World City Guide

Mini Guide of Sofia

City Overview

Sofia was founded three thousand years ago, by an ancient Thracian tribe, the ‘Serdi’, and known as Serdica until the beginning of the ninth century. Dramatically ringed by the Balkan Mountains to the north and the Vitosha Mountains to the south, the capital stands on an open plain 550m (1804ft) above sea level in western Bulgaria. Owing to its altitude, the summers are moderately hot and the winters cold and snowy, making spring and autumn the best times in which to visit. The town centre is dominated by neo-classical Stalinist architecture and is surrounded by a sprawling periphery of bleak, Socialist-era block housing – a formidable greeting for the first-time visitor. However, a peek through the side streets and century-old commercial quarter reveals the true magic of Sofia – a very European city of tree-lined boulevards and balconied buildings by 19th-century Russian and Viennese architects. Standing among a cluster of ancient and neo-Byzantine Orthodox churches, one functioning is mosque is virtually all that remains of 500 years of Ottoman domination. However, it is in street life where the character of the city is to be found. Locals meet for coffee at open-air cafés, vast bazaars offer an array of pickles and farm produce, gypsies sell flowers on street corners, while shoppers queue to board the city’s rattling trams and folk musicians serenade the metro users.

From the earliest times, Sofia’s main attraction has been its thermal springs, which are still in public use today, as a water source. Its strategic location on military and trade routes made it an important administrative centre in Roman times, reaching its grandeur as an early centre of Christianity during the reign of Constantine in the fourth century. Two significant Byzantine churches remain. In 1382, the Turks conquered the city but when they were ousted, in 1878, Sofia became the capital and its grand boulevards were constructed, cutting through the grid-plan quarters that had grown up around the oriental nucleus. Ottoman-imposed mosques were torn down, as the Orthodox Church was reinstated.

During World War II, Bulgaria became part of the Axis and Sofia was heavily bombed in British and American raids – 3000 buildings were destroyed and 9000 damaged, which accounts for its newness today. When the war ended in 1944, Russian soldiers took the capital and Bulgaria became part of the Eastern Bloc. Under Communism, Sofia underwent a period of rapid industrialisation – new factories and high-rise apartment blocks grew up to form extended suburbs and the city’s population escalated as thousands migrated from rural areas. The regime officially came to an end in 1989, although remains the most obvious legacy in contemporary urban culture and architecture. Despite these impositions, Sofia retains and is reclaiming its sense of European elegance and identity.

Politically and economically, however, Bulgaria continues to suffer from the vacuum left by Communism. The 1990s saw chaotic political instability, soaring unemployment, hyperinflation and rampant corruption. During privatisation measures, former Communist party members and their families managed to hold onto power and economic influence and still dominate the city’s government and trade, which has not helped its social development or aspirations towards the EU. In mid 2001, King Simeon Saxe-Coburg II, previously exiled in Spain, was elected Prime Minister on an anti-corruption platform but results have yet to be felt.

Today, visitors to Sofia will find a typical Balkan mix of Orthodox and Muslim cultures amid a crumbling Eastern Bloc society with an uncertain future. Mass privatisation has come hand in hand with a decline in living standards and initial optimism has been tempered by extreme and growing poverty. A young ambitious professional will pull up outside one of the city’s new chic cafés but across the street a lonely pensioner roots through a dustbin, encircled by a group of stray dogs, all eager for a morsel. However, with an educated populace and a strong desire to see justice and democracy won, once and for all, Bulgaria is slowly but surely regaining credibility and economic stability. The city’s motto, ‘Ever growing, never old’, is as true today as it ever was.

Getting There By Air

Sofia Airport (SOF)
Tel: (02) 937 2211/12
E-mail: public@sofia-airport.bg
Website: www.sofia-airport.bg

Sofia’s principal airport is located ten kilometres (six miles) east of the city centre. Recently renovated, Sofia Airport is now bright, modern and smoke-free (except in designated café areas) and has the capacity to serve 2.5 million passengers.

Major airlines: In addition to Bulgaria’s national airline, BALKAN (tel: (02) 981 5170; website: www.balkanair.com), airlines include Aeroflot, Air France, Air Ukraine, Alitalia, AUA Austrian Airlines, British Airways, CSA, Hemus Air, KLM, Lufthansa, Malev and Olympic Airways.

Approximate flight times to Sofia: From London is 3 hours 20 minutes; from New York is 10 hours 10 minutes; from Los Angeles is 14 hours 20 minutes; from Toronto is 11 hours 35 minutes and from Sydney is 26 hours 30 minutes.

Airport facilities: Facilities include several 24-hour bureaux de change and an ATM, located in the customs building some distance from the main entrance, as well as left-luggage facilities, bars, fast-food outlets and car hire from Avis and Hertz.

Business facilities: Business-class lounges are provided by some airlines.

Arrival/departure tax: None.

Transport to the city: The public transport bus 84 runs a frequent service – every ten or 15 minutes, 0500-2400 – from the airport to Orlov Most, close to the city centre (journey time – 20 minutes). Tickets cost Lv0.40 and can be bought from the kiosk near the bus stop or directly from the driver. Taxis are also readily available. Foreign visitors are sometimes overcharged, so a price should be agreed beforehand – approximately Lv40 is standard.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Roads in Bulgaria tend to be poorly surfaced and inconsistently numbered. European roads are prefixed by the letter ‘E’, while internal motorways and main roads are indicated by numbers only. Place names, signposted along main roads, are in both Cyrillic and Latin script – on minor roads they may be in Cyrillic only – but road signs are international. While petrol stations are found on the main road exits from most large towns and every 30-40km (18-25 miles) along the motorways, on minor roads these can be few and far between. The minimum age for driving is 18 years. Traffic drives on the right. Speed limits are 120kph (75mph) on motorways, 90kph (56mph) on country roads and 50kph (31mph) in urban areas. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%.

Driving throughout the country can be slow, as traffic is frequently held up by heavy goods vehicles. The police are known to stop motorists at random and check their documents – it is best to remain calm and polite. Fines for speeding and other driving offences are on the spot and can be heavy. A Green Card and Motor Insurance certificate are obligatory. UK driving licences and EU pink-format licences are valid in Bulgaria. Seatbelts always should be worn, although few locals adhere to this rule. All accidents should be reported to the traffic police, KAT (tel: 165), and a report filed. The process is lengthy but necessary for any insurance claims. If heading into the mountains during winter, it is advisable for drivers to carry snow chains.

The Bulgarian Automobile Touring Association (SBA), 3 Pozitano Ulica (tel: (02) 980 3308), provides information and deals with breakdowns.

