World City Guide

Mini Guide of Strasbourg

City Overview

Situated provocatively on the Franco-German border, over the centuries, Strasbourg has been passed back and forward like a ping-pong ball between these two countries. Annexed to France in 1681, after centuries of self-rule, Strasbourg was subject to German control from 1871 until the end of World War I and again between 1940 and 1944. The result is a city and people with a strong and distinctive local identity, combining the reputed efficiency and work ethic of the Germans with the lightness and sophistication of the French.

The name Strasbourg comes from Strateburgum, ‘the city of the roads’, because of its strategic geographical position on the west bank of the Rhine. Today, it could be called ‘the city of the trams’, due to an excellent and recently expanded network.

The city was already a thriving commercial centre in the Middle Ages, when building began on the impressive Cathédrale Notre-Dame. Its intellectual and artistic heights were reached during the Renaissance. In 1566, the university was founded and leading figures of the Reformation settled in Strasbourg. Religious strife caused considerable upheaval during the 16th and 17th centuries, although the 1681 annexation of the city by France brought stability and enabled Strasbourg to reassert its economic strength. Its symbolic significance as a major European city was confirmed when it was chosen as the seat of the Council of Europe in 1949, the European Court of Human Rights in 1994 and the European Parliament, the position of which was finally guaranteed in 1992. After Paris, Strasbourg is now France’s most important diplomatic town.

Strasbourg is far enough away from the capital to be truly independent on a cultural level, with its own opera, France’s only national theatre outside Paris, two international music festivals and Europe’s only bi-national TV station, Arte. Its international student population, some 50,000 strong, keeps the city vibrant and intellectually alive. Strasbourg is host to the permanent campus of the International Space University (ISU) and the Ecole Nationale d’Administration (ENA), the prestigious French Grandes Ecoles that relocated to Strasbourg in 1992.

The Grande Ile (Big Island) is the heart of the city, encircled by the Ill River and Fossé du Faux-Rempart canal. The dominant landmark in Strasbourg is the Cathédrale Notre-Dame in the Vieille Ville (Old Town). It has remained unchanged since the Middle Ages. Around the Cathedral, an impressive collection of museums is clustered. The central square is place Kléber – named after the brilliant Strasbourg-born military officer, Jean-Baptiste Kléber (1753–1800), who was singled out by Napoleon Bonaparte for high office in Egypt. Close by is place Gutenberg – named after Johannes Gutenberg, who resided in Strasbourg between 1434 and 1444, perfecting his famed printing press with moveable metal type. The main streets (rue des Grandes Arcades and the parallel rue des Francs Bourgeois) are remarkably small and pedestrian friendly. The Petite France area in the Grande Ile’s southwestern corner, crossed by canals, is Strasbourg’s medieval quarter and classed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Its half-timbered houses and narrow streets could not be more different from the ultra-modern City of Europe to the northeast of the city.

Strasbourg enjoys the semi-continental climate of the Alsace region, with sunny, warm and dry conditions. Nevertheless, because of the traditional Christmas market, the peak tourist season extends from May right through to the end of December.

Getting There By Air

Strasbourg-Entzheim International Airport (SXB)
Tel: (03) 8864 6767. Fax: (03) 8864 6932.
E-mail: aeroport.information@strasbourg.cci.fr.
Website: www.strasbourg.aeroport.fr

The airport, France’s seventh largest, is situated 12km (seven miles) southwest of Strasbourg. International links include flights to Amsterdam, Brussels, Casablanca, Copenhagen, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow and Vienna. There are excellent connections to Paris – links between the two cities represent approximately 70% of the airport’s traffic.

Major airlines: The national carrier is Air France (tel: (0820) 820 820; website: www.airfrance.fr ). Other airlines include Air Littoral, Austrian Airlines, Iberia, KLM, Regional Airlines, Transaero and SN Brussels.

Approximate flight times to Strasbourg: From London is 1 hour 30 minutes; from New York is 8 hours; from Los Angeles is 11 hours; from Toronto is 8 hours 15 minutes and from Sydney is 23 hours 50 minutes.

Airport facilities: These include duty-free shops and boutiques, a restaurant, bar, newsagent, two ATMs and car hire from Avis, Budget Rent a Car, Europcar, Hertz, National/Citer and Sixt.

Business facilities: The airport hires out rooms accommodating from six to 60 delegates for meetings and conferences (tel: (03) 8864 6767; fax: (03) 8864 6764; e-mail: aeroport.dir@strasbourg.cci.fr). Audiovisual equipment and catering is also available on request.

Arrival/departure tax: None.

Transport to the city: Compagnie de Transport Strasbourgeois – CTS (tel: (03) 8877 7070; website: www.strasbourg.com/cts) operate shuttles (navettes) from the airport arrivals terminal to the Baggersee tram station (journey time – 12 minutes) from where there is a direct link to all points within the city. The tram service operates every 15 minutes Monday to Friday, Saturday morning and Sunday afternoon, then every 30 minutes Saturday afternoon and Sunday morning (see Public Transport in Getting Around). The cost is ¬4.70 (single), ¬8.60 (return) and ¬42.50 (for a carnet of 10 tickets). Taxis to the city centre cost approximately ¬23.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Motorways (‘autoroutes’) bear the prefix ‘A’ and national roads ‘N’. Minor roads are classed as ‘D’ (for ‘departementales’) roads. Traffic is on the right and drivers must give way to the right, unless the route is marked with ‘passage protégé’ signs (a broad arrow, a yellow diamond or an ‘X’ on a triangular background), or if the driver is at a roundabout indicating 'Vous n’avez pas la priorité'. Speed limits are 130kph (81mph) on motorways, 110kph (68mph) on dual carriageways separated by a central reservation, 90kph (46mph) outside built-up areas and 50kph (31mph) in built-up areas. Visitors who have held a driving licence for less than two years face tighter speed restrictions. The minimum age for driving is 18 years. All front and rear-seat passengers must wear seatbelts and children under 10 years may not travel in the front seat. The French police fine motorists on the spot for driving offences, such as speeding. Random breath tests for drinking and driving are common – the legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.05%.

A national driving licence, the car’s registration document and a red warning triangle must be carried at all times. EU nationals taking their own cars to France are strongly advised to obtain a Green Card, without which insurance cover is limited to the minimum legal cover. The Green Card tops this up to the level of cover provided by the car owner’s domestic policy.

Useful contacts for drivers in Strasbourg include the Automobile Club Action+, 5 avenue de la Paix (tel: (03) 8836 0434; fax: (03) 8836 0063; e-mail: info@automobileclub.org; website: www.automobileclub.org ), the Hôtel de Police, 34 route de l’Hôpital (tel: (03) 9023 1717), and Zurich Assurances (Zurich Insurance), 7 rue de Verdon (tel: (03) 9040 4210).

Emergency breakdown service:
Automobile Club (0800) 080 001.

