Mini Guide of Seoul
City Overview
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In South Korea’s intoxicating capital, the old and new intertwine. On the surface, Seoul is a thoroughly modern city dissected by the River Han and cluttered with towering skyscrapers and glitzy shopping malls. It is a city driven by the world of commerce, where the pace of life is always frenetic and the streets seem permanently choked with traffic. However, on closer inspection visitors discover ornate palaces, tranquil Buddhist temples and beautiful gardens. It is not just the city’s architecture that is varied, with fast-food chains and international restaurants co-existing alongside traditional Korean establishments serving the fiery and pungent hot kimichi. Street hawkers, selling everything from tasty ddukbokki (rice cakes with red pepper paste) to tailored suits and traditional dress, are also an inherent part of the city’s fabric, as are its charming tea houses and coffee shops. Seoul’s cultural life is equally diverse, and offers everything from world-class performance art to galleries and museums showcasing fine art and traditional works, covering many facets of life in South Korea. It is not unusual to stumble across traditional music or dance performances, yet karaoke bars are every bit as much part of the fabric of 21st-century Seoul.
Getting There By Air
Incheon International Airport (ICN) Tel: (032) 741 0104. Website: www.airport.or.kr
Incheon International Airport is located 52km (32 miles) west of Seoul.
Airport facilities include shops, bars, restaurants, banking, post office, currency exchange, left-luggage, car hire, duty-free shops and lounges. Diners Club International Business Centre (tel: (032) 743 6100), Sky Paradise Business Centre (tel: (032) 743 3660/7100) and Air Garden Transit Hotel (tel: (032) 743 3000; website: www.airgardenhotel.com) offer conference rooms and business services.
Seoul Bus (tel: (02) 5571 3435), Airport Limousine (tel: (02) 2664 9898) and KAL (tel: (02) 2667 0386) run buses to the city centre. Taxis, deluxe taxis and mini-vans are also available.
Gimpo Airport (GMP) Tel: (02) 2660 4910/20. Website: www.gimpo.airport.co.kr
Gimpo Airport is located 18km (11 miles) from Seoul and serves domestic routes.
Airport facilities include tourist information, shops, bars, restaurants, Internet café and car hire. There are no business facilities at Gimpo Airport.
City Air Terminal (tel: (02) 551 0753) and Airport Limousine (tel: (02) 2664 9898) buses run to the centre, subway line 5 stops at the airport and taxis are also available.
Getting There By Water
International ferries and hydrofoils from Japan and China serve the South Korean ports of Busan and Incheon. Service providers include Bugwan Ferry (tel: (02) 738 0055), Korea Ferry (tel: (02) 775 2323), Korea Marine Express (tel: (02) 730 8666), Weidong Ferry (tel: (02) 3271 6753), Jincheon Ferry (tel: (02) 517 8671), Dae-in Ferry (tel: (02) 318 1811) and Dandong Ferry (tel: (02) 713 5522).
Getting There By Road
It is not possible to enter South Korea by road, but those with a valid Korean driving licence or an International Driving Permit can travel freely within the country. Most road signs are written in Korean and English, which makes navigating the complex national road network easier, however traffic in urban areas is dense and the erratic behaviour of other drivers can be unnerving. Driving under the influence of alcohol is a serious offence. Criminal charges can arise from accidents and a car driver involved in an incident with a motorcycle or a pedestrian is considered to be at fault. South Korea’s expressways are numbered, with route 1, or the Gyeongbu Expressway, running northwest to southeast and connecting Seoul to Busan. Routes 130, 120 and 110 from Incheon in the west, route 50 from Gangneung in the east and route 15 from Muan in the south also serve Seoul. The capital has a ring road, which is expressway number 100. Express buses provide a safer alternative to driving. The main terminals for these services are Seoul Express Bus Terminal (tel: (02) 535 4151) and Dong Seoul Express Bus Terminal (tel: (02) 446 8000).
Getting There By Rail
South Korea’s efficient internal rail network links the capital to towns and cities throughout the country and extends as far as Sintan-ri in the north, Pohang in the east, Yeosu in the south and Daecheon in the west. Services are operated by the Korean National Railroad (KORAIL) (tel: 1544 7788; website: www.korail.go.kr). The centrally located Seoul Station (tel: 1544 7788; website: www.seoulst.go.kr) and Cheongnyangni Station (tel: 1544 7788; website: www.cnnst.go.kr) in the east of the city are the capital’s main stations.