Emergency breakdown service:
SBA 146

Routes to the city: The A1 and A2 are the major roads out of Sofia. The A1 heads east toward Plovdiv, while the A2 heads northeast to connect with the E772 toward Veliko Tarnovo, continuing northeast to where it becomes the A2 again, reaching Varna on the Black Sea. The E79 goes to Sofia from Greece, crossing the border at Kulata. The E80 from Turkey crosses the border at Kapitan Andreevo, while the E79 travels from Romania, crossing the border at Vidin-Kalafat. In addition, the E80 motorway runs to Sofia from the Yugoslav border at Kalotina and the E871 from the Russian border at Gyueshevo.

Driving time to the city: From Plovdiv – 1 hour 30 minutes; Veliko Tarnovo – 2 hours 30 minutes; Varna – 5 hours.

Coach services: There is no central coach station in Sofia. International coach services terminate at one of three places. Most go to the bus station, close to the Tsentralna Gara train station, 112 Maria Louiza Boulevard, on Ploshtad Predgarov, just behind the Hotel Princess, 131 Maria Louiza Boulevard. Some companies use the bus station at 38 Damian Gruev Ulica (a ten-minute walk west of the city centre), or the one at 84 Knyaginya Maria Louiza Boulevard (a ten-minute walk north of the city centre). Eurolines (tel: (01582) 404 511, UK number; website: www.eurolines.com) runs international coaches, connecting Sofia to cities throughout Europe. These terminate in front of the train station.

Long distance and local bus services reach all Bulgaria's main cities, such as Bougas, Varna, Plovdiv, Haskovo, Blagoevgrad, Pernek, Montana and Pleven, as well as 90% of its towns and villages. Most domestic coach services, run by private companies, terminate close to the train station or at one of three other bus stations, some way out of the city centre. These are the Avtogara Poduyane terminal, Todorini Kukli Ulica (for buses to the north and northeast), Ovcha Kupel terminal, Tsar Boris III Boulevard (buses southwest), and the Yug terminal, Dragan Tsankov Boulevard (buses southeast). The bus company, Etappe (tel: (02) 981 4213) has a ticket office in the National Palace of Culture (NDK), 1 Ploshtad Bulgaria, Yuzhen Park (website: www.ndk.bg), in the city centre.

Getting There By Rail

The Bulgarian State Railway, Balgarski Darzhavni Zheleznitsi (tel: (02) 931 1111 or 932 3333; website: www.bg400.bg/bdz), runs cheap and extensive services throughout the country, although trains can be very slow. The monumental, concrete Tsentralna Gara, Sofia’s main station, is located at 112 Maria Louiza Boulevard, a 20-minute walk north of the city centre. Facilities include left-luggage, money exchange kiosks, ATMs, bars and fast-food outlets. Tickets for lines covering the northern half of Bulgaria are sold on the ground floor of the station – all others are sold in the basement.

To avoid queuing, tickets can also be purchased from the Transport Service Centre (TsKTON) in the National Palace of Culture (NDK) underpass (tel: (02) 932 4280) or from Rila Tours, 5 General Gurko Ulica (tel: (02) 987 0777). Visitors should direct all national rail enquires to Balgarski Darzhavni Zheleznitsi (tel: (02) 931 1111 or 932 3333).

Rail services: From Sofia there are six main routes – to Varna or Burgas on the Black Sea coast, to Plovdiv and beyond on the Turkish border, to Kalotina on the Yugoslavian border, to Kulata on the Greek border and to Ruse on the Romanian border. There are also daily services to Belgrade (journey time – 8 hours), Bucharest (journey time – 11 hours), Budapest (journey time – 16 hours), Istanbul (journey time – 15 hours), Kiev (journey time – 38 hours), Moscow (journey time – 45 hours), St Petersburg (journey time – 65 hours) and Thessaloniki (journey time – 10 hours).

Transport to the city: Public transport trams 1 and 7 run from the station forecourt to Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya in the city centre. Taxis are also available.

Getting Around

Public Transport
The city transport authority is the Ministry of Transport and Communications (tel: (02) 940 9424), which operates trams, buses and trolley buses. Trams operate from 0500-0100, while buses and trolley buses operate from 0500-2400. There are no night services. There is also a single metro line, northwest from Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya to the Lyulin suburb. Plans to extend the underground system have made little progress. Up to date public transport information is available online (website: http://inetserv.sofia.bg/transpor.htm and www.aboutsofia.com/transport.htm).

Tickets cost Lv0.40 and are sold at kiosks situated at the major bus stops or newsagents. Once on board, tickets should be validated using the metal punchers located near the windows – failure to do so risks a Lv4 fine.

Passes or transit cards, valid for one day, five days or one month, are also available, costing Lv2, Lv9 and Lv37 respectively.

Taxis
Much has been done to improve the reputation of Sofia’s taxi drivers, who were said to overcharge foreign visitors. Since June 2000, taxis are required to be yellow and operate by meter. Official charges are extremely cheap – Lv0.30-0.56 per kilometre. The more reputable firms are Okay Supertrans (tel: (02) 973 2121), Yes Taxi (tel: (02) 91119 or 91009), Inex (tel: (02) 91919) and Taxi-S-Express (tel: (02) 1280). Taxi ranks are also located at strategic points throughout the city centre. A tip of 10-15% is common practise.

A recent addition to Sofia is a fleet of privately run blue minibuses, known as ‘Marsh-route Taxis’. These cover wider routes in a prescribed pattern, can be hailed anywhere and drop passengers on request. Most routes cost Lv1.

Limousines
Sofia Limo (tel: (02) 929 3334; fax: (02) 202 485; e-mail: info@sofialimo.com; website: www.sofialimo.com) hires out limousines for approximately US$40 per hour (including driver).

Driving in the City
Negotiating the interweaving paths of pedestrians, cars, trams and buses during rush hour, which is at its worst in the evening 1500-1900, can be a traumatic experience. However, once away from the city centre, traffic runs quite freely along the wide, open boulevards. Street names are almost exclusively in Cyrillic so, even with a map, orientation can be difficult for drivers who only read Latin script. Visitors should note that Bulgarians flash their lights to signal ‘get out of the way’, not to give another motorist the right of way. Alternatively, this can be a warning: Police ahead!

Parking in the city centre is limited to two hours in designated blue zones, which are found on Ploshtad Narodno Sabranie, Ploshtad Alexander Batenburg and Ploshtad Alexander Nevski. Up to one hour costs Lv0.80. Vouchers are usually sold on the spot by parking attendants. The larger car parks are found on Ploshtad Makedonija and in front of the NDK complex, 1 Ploshtad Bulgaria, Yuzhen Park (website: www.ndk.bg). Visitors should avoid parking in restricted zones, even if the locals appear to do so. Sofia City Council is quick to use yellow wheel clamps on offending vehicles.

