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City Guide > South-East Asia > Singapore > Singapore | |
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Mini Guide of Singapore City Overview
Singapore, the diamond-shaped island off the southern tip of Malaysia, is an unlikely success story. Once a simple fishing village, it was founded in 1819 by Sir Stamford Raffles, an official of the British East India Company, who decided it was the perfect location as a trading station. Since then it has become one of the world’s most prosperous cities, known as the Lion City. Singapore City is by far the largest and most significant island alongside 63 others that make up Singapore state. Here, especially at the mouth of the Singapore River, Asian tradition meets modern technology – gleaming skyscrapers tower over traditional architecture, while squat Chinese and Hindu temples stud the city. A curious blend of ancient and modern, the city is home to an ethnic mix of Chinese, Malaysians and Indians, as well as ex-pats from all over the world, in a predominantly English-speaking society. These different races live harmoniously thanks to religious tolerance, increased prosperity, stringent no-nonsense laws and a constant balmy equatorial heat. Since the island became an independent Republic in 1965, it has enjoyed a vigorous and successful free trade policy, as introduced by its then Prime Minister (now Minister Mentor) Lee Kuan Yew. This has led to an unprecedented rise in the standard of living (most city dwellers own their own homes) and exponential economic growth, due mainly to the export industry. Its healthy economy was dented between 2001 and 2003 during the global recession and slump in the technology sector, and it suffered a heavy loss in tourist numbers after the terrorist attacks of September 11. There was a further drop in the number of visitors to the region during the SARS outbreak at the end of 2003. A subsequent recovery, however, has seen unemployment fall from 6% in 2002 to 3.4% in 2004. Its world-beating Changi Airport represents Singapore’s impressive efficiency, cleanliness and technology at its best, although hiding behind that façade is the more sinister means of achieving these qualities. Such cleanliness and safety in the city has been achieved and maintained at the expense of personal freedom, with those breaking the law facing canings, corrective work orders and harsh financial penalties. There are infamous on-the-spot fines for jay-walking or dropping a cigarette, while more serious crimes, such as drug trafficking, are punished by the death penalty. Yet the financial and business districts of are home to a steady stream of well-heeled ex-pats who enjoy a good quality of life. In Singapore, oiling the wheels of success and becoming the best (an economic miracle to show the rest of the world the way) seems paramount. It is frequently voted Asia’s top business destination, and is regarded as one of the finest venues for international conferences, conventions and exhibitions (the IMF World Bank Annual Meeting is due here in 2006), with a fast-growing market for incentive travel. All of this business thrives amid a constant flow of festivals and events in the ethnic quarters of Chinatown, Little India and Geylang Serai, which mark the many religious and cultural occasions throughout the calendar. Singaporeans still rely on feng shui consultants, astrologers and fortune-tellers for advice when moving home, getting married or changing jobs. The budding arts community provides a series of annual showcases, however these tend to be more like respectable creations of the Tourism Board than wild establishment-rocking events. Although Raffles Hotel and a rank of good museums furnish insights into the past, modern consumer culture is the most prolific. The Great Singapore Sale dominates the early summer in the city centre, and most visitors to Singapore will indulge in its competitive prices and great selection, especially in electronics equipment. And everybody comes to eat, with food outlets at every step, from traditional hawker centres to modern food courts, Asian specialities to international haute cuisine – reflecting the diversity of ethnic communities that Singapore has long been home to. Getting There By Air Singapore Changi Airport (SIN) Tel: 6541 2222 or (1 800) 542 4422 (flight information). Fax: 6542 1231. Website: www.changiairport.com.sg Changi is located 20km (12.4 miles) from Singapore centre. It consistently tops international polls as the world’s best airport and is currently the 24th busiest. More than 24 million passengers passed through in 2003. A total of 73 scheduled airlines operate out of Changi, with 3544 scheduled flights weekly to 167 cities in 53 countries worldwide, making it the airport with the most air links in the Asia Pacific region. To cater for growth in demand, Terminal 2 was completed in 2000 and Terminal 3 is due for completion in 2006. Major airlines: Singapore Airlines (tel: 6223 8888; fax: 6786 6947 (call centre and reservations) or tel: 6243 2546; fax: 6543 0979 (check-in); e-mail: singapore_ticketing@singaporeair.com.sg; website: www.singaporeair.com.sg) is the national airline, with direct connections to all the major cities in Asia and 90 destinations in almost 40 countries. Its subsidiary SilkAir covers 25 destinations, mostly resorts in South-East Asia, plus Trivandrum and Kochi in India. Other major airlines include Air Canada, Air China, Air France, Air India, Air Mauritius, Air New Zealand, All Nippon, American Airlines, Biman Bangladesh, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, China Airlines, Continental Airlines, Delta Airlines, Emirates, Garuda, Gulf Air, Indian Airlines, Japan Airlines, KLM, Korean Air, Lufthansa, Malaysia Airlines, Philippine Airlines, Qantas Airways, Scandinavian Airlines, Sri Lankan Airlines, Swiss International Airlines, Thai Airways, Turkish Airlines, United Airlines and Virgin Atlantic Airlines. Passengers may check in between 48 and four hours before their flight, at the Singapore Airlines office in the Paragon Shopping Centre, Orchard Road. They may also check in by telephone (tel: 6243 2546) to get a confirmed allocated seat number. In these cases, passengers must still bring their luggage to the airport at least one hour before flying. Approximate flight times to Singapore: From London is 13 hours; from New York is 20 hours 35 minutes; from Los Angeles is 18 hours (now a non-stop flight, making aviation history); from Toronto is 20 hours and from Sydney is 8 hours. Airport facilities: While Changi’s legendary efficiency means travellers need spend the minimum amount of time in the airport, the facilities on offer mean that days could happily be spent there. These include showers, gym and sauna, fitness centres, putting green, rooftop pool (a must) and Jacuzzi, hairdressing salons, laundry service, karaoke lounge, mini supermarket, movie theatre, TV lounges, children’s play area, nursery, smoking room, medical centre and prayer room. To get back to nature there are even cactus, bamboo, sunflower and orchid gardens, and a Koi pond. There are the usual banks, bureaux de change, ATMs, postal and telecommunications offices, shops, restaurants, car hire (Avis and Hertz), hotel reservation counters, tourist information, wheelchair rental services and baggage storage facilities. Transit and transfer passengers can also take advantage of free two-hour guided coach tours of Singapore, leaving at 1000, 1300, 1500, 1600 and 1700. Business facilities: The comprehensive range of services includes transit hotels and business-class lounges. Each transit hotel has a business centre, for typing and mailing of documents (0700-2300 daily) plus a 24-hour service of photocopying and faxing. (Terminal 1 tel: 6542 5538; Terminal 2 tel: 6542 8122). Free Internet corners are dotted around several locations in the Departure/Transit lounges in Terminals 1 and 2, open 24 hours. Arrival/departure tax: A S$21 passenger service charge is incorporated in the price of the ticket. Transport to the city: The MRT (Mass Rapid Transit) has a station at Terminal 2, also accessible via the skytrain from Terminal 1, and is the quickest and cheapest way of getting into town. Trains run 0530-2318, (Mon-Sat); 0700-2318 (Sun) every 12 minutes. Tickets to the city centre cost S$1.80 (journey time – 27 minutes). Singapore Bus Service (SBS Transit) (tel: 1800 287 2727 from Singapore only or 1800 767 4333 from overseas; website: www.sbstransit.com.sg) operates regular buses into the city, with terminals in the basement of Terminals 1 and 2. Public buses (under $2, exact fare only) depart every 6-14 minutes 0600-2400. Bus number 36 goes along Orchard Road (journey time – 50 minutes). Taxis are available 24 hours from the Arrivals Hall, with journey time around 20-30 minutes between the airport and city centre. Taxi fares are between $16-$24 to the city, (plus a standard S$3 airport surcharge, S$5 Fri 1700 -Sun 2400), as well as any other surcharges – see Taxis in Getting Around). Limousine taxi service counters (offering journeys in London Taxis) are located at the arrival hall on Level 1 of both terminals. They charge a flat rate of S$35 to anywhere in the city and operate 0600-0200 daily. The six-seater MaxiCab, the airport shuttle service, run by CityCab (tel: 6552 2222; fax: 6552 7112; e-mail: feedback@citycab.com.sg; website: www.citycab.com.sg), costs S$7 and will go to almost every major hotel in Singapore. Book at the counters in the Arrivals Hall and pay the driver. It leaves from Terminal 1 and 2 every 30 minutes 0600-1800; and every 15 minutes 1805-2400. Getting There By Water Singapore is the world’s busiest port in terms of shipping tonnage and is also considered the cruise hub of the Asia Pacific. At any one time, there are more than 800 ships in port. The Singapore Cruise Centre (tel: 6513 2200; fax: 6275 1683; website: www.singaporecruise.com), opened to promote Singapore as the cruise gateway to the Asia Pacific, is situated on the seafront side of the Harbour Front Centre (formerly known as the World Trade Centre) on Telok Blangah Road, and has two terminals. The Harbour Front Centre (tel: 6377 6311; fax: 6275 1683) has ferries to the Indonesian island of Batam, and further destinations by cruise. Housed inside a shopping centre, it has restaurants, a food court and a travel agent for Batam trips. Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal (tel: 6542 9910; fax: 6540 8007) near Changi, is a smaller terminal, and has ferries to Bintam, Batam, Johor Bahru and destinations on the Malaysian coast. Operators include Bintan Resort Ferries (tel: 6542 4369; fax: 6542 4372; e-mail: reservations@brf.com.sq; website: www.brf.com.sg), Penguin Boat International (tel: 6271 4866; fax: 6271 6496; e-mail: reservation@penguin.com.sg; website: www.penguin.com.sg) and Sea Flyte Ferries Services (tel: 6270 0311; fax: 6270 0322; e-mail: enquiries@seaflyte.com; website: www.seaflyte.com). Transport to the city: The Singapore Cruise Centre is a 10-minute taxi ride from the city centre, opposite Sentosa Island, and a 10 minute walk from Harbour Front MRT station. Taxis leave from the Harbour Front Centre or Cable Car Towers in Maritime Square. Tanah Merah is served by regular public buses, operated by Singapore Bus Service (SBS) (tel: 6283 1783; fax: 6287 0311), including bus number 35 to Bedok interchange (0530-2400). There is a Taxi Order Terminal outside the ferry terminal; however, taxis ordered from here charge an S$8 premium. Getting There By Road The road system in Singapore is clear, easy and efficient, but can get very congested at peak times, and especially on weekends and holidays when Singaporeans crowd onto the road causeway to Johor Bahru in Malaysia. Driving is on the left and the speed limit is 50kph (31mph) in residential areas and 70-90kph (43-56mph) on expressways – and visitors should note that there are very severe punishments for speeding. For tourists, a valid driving licence from the country of residence is required for driving in Singapore. An International Driving Permit is recommended, especially if the driving licence is not in English, as it can help expedite proceedings where police are involved. The Automobile Association of Singapore (AAS; see below for details) has a helpline for information on IDPs, but drivers must apply for their IDP in their own country before arriving in Singapore. Foreign residents, however, must convert their national licence (or IDP) into a local licence. The Traffic Police (tel: 6547 0000) has information on road conditions and reporting all traffic accidents. Anyone driving their vehicle into Singapore must leave it at customs, then go to the AAS for endorsement, with their passport, vehicle registration documents and insurance. They must then buy local insurance, even if they have international insurance. They will then be given an International Circulation Permit processed within an hour, which will allow them to collect their vehicle. Foreign motorists bringing their vehicles from Malaysia are required to pay tolls and a Vehicle Entry Permit charge at checkpoints when they drive into Singapore. VEP charges are S$30 per day between Mon-Fri 0200-1900, with no charge Mon-Fri 1900-0200, Sat, Sun and Public Holidays. Alternatively, they can buy an Auto Pass Card from the Land Transport Authority. The AAS can give all the necessary information on these options. Minimum third-party insurance is required for driving in Singapore, which can be extended to cover Malaysia. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08%. Further information can be obtained from the Automobile Association of Singapore, 336 River Valley Road (tel: 6333 8811; fax: 6733 5094; e-mail: aasmail@aas.com.sg; website: www.aas.com.sg). Emergency breakdown services: AAS: 6748 9911 Routes to the city: The main route into Singapore is the kilometre-long causeway, linking the northern district of Woodlands with Malaysia’s Johor Bahru. This causeway is usually very busy but, at weekends, the volume of traffic multiplies. The ‘Second Link’, officially the Malaysia-Singapore Second Crossing, was built to alleviate the traffic and should be faster at busy periods. This second bridge is located on the western side of Singapore and it links the Tuas checkpoint in Singapore with Tanjung Kupang in Malaysia. The highway then runs up the western part of the Malay peninsular. The East Coast Parkway (ECP) runs from the airport into the city along the coast; Changi Road and Pan-Island Expressway (PIE) both provide alternative routes. Approximate driving times to Singapore: From Johor Bahru – between 20 minutes and 3 hours, depending on traffic; Kuala Lumpur – 3 hours; Malacca – 3 hours 30 minutes. Coach services: Operators include Regent Star Travel, Lavender MRT station (tel: 6292 9009; fax: 6294 1432) and Malacca-Singapore Express (tel: 6293 5915; fax: 6292 2436), which are both located at the bus terminal on the corner of Lavender Street and Kallang Bahru. Coach services go to a number of Malaysian destinations, including Kuala Lumpur and Penang, and usually depart every morning and evening. Getting There By Rail Malaysian Railway (KTM) (tel: 6222 5165; e-mail: passenger@ktmb.com.my; website: www.ktmb.com.my) operates services from Singapore Railway Station, on Keppel Road, Tanjong Pagar, just south of the Central Business District. The station has two restaurants, book shops and immigration and customs. Rail services: Trains depart daily for destinations in Malaysia, including Kuala Lumpur and Johor Bahru. Air-conditioned express trains to Kuala Lumpur leave three times a day with journeys taking seven hours. There are also five normal daily services to Kuala Lumpur. The journey to Johor Bahru takes around 50 minutes with four daily departures. Keppel Road is also the departure point for the three-day Eastern & Orient Express (tel: 6392 3500; fax: 6392 3600; e-mail: oereservations.singapore@orient-express.com; website: www.orient-express.com) to Kuala Lumpur, Kwai, Penang, Butterworth and Bangkok. Transport to the city: The railway station is not served by the MRT, although Tanjong Pagar MRT is a 20-minute walk away. Buses can be infrequent so the best way into the city is to queue for a taxi or telephone for one (see Taxis in Getting Around). Getting Around Public Transport Public transport in Singapore is efficient, ultra-modern, clean, cheap and mostly air-conditioned. TransitLink Hotline (tel: 1800 767 4333; website: www.transitlink.com.sg) is a new one-stop number set up by all the major transport providers (bus, underground etc) to help co-ordinate people’s transport needs (0800-1800 daily except public holidays). The train system is operated by Singapore Mass Rapid Transit (tel: 1800 336 8900; fax: 6334 8051; website: www.smrtcorp.com.sg). The MRT system extends north-south and east-west with trains every three to six minutes 0530-2430 daily. Fares range from S$0.80 to S$1.80. MRT also operate the Light Rapid Transit System (tel: 1800 336 8900; fax: 6334 8051; website: www.smrt.com.sg/slrt). There are currently 14 LRT stations – the system runs from Bukit Panjang New Town to Choa Chu Kang and Fajar in the suburbs. Each trip costs S$0.80-S$1.00. Trains run every three to five minutes. The bus system is operated by the Singapore Bus Service (tel: 1800 767 4333; fax: 6282 5204; e-mail: crc@sbstransit.com.sg; website: www.sbstransit.com.sg) and SMRT Buses (tel: 6482 3888; fax: 6482 3842; e-mail: busfeedback@smrt.com.sg; website: www.smrtbuses.com.sg). SBS buses run 0600-2400 with fares costing S$0.80-S$2.20. They also run the Bus-Plus service (tel: 6481 0166; fax: 6484 0129; e-mail: busplus@smrt.com.sg; website: www.busplus.com.sg), which operates during peak hours to shuttle passengers between residential areas and MRT stations or the Central Business District. Fares are S$3.20-S$4.20. Night Rider night buses (tel: 1800 336 8900) operate on limited routes between the city centre and residential suburbs until around 0400, and cost S$3. New electronic Smart Cards, known as ez-link Cards (website: www.ezlink.com.sg), may be used on any MRT, LRT or bus journey, and can be purchased and topped up from general ticketing machines at all MRT, LRT and bus stations. They may be topped up to any value. A small deposit is also required, which may be returned once the card is returned. These cards may be kept in a wallet or bag and placed near the card reader at ticket gates on trains or on entering a bus. Taxis Over 15,000 cheap, metered, safe and air-conditioned taxis ply the city, but their convenience and affordability means they are hard to find during peak hours, especially in the Central Business District (CBD) – and during a downpour. Taxis can be hailed 24 hours a day on the street, as well as at well-marked stands outside most shopping centres and hotels. Fares vary slightly between companies, usually starting at S$2.40 for the first kilometre and rising in increments of S$0.10. They are subject to a number of surcharges such as advance booking fees, during peak hours or a pick up in the CBD. There is a 50% surcharge 0000-0600 daily, and a S$5 surcharge 1700-2400 Friday, Saturday or Sunday, and surcharges for driving along certain highways at certain times. It is not customary to tip taxi drivers. Drivers changing shifts will only take passengers heading in their direction – the red board on the dashboard or windscreen indicates the destination. Although there is no longer a bell that rings if the taxi breaks the speed limit, most drivers adhere strictly to the 80kph (50mph) limit. Major taxi firms include CityCab (tel: 6552 2222 (cash payment) or 6553 8888 (credit/charge card payment); website: www.citycab.com.sg), Comfort (tel: 6552 1111; website: www.comfort-transportation.com.sg) and SMRT Taxis (tel: 6555 8888; website: www.smrttaxis.com.sg). Limousines More a taxi with style than a limo, SMRT Taxis (tel: 6555 8888; website: www.smrttaxis.com.sg) offers the Prestige service, available for any journey with regular taxi charges plus an S$8 surcharge, in a comfortable London Taxi. Phone bookings required. They also travel to and from any city destination and the airport for S$35. Comfort (tel: 6552 2828; website: www.comfort.transportation.com.sg) and CityCab (tel: 6552 2222; website: www.citycab.com.sg) also offer limousine services. Driving in the City Singapore’s highways are all designated by acronyms – AYE, ECP, CTE, AMK, PIE, ORR and CBD. Various tolls are levied in morning and evening peak hours to relieve congestion on expressways and busy roads, using the Electronic Road Pricing Scheme (ERP), which automatically deducts tolls from the In-Vehicle Unit or IU. This is fitted in all Singaporean vehicles and drivers purchase a rechargeable Cashcard and insert it in the IU. Vehicles that are not fitted with the IU must rent one. This can be done from petrol stations and other outlets, at a cost of S$5 daily, minimum of two days (plus a S$120 deposit). To help traffic flow in the Central Business District, all vehicles entering between 0730 and 1900 are also expected to pay a toll, which varies depending on the time. More information on the ERP is available from the Land Transport Authority (tel: 1800 225 5582 (local free phone); website: www.lta.gov.sg). The highways are easy to negotiate and traffic generally moves smoothly thanks to the ERP. Wearing seat belts in the front and back is mandatory and it is illegal to use a mobile phone while driving. Offences are treated seriously, with tough fines and even jail sentences. Singaporean drivers have a habit of lane drifting but otherwise traffic flows with very few abuses of etiquette. Parking is cheap and easily available all over the city, especially in hotel basement car parks. Rates vary depending on location, management and timing but public car parks cost around S$0.50 per half hour, double that inside the Central Business District. Some require parking coupons; others will take cash. Car Hire A valid national driving licence is required, although an International Driving Permit (IDP) is preferred and is mandatory where the driver’s national licence is not in English. Drivers also require a passport and credit card to hire a car. Minimum third-party insurance is compulsory and can be extended to cover Malaysia. The minimum age limit for hiring a car is 25 years. Major providers include Avis (tel: 6737 1668; fax: 6235 4958; e-mail: reservations@avis.com.sg; website: www.avisworld.com) and Hertz (tel: 6734 4646; fax: 6733 0466; reservation.hertz@simedarby.com.sg; website: www.hertz.com). Official rates start at around S$170 per day, with an extra S$40-90 per hour for a driver (minimum three hours). However, prices vary hugely depending on the time of year, while special offers, corporate accounts, AA membership, even certain credit cards can often bring the official price down considerably. Bicycle Hire Cycling in Singapore tends to be restricted to public parks, with East Coast Park a popular venue for cyclists and rollerbladers. Bicycle hire is available at several outlets in the park, from about S$1.50 per hour. Bicycles can also be hired at Sentosa, Pasir Ris and Bishan parks. The island of Pulau Ubin (see Excursions) has mountain bike facilities, with many hire shops near the jetty. Business Business Profile An obsession with productivity, the high standard of education of its workforce and its location at the heart of ASEAN (Association of Southeast Asian Nations) has made Singapore the most durable economy in the world. It is a remarkable model of economic development, with an almost uninterrupted growth of at least 8% per annum for over 30 years. As one of Asia’s 'tigers', it overtook Hong Kong as the best business centre in Asia in 2002. It also achieved high-profile recognition in 2001, when the World Economic Forum ranked it number one in Asia for growth competitiveness. Forbes Magazine held the Forbes Global CEO Conference in the city during the same year; and the IMF World Bank Annual Meeting is due here in 2006. Although productivity growth was lower in the 1990s than in the 1980s, a result of the 1997 Asian financial crisis, Singapore’s slowdown was far less dramatic than its neighbours and its recovery is well underway. GDP real growth rate was 1.1% in 2004, with the estimated unemployment rate at 4.8%, a slight increase on 2003 (4.6%). Of the workforce in 2003 (latest figures available), 49% were employed in financial, business and other services; 18% in manufacturing; 11% in transportation and communication; 6% in construction; and 16% in other sectors. The wave of recent regional and international events had a significant negative effect on the local economy, with a huge drop in tourists, but 2004 has seen a good recovery. The global recession after the September 11 terrorist attacks was followed a year later by the bomb attack in Bali in 2002, then the SARS outbreak in 2003 further discouraged visitors from the region. Nonetheless there were huge efforts to promote Singapore and 2004 saw around a 10% increase on 2002 figures, with an even bigger increase on SARS-affected 2003. The Tourism Board have succeeded in promoting Singapore as one of the world’s top convention cities and the best in Asia, with the International Congress and Convention Association ranking it third in the world in 2003. The business district lies towards the island’s east and southernmost tip and includes Orchard Road, Brah Basah Road and Raffles Boulevard, near which are the Singapore International Convention and Exhibition Centre, Pan Pacific and Suntec City. Most major international banks are here as well as international organisations like IBM, Nokia, National Panasonic, Canon, Toshiba, Hitachi, Sony and Nike. Business Etiquette Business Etiquette English is the official language of business in Singapore and business is conducted very much on a Western model. However, Asian (and especially Chinese) business ethics often prevail. Most offices are designed (interior and exterior) in consultation with a feng shui expert, in order to create the most auspicious environment for generating wealth and harmony, and most feature a fish pond or fountain to ensure that money flows in the right direction. Business cards are exchanged on every social and business occasion; and it is common courtesy to give or receive them with two hands (as with any piece of paper, including money). Corporate entertaining is high on the agenda and long lunches are often taken, with lavish buffets a popular option. Smoking is illegal in many places and is not always socially acceptable, so visitors should check before lighting up. There are 12 public holidays a year, the most significant being Chinese New Year, usually in February. This is the only occasion when almost everything shuts down – locals spend time visiting their families and ex-pats leave for a long weekend away. During other public holidays, like Christmas Day, banks and offices close but shops stay open. Business dress is fairly formal, however, men’s suits may veer towards lighter shades in Singapore’s tropical climate and, except for formal meetings, a jacket is usually dispensed with. Women wear skirt or trouser suits, while their Malay colleagues wear their national dress for formal functions. Some organisations have adopted casual Fridays, although only those departments with no client contact tend to take advantage of this. Locals and ex-pats alike work long hours. The official working day is 0900-1800 but much longer hours are quite common. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Despite a lack of natural resources, or perhaps because of it, Singapore has capitalised on the energy, enterprise and skills of its inhabitants to create something approaching a tourist mecca. Although most tourists only stop over for a couple of days in transit, many are beginning to stay longer and Singapore has much to merit a longer visit. This is a city where the first impression is that of man’s achievements; the efficient and aesthetically pleasing Changi Airport is repeatedly voted the world’s best. But here, world firsts are becoming commonplace, for example Suntec City boasts the biggest man-made fountain; and the Night Safari is the first night zoo. Heat and humidity not withstanding, the most efficient way to get to know local culture is on foot, especially around Chinatown, Little India and Geylang Serai in the heart of the city. These areas especially illustrate how Singapore’s successful economy is based upon ancient traditions, rituals and beliefs. It is usually this combination that entices people, but for a healthy dose of pure consumerism and entirely modern architecture, Orchard Road is ideal. But Singapore is not all urban landscape as first appears, and in keeping with its 'Garden City' label, there are many areas of natural beauty, albeit with a little help from humans. The Sungei Buloh Nature Park, Singapore Zoological Gardens, the Night Safari and Bukit Timah Nature Reserve are all hugely popular. For history lovers and culture vultures, there is also an impressive selection of museums, exhibitions and architectural heritage, like the Asian Civilisations Museum and the Singapore Art Museum. Tourist Information Singapore Tourism Board (STB) Tourism Court, 1 Orchard Spring Lane Tel: 6736 6622 or 1800 736 2000. Fax: 6736 9423. E-mail: stb_visitsingapore@stb.gov.sg Website: www.stb.com.sg or www.visitsingapore.com Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1730, Sat 0830-1300. STB Visitor Centres can also be found at the following