World City Guide

Mini Guide of Salt Lake City

City Overview

Nestled below the Wasatch mountain range, on the western branch of the Rocky Mountains, Salt Lake City rises out of a flat, 1,200m-high (4,000ft) basin, its bright lights twinkling against the dark forested slopes. It is Utah’s largest city and one of the fastest growing metropolitan areas in the United States of America. Barely 150 years ago, this land was remote, unwanted territory, visited only by roaming bands of Ute Indians. But when Brigham Young, leader of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS), first set eyes on it, he declared: ‘This is the right place.’ Young had led a 148-strong group of Mormon pioneers halfway across America, in search of a place where they could practise their religion without persecution. The Great Salt Lake basin was their Promised Land and they set about building their mother city in 1847. New Mormon emigrants flooded in and the town soon prospered as a supply stop for the California gold rush of 1849-50.

The story of those early years is a fascinating one, best discovered in Temple Square, which surrounds the historic Tabernacle and Temple and remains the heart of the city today. From here, the city spreads out in a perfect grid of square blocks of 14-hectares (35-acres), constructed to the precise plans of the Church’s founder, Joseph Smith. This pattern and the spacious streets (built 40m (132ft) wide, so that a wagon team of four oxen could turn around) make the city easy to navigate.

Beyond Temple Square, the Downtown area is an aggregate of historic sites, traditional architecture and modern commercial buildings. Much of its character stems from the early 20th century, when the State Capitol building and the grand Victorian homes of the Capitol Hill district were built. The past 30 years have seen much renovation and investment in the Downtown area and Salt Lake City saw in the millennium with a new light-rail service that harks back to the electric trolley cars that once brought people into the city centre (they were phased out in 1941).

The resourcefulness of the early pioneers still characterises the city today. Salt Lake City has seen phenomenal economic growth in recent years and is considered one of the best business environments in the country. It has one of the highest concentrations of software, biomedical and high-technology firms and is also a bustling convention centre. The Mormon religion is still the dominant social, political and economic force in Salt Lake City. But with the influx of new industries and relocation of personnel from other states, non-Mormons are no longer so greatly outnumbered.

Despite its growth, Salt Lake City retains a small-town atmosphere. It is pleasant rather than exciting, relaxed and friendly rather than vibrant, although it still offers plenty of activities to repay a few days’ stay. Shopping centres, brew pubs and ethnic restaurants lend an increasingly cosmopolitan touch. There are good museums and cultural attractions but outdoor recreation is perhaps a greater draw for visitors and natives alike. The city’s namesake, the Great Salt Lake, lies just to the west. Seven canyons snake up into the mountains from the city’s edges and many state and national parks, rivers, forests and recreation areas are within an easy day’s drive. The dry, sunny climate (never too extreme) of hot summers and snowy winters is conducive to a variety of sports, including hiking, mountaineering, rafting and fishing. In particular, Salt Lake City is the gateway to a number of top-quality ski resorts in the nearby mountains. This brought the city international recognition as host of the 2002 Winter Olympic Games. Utah Olympic Park and other sites of sporting achievement provide a lasting legacy to the city and its visitors.

Getting There By Air

Salt Lake City International Airport (SLC)
Tel: (801) 575 2400.
Website: www.slcairport.com

Salt Lake City International Airport is located just 6km (4 miles) west of the city centre. 17 airlines operate from the airport, with over 400 daily departures to 92 cities throughout the United States and Canada. The airport, which served 18.3 million passengers in 2004, is ranked 26th busiest in the United States and 51st busiest in the world.

Major airlines: Salt Lake City is served by 17 airlines. It is the third largest hub for Delta Air Lines (tel: (800) 221 1212; website: www.delta.com), which operates direct international flights. Other major carriers include American Airlines, American West, Continental, Frontier Airlines, JetBlue Airways, Northwest Airlines, Sky West, Southwest Airlines and United Airlines.

Approximate flight times to Salt Lake City: From London is 11 hours; from New York is 4 hours 30 minutes; from Los Angeles is 2 hours; from Toronto is 5 hours and from Sydney is 16 hours 30 minutes.

Airport facilities: These include foreign exchange, banks and ATMs, tourist information counter, restaurants and snack bars, gift shops, coin-operated lockers, facilities for infant and small child care. Car hire companies Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Hertz and National are located on the lowest level of the parking terrace (see Getting Around).

Business facilities: The Wayport Laptop Lane business centre (tel: (801) 519 5060; website: www.wayport.net/laptoplane) is located in terminal two. Services and facilities include telephones, desktop PCs, high-speed Internet access, printing, copying and faxing and package shipping. In addition to the business facilities available at Laptop Lane, there is language translation assistance at the airport information desks and faxes can be sent at Zion’s Bank in terminal two. There are stamp machines and mailboxes in each terminal.