Car Hire
Car hire is not cheap in Bulgaria. In fact, this is one of the few things that costs more here than in most Western European cities. Cars can be hired by visiting drivers aged 21 years (23 years for some companies) and above, on presentation of a passport and valid driving licence (held for at least two years). A credit card number or cash deposit is requested and a valid international insurance policy is also necessary. Full insurance is advised. Rates start from about Lv175 per day.

Providers include Avis (tel: (02) 981 1082/3; website: www.avis.com), Etma Holidays (tel: (02) 980 3472), Hertz (tel: (02) 980 0461 or 1062; website: www.hertz.com), M-Alito (tel: (02) 557 777), M&D Rent a Car (tel: (02) 931 0851; website: www.md-rent.com), Presto (tel: (02) 971 4866) and Rentavto (tel: (02) 292 5005).

Bicycle & Scooter Hire
There are no bicycle or scooter hire outlets currently available in Sofia. Sofia is so small and has such an excellent public transport system that bicycles and scooters are neither favoured nor required in the city. Anything that visitors would want to see outside the town involves mountains, which are unsuitable for bikes and scooters.

Business

Business Profile
Bulgaria is among one of the most industrialised former Eastern Bloc countries. The main industries based in Sofia are machinery, including farm machinery and car assembly, as well as textiles and food products. The city was also the centre of former Soviet Bloc high-tech industry and excels in electronics, particularly computers, software development and the creation of some very nasty viruses, due to the underemployment of young workers.

The Bulgarian government is keen to attract foreign investors and has passed new laws to protect and assist foreign businesses, attracted primarily by a highly qualified, computer literate and cheap labour force. However, recent instability and continuous changes of government have made new investors reluctant. The World Bank and the European Bank for Reconstruction & Development have offices in Sofia, as do the business consultants PriceWaterhouse-Coopers, KPMG and Ernst & Young. The main business districts in Sofia are located on Vitosha Boulevard and in the Sveta Nedelya area.

The country is working hard to align its laws with European Union Standards, in the hope of gaining EU membership, although this looks a long way off. Officially the business environment in Sofia and in Bulgaria as a whole is improving – GDP growth was 5% in 2000 and unemployment in the city was one of the lowest at the end of 2000, standing at just 5.5%. Nevertheless, Bulgaria's inflation and unemployment rates are still high – 10.1% inflation and 18% unemployment in 2002. The official standard monthly salary is Lv248 per month and there is negative population growth, due to a ‘brain drain’ of skilled young workers.

Business Etiquette
Due to their long legacy of occupation by foreign powers, Bulgarian business people are reserved and often highly suspicious of an outsider’s intentions until the proper introductions and contacts have been established. Business visitors should request meetings well in advance – in writing or by fax – and arm themselves with documents detailing interest and position. People in the higher ranks are likely to be former Communist party members and thus stiff officiousness should be prepared for. Bulgarians also pride themselves on their IT development and visitors will be expected to scrutinise the company’s website before questions are entertained. Dress code is standard suit and tie for men, while women are allowed to dress more daringly – short skirts and plunged necklines are not thought ill of. English is generally well understood, although employing an interpreter will help business visitors minimise the risk of misunderstandings. It is important that visitors should note that that nodding of the head means ‘no’, while shaking the head means ‘yes’.

Standard office hours are 0900-1800. Arrangements should be kept and punctuality is important. Bureaucracy tends to be slow and complicated, so patience is essential. However, after-hours socialising with Bulgarians is lively indeed, with a prodigious intake of food and alcohol – foreigners are advised not to attempt to keep up. Inviting business contacts to lunch or dinner is a common practice. Lunch usually begins at noon and dinner at 1900 or later. Favourite topics of conversation are sports, new economic and political changes. Gifts of expensive foreign whisky are almost always appreciated.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Sofia’s city centre stands upon the foundations of the original Roman settlement, Serdica, although the remains of this city are several meters below ground level. The best starting point for a walking tour is Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya, the city’s main traffic hub. From here, a grid of streets radiate out towards the inner ring road, which forms an irregular octagon around town. The main attractions are enclosed within this space and are all within walking distance of one another. From Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya, Maria Louiza Boulevard runs north, to the city’s sole surviving functioning mosque, Banya Bashi Dzhamiya (Banya Bashi Mosque). Close by, Tsentralnata Banya (Central Baths), Tsentralni Hali (Central Food Halls) and the Synagogue form a hub of early 20th-century monuments. The boulevard proceeds through an area that becomes progressively run-down as it nears the Central Station. Just off to the left lies Zhenski Pazar (Women’s Market).

Meanwhile, to the south lies Vitosha Boulevard, with the peak of Mount Vitosha proudly rising in the distance. The monumental Tsar Osvoboditel Boulevard, running east of Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya, goes past the exquisite Tsurkva Sveta Nikolai (St Nicholas Russian Church) to arrive at Alexander Nevski Ploshtad, overlooked by Sofia’s star attraction, Hram-pametnik Aleksander Nevski (St Alexander Nevski Memorial Church) and the early Byzantine Tsurkva Sveta Sofia (Church of St Sofia).

Tourist Information
National Information and Advertising Centre
1 Sveta Sofia Ulica
Tel: (02) 987 9778. Fax: (02) 989 6939.
E-mail: info@bulgariatravel.org
Website: www.bulgariatravel.org
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1730.

There is no official tourist information centre in Sofia but the National Information and Advertising Centre is very helpful in providing basic information on Sofia and Bulgaria. The centre keeps copies of the Sofia Echo’s ex-pat ‘what’s on’ guide, Culture Shock, and can make personal recommendations on accommodation or restaurants.

Passes
There are currently no tourist passes available in Sofia.

Key Attractions

Hram-pametnik Aleksander Nevski (St Alexander Nevski Memorial Church)
Said to be Sofia’s most photographed monument, Alexander Nevski is a magnificent neo-Byzantine cathedral-sized church, topped by copper and golden domes. Considered the heart of the city, it was built between 1882 and 1912, in honour of the Russian soldiers, who fell when the Russian army helped liberate Bulgaria from Ottoman rule in 1878. The church takes its name from Alexander Nevski, credited with saving Russia from Swedish troops in 1240 and the patron saint of the family of the tsar at that time, Alexander II – also known as Tsar Osvoboditel, the ‘Tsar Liberator’ – who led the army that drove out the Turks.