Getting Around
Public Transport Seoul Metropolitan Subway Corporation (SMSC) (tel: (02) 520 5000 or 1577 1234; website: www.subwayworld.co.kr), Seoul Metropolitan Rapid Transit Corporation (SMRT) (tel: (02) 6211 2200; website: www.smrt.co.kr) and the Korean National Railroad (KNR) (tel: 1544 7788; website: www.korail.go.kr) operate Seoul’s subway. July 2004 saw the inauguration of Seoul’s new bus routes. Yellow buses serve the city centre, green buses operate on local routes, blue buses serve suburban routes and red buses connect downtown Seoul to the metropolitan area.
Taxis Taxis can be caught at stands or hailed on the street. Red lamps on the roof indicate that a taxi is available for hire. Most taxi drivers don’t speak English. Premiums are charged for hire between 2400 and 0400, and for Deluxe Taxis (tel: (02) 3431 5100), which are black and have ‘Deluxe Taxi’ written on their sides. Mini-van taxis (tel: (02) 992 7000) and visitors guide taxis are also available. The latter have drivers who speak English and Japanese and are available at the airport, hotels and major tourist attractions.
Car Hire Over 21s who have held a driving licence for at least a year can hire cars. Foreigners also need to present their passport and International Driving Licence. Major providers include: Avis (tel: 1544 1600; website: www.avis.co.kr), Car For You (tel: (02) 588 6333 or 1588 1006; website: www.carforyou.co.kr), Kumho (tel: (02) 797 8000 or 1588 1230; website: www.kumhorent.com) and Rits (tel: 1588 7746; website: www.ritscar.com)
Bicycle Hire Travelling around the city centre by bicycle is not recommended, however a cycle path runs 37km (23 miles) along the river between the metropolitan areas from Yanghwa and Gwangnaru. Bikes can be hired at various points along the route. For more information, check www.visitseoul.net.
Business
Business Etiquette
Business meetings conducted in South Korea are formal affairs; therefore it is essential to wear appropriate attire such as a suit and tie. The exchange of business cards is also expected: when giving or receiving these, visitors should remember to use their right hand. Common courtesy dictates that appointments be made for meetings and that these start on time. Most of the country’s highly educated business people speak English and are happy to conduct meetings in this language. Business hours usually are 0900-1800 Monday-Friday and 0900-1300 on Saturdays.
Sightseeing
Sightseeing Overview
Seoul has a seemingly endless array of sights, from gleaming skyscrapers to graceful palaces. The ancient traditions and the rich folklore that once pervaded the city can be uncovered in its bustling markets, the Namsangol Hanok Village (an open-air museum with restored houses) and a swathe of museums that dot the city offering everything from fine art and traditional music to the history of cosmetic production. The most engaging museums include the Seoul Museum of History and the National Museum of Korea, where more than five centuries of history unfolds. The city’s modern face can be explored at the Olympic Park and the World Cup Stadium, both lasting testaments to two of the world’s greatest sporting events. Sports enthusiasts can also indulge themselves in the Han-gang Riverside Parks. These 10 leisure parks offer everything from water-skiing and windsurfing to cycling and tennis, as well as more leisurely paced river cruises. The observation deck of the Seoul Tower takes the strain out of sightseeing, while the Jogyesa Temple and Bukhansan National Park are tranquil and attractive escapes.
Tourist Information
Korea National Tourism Organization (KNTO) Seoul Help Centre For Foreigners Euljiro 1, Jung-gu Tel: (02) 731 6800. Website: www.seoul.go.kr
The information centre provides tourist information and can give advice about living in or doing business in the city. There are also tourist information points at the airport, Seoul Station, Dongdaemun Market, Namdaemun Market and the Deoksugung Palace.
Korea National Tourism Organization (KNTO) 40 Cheongyecheonno, Jung-gu Tel: (02) 1330 or (02) 729 9497. Website: http://english.tour2korea.com or www.knto.or.kr/eng/
The prepaid Korea Pass Card can be used in selected stores and restaurants, in deluxe taxis and to purchase travel tickets; it also provides discounted travel on public transport.