Routes to the city: Strasbourg is on the central European motorway network, directly connected to Paris by the A4 motorway to the west, linked to Munich via Stuttgart on the A8 Autobahn to the east and the A5 north to Frankfurt. The recently developed Strasbourg-Mulhouse route is linked to the national motorway network, facilitating access to Lyons and Marseilles, as well as to destinations in Spain and Italy.

Approximate driving times to Strasbourg: From Stuttgart – 1 hour 30 minutes; Frankfurt – 2 hours; Paris – 4 hours 15 minutes.

Coach services: The coach station is located at place des Halles and served by two companies. Compagnie des Transports Strasbourgeois – CTS (tel: (03) 8823 4323; website: www.strasbourg.com/cts ) serves the immediate surroundings of Strasbourg, including Wasselonne, Obernai and Erstein. Mugler (tel: (03) 8889 4053) serves the north of Strasbourg and more distant locations, including major towns of Haguenau and Niederbronn-Les-Bains. Eurolines, 6D place d’Austerlitz (tel: (03) 9022 1460; fax: (03) 9022 1469; e-mail: strasbourg@eurolines.fr; website: www.eurolines.fr ), operates international coach services to major destinations throughout Europe.

Getting There By Rail

The Société Nationale des Chemins de Fer Français – SNCF (tel: (08) 9235 3535; website: www.sncf.com ) operates the national railway service. The main train station, located at 20 place de la Gare (tel: (03) 8875 4120), is France’s sixth largest railway station. There is a post office located nearby, at 18 place de la Gare, and car hire from Avis, Budget, Europcar and Hertz are available at or near the station.

Rail services: There are good services to many European cities, such as Frankfurt (journey time – 2 hours 45 minutes), three daily trains to Brussels (journey time – 5 hours 15 minutes) and London (journey time – 6 hours), as well as links to France’s major cities, including Paris (journey time – 4 hours 45 minutes), Bordeaux (journey time – 8 hours 30 minutes) and Marseille via Lyon (journey time – 8 hours).

The new high-speed TGV-Est, currently under construction, will run from Paris Est to Metz and Strasbourg. This will greatly enhance the existing service. Work began on the first stage at the beginning of 2002 and 2005 will see the first train trials. The first section of the new line is expected to open in summer 2007.

Transport to the city: Trams taken in the direction of Illkirch or Etoile, lead directly to the city centre’s L’Homme de Fer stop (see Public Transport in Getting Around).

Getting Around

Public Transport
The Compagnie des Transports Strasbourgeois – CTS (tel: (03) 8877 7070; website: www.strasbourg.com/cts ) operates the bus and tram systems in Strasbourg.

Trams run daily 0430-2430, approximately every two minutes in rush hour. Line A links the northwest (Hautepierre) with the south of the city (Illkirch-Graffenstaden) and passes through the main train station, place Kléber and place de l’Etoile. Line B links the southeast of Strasbourg (Elsau district) to the communes in the north (Schiltigheim, Bischeim and Hoenheim), while line C links Elsau to the heart of the university quarter, the Esplanade district. The lines meet at place de l’Homme de Fer in central Strasbourg.

Buses run Monday to Friday 0430-2330, Saturday and Sunday 0530-2330. The main stops are at Baggersee, Hautepierre, Observatoire, Montagne Verte and Pont Phario.

Bus and tram tickets cost ¬1.10 and a carnet of five (Multipass) costs ¬4.70. The Central Tourist Office, 17 place de la Cathédrale (tel: (03) 8852 2828), sells carnets of bus tickets and provides a free bus map. Tickets are also available from CTS bureaux located at place Kléber and at the central station, as well as from post offices, some newsagents (tabacs) and ticket machines at some of the stops. Tickets must be stamped for validation before boarding the tram or bus. There are machines at the stops for this purpose.

The TourPass, allowing unlimited bus and tram transport for 24 hours, costs ¬3. These are also available from CTS bureaux and the Office du Tourisme. A Family Pass is also available, costing ¬3.80.

Information on transport in Strasbourg is available online (website: www.transports-strasbourg.org ).

Taxis
Taxis can be hailed at taxi ranks at the train station and place de l’Homme de Fer. France Taxi (tel: (03) 8822 1919) and Taxi 13 (tel: (03) 8836 1313) operate 24 hours. Taxis charge ¬1.20 per kilometre during the day, rising to ¬1.80 at night and weekends. An extra charge of ¬0.50 is made for each item of luggage. Many taxis accept payment by credit card and tipping is not expected.

Limousines
AICS, 15 avenue Général de Gaulle (tel: (03) 8845 9191; fax: (03) 8845 9190; e-mail: aics@noos.fr; website: www.alsace-limousines.com ), provides a chauffeured limousine service at a rate of ¬499.25 per day. Similar services are offered by American Limousine Service, 5 rue Lyautey (tel: (03) 8819 6169), and VIP Car Solutions, 58 rue de la Loire (tel: (03) 8833 6366).

Driving in the City
Almost the entire centre of Strasbourg is pedestrianised and cars should be left at the large car parks on the fringes of the city centre. The popularity of public transport (particularly the trams) means that traffic congestion is rarely a problem. What rush hour there is takes place Monday to Friday 0800-0900 and 1630-1830.

In order to encourage drivers to use public transport, eight large car parks outside the centre charge low rates of ¬2.70 per day, which includes tram tickets for all passengers. More central car parks charge about ¬1.10 per hour. Sainte-Marguerite-Petite France, close to the Musée d’Art Moderne, charges ¬2.30 for six hours and ¬0.80 for less than one hour. Sainte Aurelie-Gare, just south of the station, charges the same rate. Three large car parks cluster around the place des Halles. Parking at the railway station, Serres, Canal and Porte de l’Hopital car parks is free for visits of less than 30 minutes. The Bateliers Car Park, near the Cathedral, Austerlitz, in the south of Strasbourg, near the place d’Austerlitz, and ‘Parking 2’, at Centre Halles, are free 2000-0200 – ideal for nights out. Further information is available from Strasbourg’s online parking guide, Parcus (website: www.parcus.com ), as well as Communauté Urbaine de Strasbourg (website: www.transports-strasbourg.org ).

Car Hire
Providers include Avis (tel: (03) 8832 3044; website: www.avis.fr ) and Europcar France (tel: (03) 8815 5566; website: www.europcar.fr ), both located near the train station, and Hertz France, 10a boulevard Metz (tel: (03) 8832 5762; website: www.hertz.fr ). The minimum age for car hire varies from 21 to 25 years. A credit card is required and drivers must have possessed a national driving licence for at least one year.

Hire rates are approximately ¬68 to ¬270 per day, with insurance usually included in the price. Environmentally friendly electric cars are available for hire at ¬15 for half a day or ¬30 for a day, from the Sainte-Aurélie Car Park, 1 Boulevard de Metz. A deposit of ¬150 is required.