Inside, the central altar is dedicated to St Alexander Nevski, the southern altar to St Boris (who brought Christianity to Bulgaria) and the northern altar to Saints Cyril and Methodius (who created the Cyrillic alphabet). A total of 32 Russian and 13 Bulgarian artists worked on the delicate murals. The Icon Museum is located in the crypt, to the left of the main entrance. Here, over 300 icons and mural frescoes from the country’s many monasteries, tracing the development of Bulgarian icon-painting from the late ninth century up to the end of the 19th century. There are English labels, as well as a guidebook available in Bulgarian and English. The square in front of the church, Ploshtad Aleksander Nevski, hosts stalls selling souvenirs, dubious antiques and bric-a-brac throughout the year.

Ploshtad Aleksander Nevski
Transport: Bus to Ploshtad Aleksander Nevski.

St Alexander Nevski Memorial Church
Opening hours: Daily 0700-1800; services 0800 and 1700, Sat 1800, Sun 1700.
Admission: Free.

Icon Museum
Tel: (02) 877 697.
Opening hours: Wed-Sun 1000-1700.
Admission: Lv10.

Tsurkva Sveta Sofia (Church of St Sofia)
Standing next to St Aleksander Nevski, this early Byzantine brick church dates to the fifth century, although there were several churches here before it, as well as the pre-Christian Serdica city necropolis. The present church still follows the classic Byzantine plan of a regular cross with a central dome. The city took its name from the church in the 14th century, which was converted to a mosque under Ottoman rule, when the original 12th-century frescoes were destroyed and minarets added. During the 19th century, the building was abandoned, following damage caused by an earthquake. After the Liberation in 1878, it was restored and reinstated as a church and now is a popular spot for weddings, funerals and baptisms.

Outside, to the left of the main entrance, stands the Monument to the Unknown Soldier, lit by a perpetual flame in honour of those who died for Bulgaria. In the back of the church are stalls selling handmade lace and other traditional textiles.

Ploshtad Aleksander Nevski
Transport: Bus to Ploshtad Aleksander Nevski.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800.
Admission: Free.

Tsurkva Sveta Nedelya (Church of St Nedelya)
Sveta Nedelya, with its huge dome, is a typical example of neo-Byzantine architecture. There has been a church here since medieval times, although the present building dates from the mid-19th century. In 1925, the church was largely destroyed when Communist rebels exploded a bomb during a funeral service, attended by Tsar Boris III and his cabinet ministers, killing 123 people.

The square, Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya, used to be named after Lenin and a statue of the Communist leader once stood here. It has since been replaced by a 24m (79ft) bronze statue of the goddess protector of the city, Sofia, holding the symbols of wisdom and fame.

Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya
Transport: Bus to Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya.
Opening hours: Daily 0700-1800.
Admission: Free.

Natzionalen Archeologicheski Musei (National Archaeological Museum)
Housed in the ivy-clad 15th-century Buyuk Mosque (Big Mosque), the National Archaeological Museum is worth visiting just for the building itself. Recently reopened after extensive renovation work, the interior is airy and well lit and all exhibits are labelled in Bulgarian and English. Most of the pieces are of Thracian, Greek and Roman origin and there is a mosaic rescued from the floor of the St Sofia church. The star attraction is the Vulchitrun Treasure – a 12.5kg (27lb) collection of 13 decorated and strangely shaped vessels of solid gold, probably used by a King-Priest during Thracian religious rituals – which is upstairs in a guarded room of its own. It is best for English tourists to visit with a Bulgarian speaker, as the guard knows a great deal about what is to be found here. This is helpful, as the captions in the museum are vague. There are a few antiques and reproductions for sale in the museum foyer. After visiting the museum, the fashionable new Art Club Museum café behind the main building, is a good place for tourists to stop for a drink or snack. Some of the larger carved Roman marbles are displayed in the courtyard.

2 Saborna Ulica
Tel: (02) 882 405.
Transport: Bus to Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700.
Admission: Lv5.

Rotonda Sveti Georgi (Rotunda of St George)
Standing in the courtyard of the Sheraton Balkan Hotel, the tiny sunken redbrick Rotunda of St George is the oldest preserved building in the city, built in the fourth century, as a Roman temple. Partly destroyed by the Huns, it was rebuilt as a church by Justinian, in the sixth century. The Turks converted the rotunda into a mosque, until it was finally reinstated as a church. Careful restoration work has revealed three layers of exquisite medieval frescoes – some dating from as early as the tenth century – which had been hidden by plaster during the 500 years of Ottoman rule. The impressive cupola bears a 14th-century portrait of Christ the Pantocrator, surrounded by four angels and symbols of the Evangelists. Beneath, 12th-century fresco work depicts 22 prophets holding scrolls, with texts alternately in Bulgarian and Greek. To the east lie excavated foundations of an octagonal-shaped Roman public building and paved street.

5 Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya
Tel: (02) 981 6541.
Transport: Bus to Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1700 (winter); daily 0800-1800 (summer); liturgy 0900 every day.
Admission: Free; donations appreciated.

Banya Bashi Dzhamiya (Banya Bashi Mosque)
Once there were 70 mosques in Sofia but today the Banya Bashi Dzhamiya is the only one still functioning. It was designed in 1576, by the greatest of all Ottoman architects, Mimar Sinan, who also built the Sultan Selim Mosque in Edirne and the Blue Mosque in Istanbul. The mosque’s finest feature is the domed ceiling, which was restored to its original design, after the fall of Communism. Subdued loudspeakers on the elegant minaret call the city’s Muslim minority to prayer five times a day – on Friday there can be as many as 400 worshippers in attendance. The mosque is not officially open as a tourist attraction but visitors are welcome outside prayer times, including women, if modestly dressed. The inside is decorated with fine calligraphy, citing texts from the Koran, as the portrayal of human figures is banned in Islamic art.

The mosque takes its name from the neighbouring Tsentralnata Banya (Central Baths) – Banya Bashi means ‘a lot of baths’. The first thermal baths were built here by the Romans, although the present building – currently closed for restoration – dates from 1911. On the square in front of the baths, it is possible to taste the steaming mineral water (46°C/115°F) from public taps.

Maria Louiza Boulevard at Triyaditsa Ulica
Transport: Bus to Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya.
Opening hours: Daily 0500-2000 or 2100.
Admission: Free.

Tsentralni Hali (Central Food Halls)
Reopened in May 2000, after three years of restoration work, the Tsentralni Hali offers a clean, well organised and modern version of the bazaar shopping experience but retains its early 20th-century ironwork. Archaeological excavations reveal that the area was a marketplace from Roman times and some of the finds are on display in the basement. Stalls on ground level sell fruit and vegetables, local cheeses, olives, meats, wine and spirits, plus an array of breads and pastries. There are also a few coffee and drinks bars, as well as a modern crèche facility. The upper level is given over to fast-food kiosks with a large seating area.