addresses: Orchard, junction of Cairnhill Rd and Orchard Rd, 0800-2230 daily; Changi, Arrivals Hall Terminals 1 & 2, Changi Airport, 0600-0200; Liang Court, Level 1 Liang Court Shopping Centre, 177 River Valley Road, 1000-2200; Little India, The InnCrowd Backpackers Hostel, 73 Dunlop St, 1000-2200; Suntec City Mall, 1st Floor, 3 Temasek Boulevard; 1000-1800. Passes Admission ticket packages are available for Singapore Zoological Gardens, Night Safari and Jurong BirdPark, also with combinations of any two. Tickets are valid for one month from the date of purchase and cost S$30 (S$15 for children) for all three attractions. The Visitor Card (tel: 6734 1129 or 91010379; website: www.thevisitorcard.com) offers up to 40% off admission to many attractions and certain guided tours. A 3-day pass costs S$40, 7-days S$60, 14-days S$80, 1-month S$100; 3-months S$120, 6-months S$150 and 1-year S$200. Passes valid for more than one week include S$10 worth of ez-link credit. Key Attractions Raffles Hotel Built in 1887 and declared a National Monument a century later, Singapore’s most famous landmark is one of the world’s greatest Victorian hotels. A favourite retreat for Somerset Maugham, Rudyard Kipling, Noel Coward and Charlie Chaplin, it oozes colonial grace, enhanced by its extensive facelift in 1991, costing S$160 million. Afternoon tea in the Tiffin Room, a Singapore Sling in the Long Bar and a drink under the cool high ceilings of Bar & Billiard are all part of the Singapore experience. In addition, the new arcade contains shops, restaurants, a Victorian-style playhouse, and a museum housing fascinating Raffles memorabilia. 1 Beach Road Tel: 6337 1886. Fax: 6339 7650. E-mail: ask-us.singapore-raffles@raffles.com Website: www.raffleshotel.com Transport: MRT City Hall Station, then short walk to Beach Road. Admission: Free. Chinatown Chinatown’s history dates back to 1821 when the first Chinese junk carrying immigrants arrived from Fujian province. Much of it has been rebuilt and the old shop-houses restored and it remains one of the most interesting areas to explore, with a lively street scene rich with traditional architecture and customs. Its four main districts have their own distinctive flavour: Kreta Ayer (eating and shopping), Telok Ayer (temples and Speakers’ Corner), Tanjong Pagar (nightlife and the URA Gallery) and Bukit Pasoh (Chinese cultural and clan associations). The recently paved Smith Street is now known as Food Street, open till midnight, and is close to fantastic clothes and souvenir shops. Transport: MRT Outram (W2), then a 10-minute walk to Smith Street. Little India The streets of Little India, inhabited by the original Indian immigrants brought over by Sir Stamford Raffles in 1819, has been a thriving commercial area for over a century. Today’s attractions are mainly shopping, eating and temples, especially along the main hub of Serangoon Road, with spicy aromas emerging from shop-houses and wonderful Indian food to be devoured in the many informal restaurants. The Little India Arcade and Zhujiao Centre are newly converted shop-houses selling handicrafts, saris and spices, with more commercial wares at the 24-hour open Mustafa Centre. During Hindu festivals, the area comes to life especially around the thriving temples. Transport: Bus 64, 65, 85, 97 or 111 from Orchard Road. Night Safari The award-winning Night Safari is billed as the world’s first night wildlife park. With 90% of animals nocturnal, by using clever lighting techniques, this safari can show animals at their most active. Spread over 40 hectares (100 acres) of lush forest, more than 1,000 animals covering 100 exotic species, live in eight zones recreating geographic regions, including the African savannah and South American pampas. There are three walking trails, plus a 45-minute tram ride, cocktail safari express and limo buggy trail. The Creatures of the Night show sees employees grappling with some of the less dangerous species (daily at 2000, 2100 and 2200). 180 Mandai Lake Road Tel: 6269 3411 (24-hour information). Fax: 6366 3309. E-mail: info@zoo.com.sg Website: www.nightsafari.com.sg Transport: SBS bus 138 from Ang Mo Kio MRT or TIBS bus 927 from Choa Chu Kang MRT. Opening hours: Daily 1930-2400 (last admission 2300). Admission: S$18 (child S$9); tram rides S$6 (child S$3). See Sightseeing for information on passes. Jurong BirdPark The largest bird park in the Asia Pacific, this is home to more than 9,000 birds from 600 different species worldwide. Highlights of their shows include Waterfall Aviary, at 30 metres (98ft) the world’s highest man-made waterfall; the Penguin Parade with a panoramic viewing gallery to watch the 200 penguins feeding (1030 and 1530); the South-East Asian Bird Aviary, where a thunderstorm is simulated every day at noon; and Jungle Jewels, featuring dazzling hummingbirds. At the Lodge on Flamingo Lake, visitors can dine surrounded by 1001 flamingos. An air-conditioned monorail covers the entire park. 2 Jurong Hill Tel: 6265 0022. Fax: 6261 1869. E-mail: info@birdpark.com.sg Website: www.birdpark.com.sg Transport: MRT Boon Lay Station, then SBS bus 194 or 251 from Interchange. Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800. Admission: S$14 (child S$7); monorail S$4 (S$2). See Sightseeing for information on passes. Singapore River Once the lifeline of Singapore, and first port of call for its first immigrants, the river takes in many sights. Boat Quay and Clarke Quay have buzzing nightlife with lively waterfront bars and restaurants, while Robertson Quay is more classy than brassy. Parliament House, originally a colonial mansion built in 1827 and now The Arts House, is a venue for contemporary arts since 2004. Places of worship include Tan Si Chong Su Temple, an ancestral Hokkien temple built in 1876, and Omar Kampong Melaka Mosque. There are several riverboat services for leisurely cruises (see Tours of the City). Supreme Court and City Hall Dating from 1939, the Supreme Court is one of the finest buildings from British Rule in Singapore, with Corinthian columns and impressive Italian murals. The adjacent City Hall, built in 1929, was the site of the Japanese surrender to Lord Mountbatten in 1945 and also where Singapore’s Independence from Malaysia was declared. Visitors are permitted to attend most court hearings, and tour the building in organised groups. No shorts or vest tops. St Andrew’s Road Tel: 6332 4270. Fax: 6337 9450. E-mail: supcourt_qsm@supcourt.gov.sg Website: www.supcourt.gov.sg Transport: MRT City Hall; then walk across the Padang. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1700, Sat 0830-1230. Admission: Free. Singapore Art Museum Transformed from a 19th century boys’ school built by French Catholic monks, this is one of Singapore’s most striking structures. Now home to the Singapore Art Museum, its exhibits are predominantly 20th-century South-East Asian art, with paintings, sculptures and installations. Although specialising in regional art, the museum has recently broadened its field. Free guided tours in English are available on Mon 1400, Tue-Fri 1100 and 1400, Sat-Sun 1100, 1400 and 1530. 71 Bras Basah Road Tel: 6332 3222. Fax: 6334 7919. Website: www.nhb.gov.sg/sam Transport: MRT Dhoby Ghaut or City Hall. Opening hours: Sat-Thu 1000-1900; Fri 1000-2100. Admission: S$3; concs S$1.50; some temporary exhibitions extra; free after 1800 on Fri. Singapore Science Centre Housing more than 850 exhibits, mostly interactive, this is Singapore’s largest collection devoted to science. Exhibition halls include the Discovery Zone for young children, the Human Body, Space Science, the Hall of Aviation, and the Web of Life – all explaining science in ingenious ways. Outside are the Ecogarden and the Kinetic Garden, which is the first of its kind in Asia, with interactive sculptures and science displays. There is also an Omni-Theatre. Within the complex is the new Snow City, the first permanent indoor snow centre in Singapore, offering facilities for snowboarding, skiing or 'organised' snow-ball fights. 15 Science Centre Road Tel: 6425 2500. Fax: 6565 9533. E-mail: enquiry@science.edu.sg Website: www.science.edu.sg Transport: MRT Jurong East, then SBS or 335. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800 (last Omni-Theatre show 2000). Admission: S$6; child S$3; Omni-Theatre S$10, child S$5. Snow City 21 Jurong Town Hall Road Tel: 6788 8788. Fax: 6560 1297. E-mail: snowcity@income.com.sg Website: www.snowcity.com.sg Opening hours: Tue-Sun 1030-1830. Admission: S$12 (single session); S$18 (double session). Singapore Cable Car Spanning over 1750 metres (5740ft), this is South East Asia’s first ever cable car. It stops at three stations (visitors can board at all three) each with beautiful, and very different, views. Mount Faber is the second highest hill in Singapore and an equatorial rainforest; Cable Car Towers is the rooftop of a skyscraper, near the Harbour Front Centre and above the busy harbour; the third station is on the island of Sentosa. Some cars are glass-bottomed, making the journey even more spectacular. A free shuttle service takes visitors between Mount Faber and various transport locations. 109 Mount Faber Road, Cable Car Towers, 3 Maritime Square, or Sentosa Island Tel: 6270 8855. Fax: 6273 4639. E-mail: cablecar@singnet.com.sg Website: www.cablecar.com.sg Operating hours: Daily 0830-2100 (last cable car leaves Sentosa). Price: S$9.90 (normal cabin); S$15 (glass cabin). Shuttle service from Mt Faber: Mon-Fri 1800-0300; Sat-Sun 0700-0300. Asian Civilisations Museum Housed in a restored neo-classical building dating back to 1910, this museum focuses on a broad and in-depth perspective of pan-Asian cultures and civilisations, especially the origins of Singapore’s founders. With exhibits set in two sites, its new flagship venue at Empress Place has 11 galleries with exhibits ranging from China to West Asia and the Islamic world. The original building in Armenian Street has a suite of galleries on Peranakan (Malay term for 'locally born') culture. Free English daily tours at 1100 and 1400; plus Sat & Sun at 1530. 