www.auditoriumroma.com) by Genoese architect Renzo Piano was officially inaugurated in December 2002. A 10-minute tram-ride from Piazza del Popolo, or a 30-minute bus-ride on the ‘M’ bus from Termini station, the Auditorium or Parco della Musica (as it has been christened), features three halls of varying sizes and a large outdoor amphitheatre used for concerts and events. Everything from pop and jazz to dance and symphonic orchestras are hosted here, and the venue is the official home of Rome’s principal and most prestigious classical music academy, the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia (tel: (06) 808 2058; website: www.santacecilia.it). Rome’s Philharmonic, the Accademia Filarmonica (tel: (06) 320 1752; website: www.filarmonicaromana.org) performs regular operas and concerts at the Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Flaminio (tel: (06) 326 5991; website: www.teatroolimpico.it). Rossini and Verdi were once members of this academy (founded in 1821) that offers a varied programme of chamber music, opera and contemporary music. There are many other venues for classical music including the main auditorium of Rome’s La Sapienza University where the reputable Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti holds concerts (website: www.concertiiuc.it), churches and in the summer parks and archaeological sites, many of which are part of the Estate Romana series of events (see Cultural Events below). Some of the most atmospheric summer venues are the Baths of Caracalla, the Teatro di Marcello, the Fori Imperiali and the Terrazza del Pincio. Ask at one of the tourist information points for their monthly guide to cultural events called L’Evento, or read the local press for more information on music events in Rome.

The Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Via Beniamino Gigli 1 (tel: (06) 481 601; website: www.operaroma.it), dominates the opera scene. The season runs from November to May. The box office is open every day except Monday. In summer the theatre hosts operas, ballets and concerts in the Baths of Caracalla. Free concerts (choral, chamber and organ recitals) are held in churches (including Sant’Ignazio, Sant’Eustachio and San Luigi dei Francesi) year-round by the Associazione Internazionale Amici di Musica Sacra (website: www.amicimusicasacra.com).

Theatre: The theatre season runs from October to May. The city’s official troupe, the Teatro di Roma (tel: (06) 6880 4601; website: www.teatrodiroma.net), is based in two locations: at the prestigious Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52 (tel: (06) 6880 4601), which hosts lavish and often highbrow productions directed by renowned directors, and at the Teatro India, Lungotevere dei Papareschi (tel: (06) 5530 0894), a renovated former soap factory with three stages which puts on rather more experimental and multi-disciplinary offerings, also in summer. Musical comedies are performed at the fashionable Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129 (tel: (06) 420 0711; website: www.ilsistina.com). Two other venues managed by the ETI (Italian Theatre Board), the Teatro Valle, Via del Teatro Valle 23A (tel: (06) 6880 3794; website: www.teatrovalle.it), and the Teatro Quirino, Via Marco Minghetti 1 (tel: (06) 679 4585; website: www.teatroquirino.it), put on an interesting and varied programme, the first of contemporary work, the second of classics and Commedia dell’Arte. Also worth mentioning is the recently reopened Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8 (tel: (06) 5706 7761; website: www.teatro-palladium.it) which is attached to the Rome’s third university (known simply as ‘Roma 3’) and offers a very interesting range of readings, films, dance and theatre events. Fringe theatre is well represented at the Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Monteverde (tel: (06) 588 1021; website: www.teatrovascello.it).

Best of all are the open-air performances, held over summer in the lovely Giardino degli Aranci, Via di Santa Sabina, Aventino. Other venues are the Anfiteatro della Quercia del Tasso, Passeggiata del Gianicolo (tel: (06) 575 0827; website: www.anfiteatroquerciadeltasso.com), with stunning views over the city, and the Teatro Romano di Ostia Antica, the Roman amphitheatre in Ostia Antica. Information and booking numbers are advertised on posters.

Dance: The Rome Opera Ballet performs at the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Via Beniamino Gigli (tel: (06) 481 601; website: www.operaroma.it), where the regular diet of classical ballet is enriched with guest performances of internationally renowned dancers. The Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Flaminio (tel: (06) 326 5991; website: www.teatroolimpico.it), has a strong dance season, ranging from classical to contemporary. Tickets for dance productions at the Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52 (tel: (06) 6880 4601; website: www.teatrodiroma.net), are snapped up, so early booking is advised.