Transport to the city: Downtown Salt Lake is only a 15- or 20-minute drive from the airport. A one-way taxi fare is approximately US$15. Many hotels offer complimentary airport shuttle service. Buses, limousines and shuttle companies provide transportation into the city as well as throughout the valley and to area ski resorts. For more information, call the Ground Transportation Desk on (801) 575 2477.

The Express Shuttle (tel: (800) 397 0773; website: www.expressshuttle.com) is a convenient door-to-door airport shuttle, which operates on request and meets all flights. Tickets should be reserved at least 24 hours in advance, if possible (booking is open 24 hours daily). There are counters in the baggage claim area at both terminals, marked Ground Transportation Desk.

One of several companies providing shuttle service to ski resorts in the area, as well as to the Salt Lake Valley is All Resort Express (tel: (435) 649 3999 or (800) 457 9457; website: www.allresort.com), which also operates a request service, meeting all flights.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

America has an excellent system of Interstate Highways (I-1) and State Highways (Hwy-1), as well as smaller country roads with the letter of the state preceding the road number (U-1 in Utah). Driving in the United States is on the right. Speed limits are generally 55-65mph (88-104kph) on highways and 30mph (48kph) in towns but can vary and the signs should be checked. The legal driving age in Utah is 16 years. For UK nationals, a full UK driving licence is sufficient. Other nationalities are required to have an International Driving Permit, which must be accompanied by a full driving licence from their home country. Basic insurance is mandatory.

The wearing of seatbelts is mandatory by law in Utah. Children must be restrained in car seats or seatbelts. Utah has strict laws against drinking and driving and a blood alcohol content of 0.08% or more is cause for arrest and a criminal charge. Visitors should be aware that alcohol has a greater effect at higher altitudes.

The American Automobile Association (tel: (800) 541 9902; website: www.aaa.com) provides information and might offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries.

Emergency breakdown service:
AAA (800) AAA HELP or 222 4357.

Routes to the city: Main routes into Salt Lake City include Interstate 15 (I-15), which runs north–south on to Las Vegas, Interstate 80 (I-80), which runs east–west to San Francisco and Denver (connecting with I-25 South at Laramie, Wyoming), and US Highway 89, which runs north–south to Provo and Ogden, Utah.

Approximate driving times to Salt Lake City: From Las Vegas, Nevada – 7 hours; Denver, Colorado – 10 hours 30 minutes; San Francisco, California – 14 hours; Los Angeles and San Diego, California – 12 hours; Ogden – 45 minutes; Provo – 1 hour.

Coach services: Salt Lake City is served by the Rocky Mountain Trailways & Salt Lake Express (tel: (800) 356 9796; website: http://trailways.bluedepot.com), part of the National Trailways Transportation System. Most bus companies use the Greyhound Terminal, 160 West South Temple Boulevard. There are several buses per day, which travel east to Denver, Colorado, west to San Francisco, California, north to Portland, Oregon and Seattle, Washington and south to Las Vegas, Nevada and Los Angeles, California.

Getting There By Rail

Amtrak (tel: (800) 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com) is the national rail service provider, serving Salt Lake City. Amtrak services are comfortable and generally reliable, although it is always a good idea for travellers to confirm reservations and check train times prior to departure.

Salt Lake City Station is located Downtown, at 340 South 600 West (tel: (800) 872 7245); facilities are basic but include snack bars and toilets. Tickets are available for purchase at the station, online through Amtrak or reserved by telephone and picked up at the station (photo ID is required).

Rail services: The California Zephyr, which operates daily, is a splendid scenic route between Salt Lake City and Denver, Colorado (journey time – 15 hours), with a service east to Chicago (journey time – 35 hours), west to Reno (journey time – 10 hours), Nevada (journey time – 16 hours) and San Francisco (journey time – 18 hours).

Transport to the city: The station is fairly central (approximately a 15-minute walk to Temple Square) and taxis are available.

Getting Around

Public Transport
As with most cities in the USA, driving is the main form of transportation. However, Salt Lake City’s light rail service, TRAX, along with a good bus network, has helped to ease traffic congestion and to improve travel between the suburbs and the city centre. Both services are operated by Utah Transit Authority (tel: (801) 743 3882; website: www.rideuta.com). Together, they provide more than 100 different routes throughout the metropolitan region. There are also services to nearby cities such as Ogden and Provo.

Most buses (tel: (801) 287 4636) run 0600-2400 on weekdays and 0700-2400 on Saturdays. There is limited Sunday service on some regular routes.

TRAX, which stands for Transit Express, began a light rail service in late 1999. The 24km (15-mile) line runs between 10000 South in Sandy and the Delta Center in Downtown Salt Lake. There are 16 stations, each decorated with original artwork. The University Line, an additional east–west leg, intersects the main line at Main Street station and connects Downtown with the University of Utah. Trains stop at the stations every 10 to 30 minutes (0530-2300 Mon to Thur, 0530 to 0100 on Fri and Sat, and from 0930 to 2130 on Sun).