39 Armenian Street Tel: 6332 3015. Fax: 6332 7993. E-mail: nhb_acm@nhb.gov.sg Website: www.nhb.gov.sg/acm/acm.shtml Transport: MRT City Hall or MRT Raffles Place. Opening hours: Mon 1300-1900; Tues-Sun 0900-1900 (until 2100 Fri). Admission: S$3; concs S$1.50. Discount for ticket to both. 1 Empress Place Tel: 6332 7798. E-mail: nhb_acm@nhb.gov.sg Website: www.nhb.gov.sg/acm/acm.shtml Transport: Opening hours: Mon 1300-1900; Tues-Sun 0900-1900 (until 2100 Fri). Admission: S$5; concs S$2.50. Discount for ticket to both. Changi Chapel & Museum A harrowing monument to more than 50,000 soldiers and civilians who were killed during Japanese Occupation (1942-45), Changi Chapel, a replica of many built at this time, is housed within the courtyard of the new Museum. The museum contains letters, drawings and personal effects of the prisoners of war, with a replica of the Changi Murals and screenings of several videos. Services are held every Sunday 0945-1100 in the chapel, visitors welcome. 1000 Upper Changi Road North Tel: 6214 2451. Fax: 6214 1179. E-mail: changi_museum@pacific.net.sg Website: www.changimuseum.com Transport: MRT Tanah Merah, then SBS bus 2. Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700; guided tours on the hour from 1000. Admission: Free; S$8 (guided tours); concessions available. Singapore Botanic Gardens As a perfect respite from the city’s urban landscape, the gardens epitomise the island’s luxuriant parks with a combination of primary jungle and elegantly laid-out flowerbeds and shrubs, serving to educate and conserve. With over 3,000 species spread over 52 hectares (128 acres), the National Orchid Garden has the world’s largest orchid display, with over 60,000 plants in total. The gardens are also a venue for outdoor concerts. 80 Cluny Road Tel: 6471 7361. Fax: 6473 7983. E-mail: nparks_sbg_visitor_services@nparks.gov.sg Website: www.sbg.org.sg Transport: SBS bus 7, 105, 123 or 174 from Orchard Boulevard. Opening hours: Daily 0500-2400; daily 0830-1900 (National Orchid Garden). Admission: Free; S$5 (National Orchid Garden). Sentosa Island Billed as a ‘tropical isle of peace and tranquillity’, Sentosa Island is a purpose-built island theme park, with attractions including Underwater World, a huge tropical oceanarium with 2,500 marine creatures in an 80m (262ft) submerged tunnel; Dolphin Lagoon, a water show with a pink dolphin; VolcanoLand, which recreates a journey into the centre of the earth; the 37 metre (121ft) Merlion; and Magical Sentosa, a musical fountain show twice every evening. Museums include Images of Singapore, with waxwork figures depicting Singapore’s history, and Fort Silosa, recreating bunkers and underground passages used for defence. Beaches, golf courses, hotels, entertainment and restaurants, are dotted throughout Sentosa. A free monorail and bus tour the island and visitors can jump off at any station. Tel: 6275 0388 or 1800 736 8672 (toll free information line in Singapore only). Fax: 6275 0161. E-mail: administrator@sentosa.com.sg Website: www.sentosa.com.sg Transport: Orchard bus E from Orchard Road; or Sentosa bus A and C from Harbour Front Centre and Tiong Bahru MRT; or cable car from Mount Faber. Opening hours: Attractions vary; usually daily 0900-1900 (or as late as 2200). Admission: S$2 (excluding transport to the island). Additional charges for individual attractions (S$3-17). Further Distractions Bukit Timah Nature Reserve This 164-hectare (405-acre) reserve, 12km (7.5 miles) from the city centre, is one of the first forest reserves established in Singapore and one of the city’s few natural attractions. With more species of trees than North America, it is great for hiking or cycling along its well-marked paths, alongside a wonderful variety of plants, animals an insects, including flying lemur and ant-eater. Within the reserve is Bukit Timah Hill, at 164m (538ft) and Singapore’s highest point. 177 Hindhede Drive Tel: 6468 5736 or 1800 468 5736. Fax: 6455 3605. Website: www.nparks.gov.sg Transport: SMRT bus 171 from Orchard MRT or Newton. Opening hours: Daily 0700-1900. Visitor Centre 0830-1800. Admission: Free. Tours of the City The Singapore Tourism Board in Tourism Court (website: www.visitsingapore.com) can provide information on an enormous number of city tours with private companies, whether walking, on buses, cruises, or by night. Hotels can also book most of these. Their leaflet Your Essential Singapore Guide has a chapter on assorted tours. Walking Tours The Original Singapore Walks (tel: 6325 1631; fax: 6224 0136; e-mail: fun@singaporewalks.com; website: www.singaporewalks.com; adults S$18-30) organises eight guided walking tours with different themes including a Chinatown night walk, the Colonial district and Little India. No pre-booking necessary, but call or check the website to find out the meeting point and start time. Bus Tours There are many bus tours run by different private operators – Singapore Tourism Board can provide details or they can be booked via hotels. One of the most popular is the Singapore Trolley (tel: 6339 6833; fax: 6336 1830; website: www.singaporeexplorer.com.sg), a replica of the red trams of the 1920s. The one-hour tour takes in 17 spots between Orchard Road, the colonial district and Clarke Quay, with running commentary. The fare (S$14.90) includes a free riverboat tour. There are six tours a day, departing from the taxi stand at Clarke Quay at 0930, 1040, 1230, 1340, 1450 and 1600. Boat Tours Boat tours are run by Singapore River Cruises & Leisure (tel: 6336 6111; fax: 6336 6112; e-mail: srcruise@singnet.com.sg; website: www.rivercruise.com.sg) along the Singapore River. Cruises on bumboats begin at Raffles Landing Site and take in grand colonial buildings, century-old godowns, shophouses, grand bridges of diverse designs, and the chic quayside life along the way. Choose from the 30-minute Singapore River Experience (S$12, children S$6) or the 45-minute New River Experience (S$15, children S$8). Boats operate 0900-2200 and leave regularly. Taxi Tours Visitors can now take a more personal tour with a taxi driver who is also a qualified tour guide. Several three-hour tours take in interesting sights and areas, with extra time paid for on an hourly basis. They can all be booked through the taxi company’s hotline: CityCab (tel: 6542 5831), Comfort Taxi (tel: 9783 6033) and SMRT Taxi (tel: 6555 8888), or through your hotel, with an option of four- and six-seater vehicles. A three-hour trip costs about S$30 per hour for up to 6 passengers. Excursions For a Half Day Pulau Ubin: The boomerang-shaped hill-covered island with just 100 inhabitants is a very popular getaway, especially at weekends. With its thatched huts, rubber plantations, mangrove swamps and traditional fishing kelongs, Pulau Ubin, rich in granite, offers a vision of a lost Singapore, although it is gradually being developed into a nature park with trekking and camping facilities. On the eastern tip is Check Jawa, a beach with a great collection marine life, which can be visited by boat during low tide, but numbers are limited to protect the ecosystem. Bookings must be made with the National Parks Board, which also has good information (tel: 6542 4108, fax: 6542 4843; e-mail: nparks-mailbox@nparks.gov.sg; website: www.nparks.gov.sg). A couple of colourful temples lie by the seashore, near seafood restaurants and cafés. The 10-minute boat ride from Changi Point jetty costs S$2 (S$4 with a bicycle) and boats leave 0600-2000, provided there are enough passengers. Visitors can charter the whole boat for S$20. Near the pier is the information kiosk, open 0900-1700, where bookings can also be made for a free guided tour every 4th Saturday of the month, at 0930 and 1000. Bikes can be hired at the pier for around S$7 per day. For a Whole Day Johor Bahru: Singaporeans flock to Johor Bahru, known as JB, just over the Malaysian border, for its food, bargain shopping, golf and beaches. It usually takes less than an hour to get there by car, although it may take much longer at weekends and public holidays, and it is accessible by MRT (to Woodlands then a bus on the other side of the border). With its blend of historic and modern architecture, JB’s most striking building is the Royal Bakar Mosque, whose majestic domes and minarets overlook the Straits of Johor. A string of outdoor restaurants serve up seafood on the waterfront by the Eden Gardens Hotel. For further information contact Johor Tourism (tel: (607) 223 4935 or 224 9960 or 1432; fax: (607) 223 7554; e-mail: info@johortourism.com.my; website: www.johortourism.com.my). Riau Islands: The Indonesian islands of Batam and Bintan make for a great weekend or one-day getaway with luxury resorts, fairways, beaches, duty-free shopping and delicious seafood. Ferries leave daily from the Harbour Front Centre and the Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal (see Getting There By Water). Malacca: The 15th-century seat of the Malaya Sultanate, Malacca (a 3-4 hour drive from Singapore) was colonised by the Portuguese, Dutch and British in their attempts to gain control of the region and the lucrative spice trade. Located on the western coast of Malaysia, its quiet demeanour belies its historical significance: Malay folk hero Hang Tuah wandered its streets, while St Francis Xavier preached on St Paul’s Hill. Highlights include St Paul’s Church, Cheng Hoon Teng Temple, antique shops on Jonker Street and the ruins of the Portuguese fortress Port De Santiago. Transport from Singapore includes bus, train and private tour bus. Sport Although Singaporeans are renowned food-lovers and shopaholics, the government has given itself the huge