World City Guide

Celebrated as the ‘Queen of the Pacific Rim’, vast, vibrant Sydney is home to one of the world’s most beautiful harbours, with the imposing Opera House as the jewel in its crown.

The State capital of New South Wales, Sydney is a thriving centre for both business and the arts. The city has all the cosmopolitan amenities – top shopping, excellent restaurants and buzzing nightlife. Carved between the mountains and the sea, it also offers the ultimate in the great outdoors. The Pacific Ocean swells onto golden beaches, while a seasonally shifting palette of colours unfolds further inland over the Blue Mountains. In addition to the harbour, famously adorned with sailing boats that mirror the distinctive curves of the Opera House, there are numerous inland waterways and national parks.

From its sordid beginnings as a British penal colony in 1788, Sydney rapidly flourished, establishing booming trade links and witnessing large-scale development throughout the 19th and 20th centuries. The Sydney Opera House (a feat of avant-garde architectural vision) epitomises the city’s desire to lead the New World in the 21st century. Sydney’s architecture is a stunning melange, with little Victorian structures nestling below towering concrete, steel and glass skyscrapers.

All the exuberance and plate-glass sophistication nonetheless fail to compensate for a certain competitive edginess in the city’s psyche. After the Australian Federation was created in 1901, the traditional bickering between Sydney and its arch rival, Melbourne, was settled in 1908, by making Canberra the new national capital. However, until 1927, when the city of Canberra was completed, Melbourne remained the seat of national government. Nevertheless, Sydneysiders insist that their city remains the ‘true’ capital of Australia and indeed, with a triumphant hosting of the 2000 Olympic Games, the world might even agree with this. But the rivalry with Melbourne persists – a rivalry based more on style than on stature for, while Sydney is decidedly Anglo in its ethnic orientation, Melbourne is more continental, with a much more tangibly imported culture. To Melbourne, Sydney will always be hedonistic and shallow, just as to Sydney, Melbourne will always be grey and intellectual.

Australia’s white history has eclipsed its indigenous inheritance and, although Sydney has the highest Aboriginal population of any Australian city, a stroll around the city’s streets offers little evidence that it has anything other than a white (and latterly, an Asian) heritage. While museums, galleries, theatre and dance troupes pay tribute to the archaeological and cultural legacy of indigenous culture, Aborigines in the city remain very much an invisible minority.

With the Olympics, Sydney came of age as one of the world’s great cities. The games’ smooth running has been attributed to the thousands of local volunteers, whose helpful, welcoming attitude revealed (much to Sydney’s own surprise) that beneath its somewhat vain and self-seeking surface there still exists a bedrock of traditional Australian virtues. But the Games did more than affect the city’s mindset: they transformed its physical appearance. Streets and public areas were remodelled, long-neglected eyesores were removed and new street furniture erected, resulting in a city centre that is more pleasant and easier to navigate than ever before. Combine that with semitropical summers and mild winters and the result is an excellent city to visit at any time of the year.

Getting There By Air

Sydney (Kingsford Smith) Airport (SYD)
Tel: (02) 9667 9111. Fax: (02) 9667 1592.
Website: www.sydneyairport.com.au

Situated on the northern shoreline of Botany Bay, Sydney Airport is Australia’s premier gateway, handling 24.3 million passengers per year, arriving on flights from 53 international, domestic and regional airlines.

Major airlines: Qantas (tel: (02) 9691 3636 or 131 313, Australia only; website: www.qantas.com.au) is the national airline. Other major airlines include: Air Canada, China Airlines, Air New Zealand, Alitalia, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Emirates, Garuda, Japan Airlines, Korean Air, Lauda Air, Malaysia Airlines, Singapore Airlines, South African Airways, Thai Airways, United Airlines and Virgin Blue.

Approximate flight times to Sydney: From London is 20 hours 10 minutes; from New York is 20 hours 25 minutes; from Los Angeles is 14 hours 40 minutes and from Toronto is 19 hours 30 minutes.

Airport facilities: Sydney Airport’s international terminal (T1) is well equipped with restaurants, cafés, bars and a food hall, as well as information desks, lockers, a health care centre, money changing facilities, ATMs, prayer room, showers and two smoking lounges. There are hotel reservation facilities and car hire from Avis, Budget, Hertz and Thrifty.

Business facilities: Sydney Airport Executive Services (tel: (02) 9667 6534; fax: (02) 8338 4922; e-mail: bookings@syd.com.au; website: www.execservices.com.au) hires out meeting rooms in terminal one and terminal two, as well as VIP rooms in terminal one and a conference area in terminal two. Equipment and catering are supplied on request. Post, fax and photocopying facilities are available at the Australia Post Shop (tel: (02) 9669 1564), while Internet kiosks can be found throughout the international terminal. There are also seven airline lounges.