Bicycle Hire
Strasbourg has the largest cycle network in France. Bicycles are available for hire from Vélocation, located not far from the station, at 4 rue du Maire Kuss (tel: (03) 8852 0101), 10 rue des Bouchers (tel: (03) 8835 1165), Sainte-Aurélie 1, boulevard de Metz (tel: (03) 8832 2011), Petite France, Tours des Ponts Couverts (tel: (03) 8822 5919), and Place du Château (tel: (03) 8821 0638), as well as from Bus Vélocation, at the European Parliament (tel: (06) 1449 4360).

A deposit of ¬45.70 is required, together with identification. Bicycle hire costs ¬3.05 for a half day or ¬4.57 for one day (concessions available). Internet booking is also possible (e-mail: info@velo-strasbourg.com; website: www.velo-strasbourg.com ) and maps of the cycling routes are on sale at the point of hire.

Business

Business Profile
Although it is the smallest of France’s 22 regions, Alsace is the second richest (after the Ile-de-France) and the biggest exporter per capita. Strasbourg’s geographical position, just across the river from Germany and close to Switzerland, allows some 69,830 Alsatians (les transfrontaliers) to cross the national boundaries daily. This keeps unemployment figures down to France’s lowest rate, at 5.8%, compared to the national average of 8.9%.

In addition, economic success is assured by a tight network of small and medium-sized businesses, as well as the European Institutions, which help make Strasbourg France’s second city in terms of international events. Further factors in Strasbourg’s favour are its highly skilled labour force and balanced economy. The major sectors of employment are agriculture and wine production, leisure and business tourism, services, pharmaceutical and chemical companies (Bristol-Myers-Squibb, Chiral Technologies, Menicon, Synthélabo Biomoléculaire and Transgène), industrial manufacturing and, increasingly, computer technology.

Among the most important French firms based in Strasbourg are Peugeot (automobiles), SNCF (railways) and Coopérateurs d’Alsace (retail). The region’s geographical position, in the heart of Europe, has also paved the way for increasing international links and many foreign companies have a base in Alsace, such as Aventis, Delphi, aton, General Motors, General Motors Saginaw, Johnson Controls, Lilly, Roche and UPM Stracel.

La Maison du Commerce International de Strasbourg (MCIS), set up in Strasbourg in 1979, was to be the World Trade Centre in France. Strasbourg is the third largest banking city in France, with 12 banking head offices and 14 foreign banks, equating to one bank office for every 1252 inhabitants.

The financial quarter is based in the Wacken quarter, while offices dominate the central Places des Halles – including Ernest and Young and Anderson. Business parks are located outside the centre – one at Schiltighen, five kilometres (three miles) north of Strasbourg, which includes the headquarters of Aventis. There is a science park, 10 kilometres (six miles) south of the city, in Illkirch, where electronics companies, such as Transgene, are based.

Business Etiquette
Standard office hours are Monday to Friday around 0800-1900, with a lunch break between 1200-1400. Offices often close early on Friday afternoon. Breakfast meetings (between 0830 and 1000) are increasingly frequent, while late afternoon and lunch meetings are also common.

The Alsatians are well practised in dealing with foreign visitors – over 40% work in foreign companies, of which 20% are Anglo-Saxon. Many members of the professional community speak German and English. The working mentality is quite Germanic – work is taken seriously. Other French regions accuse the Alsatians of being too serious, while Alsatians think Parisians and the southern French are too light-hearted (légers). Of all the French regions, Alsace loses the smallest number of days in labour disputes.

When conducting business, the first meeting is normally devoted to establishing a relationship – further meetings will enable decisions to be made. Business cards are vital and suits (with ties for men) should be worn. Initial introductions should be made with surnames and visitors should bear in mind that the Strasbourgeois will use the formal French ‘Monsieur’ and ‘Madame’ or the formal German equivalents ‘Herr’ and ‘Frau’.

After work socialising is not so common in Strasbourg, although colleagues will often dine together over their long 1200-1400 lunch break. It is unlikely that visitors doing business in the city will be invited to private homes of their clients and associates.

When deciding to set up business in Strasbourg, it is wise for foreign businesspersons to include an Alsatian, with useful contacts, in the team. Alsace Development International – ADI (tel: (03) 8852 8282; fax: (03) 8875 6459; website: www.alsace.com ) is a non-profit-making organisation linked with other offices in the USA, Australia and India, which is geared towards minimising culture clashes. ADI offers a wide-ranging free service for companies wishing to locate in Strasbourg.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
The key attraction of Strasbourg has to be its pink limestone Gothic Cathedral, on place de la Cathédrale. Most of the museums are clustered around this focal point and many are housed in the 18th-century Palais Rohan. This area is easily reached by foot or by tram to the Grand’Rue or Homme de Fer.

The Petite France district (former home of the city’s millers, tanners and fishermen) should not be missed. It has Hansel and Gretel-style half-timbered houses, flourishing geraniums and narrow streets crisscrossed by canals. This is the stuff of fairy tales, so it is hardly surprising that Alsace has given rise to a rich folklore tradition (see Literary Notes). The canals lead to the Ponts Couverts, constructed as part of the 14th-century fortifications – the watchtowers still stand. The Barrage Vauban (Vauban’s Dam), designed to protect Strasbourg from river-bound attack, is nearby.

Other districts for visitors to explore include the imposing European Institutions in northeast Strasbourg, with Richard Rogers’ visually striking European Court of Human Rights and the grandiose German Quarter, constructed during the Prussian occupation of 1870, dominating place de la République. The city’s university is nearby, across the Ill and Aar rivers. Visitors should pay a visit, if only to see the remarkable zoological and scientific collections at the Musée Zoologique, located in the heart of the campus. S

trasbourg’s museums form a close and co-ordinated network and are free on the first Sunday of every month. Information is provided online (website: www.musees-strasbourg.org ) and via a central information telephone line (tel: (03) 8852 5000).

Tourist Information
Office du Tourisme (Central Tourist Office)
17 place de la Cathédrale
Tel: (03) 8852 2828. Fax: (03) 8852 2829.
E-mail: info@ot-strasbourg.fr.
Website: www.ot-strasbourg.fr
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1900, Sun 0900-1800.

Other tourist offices are located at Galerie à l’en-Verre, place de la Gare and on avenue du Pont de l’Europe (route du Rhin).

Passes
The Strasbourg-Pass is available for purchase at the Central Tourist Office and in hotels for ¬9.90. Valid for three days, the pass includes five free offers (to one of the eight museums, ascent to the Cathedral platform, the Astronomical Clock, a boat tour through the Old Town and use of a bicycle for one day) and five half-price offers.