challenge of improving people’s fitness levels. Competitive sports are not prominent and the nation’s favourite sports are listed as swimming and jogging, with a growing popularity in hockey and tennis. The Singapore Sports Council (tel: 6345 7111; fax: 6340 9537; website: www.ssc.gov.sg) organises sporting activities designed for maximum participation, including national swim and cycle events, and also runs SPEX21 (Sporting Excellence 21), an initiative which aims to bring Singapore to international sporting excellence. Swimming is popular, with pools in most residential areas, and gyms are equipped with the latest in fitness technology. Singapore is renowned for its acres of golf courses and there are plenty of opportunities for watersports. The most popular spectator sport is football, and the national team (website: www.fas.org.sg) play at the National Stadium, Kallang, although with a lowly FIFA ranking they rarely make waves even at regional level. The national league, the S-League, (tel: 6348 3477; website: www.sleague.com) was set up in 1994 and has 10 teams from different areas of the city, including one from China (Sinchi FC). Tampines Rovers swept to victory winning both the league and cup double in 2004. Tickets are available at the grounds. English football is immensely popular with regular televised Premier League and European matches; Liverpool and Manchester United have toured Singapore over the past few years to play against local sides. Singapore Rugby Union’s national team (tel: 6467 4038; website: www.sru.org.sg) participates in the Asian league, and also runs the domestic Super League. Every year sees a boozy fiesta of international rugby, at the Rugby 7’s held in April at the National Stadium. The Singapore Indoor Stadium (tel: 6344 2660; fax: 6344 5903; e-mail: contactus@sis.gov.sg; website: www.sis.gov.sg), also at Kallang, hosts the Heineken Tennis Open tournament. Horseracing is immensely popular, held year-round at the Singapore Turf Club (tel: 6879 1000; fax: 6879 1010; website: www.turfclub.com.sg) at Kranji, providing the only legal outlet for gambling. Races are held most Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, with the biggest race of the year being the lucrative Singapore Airlines International Cup (May). There is a dress code even in the public stands, with no shorts allowed and a smart-casual look for the Hibiscus Room, which allows visitors. Rugby and cricket matches are held on the picturesque Padang, at the colonial heart of Singapore. This is the home of the Singapore Cricket Club (tel: 6338 9271; website: www.scc.org.sg) and is members only, although it is possible to watch matches away from the clubhouse. The Singapore Cricket Association (tel: 6348 6566; website: www.cricket.org.sg) runs the national team, which participates in Asian tournaments, and also the domestic league with matches held at weekends. Information on fixtures, events and venues are available in the local press, and Singapore Sports Council (see above), offers an online sports facilities reservation system. Bowling: Ten-pin bowling is a popular pastime with over 30 bowling alleys in the city. The Singapore Ten-pin Bowling Congress (tel: 6440 7388; fax: 6440 7488; e-mail: general@singaporebowling.org.sg; website: www.singaporebowling.org.sg) can give details of venues. Most are open 0900-0200; some open 24 hours at weekends. Fitness Centres: Numerous centres include Ray Wilson California Fitness Center, Grange Road (tel: 6834 2100; fax: 6834 2122; website: www.calfitnesscenters.com), and Fitness-Plus Club, Gallery Hotel, 76 Robertson Quay (tel: 6836 1191; fax: 6836 3433; e-mail: fitplus@pacific.net.sg; website: www.fitness-plus.com.sg or www.interfitness.com). Gym facilities are also available at all the major hotels. Golf: Singapore allegedly has more golf courses per capita than anywhere else in the world (18), several of which are of championship quality. In most clubs, non-members are not allowed to play at weekends and are often expected to hold a handicap or proficiency certificate to play at all. Courses include: Changi Golf Club, Netheravon Road (tel: 6545 5133), which has a nine-hole course with green fees from S$40; Keppel Club, Bukit Chermin Road (tel: 6273 5522; fax: 6545 2531; website: www.keppelclub.com.sg), 18 holes from S$110; Raffles Country Club, Jalan Ahmad Ibrahim (tel: 6861 7649; fax: 6861 5293; website: www.rcc.org.sg), two 18-hole courses from S$105; Sentosa Golf Club, Bukit Manis Road (tel: 6275 0022; fax: 6275 0005), two 18-hole courses from S$120. More information on golf courses is available at www.golf-asia.com. Riding & Polo: The Singapore Polo Club, Mount Pleasant Road (tel: 6854 3999; fax: 6256 6715; website: www.singaporepoloclub.org), hosts polo matches throughout the year on most Tuesdays, Thursdays and weekends. Sailing: Seasport Centre, near Lagoon Hawker Centre, 1212 East Coast Parkway (tel: 6449 5118), can be used by non-members for windsurfing and sailing; while sailing only is available at Changi Sailing Club, 32 Netheravon Road (tel: 6545 2876; fax: 6542 4235; e-mail: enquiry@csc.org.sg; website: www.csc.org.sg). Scuba Diving: Although lacking crystal-clear waters, Singapore is a good location to complete scuba diving pool training before heading off elsewhere. Dive operators include Big Bubble Centre (tel: 6222 6862; fax: 6222 6862; e-mail: dive@bigbubble.com; website: www.bigbubble.com). Squash: Courts can be hired at Kallang Squash and Tennis Centre, 52 Stadium Road (tel: 6440 6839), and St Wilfred Squash and Tennis Centre, 3 St Wilfred Road (tel: 6293 3452). Swimming: All the top hotels have pools and every residential neighbourhood has a public swimming complex. The Singapore Sports Council (tel: 6345 7111; website: www.ssc.gov.sg) can provide additional information. Tennis: Courts can be hired at Kallang Tennis Centre, Stadium Rd (tel: 6348 1291). See also Squash above. Water-skiing & Wakeboarding: Despite its sludgy waters, Singapore is one of Asia’s top water-skiing and wakeboarding centres. Several centres rent out equipment and also offer professional instruction: Extreme Sports at Kallang Riverside Park (tel: 6344 8813; fax: 6245 6995; e-mail: info@extreme.com.sg; website: www.extreme.com.sg), and Williams Water Sports Centre, Marina Country Club, 600 Ponggol, 17th Avenue (tel: 6257 5859; fax: 6315 6672; e-mail: wwsccon@singnet.com.sg; website: www.williamwatersports.com.sg). Shopping Singapore has always had a reputation for being a shopper’s paradise, and one which is continually promoted, especially during the Great Singapore Sale from May to early June, which, with bargains of up to 70% off, is almost a national obsession and attracts shoppers galore. Orchard Road is the central retail district and is lined on both sides with shopping malls ranging from designer clothes retailers such as Hilton Shopping Gallery, to high-street bargains at the Far East Shopping Centre. Ngee Ann City is the largest mall of all, with more than 100 speciality stores in addition to its flagship Japanese superstore, Takashimaya. On the top floors of the Heeren Centre, Annex is a collection of market stalls selling vintage fashion and quirky accessories. Below is a huge HMV, the largest music store in the city. Centrepoint, in the middle of Orchard Road, is home to Robinsons, Singapore’s oldest and award-winning department store. Bugis Junction, whose dark alleyways were once the haunt of Singapore’s transvestite community, is now a glass-covered air-conditioned street known as Parco, incorporating shop-houses, modern outlets and a huge Japanese department store. The night market at Bugis Village, opposite Parco, still has the charm of its past years. Raffles City, at City Hall, contains the noted Chinese Embroidery House, and opposite are exclusive boutiques at Raffles Hotel. Chinatown is a colourful web of streets and alleys with a wealth of artefacts, jewellery, clothes, food and medicines for sale behind traditional Chinese shop-house fronts, and great for buying gifts especially along Smith Street and Trengganu Street. Nearby is Yue Hwa Chinese Products, a five-floor department store selling all things Chinese, while Chinatown Point contains the Singapore Handicraft Centre. Little India, on and around Serangoon Road, is a treasure trove of sumptuous textiles, as well as spices, jewellery, handicrafts and cheap Indian CDs. The Mustafa Centre, a three-storey emporium open 24 hours, sells mainly electrical goods at fixed prices and offers excellent deals, although it is worth checking the warranty. Singaporeans love Sim Lim Square (Bugis) for discount electronic goods; four levels stacked with cameras, computer equipment, pirate CDs, hi-fi and video equipment. Again, visitors should check for a valid warranty. Funan Centre (City Hall) has dozens of computer shops on each floor at competitive prices. The warehouses on Dempsey Road sell Chinese antiques, original and reproduction furniture, while Tanglin Shopping Centre (Orchard Road) hoards some of Asia’s finest statues, carpets and antique furniture. One of the best flea markets is at Clarke Quay, 3 River Valley Road, every Sunday 1000-1800. The flea market outside Tanglin Mall, 163 Tanglin Road, is mainly for fashion and is open the first and third Saturday of every month, 1700-2300. Thieves Market on and around Sungei Road is open weekends 1100-1800, with a haphazard collection of second-hand novelty items and handicrafts. Most stores are open daily about 1000-2100/2200, although boutiques close earlier. All prices include a 5% Goods and Services Tax (GST), which is refundable at Changi Airport’s Global Refund Centre (website: www.globalrefund.com) or the Global Refund counter at level 2, Scotts Shopping Centre (1100-2000 daily), on individual purchases over S$300, or on S$300 made up of several items with a minimum value of S$100. Shoppers