World City Guide

Restaurants

The selected restaurants have been divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments.

Sydney has a Goods and Services Tax (GST) of 10%. It is highly unlikely that the GST would be added to the bill as an extra at the end and menus will usually state: ‘Prices include GST’. However, on public holidays, many establishments add a 15% service charge to the bill. Tipping is still far from obligatory in Sydney but good service should be rewarded with a gratuity of up to 10%. If the service has been unsatisfactory, it is not necessary for diners to tip.

The prices quoted below are for an average three-course meal for one and a bottle of house wine or equivalent; they include the GST but do not include a service charge or tip. Many restaurants in Sydney are unlicensed but operate a BYO (Bring Your Own) policy. This, including the relevant corkage fee, is listed below.

Gastronomic

Catalina Rose Bay
Catalina Rose Bay is a must for lovers of seafood and ocean views – every year, the Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race begins under the very noses of its patrons. The wrap-around glass windows compliment a fresh, nautical décor. Japanese and Spanish influences alternate over a range of fish and shellfish creations that melt in the mouth, such as crépinette of crab and snapper and sea scallops with smoked quail. Sydney’s current fascination with pork is represented in a terrine of roast pork with crackling served on diced mango. The food’s presentation rivals the architectural elegance of this terrific restaurant. Closed Sunday night.

1 Sunderland Avenue, Rose Bay
Tel: (02) 9371 0555. Fax: (02) 9371 0559.
E-mail: reservations@catalinarosebay.com.au
Website: www.catalinarosebay.com.au
Price: A$85. Wine: A$40.

Guillaume at Bennelong
The only Sydney restaurant that is also a world architectural icon, Guillaume at Bennelong is the smallest of the three soaring structures making up the Opera House. Jørn Utzon’s vision has been fulfilled in this vaulted room, with exposed concrete rafters or ‘ribs’. Chocolate tones and amber lighting create a warm and sensual space. Under the direction of Guillaume Brahini, a three-Michelin-starred chef, the restaurant’s menu embraces local produce cooked with French techniques, such as ballotine of ocean trout, roasted Glenloth chicken on ravioli of duck foie gras, and his signature dish, basil-infused tuna with mustard seed vinaigrette. Local dining doesn’t get much more glamorous than this, although booking well ahead is essential. Closed Sunday. A three-course pre-theatre menu, available from 1730–1900, is good value at A$65.

Sydney Opera House, Bennelong Point
Tel: (02) 9241 1999. Fax: (02) 9241 3795.
E-mail: enquiries@guillaumeatbennelong.com.au
Website: www.guillaumeatbennelong.com.au
Price: A$78. Wine: A$40.

Quay
Quay won the Sydney Morning Herald’s ‘Restaurant of the Year’ award for the second year in 2004. Tastefully decorated in a sombre palette of pastels and greys, it’s famous for world-beating views of both the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge – diners should try to reserve a table in the Tower section, which has 320° harbour views. Noted for his geometric presentation, chef Peter Gilmore’s offerings include mud crab stuffed zucchini flower and ravioli of braised quail. Patrons should be sure to leave room for dessert, as the five-textured Valrhona chocolate cake is heavenly.

Overseas Passenger Terminal, West Circular Quay
Tel: (02) 9251 5600. Fax: (02) 9251 5609.
E-mail: info@quay.com.au
Website: www.quay.com.au
Price: A$95. Wine: A$55.

Salt
A fugue of white plastic and metal, Salt contrasts severity of design with sumptuousness of menu. Imaginative combinations are chef Luke Mangan’s forte: roasted venison with corn custard and chocolate sauce is a recent talking point. Game, such as tempura of quail or roasted rabbit loin, is another speciality in a venue that has attracted gourmands and serious business folk (as well as the achingly hip) since opening in 1999. Closed Sunday and Monday.

The Kirketon, 229 Darlinghurst Road, Darlinghurst
Tel: (02) 9332 2566. Fax: (02) 9332 2530.
E-mail: info@saltrestaurant.com.au
Website: www.saltrestaurant.com.au
Price: A$90. Wine: A$40.

Tetsuya’s
Tetsuya Wakuda’s name is the alpha and omega of Australian haute cuisine and his 12-course dégustation menu of Japanese/French delights is something no serious gourmand can visit the continent without trying (bookings must be made well in advance). His beautiful restaurant, ranked 13th best in the world by Restaurant magazine, is done up in a modern Japanese style with dark wood and chocolate carpet, Arne Jacobsen chairs and calming glimpses of a Japanese garden. The set menu consists of small dishes, such as the now famous confit of Tasmanian ocean trout with ocean trout roe, as well as lobster ravioli with seaweed vinaigrette and shellfish essence or double-cooked deboned spatchcock with braised daikon (a variety of radish) and bread sauce. Closed Sunday and Monday.