Also available is the Passe des Musées de Strasbourg (tel: (03) 8933 9629; e-mail: info@museumspass.com; website: www.museumspass.com ), which allows free access to all of Strasbourg’s museums and exhibitions. The pass is available for purchased at Strasbourg’s museums for ¬25 and is valid for one month on any four days. Serious culture vultures planning a year’s stay in Alsace may be tempted by the annual pass, valid for one year, which offers access to 120 museums in Alsace, Switzerland and Germany, also available for purchase at participating museums. This costs ¬53 for one adult or ¬92 for two adults.

Key Attractions

Cathédrale Notre-Dame (Notre Dame Cathedral)
The Cathedral shares Strasbourg’s history of piggy-in-the-middle, falling under Protestant control after the Reformation and returning to the Catholic Church when Louis XIV took control of the city in 1681. Although shrouded in cobwebs of scaffolding, this huge building still stands proud, its steeple (completed in 1439) reaching 142m (466ft). The interior is rather plain but highlights include the intricate façade with its three portals dedicated to the life of Christ and Last Judgement, the Eglise and Synagogue statues (the originals are located at the Musée de l’Oeuvre Notre-Dame) and the colourful rose window over the west portal. The Horloge Astronomique (Astronomical Clock) strikes at 1230, as a cock flaps its wings and the stages of life (represented by child, boy, adult and old man) march to meet death. The climb to the top platform, from which there is an outstanding view over the city, involves ascending (and descending) 332 steps; this should only be contemplated by fit and healthy visitors.

Place du Château (south entrance) or Place de la Cathédrale (main entrance)
E-mail: oeuvre-notre-dame@cus-strasbourg.net
Website: www.oeuvre-notre-dame.org
Transport: Tram line A to Homme de Fer or tram line B to place Broglie.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1730, Sat and Sun 1000-1730 (Jan-Oct); Mon-Fri 0900-1630, Sat and Sun 1000-1630 (Nov-Dec).
Admission: Free (Cathedral); ¬3 (roof platform); ¬0.80 (Astronomical Clock); concessions available.

Musée de l’Oeuvre Notre-Dame (Notre-Dame Museum)
The original pair of statues (circa 1230) of Eglise (a symbol of the victorious Church) and the blindfolded, defeated Synagogue (representing Judaism), is the main treasure of this museum. Other highlights include the Tête du Christ (Head of Christ), part of a stained-glass window from the mid-11th century, the sculptures of Nicolas Gerhaert de Leyde and the still-life paintings by Sébastien Stoskopff. This rich collection of Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance sculpture, furniture and tapestries extends over three floors of 14th- and 16th-century buildings.

3 place du Château
Tel: (03) 8852 5000.
E-mail: oeuvre-notre-dame@cus-strasbourg.net
Website: www.oeuvre-notre-dame.org
Transport: Tram line A to Homme de Fer or Grand’ Rue; tram line B to place Broglie.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800.
Admission: ¬4 (concessions available).

Palais Rohan (Rohan Palace)
This ‘mini-Versailles’ was built between 1732 and 1742, as a residence for the city’s French princely bishops, including Cardinal Louis de Rohan. The château houses three museums and a gallery. The basement is devoted to the Musée Archéologique and covers the period from the Palaeolithic Age to AD800. The Musée des Arts Décoratifs, located on the ground floor, comprises the luxurious apartments of the cardinals of Rohan (used as guesthouses by Louis XV and Marie-Antoinette) and a collection of Strasbourgeois clocks and china. The Musée des Beaux Arts, located on the first floor, displays European paintings from the Middle Ages to 1870.

2 place du Château
Tel: (03) 8852 5000.
E-mail: musees@cus-strasbourg.net
Transport: Tram line A to Homme de Fer or Grand’Rue; tram line B to place Broglie.
Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1000-1800.
Admission: ¬4 per museum or gallery (concessions available).

Musée Alsacien (Alsace Museum)
This intriguing museum of day-to-day life and Alsatian traditions is housed in three 16th and 17th-century buildings. The hotchpotch collection includes kitchen equipment, furniture, toys and a miniature 18th-century toy synagogue.

23-25 quai Saint Nicolas
Tel: (03) 8852 5004. Fax: (03) 8843 6418.
Website: www.musee-strasbourg.org/F/alsacien.html
Transport: Bus 10 to place Corbeau.
Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1000-1800 (Jan-Mar and Jul-Aug); Mon-Sat 1200-1800, Sun 1000-1800 (Apr-Jun and Sep-Dec).
Admission: ¬4 (concessions available).

Musée d’Art Moderne et Contemporain (Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art)
This museum, with its glass façade looking onto the quayside, is an ultra-modern addition to Strasbourg’s buildings. The impressive permanent collection of paintings from the 1860s to the 1950s includes work by Monet, Signac, Arp, Picasso, Magritte and Klimt. From the 1950s to the present day, Brecht, Filliou, Pérez and Manetas are represented. There is also an art library, concert hall and café-restaurant.

1 place Hans-Jean Arp
Tel: (03) 8823 3131. Fax: (03) 8823 3132.
E-mail: mamcs@sdv.fr
Website: www.musees-strasbourg.org/F/art_mod.html
Transport: Bus 4 or 10; tram line B.
Opening hours: Tues, Wed, Fri, Sat and Sun 1100-1900, Thurs 1200-2200.
Admission: ¬5 (concessions available).

Further Distractions

Parc de l’Orangerie
Situated just opposite the Palais de l’Europe, this is the largest and oldest park in the city. The beautifully proportioned pavilion, with its creamy white walls and central fountain, was constructed in honour of Empress Josephine, in 1804. However, the oldest paths were designed by Le Nôtre, two centuries earlier. The lake allows for boating in summer. The park has a zoo, ‘mini-farm’ and stork enclosure, although visitors should not be surprised to see free-flying white storks nesting on many of the roofs and in the trees.

Avenue de l’Europe
Transport: Bus 6, 30 or 72 to Orangerie/Palais de l’Europe.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

Parc de Pourtalès
In the 19th century, Countess Mélanie de Pourtalès would receive high society in the beautiful château, situated at the heart of this 24-hectare (59-acre) park. Contemporary sculptures are scattered throughout the gardens. Some, such as Claudio Parmiggiani’s La Forêt regarde et écoute (‘the forest watches and listens’), which consists of bronze ears grafted on to tree trunks, are so well blended in with the landscape that some locals still have not spotted them. Rue Mélanie Transport: Bus 15 to Mélanie. Opening hours: Daily dawn to dusk. Admission: Free.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Strasbourg is an ideal size to be covered by foot and a trip around the Cathedral (particularly at night) and Petite France district is essential for the visitor. The lush, grassy banks of the Ill and the Fossé du Faux-Rempart canal afford views of the major sights. Audio-guided visits lasting 90 minutes are available in French, English, German, Italian and Spanish and represent by far the best way of exploring the city. Equipment is available for hire for ¬6 from the Office du Tourisme, 17 place d la Cathédrale (tel: (03) 8852 2828; fax: (03) 8852 2829), between 0900 and 1900 for a period of 24 hours. A deposit of ¬30 or ID is required. This form of walking tour is highly recommended for independent travellers who prefer to sightsee at their own pace. The Office du Tourisme also organises French-language- guided tours that cover the Cathedral and Petite France, also lasting approximately 90 minutes and costing ¬6.