Schedules can be accessed online (website: www.rideuta.com/schedulesandmaps) and are also available at Visitor Information Centers and other public facilities. There are 11 free Park & Ride lots located near the stations.

The standard one-way fare within the valley for both buses and TRAX is US$1.40. A large section of the Downtown area, including Temple Square and the area just west of the State Capitol, is a fare-free zone and there is no charge if commuters or visitors enter and exit a bus or TRAX between the designated streets. Tickets are available for purchase from vending machines or on boarding the bus. These are valid for two hours from the time of purchase and can be used as often as necessary on both buses and light rail.

An All Day Pass, which is valid for unlimited rides on buses and TRAX light rail, is a bargain at US$3.50. Day passes are also available from vending machines or from Pass Sales outlets at supermarkets and other retailers. The latter are the most convenient, because they are self-validating and can be purchased in quantity and used as needed.

During the winter, a special ski bus operates to Little Cottonwood Canyon, Alta, Brighton and Sundance ski resorts; the US$6 pass is also valid on TRAX and local buses.

Taxis
Several taxi companies in Salt Lake City offer a 24-hour service, including City Cab (tel: (801) 363 5550), Yellow Cab Company (tel: (801) 521 2100 or (800) 826 4746) and Ute Cab Co (tel: (801) 359 7788). Most people telephone for service but cabs can also be hailed in the street and there are taxi stands at hotels and other locations around the city. All taxis are metered and it is customary to tip taxi drivers 15%.

Driving in the City
With wide streets laid out in an easy-to-follow grid system, driving in Salt Lake City poses few problems. The grid starts at the Meridian Marker at the intersection of Main Street and South Temple. From here, streets are numbered in increments of 100 and located by grid co-ordinates (South or North (of South Temple) and East or West (of Main Street)) for example, 138 West 300 South.

A good system of freeways bypasses the city centre and provides quick access to the canyons and suburban areas. Many scenic routes are quickly accessible from the city but drivers should take care on steep and winding mountain roads.

Parking lots cost US$3-5 per day, while mall lots are more expensive at about US$10, although stores will provide validation for free parking. Parking meters cost 25 cents for 20 minutes to one hour of parking time. Meters are free after 1800 and allow for two hours of free parking on Saturday. There are 11 free Park & Ride lots located near the light rail stations (see Public Transport).

Car Hire
Service providers include Avis (tel: (801) 575 2847 or (800) 331 1212; website: www.avis.com), Dollar (tel: (801) 575 2580 or (800) 800 4000; website: www.dollar.com), Hertz (tel: (801) 575 2683 or (800) 654 3131; website: www.hertz.com), National (tel: (801) 575 2277 or (800) 227 7368; website: www.nationalcar.com) and Thrifty (tel: (801) 265 6677 or (800) 847 4389; website: www.thrifty.com). Most major hotels will also arrange car hire on their guests’ behalf. Rates begin at approximately US$30 a day.

The minimum age to hire a car is generally 25 years. For UK nationals, a full UK driving licence is sufficient. Other nationalities are required to have an International Driving Permit accompanied by a full driving licence from their home country. Rates generally include mandatory liability insurance, although visitors should always enquire whether rates quoted include Collision Damage insurance, as this is not automatically included in American car hire rates. Drivers should also check whether the rate includes unlimited mileage, which is recommended if excursions are planned for outside the city.

Car hire companies generally provide a number to call should problems arise, otherwise drivers should call the AAA emergency breakdown line (see Getting There By Road).

Bicycle Hire
Cycling is popular in Salt Lake City and the surrounding region, with mountain biking trails in the nearby mountains. Utah Ski and Golf, 134 West 600 South (tel: (801) 355 9088 or (800) 858 5221; website: www.utahskigolf.com), offers bicycle hire in the Downtown area, with three other locations around the city.

Business

Business Etiquette
Informal business dress is the norm, although suits are customary for sales calls and when meeting business associates for the first time. Business cards are exchanged before or after a meeting. Working hours are generally Monday to Friday 0800-1700.

Visitors should be sensitive to the conservative climate the Mormon faith has brought about. Drinking is tolerated but is a sure sign of an outsider. Smoking is frowned upon by almost everyone, due to the health-conscious environment. Family values are strong and, when entertaining clients, business lunches are preferred over business dinners, as after-work hours are considered family time. A business visitor who is invited to a client’s home should bring candy or flowers, rather than wine or liquor, as an appropriate gift, although these are not expected.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Salt Lake City’s highlights include historical and religious sights in the city centre and the scenic attractions, pioneer relics and recreational activities on offer in the Salt Lake Valley, canyons and nearby mountains. The compact Downtown area is the best place for a visitor to start exploring. Within a small radius from Temple Square, where the famous Mormon Tabernacle and the six-spire granite Temple are located, there are several historical sites dating from the pioneer era, along with shopping and cultural venues. Among the city’s museums and galleries are the Salt Lake Art Center, 20 South West Temple, Downtown and the Utah State Historical Society in the Historic Rio Grande Depot.