Film: Italy’s grand history in film has been centred in Rome since the Cinecittà (Cinema City), Via Tuscolana 1, was opened by Mussolini in 1937. Scenes from Anthony Minghella’s The English Patient (1996) and Jane Campion’s The Portrait of a Lady (1996) were filmed in these studios, but Italian cinema has failed to match the flowering of the 1940s, 50s and 60s. Among the greats are Rossellini’s Open City (1946) and Vittorio De Sica’s The Bicycle Thief (1948), painting a harsh but touching picture of post-war Rome. Equally popular but highly romanticised was Jean Negulesco’s Three Coins in the Fountain (1954), focusing on the quest for love and the Trevi Fountain, and Audrey Hepburn’s Oscar-winning performance as a besotted princess in Roman Holiday (1953). However, it is Fellini’s films Roma (1972) and La Dolce Vita (1959) that have indelibly stamped images of Rome on the movie-goer’s mind. More recently Rome’s version of Woody Allen, Nanni Moretti, enjoyed considerable success at home and abroad with films called Caro Diario (1993), which showed a beautiful and virtually empty Rome in August, and La Stanza del Figlio (2001), the dramatic tale of a family that loses a son. Some younger film-makers, such as Gabriele Muccino and Turkish born Ferzan Ozpetek, have used the city of Rome to great effect as a backdrop in films such as L’Ultimo Bacio (2001) by the former and Le Fate Ignoranti (2001) by the latter, both of which featured the up-and-coming Italian actor Stefano Accorsi.

Rome is blessed with about 80 cinemas, though in recent years many older and smaller venues have closed to make way for larger multi-screen cinemas in the suburbs or outside Rome. Tickets cost about ¬7 (prices are often reduced for matinee performances and on Monday evenings). The three-screen Pasquino, Piazza Sant’Egidio 10, Trastevere (tel: (06) 581 5208), shows English-language films daily. Metropolitan, Via del Corso 7 (tel: (06) 3260 0500), and Warner Village Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44 (tel: (06) 4777 9111), dedicate one of their screens to English-language films. Films are also shown in their original language on Monday evening at Alcazar, Via Merry del Val 14 (tel: (06) 588 0099), while Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16G (tel: (06) 686 1068), shows original-language films regularly. There are numerous open-air showings in the summer, including Cineporto, Viale Antonino di San Giuliano (Ponte Milvio) (tel: (06) 321 1511; website: www.cineporto.com), close to the Olympic Stadium, and Notti di Cinema a Piazza Vittorio (tel: (06) 445 1208; website: www.agisanec.lazio.it), which shows films daily in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II in the months of July and August. Weekly showings and details of film festivals are set out in the weekly publication, Roma C’è (website: www.romace.it) or in the daily press.

Cultural Events: Each summer, from June to September, Estate Romana offers a lively schedule of outdoor cultural events around the city, from rock, ethnic and jazz concerts, through theatre performances and outdoor cinema, to dance lessons and other cultural events hosted outdoors in various Roman piazze, archaeological sites, monument grounds and parks all over town. Detailed programmes are available on the Rome city council website (www.comune.roma.it) or in special monthly editions of Roma C’è (website: www.romace.it) available at newsagents. As home to the Vatican, religious celebrations are important in Rome. The Pope makes an annual appearance at the Colosseum on Good Friday evening and delivers Midnight Mass at St Peter’s on Christmas Eve.

Literary Notes: There is nothing like Ovid’s Ars Amatoria (Art of Love – circa 16-25BC) for bringing Rome to life, with its vivid depiction of a trip to the Colosseum, the site of flirtation and grandiose spectacle. Those interested in political intrigue may turn to I Claudius and Claudius the God (1934), Robert Graves’ portrayal of ancient Rome, or the more measured tones of Gibbon’s History and Decline of the Roman Empire (1782). The dramatic poetry of Virgil’s Aeneid (19BC), evokes the glory of the Roman Empire, blessed and cursed by the Gods. The Romantics had a soft spot for Rome; indeed Rome is the place where Keats breathed his last and the Keats-Shelley Memorial House is situated here (see Key Attractions). The tragic tale of Beatrice Cenci, beheaded in 1599 outside Castel Sant’Angelo for plotting to kill the father who had raped her, inspired Shelley’s play The Cenci (1886).

A very good book about Ancient Rome is Marguerite Yourcenar’s Memoirs of Hadrian (1951), a ‘ghost’ autobiography of Emperor Hadrian’s life that evokes daily life as well as more philosophical aspects of life in Rome back then. Also written in the 1950s, The Talented Mr Ripley, by Patricia Highsmith (1955) is set mostly in Rome.

More recently, bestselling author Dan Brown’s Angels and Demons (2003), the prequel to the acclaimed Da Vinci Code (2004) is set entirely in Rome and is crammed with Vatican intrigue and hi-tech drama.