Pedestrians need to be aware, however, that the access to some parking areas means that cars have to drive along the pavement to reach them, cycle lanes form part of the pavement rather than the road and, even when crossing at a road junction with a ‘green’ light, cars turning into the road continue to approach – they are obliged to give way to pedestrians on a crossing but the experience can come as a surprise.

Boat Tours
The Service touristique du Port Autonome de Strasbourg, 15 rue de Nantes (tel: (03) 8884 1313; fax: (03) 8884 3313; website: www.strasbourg.port.fr/visites-en-bateaux.htm ), organises a two-and-a-half-hour cruise, departing from the place de l’Etoile daily at 1430 (Jul-Aug). The tour travels along the Ill and Rhine rivers and costs ¬8. In addition, it also offers daytime and night-time cruises on the Ill River, with commentary in English, departing daily from the Palais Rohan pier, Place du Marché aux Poissons, all year round. These tours take 75 minutes and cost ¬6.60 (concessions are available).

Other Tours
CTS (tel: (03) 8877 7070; website: www.strasbourg.com/cts ) operates a mini train sightseeing service, with multilingual commentary. The 50-minute tours run every 30 minutes, daily 1000-1700 (23 March to 26 April), 0930-1830 (27 April to 28 June – except on 1 May), 0930-1900 (29 June to 15 September) and 0930-1700 (16 September to 20 October). From 21 October to 3 November, the train runs every hour daily 1000-1700. It departs from the place du Château, passing the La Petite France district and the Cathedral. Fare is ¬4.60 for adults and ¬2.30 for children.

Excursions

For a Half Day
Colmar: The capital of the Haut-Rhin, 70km (43 miles) south of Strasbourg, is known for its quaint Old Town and dry wines (celebrated in the annual wine festival, Foire aux Vins). It is also home to the Rétable d’Issenheim (Issenheim Altarpiece), painted by Mathias Grünewald, between 1512 and 1516, for St Anthony’s monastery and displayed at the Musée d’Unterlinden, 1 rue d’Unterlinden (tel: (03) 8920 1558; e-mail: info@musee-unterlinden.com; website: www.musee-unterlinden.com ); The museum is open daily 0900-1800 (May-Oct) and Wednesday to Monday 0900-1200 and 1400-1700 (Nov-Apr). Admission is ¬7 (concessions available).

Colmar is a 40-minute train journey from Strasbourg. Colmar Tourist Office, 4 rue des Unterlinden (tel: (03) 8920 6892; fax: (03) 8941 3413; e-mail: info@ot-colmar.fr; website: www.ot-colmar.fr ) can provide further information.

For a Whole Day
Molsheim and the Route des Vins: The Route des Vins extends from Marlenheim, west of Strasbourg, to Thann, close to Mulhouse, offering opportunities for free dégustations (tastings) and summer wine festivals. Molsheim is one of the largest towns on the itinerary, less than 30km (19 miles) southwest of Strasbourg – a 30-minute train journey. Its attractions, in addition to wine, include the medieval fortifications, the Porte des Forgerons (Blacksmiths’ Gate), the 16th-century Metzig and the Eglise des Jésuites, an impressive Gothic church.

Molsheim Tourist Office, 19 place de l’Hôtel de Ville (tel: (03) 8838 1161; fax: (03) 8849 8040; e-mail: infos@ot-molsheim-mutzig.com; website: www.ot-molsheim-mutzig.com ), can provide further information.

La Route des Vins d’Alsace and the Black Forest: Tourisme Fleury, 15 Rue du Kirchbert (tel: (06) 0726 6815; e-mail: info@tourisme-fleury.fr; website: www.tourisme-fleury.fr ) operates two tours on these routes, departing Strasbourg at 0930/1000 in air-conditioned mini-buses. The excursions visit the vineyards north of Colmar (Circuit A) or up to the Black Forest and Baden-Baden in Germany (Circuit B); both arrive back in Strasbourg around 1600. There is a minimum of two people and the tours cost ¬69.

Sport

Football is ever popular and Strasbourg’s team, Le Racing club de Strasbourg (tel: (03) 9041 2222; fax: (03) 9041 2222; e-mail: webmaster@rcstrasbourg.fr; website: www.rcstrasbourg.fr ), has been doing rather well recently, climbing up to the first division in autumn 2002. The football stadium, Stade de la Meinau, rue de l’Extenwoerth (tel: (03) 8844 5544), has a capacity for 30,000 spectators.

The annual sporting highlights begin in January, with the International Fencing Tournament. May sees in the European Football Tournament – STRASCUP and the International Women’s Tennis Championship. The popular Triathlon is held in July and the season culminates in August, with the European Handball Tournament.

Tickets to major sporting events in Strasbourg are available for purchase at the Office des Sports, Quai Ernest Bévin (tel: (03) 8831 8383) or FNAC, place Kléber (tel: (03) 8852 2121).

The Hôtel de Ville, 1 place de l’Etoile (tel: (03) 8860 9090), the Office des Sports (see above) and the Centre d’Information de la Jeunesse Alsace, 7 rue des Ecrivains (tel: (03) 8837 3333; website: www.cija.org ), all can provide further information on sporting events in Strasbourg.

Fitness Centres: These include Carré Brun, 11 rue de Wissembourg (tel: 03 8832 7515), where a day of sport or pampering costs ¬18, L’Eau Vive, 29 Vieux-Marché-aux-Vins (tel: (03) 8822 3655), which costs ¬12 per day (concessions available), and La Cour de Honau, allée de la Honau, 67610 La Wantzenau (tel: (03) 8896 3344), where four hours of gym costs ¬20.

Golf: The Golf Club de Strasbourg is situated at the route du Rhin, Illkirch-Graffenstaden (tel: (03) 8866 1722; website: www.golf-strasbourg.com ). The course is open to non-members Mon-Fri 0900-1800, although those wishing to play must have a handicap of at least 35 and belong to a golf club. Weekends are for members only, or guests invited by a member. Green fees are ¬40 weekdays and ¬50 weekends. The 18-hole course, Kempferhof, 351 rue du Moulin, at Plobsheim (tel: (03) 8898 7272), is open to the public, costing ¬60 weekdays and ¬90 at the weekend. For players under 25 years, the tariff is increased by 50%. Golf International Soufflenheim, allée du Golf, Soufflenheim (tel: (03) 8805 7700; website: www.golfclub-soufflenheim.com ) has three courses (18, nine and six holes) and one practice driving range. Rates are ¬23-45 weekdays and ¬30-70 at the weekend. Only players with a handicap better than 36 are allowed to play on the 18-hole course.