Arrival/departure tax: Departure, security and baggage screening taxes amounting to A$120.33 are included in the price of the ticket.

Transport to the city: The CityRail Airport Link (tel: 131 500; website: www.cityrail.nsw.gov.au) operates every 10 minutes to and from Central Station, daily 0510–2345 (journey time – 10 minutes). Fares are A$17.30 return or A$11.80 one way. Taxis to the city centre cost A$22-30.

Getting There By Water

Passenger services dock at Darling Harbour Passenger Terminal, located a short walk from the city centre, while cruise ships berth at the Sydney Cove Passenger Terminal, Circular Quay. There are no facilities at the terminals, although the nearby Rocks and Darling Harbour both have restaurants, ATMs and other conveniences. Information is available from the Department of Shipping (tel: (02) 9296 4999; website: www.sydneyports.com.au).

Ferry services: There is probably no more dramatic way for one to arrive in Sydney than by water. However, services to Australia are limited. From Europe, the USA and Hong Kong, P&O (tel: 132 469, Australia only; fax: (02) 8424 9161; e-mail: information@pocruises.com.au; website: www.pocruises.com.au) and Cunard (tel: (02) 9250 6666; website: www.cunardline.com.au) include Sydney on their itineraries.

Transport to the city: There are frequent bus, ferry and CityRail connections from both Circular Quay and Darling Harbour.

Getting There By Road

Driving regulations are not uniform across Australia’s states and territories, so visitors should be aware that the laws in Sydney might differ from states outside New South Wales.

Driving in Australia is on the left and the speed limit outside built-up areas is generally 100kph (62mph) or 110kph (68mph) on freeways. In built-up areas, the speed limit is 60kph (37mph) unless otherwise indicated. Wearing of seatbelts is compulsory in the front and rear. Roads are usually known by their names (for example, the Hume Highway) although motorways are also identified by a corresponding number.

The legal driving age in New South Wales is 16 years. Overseas driving licences are acceptable, although an International Driving Permit is preferred. Licences must be carried when driving. Visitors are required to take out minimum third-party insurance for driving both their own cars and hire cars. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.05%, which is enforced with random breath tests and curbed by severe penalties.

Visitors who plan to drive in the more remote outback areas should contact one of Australia’s motoring organisations beforehand, to obtain maps and advice on road and weather conditions, supply points and spare parts to be carried, as these regions are occasionally affected by excessively wet or dry weather. The Australian Automobile Association (tel: (02) 6247 7311; e-mail: aaa@aaa.asn.au; website: www.aaa.asn.au) provides further information. The National Roads and Motorists’ Association – NMRA (tel: 131 122; website: www.mynrma.com.au) also provides information and motoring services.

Emergency breakdown service:
NRMA Emergency Breakdown 131 111

Routes to the city: The main routes into Sydney are the Hume Highway (heading northeast from Melbourne), the Pacific Highway (south from Brisbane), the scenic Princes Highway (north from Melbourne via the coast) and the Sturt Highway (linking Adelaide on the west coast to Sydney on the east coast).

Approximate driving times to Sydney: From Melbourne – 11 hours; Brisbane – 13 hours 30 minutes; Adelaide – 18 hours.

Coach services: Operators include Greyhound Pioneer (tel: 132 030, Australia only or (07) 4690 9888 or (02) 9212 3433; e-mail: info@greyhound.com.au; website: www.greyhound.com.au) and McCafferty’s (tel: 131 499, Australia only or (07) 4690 9888 or (02) 9212 3433; e-mail: info@mccaffertys.com.au; website: www.mccaffertys.com.au), offering routes to many destinations throughout the country, including Brisbane, Canberra, Adelaide and Melbourne. Buses depart from Sydney Coach Terminal, Eddy Avenue, outside Central Station (tel: (02) 9281 9366).

Getting There By Rail

The New South Wales rail network is run by Countrylink (tel: 132 232, Australia only; fax: (02) 9379 1264; e-mail: bookings@countrylink.nsw.gov.au; website: www.countrylink.nsw.gov.au). Countrylink provides high-speed XPT trains and XPlorer trains for shorter distances. These trains are new, modern and comfortable, featuring air conditioning, wheelchair access, buffet, toilets and satellite telephones. Seats are modelled on the French TGV and there is one sleeping car per journey, with cabins equipped with private bathrooms. Rail travel tends to be expensive, although a number of passes are available to overseas visitors.

Sydney’s Central Station, on Eddy Avenue, just south of the city centre, is a grand old building lined with newsagents, coffee shops and restaurants, as well as transport and tourist information offices.

Rail services: Popular inter-state destinations include Melbourne (journey time – 10 hours), Brisbane (journey time – 12.5 hours), Adelaide (journey time – 26 hours) and Perth (journey time – 64 hours).