Beyond Downtown, other Central Salt Lake highlights include the Marmalade District of historic homes, the Utah State Capitol, This is The Place Heritage Park and Old Deseret Village, Trolley Square and several museums. The Great Salt Lake after which the city was named, lies just 27km (17 miles) west and is a ‘must-see’ sight for all first-time visitors.

Tourist Information
Salt Lake Convention & Visitors Bureau
90 South West Temple
Tel: (801) 521 2822 or (800) 541 4955. Fax: (801) 534 4927.
E-mail: slcvb@saltlake.org
Website: www.visitsaltlake.com
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1800, Sat and Sun 0900-1700 (summer); Mon-Fri 0800-1700, Sat and Sun 0900-1700 (winter).

Other visitor information centres are located at the Salt Lake City airport (open daily 0900-2100) and Council Hall, 300 North State Street (open Mon-Fri 0800-1700, Sat-Sun 1000-1700).

Passes
There are no sightseeing passes available.

Key Attractions

Temple Square
Surrounded by high white walls, the 14-hectare (35-acre) site where the Mormon settlers established their first Utah community is the heart and soul of Salt Lake City. It contains the Tabernacle and Temple (see below), the Assembly Hall, where there are free weekend concerts and two visitor centres, both of which contain displays and presentations on the Mormon faith. The square contains several memorials and statues, such as the Handcart Monument and the Seagull Monument. The latter commemorates a flock of California gulls, which saved the early pioneers from a plague of crickets that threatened to destroy their crops. Mormon guides offer visitors free 45-minute tours of the sites, starting every few minutes at the flagpole.

Directly opposite Temple Square is the restored Joseph Smith Memorial Building, where a free film, Legacy, telling the story of the early pioneers, is screened. Beside it stands the Brigham Young Monument, which honours the pioneer LDS Church leader.

The square is bordered by North Temple, 300 North, South Temple, West Temple and State Street
Tel: (800) 537 9703.
Website: www.visittemplesquare.com

Mormon Tabernacle
Salt Lake City’s most famous building is one of the most fascinating structures in the United States. The oval Tabernacle, begun in 1863, took 12 years to complete. Built as a gathering place for the community, it is capped by a massive domed roof rising 20m (65ft) high. Brigham Young is said to have hit on the idea for its unusual design while contemplating a hollowed-out eggshell sliced lengthwise. He wanted the roof to be self-supporting, with no pillars to block the congregation’s views, so bridge-building techniques were used to construct arched lattice trusses as the main supports. The huge beams of the dome were bent into shape with steam and weighted at both ends. It still ranks among the largest timber-roof frames in the world. Equally impressive is the Tabernacle’s simple, unadorned interior. Because hardwood was not available, the pioneer craftsmen painted the wood grain on the walls and benches to resemble oak.

The building is home to the world famous Mormon Tabernacle Choir, which was formed in 1847. Its acoustics are so remarkable that a pin drop rings clearly throughout the hall. The 11,000-pipe organ features golden pipes made of hand-carved round wood staves. The choir gives free performances inside the Tabernacle twice a week, one of which is a broadcast of its weekly radio programme, ‘Music and the Spoken Word’. There are also daily organ recitals.

Temple Square
Tel: (801) 240 2534 (Temple Square Visitor Center).
Free admission.

Mormon Temple
Towering above Temple Square, the Mormon Temple is one of the most striking sights of Salt Lake City. The tallest of its six spires reaches 64m (210ft) and is topped by a statue of the Angel Moroni, which is made of hammered copper and covered with a thick overlay of gold leaf. Construction began in 1853, and the temple took 40 years to complete. Enormous blocks of granite were hauled by oxen for 24km (15 miles) from a quarry in Big Cottonwood Canyon. The foundation walls are 4.8m (16ft) thick and 4.8m (16ft) deep. The temple is closed to the public and is only accessible to practising Mormons during religious ceremonies.

Temple Square
Tel: (801) 240 2534 (Temple Square Visitor Center).
Free admission, Mormons only.

Beehive House
The first Mormons called their land ‘Deseret’, which means ‘honeybee’, a symbol of industriousness – the beehive is Utah’s state symbol today. The Beehive House, built in 1854, was the home of LDS leader and territorial governor, Brigham Young, until he died in 1877. This simple, white house, with its smart green shutters and long verandahs, was then the finest in the city. Meticulously restored with period furnishings, artefacts and antiques, it houses a small museum concerning Young’s life. The ornate reception room is the highlight of the free guided tours that run every 10 minutes, including a tour of the kitchen, bedrooms and children’s playroom. Eagle Gate, the original entrance to Young’s property, stands just to the east of the Beehive House. The 23m (76ft) arch is topped by the statue of an eagle weighing 1,814kg (4,000lbs). Young had several wives and many children and the Lion House next door was built in 1855, to provide additional space for his growing family.