25 Maria Louiza Boulevard
Transport: Bus to Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya.
Opening hours: Daily 0700-2400.
Admission: Free.

Further Distractions

Tsurkva Sveta Nikolai (St Nicholas Russian Church)
Built by Russian workmen in 1912 and dedicated to St Nicholas, ‘the miracle maker’, Sveta Nikolai is possibly the prettiest church in Sofia. The roof is covered with green majolica tiles and crowned with five gold-plated onion domes. The exterior recently was renovated by the Moscow Patriarchate, which provided the gold. More popular than the church itself is the crypt, accessed to the left of the main entrance. Here lies the tomb of the former Bishop Serafin, who died in 1950. Locals come here is droves to post hand-written messages into a box, standing to the right of the tomb. Although Serafin was never canonised, he is revered as a saint and believed to make prayers and wishes come true.

3 Tsar Osvoboditel Boulevard
Transport: Bus to Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya.
Opening hours: Daily 0730-1800; services Sat 0900 and 1700, Sun 0900.
Admission: Free.

Tsentralna Sofiiska Sinagoga (Central Sofia Synagogue)
Situated behind the Hali, the Central Sofia Synagogue is the largest Sephardic synagogue in Europe, although nowadays it serves a very small community. During the Diaspora of the 15th century, Jews exiled from Spain were welcomed into the Ottoman empire and settled quite peacefully. At the liberation from the Turks in 1878, Jewish people made up 20% of Sofia’s population. Although spared in the war, from the 1950s onwards, 90% of the Jewish population immigrated to Israel. Designed by the Austrian architect, Grunanger, the synagogue was built to resemble a former synagogue in Vienna, which was destroyed by the Nazis. Building began in 1905 and the official opening took place in 1909. The building is a square block of Spanish-Moorish design, with a large central dome lit by a showpiece 2250kg (4960lb) chandelier. The outer walls are ornamented with floral and geometric motifs. The building was restored by Bulgarian emigrants in Haifa (Israel), in the 1990s and officially rededicated in 1996. Originally intended to accommodate 1300 worshippers, nowadays services are only attended by 50 or 60 people.

16 Exarch Yossif Ulica
Tel: (02) 831 273.
Transport: Bus to Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya.
Opening times: Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat 0900-1300; closed Bulgarian and Jewish holidays.
Admission: Free.

Zhenski Pazar (Women’s Market)
The largest and busiest market in Sofia, Zhenski Pazar offers a wide range of fruit and vegetables, cheese, cured meats, dried fruit and nuts, homemade halva and other Turkish-inspired goodies. The stall holders at the Women’s Market were once all women but now male and female peasants from the surrounding hills travel to town each morning, to sell their produce here. There are also some stalls selling cheap fake designer clothes and a few tourist orientated items. The atmosphere is chaotic and a bit dirty but fun. There are also some good Turkish cafés around the perimeter of the market.

Stefan Stambolov Boulevard, between Slivnitsa Boulevard and Exarch Yossif Ulica.
Transport: Bus to Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800.
Admission: Free.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Many private travel agencies organise walking tours with English-speaking guides, as well as excursions out of town, including Balkantourist, 1 Vitosha Boulevard (tel: (02) 875 192; website: www.balkantourist.com), Balkantour Ltd, 27 Stambolijski Boulevard (tel: (02) 988 5543; e-mail: balkantour@hotmail.com), Tourist Service, 127 Rakovski Ulica (tel (02) 988 8108, e-mail: tourist-service@ind-bg.bg), and LYUB Travel, 11 M Kamak Ulica (tel: (02) 963 4427), which specialises in weekend getaways for ex-pats. An organised walking tour of the city centre, however, is largely unneccessary, as the historic sights are all concerntated aroune Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya and are well marked, making a self-guided tour the easiest and cheapest option.

Excursions

Boyana Church and the National History Museum: Boyana Church (tel: (02) 687 434) lies eight kilometres (five miles) southwest of Sofia, accessible by bus 64 from Gotze Delchev Boulevard. One of Bulgaria’s most cherished treasures, this tiny medieval church was closed to the public for 38 years, for restoration work, finally reopening in 2000. It is best known for its exquisite 13th-century frescoes, depicting scenes from the Bible and the lives of the saints. These are renowned for their realism and considered among the best examples of the Bulgaria’s medieval art. Boyana is one of nine Bulgarian cultural monuments included on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites. The church is open Tuesday-Sunday 0900-1700 and admission, restricted to ten minutes in the company of a guide, costs Lv10.

Close by, the National History Museum (tel: (02) 955 4280), recently relocated to the opulent ex- party headquarters, Boyana Residence, traces the development of Bulgaria’s cultural, social and political life from prehistoric times up to World War II. Of special interest are the stunning Thracian gold, silver and bronze treasures. Exhibits are labelled in Cyrillic only, although English-speaking guides are available. The museum is open daily 0900-1600 and admission costs Lv5. An English-language guide costs an additional Lv10.

For a Whole Day

Rila Monastery and Rila National Park: Located about 120km (75 miles) south of Sofia, the Rila Monastery is one of the most significant cultural monuments in Bulgaria, set dramatically within the beautiful alpine mountains of Rila National Park (tel: (701) 25035) and included on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites. The first monastery was founded here by followers of the Bulgarian hermit, St John of Rila, in the tenth century. It became a centre for artisans during the Renaissance. Throughout the five centuries of Ottoman domination, monastic life continued at Rila, thanks to its extreme isolation and heavily fortified defensive walls. Due to extensive fire damage, most of the buildings date from the 19th century, although one tenth-century tower remains. Within the complex, the outer walls of the central church are richly decorated with colourful scenes from the Bible, typical of the National Revival period, with particularly well detailed accounts of the torments of sinners in hell. Once there were reputed to have been more than 1000 monks. Today, there are less than a dozen. Donations for the monastery’s upkeep are very much needed and gratefully received. There is a separate museum on the premises, containing the remnants of the monastery’s riches. Entrance is Lv3. There are also numerous craft stalls within the complex and more outside its walls, at the back, along with a restaurant and snack shop. The monastery makes an ideal starting point for hiking in Rila National Park, where clearly marked mountain paths take walkers through dense pine forests. Trekkers or enthusiastic visitors can stay overnight at the monastery, accommodated in a sparse ‘cell’, at a cost of Lv30. The Monastery is open daily 0800-1800. A bus to Dupnitza village leaves every day at 0800, from the central bus station in Sofia. Connecting buses to Rila village depart at 1000 and 1100, departing from Rila village for the monastery at 1240. A bus departs from Rila Monastery for Dupnitza at 1715, while the bus from Dupnitza to Sofia departs at 1920.