Nightlife

Rome may not be the hippest of capitals, but for those who know the right places, it is possible to party all night. Romans go out late and the fun only really commences after dinner. The wine-bars and cafés lying between Campo de’ Fiori, Piazza Navona and Via della Pace are the places to be seen. Irish pubs are also popular with Italians and expatriates, and can be a good place for a fun and informal night out. The biggest concentration of nightclubs lie in the Testaccio and Ostiense districts. One of the main drags in Testaccio, Via di Monte Testaccio, is literally lined with bars, pubs, live music venues and clubs. In Ostiense the scene has taken off in recent years and this is where to find some of the hippest new bars and so-called ristodisco, places where you can both eat and dance. The gay scene is alive and kicking and accounts for many of the more avant-garde night spots. The weekly Roma C’è (out on Wednesdays) and TrovaRoma (out on Thursday free with the La Repubblica newspaper) publications, the fortnightly Wanted in Rome magazine (whose website www.wantedinrome.com is updated on a regular basis), and the monthly 2night booklet (available free in many bars or online at www.2night.it) have good and reliable information on nightlife in Rome.

The legal drinking age in Italy is 16 and the absence of licensing laws means that drinking is possible at all hours. Most wine-bars and birrerie stay open until 2400 in winter and 0200 in summer. However, in general, people are more interested in seeing and being seen – alcohol is almost an afterthought. Drink prices vary considerably – a glass of wine at a city centre wine-bar can cost anything from ¬2-7 (depending on the quality and whether you are standing up or sitting at a table), while a cocktail in a nightclub could be ¬12. Half a litre of draught beer usually costs around ¬5. Drinks and coffees are always cheaper when consumed standing at the bar!

Romans tend to dress more casually than their counterparts in Milan and Florence, although most women do their best to look stunning for a night out.

Bars: The Vineria, right in the middle of Campo de’ Fiori, is still very ‘in’ and makes a perfect rendez vous for an early evening drink. Customers range from well-known actors to local winos, although lately the atmosphere has become a little more wannabe. Otherwise, Il Nolano at number 11 is as good for people-watching and always less packed. Just a few doors down at number 20 is the Drunken Ship, good for those in search of English-speaking ex-pats and tourists. Equally popular but rather more refined is Antico Caffè della Pace, Via della Pace 5, close to Piazza Navona. The cosy interior is adorned with antiques, while the ivy-clad façade looks onto a notoriously popular summer terrace. For a romantic pre-dinner aperitif, take a table at Caffè di Marzio, Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere 15, and enjoy a glass of wine overlooking this delightful piazza in the heart of Trastevere.

Casinos: Gambling is banned throughout Italy (with the exceptions of Venice, San Remo and Aosta).

Clubs: House music remains a firm favourite here, although a number of smaller and more alternative clubs play rock and revival. In summer, many clubs close, giving way to the countless unofficial outdoor venues that spring up around town and beside the sea near Ostia. The rich and famous hang out at Gilda, Via Mario dei Fiori 97 (website: www.gildabar.it), close to Piazza di Spagna. Disco music dominates the dancefloor, there’s a piano bar reserved for private parties and a well-run restaurant. In summer the establishment moves out to Fregene, on the coast, for Gilda on the Beach, Via Lungomare di Ponente 11 (website: www.gildaonthebeach.it). Alien, Via Velletri 13-19 (website: www.aliendisco.it), is brash and bold, with sexy dancers paid to gyrate to house, commercial and revival. In Testaccio, Alibi, Via Monte Testaccio 39, is frequented by ‘gays and their friends’ and plays predominantly house music with occasional live concerts. Close by, Zoobar, Via Monte Testaccio 22, plays house, rock and new wave to a mixed and cheerful crowd. Some of Europe’s best DJs play at Goa, Via Libetta 13, close to Mercati Generali in the post-industrial landscape of the up-and-coming Ostiense area. House, jungle and techno music predominate amid a sophistacted ethnic and industrial setting of wood combined with wrought iron. At no. 13 of Via Libetta another staunch Ostiense favourite is Classico Village (website: www.classico.it) which offers two dancefloors and a restaurant in a former factory, as well as some very good Italian pop, rock and jazz concerts.

Consult weekly publication Roma C’è (website: www.romace.it) for details of what’s on that night.

Live Music: Jazz lovers should head for Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, near the Vatican (website: www.alexanderplatz.it) because when the big names come to town, they often come here. Big Mama, Vicolo di San Francesco a Ripa 18 (website: www.bigmama.it), is notoriously cramped but pulls some good up-and-coming musicians, plus a few big names. Likewise, Fonclea, Via Crescenzio 82A (website: www.fonclea.it), in the Prati area (close to the Vatican), stages jazz and rhythm and blues concerts. There’s a late-night restaurant and the bar serves excellent cocktails and a wide selection of whiskeys. For more new or rarefied jazz sounds and ethnic music, try the La Palma, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35 (near the Tiburtina metro stop) (website: www.lapalmaclub.it). Nearby in Testacccio, Caruso-Cafè de Oriente, Via Monte Testaccio 36, hosts performances from local and visiting Caribbean, Cuban and Brazilian musicians, while Villaggio Globale, Spazio Boario, ex Mattatoio Lungotevere Testaccio 22/Via di Monte Testaccio 22 (it has two entrances) (tel: (06) 575 7233), offers a nice line in alternative and world music.