Squash: A 45-minute game of squash at Centre Sportif de la Robertsau, 212 route de la Wantzenau (tel: (03) 8831 6525), costs ¬5.50 per person, with racquet hire costing ¬1.60 per person. The sports centre is open to non-members.

Swimming: Public pools include the Piscine de la Robertsau, 210 route de la Wantzenau (tel: (03) 8831 3233), and the grandiose Bains Municipaux, 10 boulevard de la Victoire (tel: (03) 8825 1758), where guests can also take a sauna or Turkish bath. The adult charge at both venues is ¬2.74 (concessions available).

Tennis: Most tennis courts belong to private clubs and require membership. However, Tennis Club de Strasbourg, 20 rue Pierre de Coubertin, in the international quarter (tel: (03) 8835 2923), has four indoor and 13 outdoor courts available for hourly hire – ¬15 off-peak period and ¬18 after 1730 weekdays and all day weekends. For information on membership of Alsace tennis clubs, visitors should contact the Ligue d’Alsace de Tennis, rue Baden Powel (tel: (03) 8827 9900).

Shopping

The Place des Halles, 24 place des Halles, is the main commercial centre (open Mon-Fri 0900-2000 and Sat 0900-1900), with approximately 120 shops, as well as 10 restaurants and bars. The two main department stores, open daily 1000–1900, are both situated near place Kléber – Galeries Lafayettes, rue du 22 Novembre, and Printemps, 1-5 rue de la Haute Montée. FNAC, place Kléber, is also worth a visit for all things electronic and electrical.

Designer shops can be found along rue des Orfèvres (Chanel and Yves Saint-Laurent) and rue de la Mésange (Cartier, Gucci and Hermès), with chic outlets along rue des Hallebardes and the up-and-coming rue du Vieux-Marché-aux-Poissons (Kenzo, Cerruti and Georges Rech), fast becoming lined with designer names. On the other end of the fashion scale, visitors can buy second-hand clothes, priced according to their weight, from Kilo Shop, 6 rue de la Lanterne, while traditional Alsatian costumes are for sale or hire at Maison du Costume Alsacien, 11b quai de Turckheim.

For year-round Christmas fans, Un Noël en Alsace, 10 rue des Dentelles, sells Christmas decorations whatever the season. Hat lovers should head for designer milliner La Chapellerie, 24 place de la Cathédrale. At 3 rue de Pâques, not far from Place des Halles, is The Bookworm, a bookshop selling English and American books, including Window to Strasbourg: A Guide to Living in France, which is written by enthusiastic amateurs and provides an excellent insight into the minutiae of life in Alsace.

Speciality shops are located all over the city but most close between 1200 and 1400 and on Sunday and Monday mornings. Alsatian specialities at the Edouard Artzner Shop, 7 rue de la Mésange, include Strasbourg goose and duck foie gras and Alsatian wines. René Tourette’s cheese shop, La Cloche à Fromage, 27 rue des Tonneliers, is well worth a visit.

The Central Tourist Office provides a brochure on Strasbourg’s markets, mainly held Tue-Sat 0700-1300. There is an all-day food market at place Broglie on Wednesday and Friday and a flea market at place de la Grande Boucherie and rue du Vieil Hôpital on Wednesday and Saturday. The seasonal Christkindelsmärik takes place from late November to 24 December at place Broglie and rue de la Comédie, and until 31 December at place de la Cathédrale and rue des Hallebardes. This traditional Christmas market dates back to the 16th century and everything from vin chaud (hot wine) to santons (clay figurines), toys and gourmet delicacies are on sale.

Shopping hours vary – department stores are open 0900-1900 and boutiques are open 1000-1200 and 1400-1800. Shops are closed on Sunday and some boutiques also close on Monday morning or all day. VAT currently stands at 19.6% and visitors from outside the European Union can claim a refund upon departure, for every purchase over ¬175, provided the relevant tax free cheques have been collected, stamped and produced, with the purchases and travel documents, upon departure. Global Refund (tel: (01) 4161 5151; fax: (01) 4834 6182; e-mail: taxfree@fr.globalrefund.com; website: www.globalrefund.com ) can provide further information on VAT refunds in Strasbourg.

Culture

Fabienne Keller, Strasbourg’s new mayor, is dedicated to allocating a large portion of the city’s budget to culture. Music is its forte but Strasbourg does well across the cultural spread, with several events open to the public every day of the year.

The concert and opera seasons run from October until May. The largest concerts are shown at the Palais de la Musique et des Congrès, place de Bordeaux (tel: (03) 8837 6767; website: www.strasbourgmeeting.com ). Recitals and chamber music can be heard inside churches and smaller concert halls. Every year, for a weekend in September during journée du patrimoine, Strasbourg’s cultural institutions allow free entry to the public. Since September 2002, two key cultural venues, TAPS Scala, 96 route du Polygone (tel (03) 8834 1036), and TAPS Laiterie, 13 rue du Hohwald (tel: (03) 8823 7237), have been working together to present a long season (Sep-Jun) of theatre, music and dance.

Tickets are available for purchase at the venue or, for larger concerts, at FNAC, place Kléber (tel: (03) 8852 2121).

Cultural activities are listed in the Dernières Nouvelles d’Alsace (website: www.dna.fr ), Strasbourg Magazine (website: www.mairie-strasbourg.fr ) and Hebdoscope. More information about cultural events is found in Autour de& the French-only journal of the Opéra National du Rhin, available from the Office du Tourisme (see Tourist Information in Sightseeing).

Music: The Opéra National du Rhin, Théâtre Municipal, 19 place Broglie (tel: (03) 8875 4800; fax: (03) 8824 0934; e-mail: opera@opera-national-du-rhin.com; website: www.opera-national-du-rhin.com ), has earned Strasbourg a worldwide reputation for classical, lyrical and contemporary music. Other prestigious organisations include the Orchestre Philharmonique de Strasbourg (website: www.philharmonique-strasbourg.com ), conducted by world-renowned Jan Latham-Koenig, which performs at the Palais de la Musique et des Congrès, place de Bordeaux (tel: (03) 8815 0900; website: www.strasbourgmeeting.com ), the Percussions de Strasbourg, 15 place André-Maurois (tel: (03) 8826 0709; website: www.bisbigliando.com/percussions.htm ), and the Conservatoire National de Région de Strasbourg (CNR), 10 rue du Hohwald (tel: (03) 8823 7723).