67 East South Temple
Tel: (801) 240 2671.
Free admission.

Family History Library
This library, owned by the Mormon Church, contains the largest collection of genealogical information in the world. It includes 2.4 million rolls of microfilmed records holding two billion names from all around the world and hundreds of thousands of microfiche and books, with more historical documents added each year. Most records date from the mid-16th century to 1910. Visitors are instructed on how to research their own family roots.

35 North West Temple
Tel: (801) 240 2584 or (800) 346 6044.
Website: www.familysearch.org
Free admission.

Pioneer Memorial Museum
Run by the Daughters of Utah Pioneers and dedicated to historical memorabilia, the Pioneer Memorial Museum is one of the best in the state. Its 38 rooms contain furniture, textiles, a doll collection, toys, photographs and household items from the days of the pioneers. It also contains the original eagle that once perched on top of Eagle Gate. Among the historic vehicles in the carriage house is a 1902 fire engine.

300 North Main Street
Tel: (801) 532 6479.
Website: www.dupinternational.org
Free admission, donations welcome.

Utah State Capitol
Built in 1915, the State Capitol building is one of the finest examples of the Renaissance Revival style in the country. This Salt Lake City landmark sits on top of a hill overlooking the city. Its stately walls of Utah granite are framed with 24 Corinthian columns and topped by a gleaming copper dome. The interior rotunda is lined with Georgian marble and paintings illustrating Utah history.

Capitol Hill, northern end of State Street
Tel: (801) 538 3000 or 1563 (tour information).
Website: www.utah.gov/capitolbuilding/
Free admission.

Cathedral of the Madeleine
This beautiful and recently restored Rhenish Gothic cathedral was begun in 1900, by Bishop Lawrence Scanlon, the first bishop of Salt Lake. It features Venetian mosaics and other ornate artwork, Tennessee and Utah marble and outstanding stained-glass windows.

331 East South Temple
Tel: (801) 328 8941.
Website: www.saltlakecathedral.org
Free admission.

Utah Museum of Fine Arts
Set in a handsome new building on the University of Utah campus, which opened in June 2001, the Utah Museum of Fine Arts contains some 17,000 pieces of art. Exhibits from Europe, Africa, Asia and Latin America are on display along with American works, including a collection of antiquities dating back to 3000BC. There is also a contemporary art gallery and sculpture garden. The museum stages world-class temporary exhibitions.

Marcia and John Price Museum Building, 410 Campus Center Drive, University of Utah
Tel: (801) 581 7332.
Website: www.utah.edu/umfa
Free admission.

Hansen Planetarium
The Hansen Planetarium has a space science museum, with interactive exhibits, an Exhibit Hall with models of a lunar hemisphere, a relief globe and a Foucault pendulum. The planetarium puts on daily star shows that simulate trips to the planets, as well as laser/music concerts on the subject of space.

15 South State Street
Tel: (801) 456 7827 (STAR).
Website: www.hansenplanetarium.net
Free admission to the museum and exhibits, charge for star/laser shows.

This is The Place Heritage Park
This park commemorates the place where the first Mormon pioneers ended their 2,080km (1,300-mile) trek across America. It is named after This Is the Place Monument, erected in 1947, to commemorate the centennial of Brigham Young’s decision to settle there. The park contains Old Deseret Village, a recreation of a pioneer village from the mid-19th century, with reconstructed general store, bank and other buildings and actors in period costume demonstrating ways of life from the pioneer era. Brigham Young’s original farmhouse, renovated with period furnishings, is also situated here.

2601 East Sunnyside Avenue at 800 South
Tel: (801) 582 1847.
Website: www.thisistheplace.org
Free admission to the park, charge for Old Deseret Village.

Further Distractions

Wheeler Historic Farm
This historic dairy farm is still run with manual labour and animals, just as it was in the 1890s. Tours of the farmhouse take place every half an hour and demonstrations of period farming techniques take place in summer. Visitors can help with the duties, such as gathering eggs or milking the cows. Depending on the season, there are also wagon or sleigh rides and country dances.

6351 South 900 East
Tel: (801) 264 2241.
Website: www.wheelerfarm.com
Free admission.

Marmalade District
A triangle of historic homes, built by settlers in the late 19th century, lies just west of the State Capitol. The district and many of its streets are named for the fruit-bearing trees planted by the early residents. There are no specific houses open to the public but the area makes for a pleasant stroll.

Bounded by 300 North Street (south), 500 North Street (north), Center Street (west) and Quince Street (east).