529 Kent Street
Tel: (02) 9267 2900. Fax: (02) 9262 7099.
Website: www.tetsuyas.com
Price: A$175. Wine: A$35.

Business

Bayswater Brasserie
More than one ex-Prime Minister has been spotted at this Kings Cross stalwart which for 22 years has kept abreast of Sydney dining trends without losing its friendly, elegant atmosphere. The menu is modern Mediterranean with highlights such as roast fig and prosciutto tartlet, braised lamb shanks, and a decadent blue swimmer crab lasagne. Features include a leafy outdoor dining area, an oyster bar and cocktail bar, where the imbibing continues well into the early hours on weekends.

32 Bayswater Road, Kings Cross
Tel: (02) 9357 2177. Fax: (02) 9358 1213.
E-mail: brasserie@ozemail.com.au
Website: www.bayswaterbrasserie.com.au
Price: A$60. Wine: A$35.

Edna's Table
When the craving for emu tartare, crocodile sushi or kangaroo fillet gets too much, Edna’s Table beckons. Comfortable modern decor, Aboriginal artworks and authentic bush ingredients, including bunya nuts, Kakadu plum and eucalyptus oil, contribute to Edna’s truly unique style. A Native Australian dégustation menu is also offered with a selection of Australian wines for A$135. Located in the CBD, this restaurant is perfect for visiting business folks who want to try something a bit different, and sample native meats (and atmosphere).

204 Clarence Street
Tel: (02) 9267 3933. Fax: (02) 9264 9002.
E-mail: ednas@acay.com.au
Website: www.ednastable.com.au
Price: A$70. Wine: A$30.

Longrain
A meal at Longrain is like a visit to the halls of Valhalla – its converted warehouse space has long wooden dining tables, polished floorboards and a Scandinavian ambience, despite the modern Thai menu. The food is fit for demigods – betel leaves topped with trout roe and crispy Barossa chicken are two of the highlights. Lunch is served Monday to Friday 1200-0230 but dinner bookings are not taken, so arrival before 1930 is advised. However, the bar is a stylish place in which to wait and the ‘stick drinks’ (crushed fruit cocktails) go down a treat.

85 Commonwealth Street, Surry Hills
Tel: (02) 9280 2888. Fax: (02) 9280 2887.
E-mail: info@longrain.com.au
Website: www.longrain.com.au
Price: A$60. Wine: A$35.

The Summit
Claiming to be the world’s largest revolving restaurant, The Summit has 360-degree views of Sydney, retro-futuristic design based on the space station in the movie 2001: A Space Odyssey, and a good-times atmosphere. The menu is more than adequate, if a tad overpriced, with such dishes as grilled snapper fillet, venison loin baked in pastry and seafood risotto. A seafood buffet is available for Sunday lunch and dinner, costing A$62.

Level 47, Australia Square, 264 George Street
Tel: (02) 9247 9777. Fax: (02) 9251 2539.
E-mail: summit-rec@accor-hotels.com
Website: www.summitrestaurant.com.au
Price: A$75. Wine: A$30.

Sushi e
Do not be fooled into believing the ubiquitous conveyor belt sushi bars are all that Sydney has to offer in the raw fish department. Part of The Establishment complex (see Bars), Sushi e is a world-class sushi bar ideal for both a quick business lunch or a protracted gourmet evening. The 28-seat bar is contemporary in design with marble-top counters and a warm dark wood ambience. Chef Shaun Presland offers a constantly evolving menu but there are must-haves such as the soft shell crab rolls and the wafer-thin snapper sashimi topped with a lime and sea salt dressing. A rich Balmain bug (crayfish) tempura is another highlight.

Level 4, 252 George Street
Tel: (02) 9240 3041. Fax: (02) 9240 3001.
Website: www.merivale.com
Price: A$80. Wine: A$38.

Trendy

Bill’s
There’s no better start to a Sydney day than a Bill’s breakfast – ricotta hotcakes with honeycomb butter, famously creamy scrambled eggs (acclaimed by the New York Times), towering muffins and fresh fruit platters. A large communal table is covered with magazines and, thanks to recent renovations, there are enough extra tables for everyone. Lunch is also available, with items ranging from a spicy squid salad to a fillet steak sandwich, and in 2004 Bill’s finally opened for dinner as well (Monday to Saturday): try the crisp free-range chicken with sautéed cavolo nero.