Sport

Bulgaria’s favourite sport is football and the two top teams, CSKA Sofia (website: www.cska.bg) and Levski Sofia (website: www.levski.bg), both hail from the capital. However, Bulgarian football success is in decline, since a number of the better players left the country to play abroad. The football season kicks off in mid-August, takes a break during January and February, due to harsh winter conditions, then continues through to mid-May. Teams usually play on Sunday afternoons, although some big matches take place on Saturdays. Tickets are on sale at booths outside the grounds on the day of the match. Prices are generally cheap but vary depending on the teams playing. The two main stadiums are Vassil Levski Stadium and Stadion CSKA (Bulgarian Army Stadium), both situated in Borisova Gradina (Boris’s Park), where Sofia’s principal public sports facilities are also located. Although international matches are usually played at Vassil Levski Stadium, it is still closed for reconstruction, so until completion, which is expected in September 2002, these take place at either Stadion CSKA or the Gerena Stadium, in the Hadji Dimitur district.

Traditionally, Bulgaria’s major sport has been wrestling and gymnastics is becoming popular as well. Bulgaria has given some decent performances in the Olympics, although the sport was somewhat depleted when some of the gymnasts remained in the US, after the 1996 Olympic Games. At the 1998 Winter Games in Nagano, a 22-year old woman won the 15-kilometer biathlon event, becoming the first ever Bulgarian athlete to take a gold medal in the winter games.

Fitness centres: The main fitness centres in Sofia are Athletic, 9A Oborishte Ulica (tel: (02) 943 4419), Fitness Centre, 75 Vassil Levski Boulevard (tel: (088) 215 335), and Greta Sport Fitness Complex, 4 Arsenalska Ulica (tel: (02) 653 015), which includes the Spartak Swimming Complex, with both indoor and outdoor pools. Popular with the foreign community, the Sitnyakova Fitness Centre, 90 Cherkovna Ulica (tel: (02) 43 5303), is one of the newest and best equipped fitness centres, including sauna facilities.

Golf: Golf is a new sport in Bulgaria and, as yet, has few followers. Bulgaria’s first golf club, Golf Club Air Sofia, 1 Sixth Septemvri Ulica, Ihtiman (tel: (0724) 3530; website: www.airsofia.com/golf.htm), is located 50km (31 miles) southeast of Sofia, along the E-80. The 18-hole course opened in June 2000. Membership is not required and a day’s play costs Lv100 (Lv60 after 1800). Additional facilities include tennis courts, an outdoor swimming pool and riding stables.

Hiking: Mount Vitosha, 30 minutes south of the city centre, offers great opportunities for hiking and skiing. From spring to autumn, Sofians come here to walk the clearly signposted mountain paths and, from late-December to mid-March, it is possible to ski. Bus 61 from Ovcha Kupel bus station, in the city centre, goes to Zlatni Mostove recreation centre (a patch of private bungalows, restaurants and other facilities). From here it is possible to reach the peak, Cherni Vruh, at 2290m (7513ft), in two to three hours. Information on Zlatni Mostove is available from Pirintourist Co, 6 Vrabtcha Ulica (tel: (02) 981 1687 or 881 1079; fax: (02) 981 9036).

Swimming: In summer, the Banya Maria Louiza outdoor pool, in Borisova Gradina (tel: (02) 963 0054), is open to the public, 0900-2100, at a cost of Lv4. For something a little more luxurious, Castle Hotel Hrankov, 53 Krusheva Gradina, Dragalevtsi (tel: (02) 91909; website: www.hrankov-bg.com), at the foot of Vitosha Mountain, has both indoor and outdoor pools that are open to non-residents at a cost of Lv12. There is also a well equipped sports centre with a gym, sauna, squash and tennis courts.

Tennis: Public tennis courts can be found at Olympica, Borisova Gradina (tel: (02) 971 2090).

Shopping

Ten years since the end of Communism, the lack of colour associated with shopping in former Eastern Bloc countries can still be felt. However, Sofia is gradually smartening itself up to become more consumer orientated. Many of the big Western names in clothes, shoes, cosmetics and electronic goods are now represented and prices are on a par with those elsewhere in the West, with some reasonably good imitations at considerably cheaper prices. Bulgarian products, such as textiles, wood, ceramic and leather goods, still offer value for money but can be difficult to find. The main shopping areas centre on Vitosha Boulevard, Graf Ignatiev Ulica and Rakovski Ulica.

Following a costly facelift, TsUM, on the Largo, has cast off its former image as a drab department store and now operates as a Western-style shopping mall, with privately rented boutiques and cafés on three levels. There are also crèche facilities. The Tsentralni Hali (Central Food Halls), on Maria Louiza Boulevard have been refurbished to form a spotlessly clean and well-organised bazaar and are open daily 0700-2400 (see Key Attractions). Pirotski has been repaved and pedestrianised to link the Tsentralni Hali to Zhenski Pazar (Women’s Market), open daily 0900-1800. Situated on Stefan Stambolov Boulevard, Zhenski Pazar is a truly down-to-earth market (see Further Distractions).

Souvenirs, such as reproduction icons, Russian dolls, jewellery, ceramics, wooden items, embroidered tablecloths and lace are for sale at stalls in front of Alexander Nevski church. The Bulgarian Union of Artists, 6 Shipka Ulica, offers arts and crafts pieces at reasonable prices. Delta Trading, within the TsUM complex, is a good place for handmade Bulgarian kilim rugs, while CDs and tapes of Bulgarian music can be found at the stalls in the underpass below the NDK. Also worth investigating for souvenirs are the shops in the subway between TsUM and the Balkan Sheraton. There is a large book market at Ploshtad Slavejkov, near the National Theatre and Rakviski Ulica, where black market copies of software packages and the latest international CDs can be purchased, as well as cut-price books of touristic interest.

Luxury goods to take home include Bulgarian wines, notably the full-bodied red, Melnik, and rakiya – favourites being grozdova made from grapes and slivova from plum. Another national tipple is mastika, an anis-flavoured drink that is similar to Greek ouzo. These are available in shops throughout town. Finally, for essentials such as bread, milk and basic toiletries, the Shell Select Shops and Fantastico chain stores are open 24 hours. Two large supermarket chains are the Austrian Billa, Bulgaria Boulevard, and a huge new Turkish Ramstore, at the far end of Stambolijski Boulevard, accessible by tram.