Thanksgiving Point Institute
Located 44 km (28 miles) south of the city, the 283-hectare (700-acre) Thanksgiving Point features the largest botanical garden in North America, surrounded by an award-winning golf course. There is also a discovery garden and farm country animal park for children. Adjacent to the Institute is the North American Museum of Ancient Life, the world’s largest dinosaur museum, with hundreds of fossils of prehistoric creatures, ranging from prehistoric insects to flying reptiles. The Grand Exhibit Hall contains 60 dinosaur skeleton displays, including a 34-metre (110-foot) long Supersaurus. The six-storey Mammoth Screen Theater shows spectacular natural history and science films.

2929-3003 North Thanksgiving Way, Lehi
Tel: (801) 768 2300 or (888) 672 6040.
Website: www.thanksgivingpoint.com
Free admission, charge for the museum, theatre, gardens and farm.

North American Museum of Ancient Life
Tel: (801) 766 5000 (museum).

Fox Family Farm
Tel: (801) 768 4951 (booking).

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
A self-guided walk of the Downtown, starting at the Visitor Information Center, 90 South West Temple, runs past the Salt Palace Convention Center to Temple Square. Just east of the square are historic landmarks such as the Beehive House and Eagle Gate, as well as modern attractions such as the Hansen Planetarium.

Bus Tours
Gray Line (tel: (801) 534 1001 or (800) 210 5637; website: www.saltlakecitytours.org) take in the city’s finest sights.

Other Tours
Carriage for Hire (tel: (801) 363 8687; website: www.carriageforhire.net) offers half-hour city tours by horse-drawn carriage. These cost US$45, rising to US$85 for just over an hour. Carriages are allowed anywhere in the city and drivers can pick up passengers and drop them off at nearby hotels and restaurants. The half-hour City Ride covers Downtown, taking in the Capitol Theatre, Galivan Plaza, the County Courthouse and one of the oldest Main Streets in the West.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Great Salt Lake: No visit to the region is complete without a glimpse of the Great Salt Lake (tel: (801) 250 1898) that gave this city its name. Several times saltier than the ocean, with a salinity as high as 27% at times, it is the largest lake west of the Mississippi River. In the late 19th century, it was lined with fashionable resorts. Today, only the shabby Salt Air Palace gives testimony to its former glory days. Floating in the lake and picnicking are popular activities. The Great Salt Lake is open to the public daily 0800-dusk and admission is free. The lake is located 27km (17 miles) west of Salt Lake City and is reached from exit 104 on I-80.

Park City: Utah’s largest ski area, headquarters of the US Ski Team, is just 51km (32 miles) east of Salt Lake City via I-80. It was a former silver mining boomtown in the late 19th century and the historic buildings of the central Downtown area are a delightful contrast to the modern condos of the ski area. Locals in period costume give walking tours in the summer. The art galleries along Park Avenue and Main Street are also good for browsing. Summer and winter recreational activities are plentiful. The Park City Visitor Information Center, 1826 Olympic Parkway (tel: (435) 658 9616; website: www.parkcityinfo.com), is open daily 0900-1800.

For a Whole Day

Dinosaur National Monument: Covering 842 square km (325 square miles) in Utah and Colorado, the Dinosaur National Monument (tel: (970) 374 3000; website: www.nps.gov/dino) contains the largest quarry of bones from the Jurassic Period ever found. A Visitor Centre (open daily 0800-1630) has been built over the quarry, where the fossilised dinosaur skeletons can be seen in situ. The dinosaur fossils lie on the Utah side of the park, east of Vernal and north of Jensen, about 296km (185 miles) from Salt Lake City via Highway 40.

The main visitor centre is open daily 0800-1800 (summer) and Monday-Friday 0800-1630 (winter). The park itself is open from sunrise to sunset and entrance is US$10 per vehicle. The area is also popular for whitewater rafting on the Green and Yampa rivers, while the Colorado side has miles of hiking trails and scenic canyons.

Sport

Shopping

Salt Lake City has literally hundreds of retail stores selling everything from handicrafts to high fashion. Many are within walking distance of Downtown hotels. Opposite Temple Square is Crossroads Plaza, with an arcade, theatres and restaurants, as well as shops and department stores. In the adjacent block is the ZCMI Center, which stands for Zion Cooperative Mercantile Institution – it was founded by Brigham Young, making it possibly the country’s oldest department store. The Gateway, an open-air, upmarket shopping arcade, situated west of Temple Square (website: www.shopthegateway.com) is Salt Lake City’s smartest venue (and Utah's largest open air shopping district) with the Olympic Legacy Plaza and a massive water fountain synchronised to music. One of the city’s favourite shopping centres is Trolley Square, 600 South at 700 East, a few blocks from Downtown. Speciality shops, art galleries, restaurants and theatres are housed in renovated trolley car barns. South Towne Center, 10600 South and State Street, is Utah’s largest mall, with over 150 stores, while Fashion Place, 6191 South State Street, is Salt Lake City’s more upmarket mall.