433 Liverpool Street, Darlinghurst
Tel: (02) 9360 9631. Fax: (02) 9360 7302.
E-mail: bills@billsfood.com.au
Price: A$55. Wine: BYO ($6 corkage per bottle).

Fratelli Paradiso
Be sure to brush up your Italian and dress in your best La Dolce Vita blacks. Fratelli Paradiso is where the smart inner-city set converge for cucina Italiana the way it’s meant to be. The risotto is plain and perfectly al dente; rings of calamari Sant’Andrea are lightly fried and superbly tender; and there’s a luscious lasagne al forno with parmigiano. Featuring a mural of Rolling Stones lips eating pasta, the restaurant encompasses a pasticceria, and the cakes and pastries are every bit as lip-smacking as the savouries.

12-16 Challis Avenue, Potts Point
Tel: (02) 9357 1744. Fax: (02) 9357 1244.
Price: A$55. Wine: A$31.

Icebergs Dining Room & Bar
Icebergs caused a sensation when it opened in Bondi in late 2002. Built on top of the old Bondi Icebergs swimming club, the venue raised the bar for drinking and dining in the beachside suburb. Offerings include neo-Mediterranean dishes, such as the signature warm salad of King Island crayfish with kipfler potatoes and fresh peas, or Umbrian truffles with hand-cut tagliatelle. Icebergs is also a feast for the eye, from the blue banquette seating and polished aluminium screens designed by renowned Australian architect Carl Pickering, to the jaw-dropping views straight across the famous beach and out over the Pacific. Closed Monday.

1 Notts Avenue, Bondi Beach
Tel: (02) 9365 9000. Fax: (02) 9365 9099.
E-mail: idrb@idrb.com
Website: www.idrb.com
Price: A$75. Wine: A$35.

XO
Chef Neil Perry is renowned for simple but perfectly executed Asian cuisine and his moderately priced venture, XO, is no exception. The fried salt squid is crunchy and spicy, the duck in tamarind sauce tender and sweet and the combination omelette falls open to reveal crisp sprouts and fresh prawns. There’s also an ever-changing sashimi menu. The restaurant reopened in 2004 in premises formerly occupied by MG Garage, with a fresh contemporary design and a private dining room for up to 30 people. No bookings are taken, except for groups of over six, but the stylish bar serves a mean Beetroot Martini and smiling staff will look after patrons until a table is free. Closed Sunday.

490 Crown Street, Surry Hills
Tel: (02) 9360 7007. Fax: (02) 9360 7005.
E-mail: xo@rockpool.com
Website: www.rockpool.com
Price: A$55. Wine: A$25.

Yellow
In the early 1970s the ‘Yellow House’ was a bohemian hangout for hippies, celebrities and artists such as Brett Whiteley. Relaunched in 2003 as apartments and a gallery, the premises are also home to this top-flight bistro where an unpretentiously great fish and chips can be enjoyed alongside a superb confit of duck leg with sweet potato purée. Pastrycook Lorraine Godsmark’s date tart comes highly recommended.

57-59 Macleay Street, Potts Point
Tel: (02) 9357 3400. Fax: (02) 9357 3433
Price: A$55. Wine: A$30.

Budget

Arthur’s Pizza
Nothing satiates the hunger after a day’s shopping in the chi-chi boutiques of Paddington like a big traditional pizza or pasta at Arthur’s Pizza. All the classics are served here, along with unusual combinations such as duck sausage with provolone and potato. If the place is full (and it often is) staff are prepared to come and fetch patrons from the pub next door when a table becomes free. Jim Jarmusch film posters fittingly adorn a restaurant that is dark but cheery.

260 Oxford Street, Paddington
Tel: (02) 9331 1779.
Price: A$32. Wine: BYO (corkage A$1.50 per person).

BBQ King
Peking duck hangs in the window and it is Peking duck that attracts the crowds to the authentic if slightly tatty BBQ King on the northeastern border of Chinatown. Open until 0200, the menu includes a superb suckling pig and plenty of out-there Chinese delicacies. Frills are not to be expected, although a great meal can.

18-20 Goulburn Street
Tel: (02) 9267 2586. Fax: (02) 9267 2001.
Price: A$32. Bottle of beer: A$6.

Bill & Toni’s
The word ‘institution’ doesn’t really cut it for this cheery East Sydney trattoria that has been offering pasta, schnitzel, meatballs and not a whole lot else for a quarter of a century. Big baskets of bread and orange cordial are free, while coffee in the downstairs café is probably the best and most potent in Sydney.