For something totally different, visit the Centri Sociali (see Culture). One that is well known as a live music hotspot is Brancaleone, Via Levanna 11 (website: www.brancaleone.it), where a decisively alternative and dressed-down crowd attends concerts, films, art exhibitions and club nights. Likewise, Circolo degli Artisti, Via Casilina Vecchia 42, offers an eclectic mix of rap, reggae, cyber punk and grunge.

City Statistics

Location: Lazio region, western central Italy.
Country dialling code: 39.
Population: 2,810,931 (city in 2003).
Ethnic Mix: Majority Italian, about 9.5% legally registered foreign minority includes Romanian (one fifth of all immigrants in Rome), Philippino, Albanian, Polish, North American, Spanish, Sri Lankan and Indian.
Religion: Roman Catholic majority; Russian and Greek Orthodox, Jewish and Muslim minorities.
Time zone: GMT +1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin or three-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 8°C (46°F).
Average July temp: 28°C (82°F).
Annual rainfall: 760mm (30 inches).

Special Events

Epifania – La Befana (Epiphany), day of present-giving to Roman children, 6 Jan, throughout the city
Carnevale, children dress up and a few nightclubs put on special parties, week before Lent, various venues
Festa di Primavera (Spring Festival), late Mar-early Apr, Spanish Steps
Giornata FAI di Primavera, on the first weekend in spring the Fondo per l’Ambiene Italiano (the Italian equivalent of the National Trust) organizes free guided tours of countless churches, monuments and sites of historical, archaeological, or environmental interest all over Italy that are usually closed to the public. Check www.fondoambiente.it for up-to-date information.
Settimana Santa & Pasqua (Holy Week and Easter), late-Mar, Mass in St Peter’s Square on Sat before Palm Sunday, services throughout Rome’s churches in Holy Week, and the Pope’s evening mass on Good Friday at the Colosseum
Good Friday, Pope makes an appearance, 29 April, Colosseum
Natale di Roma (Rome’s Birthday), 21 April, fireworks on the Aventine Hill
Festa della Liberazione, sombre festivities celebrate the Allies’ liberation of Italy in World War II, 25 April, Mausoleum of the Ardeatine Caves and Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Piazza Venezia
Festa del Lavoro (Labour Day), free rock concert, 1 May, outside basilica of San Giovanni
Mostra dell’Antiquariato, antique fairs, mid-end May, Via dei Coronari, near Piazza Navona
Fiera d’Arte di Via Margutta, four-day art fair, late May, Via Margutta
Estate Romana (Roman Summer), music, dance, literature and film events, Jun-Sep, Rome’s parks, archaeological sites, villas and courtyards
Festa di San Giovanni, Pope leads the way to the basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano, 23 Jun, Laterano
San Pietro e San Paolo, public holiday in honour of Rome’s two patron saints, 29 Jun, church service at Basilica of San Paulo Fouri le Mura
Roma Alta Moda, haute couture collections, mid-July, Piazza di Spagna and smart hotels
Festa di Noantri, markets and fireworks in honour of Madonna del Carmine, two weeks mid-July, Trastevere
Notte Bianca, free events, museum-openings and concerts right through the night, usually held on the third Saturday in September, throughout the city website: www.lanottebianca.it)
Mostra dell’Antiquariato, antique fairs, mid-end October, Via dei Coronari, near Piazza Navona
Fiera d’Arte di Via Margutta, four-day art fair, late Oct, Via Margutta
Mercato di Piazza Navona, market stalls selling food and craft items in Piazza Navona, mid-Dec-6 Jan
Immacolata Concezione (Immaculate Conception), Mass by the Pope, 8 Dec, Santa Maria Maggiore
Midnight Mass, Pope delivers mass, 24 December, St Peter’s Basilica
Messa di Natale (Christmas Mass) and ‘Urbi et Orbi’ Blessing, 25 Dec, St Peter’s Basilica
Veglia di Preghiera (Prayer Vigil), for the passage to the new year, 31 December, St Peter’s Basilica
San Silvestro/Capo d’Anno (New Year’s Eve), 31 December, festivities throughout the city

Cost of Living

One-and-a-half-litre bottle of mineral water: ¬0.55 (at least ¬2 in a bar)
66cl bottle of beer: ¬1
Financial Times newspaper: ¬2.50
36-exposure colour film: ¬4.50
City-centre bus ticket: ¬1.00
Adult football ticket: ¬20-¬40 (depending on location)
Three-course meal with wine/beer: From ¬35

1 Euro (¬1) = £0.68; US$1.19; C$1.39; A$1.56
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005