Mormon Handicraft, West South Temple, sells beautiful quilts and other speciality items unique to the state. Bentley Square, Crossroads Plaza, also sells quilts, dolls, home decoration items, jewellery and other gifts by Utah artisans. Located 40km (25 miles) south of Downtown, Gardner Historic Village consists of rustic shops and restaurants set around a restored 1877 flour mill, with items such as antique lace and blacksmith crafts for sale. There are no major outdoor markets in Salt Lake City.

Most stores are open daily and general shopping hours are Monday to Saturday 0900-2100 and Sunday 1100-1700. Sales tax is 6.6%, which foreign visitors are able to reclaim upon departure. Global Refund (tel: (800) 566 9828; website: www.globalrefund.com) provides further information.

Culture

Salt Lake City’s founders made it their mandate to foster the arts and that legacy continues with world-class performing arts companies in music, dance and theatre. There is also a whole host of museums and art galleries.

CitySearch Utah (website: www.utah.citysearch.com) provides an on-line guide to events, while the Salt Lake City Tribune (website: www.sltrib.com) has daily listings. City Weekly (website: www.slweekly.com) and The Event are free weekly papers with extensive reviews and listings.

Smith’s TIX (tel: (801) 467 8499 or (800) 888 8499; website: www.smithstix.com) is the most accessible ticket agency, with branches located in Smith’s grocery stores throughout the city.

Music: The Mormon Tabernacle Choir is famous throughout the world and visitors can attend weekly performances (see Key Attractions). The Utah Symphony (tel: (801) 533 5626; website: www.utahsymphony.org) stages regular concerts at Abravanel Hall, 123 West South Temple (tel: (801) 355 2787). The Utah Opera Company (tel: (801) 736 6868; website: www.utahopera.org) stages four operas a year featuring internationally known artists at the Capitol Theatre, 50 West 200 South (tel: (801) 355 2787). In addition to these venues, many performing arts companies stage productions at the Rose Wagner Performing Arts Center, 138 West 300 South (tel: (801) 355 2787).

Theatre: The Pioneer Theatre Company (tel: (801) 581 6961; website: www.pioneertheatre.org) performs classic and contemporary plays and musicals, from September to May, in their theatre at the University of Utah campus. Also located at the university is the Babcock Theatre, which stages more experimental productions. Salt Lake Acting Company, 168 West 500 North (tel: (801) 363 0526/7522; website: www.saltlakeactingcompany.org), is a professional theatre company producing year-round plays, including regional premieres of Broadway plays. Hale Centre Theatre, 3333 South Decker Lake Drive (tel: (801) 984 9000; website: http://halecentretheatre.org), puts on musicals, comedies and classics for family entertainment.

Dance: Ballet West (tel: (801) 323 6900; website: www.balletwest.org) is considered one of the country’s premier dance companies. Its repertoire includes classic ballets as well as original works, performed at the Capitol Theatre, 50 West 200 South (tel: (801) 355 2787). The Repertory Dance Theatre (tel: (801) 534 1000; website: www.rdtutah.org), founded in 1966, was the first professional modern dance repertory company established outside New York. Also widely renowned is the Ririe-Woodbury Dance Company (tel: (801) 297 4241; website: www.ririewoodbury.com), with innovative and often humourous dance productions. Both perform at the Rose Wagner Performing Arts Center, 138 West 300 South (tel: (801) 355 2787).

Film: Sundance Institute, a non-profit arts organisation dedicated to the development of independent filmmakers, which is run by Robert Redford and located in the nearby mountains, has an office at Suite 5002, 307 West 200 South (tel: (801) 328 3456; website: www.sundance.org). Two central mainstream cinemas are Broadway Center Theater, 111 East Broadway 300 South (tel: (801) 321 0310) and Regency Theatre Trolley Square, 602 East 500 South (tel: (801) 746 1555; website: http://regencymovies.com). Tower Theatre, 876 East 900 South (tel: (801) 321 0310; website: www.towertheater.com), not only shows arthouse, independent and foreign films but also hosts an annual Rocky Horror Picture Show (1975) night in October.

The US TV series, Touched by an Angel, is filmed in Salt Lake City. The chase scene in How the Grinch Stole Christmas (2000) was filmed in Big Cottonwood Canyon, outside the city. Scenes from Desperate Hours (1990) and A Life Less Ordinary (1997) were also filmed in Salt Lake City.

Literary Notes: For over a century writers have marvelled at the Great Salt Lake. In City of the Saints (1861), Richard Burton called it ‘that inland briny sea, which apparently has no business there’. In Roughing It (1872), Mark Twain joked that Salt Lake City was so healthy that its one doctor was regularly arrested for having no visible means of support.