Theatre: Organisations that attract international companies, actors and directors include the Théâtre National de Strasbourg (TNS), 1 avenue de la Marseillaise (tel: (03) 8824 8824; fax: (03) 8837 3771; e-mail: tns@tns.fr; website: www.tns.fr ), the Théâtre Jeune Public, 7 rue des Balayeurs (tel: (03) 8835 7010; fax: (03) 8836 5327; e-mail: tjp@theatre-jeune-public.com; website: www.theatre-jeune-public.com ), and Le Maillon, 13 place André Maurois (tel: (03) 8827 6171 or 8827 6181; e-mail: info@le-maillon.com; website: www.le-maillon.com ). The Théâtre Alsacien de Strasbourg, located at the Théâtre Municipal, 19 place Broglie (tel: (03) 8875 4800; fax: (03) 8824 0934; website: www.theatre-alsacien-strasbourg.com ), and La Choucrouterie, 20 rue St-Louis (tel: (03) 8836 0728; website: www.choucrouterie.com ), presents traditional shows and political satires in French and Alsatian. Le Kafteur, 3 rue Thiergarten (tel: (03) 8822 2203; fax: (03) 8852 0709; e-mail: infokafteur@wanadoo.fr; website: www.lekafteur.com ), is a café-théâtre that presents humorous sketches.

Dance: The Opéra du Rhin Ballet (e-mail: ballet@opera-national-du-rhin.com; website: www.opera-national-du-rhin.com ) performs at the Palais de la Musique et des Congrès, place de Bordeaux (tel: (03) 8837 6767; website: www.strasbourgmeeting.co ) and the Théâtre Municipal, 19 place Broglie (tel: (03) 8875 4800; fax: (03) 8824 0934). Contemporary dance and jazz take place at Pôle Sud, 1 rue de Bourgogne (tel: (03) 8839 2340; website: www.strasbourg.com/pole-sud ).

Film: The recently opened multiplex UGC Ciné Cité, 25 route du Rhin, Neudorf, east Strasbourg (tel: (08) 9270 0000), boasts 23 screens and seats 5,400 people, making it the largest cinema in Europe. Its sibling, the UGC Capitole, 3-5 rue du 22 Novembre (tel: (03) 8832 0436; website: www.ugc.fr ), offers all the latest national and international films. The centrally located Pathé Vox, 17 rue des Francs Bourgeois (tel: (03) 8875 5021), offers reduced rates for the 1100 showing. Star Saint Exupéry, 18 rue du 22 Novembre (tel: (03) 8832 3482), has the winning formula of film plus meal. Arthouse cinemas, Cinéma Star, 27 rue Jeu des Enfants (tel: (03) 8832 4497), and Odyssée, 3 rue des Francs-Bourgeois (tel: (03) 8875 1152; website: www.cinemaodyssee.com ), show films in the original language.

Cultural Events: The major annual events in Strasbourg are the International Music Festival in June, with classical concerts held throughout the city, and Strasbourg’s summer season of poetry, Les Mardis de la Poésie, every Tuesday in July and August, as well as choral concerts on Wednesday (Les Mercredis de la Voix), and concerts on Thursday (Les Jeudis de la Petite Scène Musicale). Musica, the festival of contemporary music, held at the Palais de la Musique et des Congrès, in September, and the jazz extravaganza, Jazz d’Or, in November, are also important annual events on the city’s cultural calendar.

Literary Notes: Early literary works involving the city include the Serments de Strasbourg (842), by the brothers Charles le Chauve and Louis le Germanique, and the edifying 12th-century Hortus Deliciarum, by the nun, Herrade de Landsberg. The city’s association with the written word was continued by Gutenberg (1399-1468), who arrived in Strasbourg in 1434, where he developed his printing press with moveable type. Despite debtors forcing Gutenberg to flee from Strasbourg in 1444, by the end of the 15th century, printing was strongly established in the city – an integral part of the intense religious and intellectual life in Alsace.

Goëthe’s stay in Strasbourg, in 1770-71, marked the start of the German renovation movement in poetry, known as ‘Sturm und Drang’. Up to the end of World War I, German-language literature was thriving. Notable contributors were Friedrich Lienhard, René Schickele and Jean-Hans Arp. Albert Schweitzer, the most important Alsatian figure of the 20th century, contributed with literature in dialect. In the early 1980s, Alsatian literature (in the form of songs and poetry) was rediscovered. Alsatian folklore was published in modern French. Particularly charming are the magical tales traditionally recounted on New Year’s Eve.

Modern Alsatian literature is expressed in French, German and Alsatian dialect. Prominent writers and poets include Maxime Alexandre, Jean-Hans Arp, Gaston Jung, Alfred Kern, Marcel Schneider and Claude Vigee. Alsatian literature can be found at La Librairie Oberlin, 22 rue de la Division Leclerc (tel: (03) 8832 4583), and at the annual Salon du Livre, in Colmar, during November. Other highpoints on an Alsatian literary trail include the BNUS National University Library (France’s second largest library after the Bibliothèque National de France) and a fabulous humanist library, Bibliothèque Humaniste de Sélestat, located 45km (28 miles) from Strasbourg, in Sélestat. The latter boasts a rich collection of 3,000 manuscripts dating from the seventh to the 16th century and tracing the evolution from handwritten to printed work.

Nightlife

The student population keeps Strasbourg’s nightlife vibrant. Many of the regular hotspots are clustered around the Cathedral and along rue des Juifs, however, it is worth considering other options – such as an evening tour on a bateau-mouche or the son et lumière performances at the Cathedral in the summer.

Bars stay open until at least 2330 and often until 0400. The legal drinking age in France is 16 and the average price of a beer is approximately ¬3. Dress code and admission requirements are not an issue in Strasbourg.

Visitors proficient in the mother tongue can refer to Strass’Night, published by the tourist office, for nightlife listings and information. There is also an excellent online source of useful information, also in French (website: www.strassbuch.com ), compiled by knowledgeable local students.

Bars: Le Zurich, 59 rue de Zurich, is a sparse but comfortable café, very popular with students during term time. Decorated with faded photographs, it has a certain old-world charm and draws a mixed bunch, who gather to chat, read the newspaper or play cards. The relaxing Académie de la Bière, 17 rue Adolphe Seyboth, is open daily until 0400, serving over 70 varieties of beer (including beer cocktails) in gorgeous, wooded interiors. Le Schluch, 3 rue de l’Outre, is a large, friendly and centrally located bierstub, not far from place Kléber, while the Quai des Bières, at the pont du Corbeau, is best visited for happy hour (1730-2000). It offers a large choice of beers and cocktails. Another must is Les Frères Berthom, 1 place des Trippiers, with attractive decor, friendly staff, a good variety of beer and excellent cocktails – small wonder it is so popular.

Murphy’s House, 9 rue des Frères, is the obligatory Irish pub, although not the only one in the city. It comes complete with Celtic music and pop and British television. Irish Times, 19 Rue St Barbe, also has live music, and is popular with students. They have a quiz night on Wednesdays and an open mike sessions on Tuesdays. Pub Nelson, 20 rue des Couples, is another anglophile hangout, with a wide choice of beers from England, Ireland, Belgium, Holland, France and Germany. The popular Tapas Café, 16 rue de Bain Finkwiller, is an ideal place to sink a jug of Sangria with friends. Designed by cutting-edge architect Jean Nouvel, Le Schutzenberger, 29-31 rue des Grandes Arcades, is a hyper-trendy, futuristic, three-levelled bar that serves good tapas and snacks and is open daily 1000-0200 (later at the weekend).