Key Attractions
Gyeongbokgung Palace This late 14th-century palace was at the heart of the Joseon Dynasty for over 500 years. Today it is one of the country’s most striking examples of the architecture during this period, impressing with its intricate roof tiles and grand staircase.
1 Sejong-no Tel: (02) 732 1932. Website: http://gyeongbok.ocp.go.kr (Korean only)
National Museum of Korea South Korea’s biggest museum is home to more than 130,000 artefacts that chart the country’s artistic development over 5,000 years. Highlights include Buddhist statues and Joseon era paintings. Temporarily closed, the museum it set to reopen in a slick modern facility by the end of 2005.
168-6 Yongsan-dong Tel: (02) 2077 9000. Website: www.museum.go.kr
Jogyesa Temple Constructed in 1910 the temple is at the centre of the Buddhist faith in Seoul. It is worth visiting to see the Daewongjun Hall or Main Buddha Hall (a traditional wooden temple adorned with colourful artwork and the scenes of Buddha’s life) alone. A major reconstruction program began in 2003.
45 Kyunji-dong Tel: (02) 732 5292. Website: http://international.jogyesa.or.kr
Seoul Tower Standing 370m (1,214ft) above sea level and revolving 360º, the tower has been wowing visitors with dramatic views over downtown Korea and the surrounding landscape for 30 years. Closed for renovations until December 2005.
San 1-3, 2nd Street Yongsan-dong Tel: (02) 772 1622. Website: www.seoultower.co.kr
Changdeokgung Palace and Huwon Many of the former Joseon rulers made Changdeokgung Palace their home. Visiting the beautifully landscaped Huwon gardens, complete with its pond and ornate pavilion, it is easy to see why.
2-71 Waryong-dong Tel: (02) 762 8262. Website: www.cdg.go.kr
Further Distractions
Lotte World This family amusement park combines white-knuckle roller coaster rides, like the French Revolution and the ominously named Bungee Drop, with more sedate attractions and a much acclaimed Folk Museum, which allows guests to explore the history and culture of South Korea.
40-1 Jamsil-dong, Songpa-gu Tel: (02) 411 2000. Website: www.lotteworld.com
Seoul World Cup Stadium Relive the 2002 football World Cup through photograph exhibitions, video highlights and a tour of the capital’s high tech stadium. Today the arena has been converted into a modern shopping mall, which also houses a cinema, sports centre and restaurants.
Tel: (02) 2128 2002. Website: www.seoulworldcupst.or.kr
Tours of the City
The Seoul City Tour Bus (tel: (02) 777 6090; website: www.seoulcitytourbus.com) operates along four main routes giving visitors the opportunity to familiarise themselves with downtown, the city’s palaces, the World Cup Stadium and Seoul at night. Tours are hop on and hop off with buses running every 30 minutes. Enjoy an alternative perspective of Seoul from the meandering Han river from one of six ferries that ply its waters. Tours last 1-1.5 hours and take in some of the city’s landmark sights including the Seoul World Cup Fountain and the distant Seoul Tower. Cruises depart from the Chamsil, Yoido, Nanji, and Yanghwa piers. Contact the Semo Pleasure Boat Company (tel: (02) 785 4411) for more information.
Excursions
Located in the northern part of Seoul, the hulking granite rocks of the Bukhansan National Park, whose name translates as ‘big mountain’, provide a tranquil escape for the city’s citizens who flock here to admire the striking views, explore the mountain paths and visit the Bukhansan Seong Fortress and the Sangunsa, Seungasa and Munsusa temples. The Park Office (tel: (02) 909 0497; website: www.npa.or.kr) can provide further information.
Northwest of Seoul Ganghwado Island (website: www.ganghwa.incheon.kr) is home to 127 dolmens (giant prehistoric tombs) whose cultural and historical significance earned them a place on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2000. A handful of traditional temples are amongst the island’s other attractions.