Robert Gottlieb and Peter Wiley offered an insight into the politics and economic strength of the Mormons with America’s Saints, published in the 1980s. Local writers include Tom Roulstone, whose One Against the Wilderness (1996) is a work of historical fiction that chronicles the life of a woman in the mid-19th century, as she travels west with the LDS, and Angela K Black, who wrote Bitterbrush (1994), a mystery story set in the Wasatch Mountains overlooking Salt Lake City.

Nightlife

Despite the generally conservative atmosphere of Salt Lake City, there are plenty of night spots for music and entertainment, from country western line-dancing to jazz, blues and rock ‘n’ roll. These are not focused on any particular district and are generally spread throughout the city. Utah does have unique liquor laws, however, but these have been relaxed recently - drink sizes have increased and the process of getting into a private club has been simplified. Taverns and lounges only sell beer. Mixed drinks are sold at private clubs (the equivalent of bars) throughout the day. Visitors are welcome and can buy a two-week membership to most clubs for about US$4, which allows sponsorship of other guests. Alcohol may be ordered with a meal in most restaurants after midday, although customers have to ask for a liquor menu. Other than that, there are no licensing hours. The minimum drinking age is 21 years and drinks cost around US$3.50 for a beer to US$7 for a cocktail.

CitySearch Utah (website: www.utah.citysearch.com) provides an on-line guide to events, while City Weekly (website: www.slweekly.com) and The Event are free weekly papers with extensive reviews and listings.

Bars: Sports bars are popular in Salt Lake City. Some popular venues for watching a big match on a big screen are the Port O’Call, 78 West 400 South (website: www.portocall.com) and SkyBox Sports Grille & Arena, The Gateway, 4 South Rio Grande Street. Many bars now feature micro-brewed beers. These include the Red Rock Brewing Company, South 200 West Street, and Lazy Moon Pub, 32 Exchange Place. Another great place for beer aficionados is The Bayou, 645 South State Street, which has more than 150 varieties of the golden nectar (see Restaurants). The Red Door, 57 West 200 South, serves designer martinis in a cosmopolitan setting, while The Wine Bar at Baci, 134 West Pierpont Avenue, is arguably the best wine bar in town.

Casinos: There are no casinos in Salt Lake City but there are several casinos in Wendover, Utah and Nevada, including the Peppermill (website: www.peppermillwendover.com), Rainbow (website: www.rainbowwendover.com) and Montego Bay (website: www.montegobaywendover.com). There is no dress code, although the age limit is 18 years and photo ID will be required.

Clubs: Club Axis, 108 South 500 West, has two dancefloors and features a technobeam light show. Zipperz, 155 West 200 South, has four levels with top DJs, sound and lighting. Club Sound, 579 West 200 South (website: www.clubsound.com) is a private club that showcases the best in both local and national talent, while Vortex, 404 South West Temple (website: www.vortexslc.com) is the best dance club in town.

Live Music: The Dead Goat Saloon, 119 South West Temple (website: www.deadgoat.com), is a perennial favourite with live music most nights. The Green Street Social Club, Trolley Square, has food, live entertainment and dancing. Port O’Call Social Club has live bands, as does The Bayou (see Bars for both), which has jazz music on most nights.

City Statistics

Location: Utah, western United States of America.
Country dialling code: 1.
Time zone: GMT - 7 (GMT - 6 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 110 volts AC; 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 3ºC (37ºF).
Average July temp: 33ºC (92ºF).
Annual rainfall: 401mm (15.8 inches).
Annual snowfall: 1,600mm (63 inches).

Special Events

Sundance Film Festival (website: www.sundance.org), mid-Jan, Park City
Utah Shakespearean Festival (website: www.bard.org), Jun-Oct, Cedar City
Utah Arts Festival, arts festival with food and entertainment (website: www.uaf.org), Jun, Downtown
Days of ’47, festival, concerts, rodeos and parades honouring Utah’s early pioneers (website: www.daysof47.com), mid Jul, Downtown
Snowbird Jazz and Blues Festival (website: www.snowbirdjazz.com), last weekend in Jul, Snowbird Ski Resort
Odgen Pioneer Days Celebration, parades, rodeos and entertainment (website: www.ogdenpioneerdays.com), Jul, Ogden
Salt Lake Brewers Festival, food, music and tastings from Western microbreweries (website: www.gallivanevents.com), Sep, Downtown
Oktoberfest, German festival with traditional food, beer, dancing (website: www.snowbird.com), Sep-Oct weekends, Snowbird Ski Resort
Utah State Fair (website: www.utah-state-fair.com), Sep, Utah State Fairpark
Buffalo Days, Western roundup to move the bison herd to the northern part of the island, Sep, Antelope Island State Park
World of Speed, amateur and professional racers attempt to set new land speed records (website: www.saltflats.com), Sep, Bonneville Salt Flats
First Night Celebration, New Year’s activities for all ages, 31 Dec, Downtown

Cost of Living

1 American Dollar (US$1) = £0.57; C$1.16; A$1.31; ¬0.83
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005