74 Stanley Street, East Sydney
Tel: (02) 9360 4702.
Price: A$20. Wine: BYO (free corkage).

Chinta Ria The Temple of Love
A gigantic Buddha forms the centrepiece to this large-scale Malaysian eating experience in Cockle Bay Wharf. A shrine to good, inexpensive laksa (a spicy sour soup) and noodles, the restaurant serves them up in a carnival atmosphere of chattering diners and steaming woks.

Level 2, 201 Sussex Street
Tel: (02) 9264 3211. Fax: (02) 9264 1411.
Website: www.cocklebaywharf.com/chinta.html
Price: A$40. Wine: A$25.

Harry's Cafe de Wheels
Not a restaurant but a waterfront meat pie stand, Harry’s has been serving the Aussie staple of pies with peas, mash and gravy to sailors, hoodlums and late-night party casualties since 1945. Consequently, it has become a tourist attraction, decorated with photographs of famous visitors – including, oddly enough, Colonel Sanders. And the pies? Bloody good tucker, mate. Harry’s is open until 0400 Friday and Saturday.

Cowper Wharf Road, Woolloomooloo
Tel: (02) 9357 3074.
E-mail: inquiries@harryscafedewheels.com.au
Website: www.harryscafedewheels.com.au
Price: A$4 (per pie). Wine: Unlicensed.

Personal Recommendations

Manna
Sometimes you want the vaunted Sydney cuisine without the Sydney attitude. That’s when a trip down Parramatta Road to this cosy bistro is a welcome respite. A former corner shop opposite a sleepy park, decked out with a mish-mash of old chairs, Manna has adept staff whose laid-back welcome puts you in exactly the right mood for a quartet of lightly seared scallops topped with crunchy string chips. Follow it up with a classic prawn, garlic and chilli linguini and round it off with a tangy ice-cream terrine and you’ll likely agree that Manna is a godsend. Closed Monday.

Corner West and Station Streets, Petersham
Tel: (02) 9568 4644.
Website: www.mannarestaurant.citysearch.com.au
Price: A$50. Wine: A$20.

Oh! Calcutta!
Despite the vaudevillean name, Oh! Calcutta! won the Sydney Morning Herald’s ‘Best Indian Restaurant’ award, eight years in a row (1995-2003). Why? A captivating menu of unusual dishes from North India, Afghanistan, Pakistan and northwestern China; the best local produce and exotic meats from camel and goat to kangaroo and crab; stylish mosque-meets-minimalism design; and a charming host.

251 Victoria Street, Darlinghurst
Tel: (02) 9360 3650. Fax: (02) 9331 3701.
Website: www.ohcalcutta.com.au
Price: A$50. Wine: A$32.

Oscillate Wildly
Oscillate Wildly offers a high-quality dining experience at absurdly cheap prices. Tucked away just off the boho bustle of King Street, Newtown, this tiny art deco dining room serves up modern Australian fare, such as wild barramundi with pancetta and red wine butter, and some of the best value desserts in town. The service is expert, even if the one waiter is rushed off his feet at times.

275 Australia Street, Newtown
Tel: (02) 9517 4700. Fax: (02) 9517 4733.
E-mail: oscillatewildly@ozemail.com.au
Price: A$40. Wine: BYO (corkage A$3 per person).

Thai Pothong
King Street, Newtown seems to have more Thai restaurants than Bangkok does but Thai Pothong is the biggest and the best for value. Standards, such as chicken cashew nut and tom yung soup, are as good as they come, the service is swift and attentive and the restaurant is filled with the constant buzz of people who know they are eating well at a very reasonable price. The restaurant has a graceful East Asian style, with soft lighting complimenting a collection of Thai antiques, pretty parasols and flower arrangements.

294-298 King Street, Newtown
Tel: (02) 9550 6277. Fax: (02) 9519 8050.
Price: A$35. Wine: A$20.

Wasavie
An intimate Japanese restaurant with a Francophile bent, Wasavie boasts sashimi served with a ‘hot rock’ for self-service searing, and a slice of caramelised pork belly so tender you can dismantle its juicy flesh with chopsticks. There’s also a range of delicious dessert mousses. Like many of Sydney’s new ‘gastro-budget’ eateries, Wasavie does not take bookings after 1900. Closed Monday.

8 Heeley Street, Paddington
Tel: (02) 9380 8838. Fax: (02) 9380 7955.
E-mail: wasavie@saqura.com
Price: A$40. Wine: BYO (corkage A$3 per person).