Most shops are open either 0900-1830 or 1000-1900 on weekdays and until 1300 on Saturday. Some private shops are also open on Saturday afternoon and even Sunday. VAT in Bulgaria is 22% and visitors are unable, as yet, to obtain a VAT refund.

Culture

Sofia certainly takes culture seriously, although, during summer, its pre-eminence is closely rivalled by neighbouring Plovdiv or Varna. In keeping with European tradition, Sofians enjoy ballet, opera and theatre. These are of such high quality and low price, visitors are advised to have a look, despite language difficulties. The city’s official arts centre, Natsionalen Dvorets na Kulturata or National Palace of Culture (NDK), 1 Ploshtad Bulgaria, Yuzhen Park (tel: (02) 9166 2300; website: www.ndk.bg), is a colossal modern structure incorporating concert halls, exhibition spaces, congress facilities and the Lumière Cinema. Most major cultural events take place here. The box office is to the left of the main entrance.

Tickets to cultural events are available from the National Palace of Culture (NDK), for all major venues, or from the individual venue box offices. The English-language weekly Sofia Echo supplement, Culture Shock, and the monthly Sofia City Info Guide can provide details of ‘what’s on’.

Music: The Bulgaria Hall and Bulgaria Chamber Hall, 1 Aksakov Ulica (tel: (02) 987 7656), is the top venue symphonic concerts and boasts a showpiece pipe organ. The National Radio Orchestra is highly recommended. Sofia National Opera, 1 Vrabcha Ulica (tel: (02) 987 7011), hosts the main opera and ballet performances in one of Sofia’s most impressive buildings. The foyers, balconies and main hall are painted with scenes from various well known operas. Stefan Makedonski State Music Theatre, 3 Panayot Volov Ulica (tel: (02) 442 321), stages lighter operettas and musicals. Finally, Eastern Orthodox Church services offer a perfect opportunity to hear highly skilled choirs chanting amid incense and flickering candles.

Theatre: The theatre season runs from early October to late June. Naturally, plays are staged in Bulgarian but the high standard of the performances can make a visit to the theatre a memorable experience. Tickets cost Lv4-10. Naroden Teatar Ivan Vazov (Ivan Vazov National Theatre), 1A Vassil Levski Boulevard (tel: (02) 986 2252), is an impressive neo-classical building and home to the national theatre company. Works by eminent Bulgarians and classical writers are staged here. Sofia is famous for a sophisticated puppet tradition and it is not all geared for children – Kuklen Teatar (Central Puppet Theatre), 14 General Gurko Ulica (tel: (02) 987 3815), gives regular performances for all ages. NATFIZ (National Academy of Theatre and Film Arts), 108A Rakovski Ulica (tel: (02) 987 9862), puts on a range of experimental performances, including mime.

Dance: The Sofia National Opera, 1 Vrabcha Ulica (tel: (02) 987 7011), hosts ballet in Sofia. Arabesque is a highly regarded and excellent modern dance troupe, which usually performs at the NDK, 1 Ploshtad Bulgaria, Yuzhen Park (tel: (02) 9166 2300; website: www.ndk.bg).

Film: Sofia has a large film-going audience and has around 20 cinemas, most of which show recent foreign films, predominantly American, in their original version with Bulgarian subtitles. The best screen venue, however, is Kino Lumière, at the NDK, 1 Ploshtad Bulgaria, Yuzhen Park (tel: (02) 9166 2300; website: www.ndk.bg), and most film festival events take place here. Tickets cost about Lv5 – prices are often reduced for matinee performances. The best cinemas are Mir, 6 Denkoglu Ulica (tel: (02) 986 1135), the newly remodelled Levski, 28 Yanko Sakozov Boulevard (tel: (02) 443535), Serdika, 1 Yanjo Sakasov Ulica, close to Vassil Levski Monument (tel: (02) 431 797) and Europa Palace, 35 Alabin Ulica (tel: (02) 870 707). In addition, Dom na Kinoto, 37 Exarch Yossif Ulica (tel: (02) 980 7838), shows arthouse European films and Hollywood classics.

Cultural events: Sofia Music Weeks run through late May to late July. The programme features classical music, attracting international soloists and ensembles, as well as ballet. The International Jazz Festival takes place in November, attracting local musicians and performers from former-Yugoslavia and the ex-Soviet Union. The Music Evenings, in early-December, draw Bulgarian classical musicians. Further information on the above festivals is available from the NDK, 1 Ploshtad Bulgaria, Yuzhen Park (tel: (02) 9166 2300; website: www.ndk.bg).

Folklore festivals are popular throughout the country. Although there are no notable folk events in Sofia itself, in early August, the nearby town of Koprivshtitsa stages the Folk Music Festival, Bulgaria’s largest such event, attracting thousands of traditional singers and musicians from all over the country. Also in August, in Plovdiv, the International Folklore Festival takes place in the spectacular open-air Roman amphitheatre.

Literary Notes
Going back to ancient times, the Thracian world was best documented by the Greek author, Herodotus. In a famous passage, frequently quoted in museums throughout Bulgaria, he claimed that the Thracian population was ‘greater than that of any country in the world, except India’. Much later on, Voltaire mentions Sofia and Bulgaria in general in Candide (1759). Lamartine also cites Sofia in Le voyage a l'Orient (1832-33).

In modern literature, the central character of Julian Barnes’ political satire, The Porcupine (1992), was inspired by Bulgaria’s deposed Communist dictator, Todor Zhivkov. And Malcom Bradbury’s comic novels, Rates of Exchange (1983) and Why Come to Slaka? (1986), are based on life in Bulgaria under Communism. Written by Bulgarian intellectual, Maria Todorova, Imagining the Balkans (1997) examines the Balkans in general and what it means to live there.

Nightlife

Despite economic hardship and high unemployment, Sofians love to go out and party. Day and night, the countless bars and cafés throughout the city are heaving - a phenomenon that never fails to amaze foreign visitors. Unfortunately, the public transport system completely shuts down from 0100-0500. However, to illustrate just how night-orientated the city is, it is worth noting that a number of restaurants operate 24 hours, the best ones in the centre being La Gondola, 16 Vitosha Boulevard, Europe, 35 Alabin Ulica, and Breza, 45 Nikola Petrov Ulica. There are also several 24-hour shops.

The biggest concentration of bars and cafés lies to either side of Vitosha Boulevard. Irish pubs have hit Bulgaria and, as always, pull a mixed clientele of locals and ex-pats. Bars are busy until midnight, after which people move on to nightclubs, which are fairly dispersed through out town. Heavily frowned upon during Communist times, homosexuality is gradually becoming tolerated and it is now considered quite cool to be gay.