Perennial favourites include Les Aviateurs, 12 rue des Soeurs, and La Java-Le Village, 6 rue du Faisans. More dignified evenings are in order at the Hilton Hotel, avenue Herrenschmidt, which draws the business community with its ever-so-British Churchill Bar.

Casinos: Casino de Niederbronn, 10 place des Thermes, Niederbronn, is the region’s one and only casino, situated to the north of Strasbourg. Games include the traditional roulette and blackjack, as well as slot machines. The dress code is smart, the minimum age is 18 years and a passport is required for entry.

Clubs: Le Divan, 6 impasse de l’Ecrevisse, features Latin music, house, groove and salsa (Tue-Sat). A mixed crowd dance the night away at Le Chalet, 376 route de la Wantzenau (Wed-Thu 2200-0400), with two dancefloors, karaoke, restaurants and bars in a large, flash complex. Another mammoth venue, Le Colysée, route de Mommenheim, in nearby Brumath, is open Tue-Sun 2200-0400 and Wed 2030-0400, boasting one of the largest dancefloors in the region, along with lasers, restaurants, and frequent themed evenings. For a more intimate evening, La Cascade, 17 rue des Moulins (Thu-Sun 2200-0400), is an attractive little discotheque, situated in the heart of the Petite France district. Le Joker, 7 Simenstrasse (Fri-Sat 2200-0500), is located in the industrial Kehl district and the venue of choice for fans of RnB. Two-level bar-club Le Café des Anges, 42 rue de la Krutenau (Tue-Sat 2100-0400), plays salsa with tango, as well as jazz and groove. Le Blue B, 1 rue du Miroir (Tue-Sun 2200-0400) is a good all rounder, with friendly staff, star-studded decor, a well-stocked bar and good music. For a student vibe, Le Caveau, 1 place de l’Université, situated under La Gallia student canteen, is about as studenty as it gets. For those who just want to keep partying, Le Rock City, 24 rue des Poules, has after-parties on Saturday and Sunday 0400-0700, with the emphasis very much on rock.

Live Music: La Salamandre, 3 rue Paul-Janet, open Wed-Sunday 2100-0400, is a popular venue that hosts around 40 major concerts every year. International stars to have graced the stage include The Stranglers, Les Négresses Vertes, Pulp and Tri Yann. With space for around 500 people and reasonable prices, early booking is advisable. In the absence of major performances, check out salsa, 60s, 80s, student, flexigroove and reggae evenings. The older members of the community are treated to ballroom dancing on Sunday nights. Another top venue for live performance is La Laiterie, 10 rue du Hohwald. Le Griot, at the impasse de l’Ecrevisse, just opposite the Hôtel de Ville, on place Broglie, is one of Strasbourg’s best jazz clubs.

City Statistics

Location: Department of Bas-Rhin (Lower Rhine), Alsace region, northeastern France.
Country dialling code: 33.
Population: 264,115 (city); 451,240 (metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix: 86% French, 14% numerous other nationalities.
Religion: 65% Catholic, 23% Protestant, 7.5% Muslim and 4.5% Jewish.
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 1°C (34°F).
Average July temp: 19°C (66°F).
Annual rainfall: 610mm (24 inches).

Special Events

Carrefour Européen de l’Antiquité et de l’Art (European Crossroads of Art and Antiques), Jan, Wacken Exhibition Hall, place de la Foire
Festival Européen du Disque (European Music Festival), music industry meeting, Jan, Wacken Exhibition Hall
Salon International de la Moto et du Deux Roues (International Car and Motorbike Show), automobile, bicycle and motorbike show, Feb, Wacken Exhibition Hall
Puces-Brocantes (Flea Market), antiques and flea markets, Feb, Wacken Exhibition Hall ST’ART, contemporary art fair, Feb, Wacken Exhibition Hall
Salon des Vins des Vignerons Indépendants (Independent Winegrowers Show), the wealth of Alsace wines and wind-growing expertise comes to Strasbourg, offering opportunities to taste and buy, Feb, Wacken Exhibition Hall
Tourissimo (Tourism Fair), Mar, Wacken Exhibition Hall Carnaval de Strasbourg (Strasbourg Carnival), end Mar-early Apr, throughout the city centre
Maisons de Printemps (Spring Interior Design Show), Apr, Wacken Exhibition Hall
Salon du Tuning Passion Auto (Automobile Show), May, Wacken Exhibition Hall
Puces-Brocantes (Flea Market), antiques and flea markets, May, Wacken Exhibition Hall
Internationaux de Tennis Feminin (International Women’s Tennis Tournament), May, rue Baden Powel, Hautespierre Festival International de Musique (International Music Festival), Jun, Palais de Musique et des Congrès
Fête de la Musique, classical and contemporary music festival held throughout France, Jun, throughout Alsace
Les Mardis de la Poésie (Tuesday of Poetry), poetry season, every Tue in Jul and Aug, Munsterhof, 9 rue des Juifs
Les Mercredis de la Voix (Wednesday of the Voice), choral concerts, every Wed in Jul and Aug, Munsterhof, 9 rue des Juifs
Les Jeudis de la Petite Scène Musicale (Thursday of the Small Musical Scene), concerts, Thu in Jul and Aug, TJP Petite Scène, 1 rue du Pont-Saint-Martin
Foire Régionale des Vins d’Alsace (Regional Fair of Alsatian Wine), Aug, Colmar Foire Européenne de Strasbourg (European Fair of Strasbourg), everything from tractors to saris for sale, Sep, Wacken Exhibition Hall
Festival Musica (Festival of Contemporary Music), Sep-Oct, Palais de la Musique et des Congrès
Salon des Associations, fair facilitating meetings with Strasbourg companies, Oct, Palais de la Musique et des Congrès
Jazz d’Or, jazz festival, Oct-Nov, Palais de la Musique et des Congrès
Nuits Européennes (European Nights), musical evenings, two to three days in Nov, Palais de la Musique et des Congrès
Puces-Brocantes (Flea Market), antiques and flea markets, Nov, Wacken Exhibition Hall
Salon du Livre, literary fair, late Nov, Parc des Expositions, Colmar
Marché de Noël (Christmas Market), end Nov-31 Dec, place Broglie,place de la Cathédrale and place de la Gare

Cost of Living

One -litre bottle of mineral water: ¬0.80
33cl bottle of beer: ¬1.60
Financial Times newspaper: ¬2.40
36-exposure colour film: ¬6.20
City-centre bus ticket: ¬1.10
Adult football ticket: ¬8-¬30
Three-course meal with wine/beer: From ¬25

1 Euro (¬1) = £0.68; US$1.19; C$1.39; A$1.56
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005