Sport
Shopping
Seoul is a city with diverse shopping opportunities, with western style malls and departments stores standing alongside specialist arcades - check out the Silk Arcade in Gwancheoldong and the Jewellery Arcade in Jongno. The colossal Coex Mall, below the World Trade Centre, boasts an aquarium, cinema, games arcade and restaurants to help ease the strains of a hard day of shopping. The World Cup Mall, Seoul World Cup Stadium, has metamorphosed the country’s landmark football stadium into a shopping centre with over 100 clothing stores. The fashion conscious should head for Munjeongdong Fashion Street where international brands like DKNY and Nike can be snapped up for a fraction of the usual retail price. Similarly Mok-dong Street and the Guro Fashion Valley are lined with clothing outlets. Dongdaemun Market, a collection of shopping malls, smaller stores and market stalls with over 27,000 shops, is another great place to buy clothes. Korea House, 112-2 Samseong-dong, is a great place to pick up traditional crafts and souvenirs. The majority of outlets open daily from 0900 or 1000 until 2200.
Culture
Seoul has a rich cultural life with dozens of theatres, arts centres and cinemas. The National Theatre (tel: (02) 2280 4114; website: www.ntok.go.kr) is a platform for Korean dance, drama and music, while the Chongdong Theatre (tel: (02) 751 1500; website: www.chongdong.com) presents traditional Korean performing arts including sword and drum dances. At the Sejong Center for the Performing Arts (tel: (02) 399 1111; website: www.sejongpac.or.kr), productions can be simultaneously translated into six languages, and the Seoul Arts Centre (tel: (02) 580 1300; website: www.sac.or.kr) is home to the city’s Opera House and Music Hall. Korea House (tel: (02) 2266 9101; website: www.koreahouse.or.kr) is unashamedly geared towards foreign visitors with traditional Korean performances and cuisine. Multiplex cinemas are located throughout the city, with the Megabox Cineplex in Gangnam (tel: (02) 6002 1200) boasting 17 screens.
For information on forthcoming events contact the KNTO (website: http://english.tour2korea.com or www.knto.or.kr/eng) or the venue box office.
Nightlife
Bars, clubs and karaoke rooms (noraebang) keep revellers happy until the small hours of the morning. Itaewon and around Hongik University are both lively nightlife areas. Bars open at 1800 or 1900 and close at 0100 or 0200, while nightclubs close at 0300 or 0400. Geckos, 128-5 Itaewon-dong, is a large bar geared towards westerners. Bless U, near exit 1 at Itaewon Station, is a gastro-pub catering to the ex-pat crowd and ZZYZX, Cheongdam-dong (near Hankook Chinaware Outlet), is a stylish cocktail lounge. Interface, Itaewon Hotel, 737-32 Hanam-dong, is a chic club with a spacious chill out area. Joker Red, 407-4 Seo-Kyo Dong, outside the main gates of Hongik University, pumps out dance music and Nyx & Nox, Ritz Carlton Hotel, 602 Yeoksam-dong, is a fun disco bar with private karaoke rooms. There are a handful of jazz clubs around Hongik University: Behop is located near the subway station while Club Evans is near the university’s main gate.
City Statistics
Location: northwest South Korea in the centre of the Korean Peninsula. Country dialing code: + 82. Time zone: GMT + 9. Electricity: 110 and 220 volts; 60Hz; two-pin plugs (flat and round). Average January temp: - 2°C (28°F). Average July temp: 25°C (77°F). Annual rainfall: 1,210mm (48 inches).
Special Events
Lotus Lantern Festival, Sunday prior to Buddha’s birthday on the 8th of the month, Apr, Jongo Street is illuminated by a lantern procession Insadong Festival, late Apr-May, this nine-day event brings traditional crafts and colourful parades to Insadong Hi Seoul Festival, May, this five-day festival sees public plazas, palaces and theatres come alive with parades, theatrical performances, light shows and traditional tea ceremonies Tropical Nights Festival, Aug, the first week of the month brings outdoor performances from the National Theatre to the Cultural Plaza Seoul Drum Festival, Oct, three-day spectacle with domestic and international performers
Cost of Living
1000 South Korea Won (1,000 KRW) = £0.55; US$0.96; C$1.11; A$1.26; ¬0.80 Currency conversion rates as of October 2005
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