The absence of licensing laws means that drinking is possible at all hours and ages, although one must be over 16 to purchase alcohol. Most bars and cafés stay open until midnight. While locally produced wine and rakiya are excellent and reasonably priced (Lv7-10 for a bottle of table wine or Lv15-30 or more for a bottle of reserve wine), it is currently fashionable to drink imported beers and spirits (between Lv2-5), which are generally three times the price of the local tipple (between Lv1-2). Cigarettes are cheap (tobacco is one of Bulgaria’s main exports), so don’t expect smoke-free bars. Nightclub admission is also cheap, on average Lv3. Sofians are open-minded when it comes to dress, although some clubs only allow admission once ‘no neck’ bouncers have checked you out.

Check the English-language weekly Sofia Echo (website: www.sofiaecho.com) and the monthly Sofia City Info Guide for information on ‘what’s on’ in Sofia.

Bars: Black Label, in the Military Club, 8 Tsar Osvoboditel Boulevard, is a classy low-lit bar with a stunning choice of whiskies and bourbons, open until 0500. J J Murphy’s, 6 Karnigradska Ulica, one block west of Vitosha Boulevard, is a busy Irish pub serving good food, popular with Bulgarians and ex-pats alike, while Stateside, 34 Stambolijski Boulevard, attracts the Yanks with Tex-Mex food and live music. Beer Hall Schweik, 1A Vitosha Boulevard, is a pseudo-Czech beer hall serving imported beers and food.

Casinos: Casino Princess, in the Hotel Princess, 31 Maria Louiza Boulevard, claims to be Bulgaria’s biggest casino. The luxurious International Casino Club Sofia is situated within the Sheraton Hotel, 5 Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya. Both require a passport for entry (minimum age 18 years) but do not operate a dress code.

Clubs: Sofia’s clubs play music ranging from techno to jazz and rock to salsa. Caramba, 4 Tsar Osvoboditel Boulevard, follows the glitterati taste for Latin music and Chervilo, in the Military Club, 8 Tsar Osvoboditel, features house music courtesy of Turkish DJs. The candle-lit bar, open throughout the week, offers a comfortably sleazy atmosphere with dark wooden furniture and red velvet upholstery. The disco opens Wednesday (Latino night with salsa lessons and sangria), Friday and Saturday (techno). Dali, 6 Shipka Ulica, is a particularly fashionable disco, while Spartakus, in the underpass in front of Sofia University, between Vassil Levski Boulevard and Tsar Osvoboditel Boulevard, was the city’s first gay club and now attracts a mixed, young and trendy clientele. Swingin’ Hall, 8 Dragan Tsankov Boulevard, close to the Vassil Levski Stadium, is also young and cool, with two live contemporary bands and dance music in between.

Live music: For a true Balkan experience, spend the evening at a restaurant featuring live Bulgarian folk music. The best are Chevermeto, 106 Maria Louiza Boulevard, Boyansko Hanche, 1962 Boyana Residential Area, Sorishte, and Vodenitzata, set in an old mill in the Dragalevtzi district, close to the chairlift. All three are presented in typical rustic folksy style. Bulgarian pop-folk music, chalga, can be danced to at Erma, 25 Alabin Ulica, and Pri Kmeta (The Mayor’s), 3 Paris Ulica, on Thursday and Friday night.

Bourbon Street, 114 Vassil Levski Boulevard, offers occasional jazz and blues gigs, along with the rock ‘n’ roll concerts, while Backstage, 100 Vassil Levski Boulevard, offers a range of live music each night of the week. Foreign rock stars can be spotted at the Natsionalen Dvorets na Kulturata or National Palace of Culture (NDK), 1 Ploshtad Bulgaria, Yuzhen Park (tel: (02) 9166 2300; website: www.ndk.bg), which hosts rock concerts. The box office is to the left of the main entrance.

City Statistics

Location: Western Bulgaria.
Country dialling code: 359.
Population: 1,200,000.
Ethnic Mix: 90% Bulgarian, 10% Romanian
Religion: 95% Bulgarian Orthodox, 5% Muslim, Jewish and other
Time zone: GMT + 2 (GMT + 3 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin or three-pin plugs are in use.
Average January temp: - 2°C (28.5°F).
Average July temp: 22°C (71.5°F).
Annual rainfall: 645mm (25.4 inches).

Special Events

Marenitsa, the coming of spring is celebrated by wearing red and white tassels, Feb-Mar, throughout the city
St Trifon’s Day, a vine growing and wine making festival, 14 Feb, villages outside the city
Liberation Day, national holiday celebrating liberation from Ottoman rule in 1878, 3 Mar, throughout the city
Orthodox Easter, Apr, throughout the city
Labour Day, national holiday, 1 May, throughout the city
St George’s Day, Orthodox festival and official holiday, also agricultural celebration heralding the end of spring and beginning of summer, 6 May, throughout the city
Culture and Education Day, national holiday honouring Saints Cyril and Methodius for devising the Bulgarian alphabet, 24 May, throughout the city
Sofia National Book Fair, organised by the Association of Bulgarian Publishers, late May, NDK
Sofia Music Weeks, festival of classical and contemporary orchestral repertoire, May-Jul, Bulgaria Music Hall and NDK
Festival of European Co-productions, international annual non-competitive feature film festival, early Jun, Lumière Cinema, NDK
Birthday of St John of Rila, 18 Aug, Rila Monastery
Folk Music Festival, first weekend Aug, Koprivshtitsa
International Folklore Festival, last week Aug, Plovdiv
Day of Unification, national holiday, 6 Sep, throughout the city
Independence Day, national holiday, 22 Sep, throughout the city
Feast Day of St John of Rila, 19 Oct, Rila Monastery
Kinomania, three-week film festival, showing the newest and best international and Bulgarian films, Nov, NDK
International Jazz Festival, second week in Nov, various venues
Music Evenings, featuring classical music, early Dec, various venues
Sofia National Book Fair, organised by the Association of Bulgarian Publishers, mid-Dec, NDK
St Nicholas’ Day, 12 Dec, throughout the city
Christmas, national holiday – most families celebrate Christmas on 25 Dec, although traditional Orthodox Christmas is 7 Jan, 25-26 Dec, throughout the city
New Year’s Eve, festivities, 31 Dec, throughout the city

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: Lv0.5
33cl bottle of beer: Lv0.9
Financial Times newspaper: Lv4
36-exposure colour film: Lv8
City-centre bus ticket: Lv0.4
Adult football ticket: Lv5
Three-course meal with wine/beer: Lv15

1 Bulgarian Lev (Lv1) = £0.35; US$0.61; C$0.71; A$0.80; ¬0.51
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005