need to look out for the Tax-Free Shopping logo, complete the Global Refund Shopping cheque and present it with their goods. Money is refunded either as cash or Changi Airport Shopping Vouchers (where 10% will be added), or by direct transfer to a credit card or bankers cheque. Culture Culture and religion remain entwined in Singapore, far more than in the West. Throughout the year, a constant stream of festivals and celebrations in the streets and temples reflect the diverse beliefs and backgrounds of this multicultural society, comprising of Buddhists, Taoists, Muslims, Hindus, Christians and Sikhs. The Chinese calendar dominates and the Chinese New Year is the biggest festival of all, where everything shuts for several days. The city’s art scene reflects the flavours of the region, with Malay, Chinese and Indian performances, art and music. Mainstream performing arts are also well represented, culminating in the Singapore Arts Festival, held every June, which attracts international dance, theatre and music groups. Performers from overseas tend to be heavily oversubscribed and tickets should be booked well in advance; local performers are easier to see. Popular events also include local productions of Broadway hits. Free musical and theatrical performances are held regularly in local parks. Singapore is a good place to view and purchase local and Asian art and its cultural diversity means that local artists cover a broad palette of themes and styles. Notable galleries include the Singapore Art Museum, Bras Basah Road (tel: 6332 3222; website: www.nhb.gov.sg); Artfolio, Raffles Hotel (tel: 6334 4677; fax: 6333 5215; e-mail: info@artfolio.com.sg; website: www.artfolio.com.sg); Art2 at The Substation, Armenian Street (tel: 6337 7535 or 7800; fax: 6337 2729; e-mail: admin@substation.org; website: www.substation.org) specialises in contemporary works; and the galleries on the ground floor of the Ministry of Information, Communication and the Arts, MITA Building, 140 Hill Street (tel: 6270 7988; e-mail: mica@mica.gov.sg; website: www.mica.gov.sg). Local newspapers (the biggest English-language paper is the Straits Times) carry lists of daily events, and both IS and BC magazines are free publications with good listings and reviews for exhibitions, dance, art and music. Additional information can be obtained from the National Arts Council (tel: 6746 4622; fax: 6837 3017; website: www.nac.gov.sg) or through the Singapore Tourism Board. Tickets can be booked through Sistic (tel: 6348 5555; website: www.sistic.com.sg) or Ticketcharge (tel: 6296 2929; fax: 6296 9897; e-mail: purchase@ticketcharge.com.sg; website: www.ticketcharge.com.sg). Music: The Singapore Symphony Orchestra (tel: 6338 1230; fax: 6336 6382; e-mail: ssonet@singnet.com.sg; website: www.sso.org.sg) gives performances every Friday, Saturday and some Sundays at the Victoria Concert Hall, Empress Place (tel: 6338 6125; fax: 6333 0041; website: www.vch.org.sg), and the Esplanade Concert Hall (tel: 6828 8222; fax: 6337 3633; e-mail:corporate@esplanade.com; website: www.esplanade.com) as well as open-air concerts. Founded in 1979, the SSO bridges Asian and Western music and has a growing, if still fragile, reputation. The Singapore Chinese Opera (tel: 6440 3839; website: www.sco.com.sg) performs Chinese opera at its headquarters, the Singapore Conference Hall, 7 Shenton Way (tel: 6440 3839; fax: 6557 2915; website: www.sch.org.sg). Singapore Lyric Opera, Waterloo Street (tel: 6336 1929; fax: 6337 1706; e-mail: e-mail@singaporeopera.com.sg; website: www.singaporeopera.com.sg), usually performs Western classical pieces, occasionally fusion, at assorted venues. Theatre: Local groups are extremely energetic in producing contemporary theatre with an Asian flavour, reflecting Singapore’s ethnic diversity. The newest and largest venue for performing arts, The Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay, 1 Esplanade Drive (tel: 6828 8222; fax: 6337 3633; e-mail:corporate@esplanade.com; website: www.esplanade.com), is a waterfront complex containing a concert hall, recital studio, two theatres and an art gallery. Some of the more prolific theatre companies include: Singapore Repertory Theatre, Cecil Street (tel: 6221 5585; fax: 6221 1936; e-mail: office@srt.com.sg; website: www.srt.com.sg), showcasing at the DBS Arts Centre, 6 Shenton Way; TheatreWorks (tel: 6338 4077; fax: 6338 8299; e-mail: tworks@singnet.com.sg; website: www.theatreworks.org.sg), based at the Black Box in Fort Canning Centre, Cox Terrace Fort, Canning Park; and Wild Rice (tel: 6292 2695; fax: 6292 2249; e-mail: info@wildrice.com.sg; website: www.wildrice.com.sg). The Substation, 45 Armenian Street (tel: 6337 7535 website: tel: 6337 7535 or 7800; fax: 6337 2729; e-mail: admin@substation.org; website: www.substation.org), shows modern, experimental drama. Dance: Ecnad Project (tel: 6226 6404; e-mail: info@ecnad.org; website: www.ecnad.org), is a young professional performing arts group, renowned for its cutting-edge, dynamic performances, and based at the Telok Ayer Performing Arts Centre in Cecil Street. The Singapore Dance Theatre (tel: 6338 0611; fax: 6338 9748; e-mail: ticketing@singaporedancetheatre.com; website: www.singaporedancetheatre.com) performs classical dance and ballet and based at Fort Canning Centre, Cox Terrace Fort, Canning Park. One of the city’s most popular events is their Ballet Under the Stars, held twice a year at Fort Canning Hill. Film: The annual Singapore International Film Festival in April (website: www.filmfest.org.sg) features documentaries and films from around the globe, in addition to other foreign film festivals throughout the year. The Starlight Cinema festival (website; www.starlightcinema.com) is a one-month season of outdoor screenings in Fort Canning Green, from mid-June. Mainstream films, predominantly Hollywood blockbusters, are highly popular and often sold out. Singapore’s main cinemas for English language films include Cathay Orchard, 8 Grange Road, and Cathay Causeway Point, 1 Woodlands Square (tel: 6235 1155; fax: 6735 8389; website: www.cathay.com.sg); Lido, Shaw House, 350 Orchard Rd; Bugis, Parco Bugis Junction; Balastier, 360 Balastier Road, Prince/Jade, Shaw Tower, 100 Beach Road (all at tel: 6738 0555; website: www.shaw.com.sg); and Golden Village, 68 Orchard Rd (tel: 1900 912 1234; website: www.gv.com.sg). There are no art cinemas, but the Alliance Française, Sarkies Road (tel: 6737 8422; fax: 6733 3023; website: www.alliancefrancais.org.sg), screens mainstream and alternative French films every Tuesday. Cultural Events: Singapore’s calendar of cultural events is a mix of traditional religious festivals and contemporary showcases for the arts. In January, Hindus celebrate Thaipusam, a time of devotion, penance and thanksgiving; although this is outshone by the celebrations at Lunar New Year, highlight of the Chinese calendar (Jan/Feb) where the streets of Chinatown are brimming with parades, lights, decorations and dragon dances. Vesak Day, in May, honours the birth, enlightenment and death of Sakyamuni Buddha. The annual Singapore Dragon Boat Festival in June sends fishermen in search of the Chinese poet and patriot, Qu Yuan. National Day Celebration on 9 August is the anniversary of Singapore’s independence, with a huge parade before thousands of spectators. The month-long Festival of the Hungry Ghost (Aug to Sept) is one of the biggest Chinese festivals, when sumptuous banquets and Chinese street operas are held. The Lantern Festival in September sees children pour into the Chinese Garden with colourful paper lanterns. The Hindu festival Deepavali (Oct/Nov) marks the victory of good over evil, with the temples in Little India, decorated with fairy lights and garlands. Muslims celebrate Hari Raya Puasa to mark the end of Ramadan (the month of fasting), in October/November. Throughout the year there are many cultural events showcasing the arts. These include the Singapore Arts Festival in June, with music, dance and drama from local and international performers; WOMAD, which takes over Fort Canning Park for three days in August; ARTSingapore, which showcases contemporary art from South-East Asia, and the Singapore Music Festival. The Singapore Film Festival, usually in April, continues to try and make cultural headway in a heavily censored society, which would rather give its attention to the Great Singapore Sale, the annual shopping bonanza, in May/June. Both www.sg (the website of the Ministry of Information, Communications and the Arts) and www.visitsingapore.com (Singapore Tourism Board) are good, reliable sources for up-to-date information and events listings. Literary Notes: ‘When in Singapore, feed at Raffles.’ It was a good piece of marketing for the hotel by Rudyard Kipling, who came to Singapore after leaving India in 1889. In fact, Kipling spoke of ‘a place called Raffles Hotel, where the food is as excellent as the rooms are bad’. Raffles has, for over a century, been fertile writing ground for many authors, including Hermann Hesse, Joseph Conrad, Noel Coward, Somerset Maugham and James Michener – and in their honour the Writer’s Bar was named. More than any other, Somerset Maugham sought inspiration on several visits to the island. His short stories of Singaporean colonial life include The Outstation, Yellow Streak, The Casuarina Tree (1926), and the controversial The Letter (1927), the real-life murder of her lover by a rubber planter’s wife. More recently, Singapore’s story is told through the man mainly responsible for its success; the former Prime Minister and now Minister Mentor Lee Kuan Yew, grandson of a Hakka coolie from China. His memoirs From Third World to First – The Singapore Story (2000) recount the events leading up to Singapore’s Independence, from British colonial rule through Japanese occupation and Communist insurrection. Defending the Lion City (2000) by Tim Huxley is the first-ever major study of the Singapore Armed Forces and analyses its military strategy, outlook and policies. Prominent contemporary Singaporean novelists include Hwee Hwee Tan, whose Foreign Bodies: A Novel (1999) tells of an authoritarian state in which three rootless friends become implicated in an international soccer gambling syndicate. Mammon Inc. (2001), her latest novel, is a cutting satire of our times. A very different Singapore is portrayed in Catherine Lim’s The Bondmaid (1997), set in the 1950s, which paints a picture of a Singapore entwined with its Chinese roots, traditions and beliefs. Two popular recent reads are Got Singapore (2002), a collection of articles and stories by journalist Richard Lim, with a personal and humorous testimony about his experiences from the 1960s to the 1980s. In Notes from an Even Smaller Island (2002), Neil Humphreys dissects the culture and lifestyle of Singapore from an ex-pat’s viewpoint. Nightlife After-hours drinking and dancing is not as diverse as in many big cities around the world – the range tends to be upmarket, trendy bars and clubs or alternatively karaoke lounges, with little room for an alternative music scene, but most venues are packed at weekends. Certain areas and venues are popular with expats and tourists, like Boat Quay with its string of shop-houses converted into noisy bars and restaurants overlooking the river. The bars in the hotels along Orchard Road are a safe bet for a refined drink or to meet clients, and nearby Emerald Hill Road has a great collection of lively bars attracting locals and visitors. The area with the best nightlife is around Mohammed Sultan Road, with nearby Robertson Quay offering several classy waterfront venues. The East Coast has a few respectable, expat-flavoured bars, and Tanjong Pagar attracts a mixed, trendy crowd to its English-style bars and karaoke lounges. Most clubs are open 2200-0100 Sunday to Thursday and 2200-0300 Friday and Saturday. Dress code is generally smart-casual and the minimum age limit for drinking alcohol is 18 years, although some clubs have an over-21 policy. There is normally a cover charge, especially at weekends, usually around S$25 for the more trendy places. Drinks tend to be quite expensive, but most bars offer happy hours or two-for-one on drinks at certain hours of the evening. IS Magazine (free), which has good local listings and review guides, is available at many food and drinks outlets island-wide. Bars: Within the colonial grandeur of Raffles Hotel, 1 Beach Road, is Bar & Billiard Room, and the Long Bar for that famous Singapore Sling. The pretty Emerald Hill, with 19th-century Peranakan shop-houses, contains several bars, the liveliest of which is probably Ice Cold Beer, 9 Emerald Hill, famous for little else but its deliciously cold beers. For a civilised drink in an intimate, sophisticated setting. Bar Opiume, 1 Empress Place Waterfront, is a winner purely for its location, with a cool terrace facing the river, pulling in a chic crowd. For a chocolate martini, try the Mezza9 Martini Bar, Grand Hyatt, Scotts Road. Casinos: Casinos and all other gambling activities are illegal in Singapore. The only legal alternatives are various lotteries and on-course betting on horseraces at Singapore Turf Club (see Sport). Clubs: The huge Zouk, 17 Jiak Kim Street, is considered Singapore’s pioneer clubbing institution, recently hosting notable DJs such as Sacha, Paul Oakenfold and John Digweed plus international bands, and predominantly attracting a young trendy crowd. Within its walls is the mellower Velvet Underground, to which the cool, mature clubbers flock, and Phuture, a small club with breakbeats and hip-hop. One of the slickest, swankiest clubs in the Mohamed Sultan Road stretch is dbl-O (pronounced double-oh), 11 Unity St, Robertson Walk, with its high ceilings, three bar areas and excellent sound system, music varies from dance hits, retro and Top 40s on various nights of the week. Comedy: The best known venue for comedy is 1Nite Stand, 3A River Valley Road, a bar and comedy club hosting guest comics from around the world. Boom Boom Boom, 130 Amoy Street, Far East Square, is famous for its drag queen host, Kumar, and other cross-dressing comics – and reputedly the best Singapore Sling in town. Karaoke: As in the rest of Asia, karaoke remains an inordinately popular evening’s entertainment. Kabuki Deluxe Nite-Club, 15 Cairnhill Road, has no private rooms but audiences can be entertained with the efforts of others. JJ Mahoney’s, 58 Duxton Road, has karaoke sessions in between the live music. Live Music: Harry’s Bar, 28 Boat Quay, housed in a renovated shop-house facing the river, is famous for its great live jazz, and popular with Singapore’s power brokers and bankers. With an equally great reputation for its in-house band, Bar None, basement Marriot Hotel, 320 Orchard Road, attracts a mix of tourists, expats and locals, and is packed at weekends. Zouk (see Clubs) is the best venue for big names, and has recently hosted Kylie and M People. A friendly bar with live R&B and classic rock, Crazy Elephant, Clark Quay Trader’s Market, 3E River Valley Road, is an informal venue which has attracted some music greats. City Statistics Location: Singapore state, South-East Asia. Country dialling code: 65; but note no city code, just 8 digits to follow, always beginning with ‘6’. Population: 3,486,900 million (permanent residents); 4,240,300 (total population). Ethnic mix: 76.7% Chinese, 14% Malay, 7.9% Indian, 1.4% other. Religion: 42.5% Buddhist (Chinese), 14.9% Muslim, 14.6% Christian, 8.5% Tao, 4.1% Hindu, 0.6% other, 14.8% no religion. Time zone: GMT + 8. Electricity: 220-240 volts AC, 50Hz; square three-pin plugs, or two-pin with adapter. Average January temp: 26ºC (79ºF). Average July temp: 28ºC (82ºF). Annual rainfall: 2,358mm (93inches); rainy season Dec-Mar and Jun-Sep. Special Events Ponggol, Hindu Harvest Festival, mid-Jan, various locations Lunar New Year Light-Up, colourful display to celebrate the Lunar New Year, mid-Jan/early Feb, Chinatown and various locations Chinese New Year, late Jan/early Feb, Chinatown and various locations Hari Raya Haji, celebrating the return of pilgrims from Mecca, late Jan (10 days earlier each year), various locations Singapore River Raft Race, a race with rafts made from recycled rubbish, Feb, Singapore River Singapore International Festival for Children, two-week festival, Mar, various locations Birthday of Lao Zi, one-week Taoist festival to worship founder, Mar, throughout the city Singapore International Comedy Festival, two-week comedy festival, mid-late Mar, various venues Singapore Fashion Festival, two-weeks late Mar-early Apr, various venues, especially shopping malls Singapore Food Festival, four-week festival (website: www.singaporefoodfestival.com.sg), late Mar-Apr, various locations International Latin Festival, two-day festival with music and stalls, early Apr, Fort Canning Qing Ming Festival, Chinese community gives thanks to the ancestors, early Apr, various locations Singapore International Film Festival, two-week film festival (website: www.filmfest.org.sg), mid-Apr Singapore Rugby Sevens (website: www.sru.org.sg), Apr, National Stadium Vesak Day, commemorating Lord Buddha’s entry into Nirvana, mid-May, all Buddhist temples Singapore Airlines International Cup, world’s richest horse race (website: www.turfclub.com.sg), mid-May, Turf Club Singapore Arts Festival, three-week festival of international dance, music and drama (website: www.singaporeartsfest.com), late May-mid Jun, various locations Great Singapore Sale, annual two-week shopping bonanza, (website: www.greatsingaporesale.com.sg), late May-Jun, Orchard Road and various locations Starlight Cinema Festival, one-month season of outdoor screenings, (website; www.starlightcinema.com) from mid-June, Fort Canning Green Singapore Dragon Boat Festival, dragon boat racing which commemorates the search for Chinese poet and patriot, Qu Yuan, (website: www.sdba.org.sg) mid-Jun, starts Marina Promenade International Piano Festival, (website: www.pianofestival.com.sg) Jul, Victoria Concert Hall Festival of the Hungry Ghost, month-long Taoist festival, with street banquets and operas, from late Jul/early Aug, various locations National Day Celebrations, (website: www.ndp.org.sg), parade, 9 Aug, National Stadium and various locations WOMAD Singapore, festival with international performers, (website: www.womadsingapore.com), late Aug-early Sep, Fort Canning Park Lantern Festival, late Aug-late Sep, Chinese Garden International Guitar Festival, early Sep, various venues Mid-Autumn Festival, week-long festival celebrating the year’s fullest moon, Sep, Chinatown and various locations Birthday of the Monkey God, procession, late Sep, Temple of the Monkey God, Seng Poh Road Nine Emperor Gods Festival, images of the nine gods paraded in sedan chairs, mid-Oct, Nine Emperor Gods Temple Deepavali Light-Up, annual celebration features a three-week festival, early Oct/Nov, Little India Hari Raya Light-Up, Muslim families celebrate Hari Raya Puasa, the end of Ramadan, early Nov 2005 (10 days earlier every year), Geylang Serai Singapore River Buskers Festival, mid-Nov, Singapore River Christmas Light-Up, festive lights for Christmas throughout the city, mid-Nov-Dec Singapore International Marathon, (website: www.singaporemarathon.com), early Dec, starts National Stadium New Year’s Eve, countdown party, 1 Jan, Suntec City Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: S$1.50 33cl bottle of beer: S$3 Financial Times newspaper: S$4 36-exposure colour film: S$5.20 City-centre bus ticket: S$0.80-1.80 Adult football ticket: From S$60 Three-course restaurant meal with wine/beer: From S$45 1 Singapore Dollar (S$1) = £0.34; US$0.59; C$0.69; A$0.77; ¬0.49 Currency conversion rates as of October 2005 |