Transport to the city: Central Station directly connects to the CityRail line.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Sydney’s mass transit system, incorporating bus, ferry and various rail services, is well developed, efficient and cheap. The Transport Infoline (tel: 131 500 (Australia only); website: www.131500.com.au) provides route, timetable and fare information for all buses, ferries and trains.

State Transit (tel: 131 500 (info line) or (02) 9245 57777; e-mail: info@sydneybuses.nsw.gov.au; website: www.sydneybuses.nsw.gov.au) operates Sydney’s buses. Buses run daily 0600-2400 and night buses operate on selected routes thereafter. Fare starts at A$1.60 for inner-city journeys and is available for purchase from the driver.

Sydney Ferries (website: www.sydneyferries.nsw.gov.au) runs the commuter ferry network that crisscrosses Sydney Harbour. Ferries ply between Circular Quay and approximately 30 destinations, daily 0600-2400. Fares start at A$4.50 and tickets are available for purchase at ticket offices and machines located at the ferry stops or, if there is no office or machine, on board.

CityRail (website: www.cityrail.info) operates the network of trains designed primarily for rapid transit between the suburbs and the city. The stops are not necessarily very convenient for tourists, who tend to remain within the city centre. Trains generally operate daily 0430-0100 with varying times on the different routes and a limited service or no service on some routes on the weekend. Fares start at A$2.20 and tickets are available for purchase from the railway stations.

Connex Sydney (tel: (02) 9285 5600; fax: (02) 9267 4846; e-mail: info@connexsydney.com.au; website: www.metrolightrail.com.au) operates the monorail and light rail services. The monorail shuttles between the city centre, Darling Harbour and the Chinatown areas, operating every 3 to 5 minutes Monday to Thursday 0700-2200, Friday and Saturday 0700-2400 and Sunday 0800-2200. Fares are A$4. The light rail service operates 24 hours between Central Station and Star City and Sunday to Thursday 0600-2300 and Friday and Saturday 0600-2400 between Central Station and Lilyfield. Fares start at A$2.80 and tickets are available for purchase on the trains.

Numerous money-saving passes are available, including the SydneyPass – a three-, five- or seven-day pass costing A$100, A$130 and A$150 respectively. This pass allows unlimited travel on public buses, harbour ferries, the Sydney Explorer bus and the Bondi Explorer bus as well as the three sightseeing cruises operated by the State Transit authority and train travel within the red (city and inner suburban) travel pass zone. A return trip on the AirportLink train is also included. Passes are available for purchase from TransitShops at Circular Quay and Wynyard Station and from the Sydney Visitor Centre, 106 George Street, The Rocks. The colour-coded TravelPass, valid for one week or more, allows for unlimited travel on public transport within a designated area. A weekly red bus, ferry and train TravelPass, for example, costs A$32.

A DayTripper pass is valid for travel on all regular buses, ferries and metropolitan area trains and costs A$15. A TravelTen bus pass is valid for 10 bus journeys and starts at A$11.80. A FerryTen ticket is valid for 10 ferry trips and starts at A$28.50.

There are also travel passes for the Sydney Metro. The Monorail Supervoucher Day Pass gives a full day of unlimited use for A$9, while the Metro Light Rail Day Pass costs A$8.40 and the Weekly Unlimited Trips Pass is A$20. A METROConnect pass is A$28 and allows for unlimited travel on both the light rail and monorail for one week.

All passes are available for purchase from the railway and bus stations, as well as from newspaper stands on bus routes.

Taxis
Taxi ranks can be found outside most bus and railway stations, as well as the larger hotels. The initial charge is A$2.65 and a 3km (2 mile) trip costs approximately A$7.25 Fares are subject to surcharges for telephone bookings, crossing the Harbour Bridge and using certain parts of the Eastern Distributor, where toll systems operate. Travel between 2200 and 0600 costs an extra 20%. Taxi drivers do not expect a tip, although fares are generally rounded up to the nearest dollar. Operators include Taxis Combined Services (tel: (02) 8332 8888; website: www.taxiscombined.com.au) and Premier Cabs (tel: 131 017, Australia only; website: www.premiercabs.com.au).

Limousines
Chauffeur-driven limousines are available for trips around Sydney, with an optional commentary. Operators include First National Limousines (tel: (02) 9948 2728) and Astra Chauffeured Limousines of Australia (tel: 132 121 (Australia only); website: www.astralimousines.com.au). Collection from the airport to the city costs from A$66.

Driving in the City
The construction of a new road network for the 2000 Olympic Games left many Sydney routes vastly improved. The Eastern Distributor tunnel, for instance, has made driving to the airport a breeze. The Cross-City Tunnel, due to open in late 2005, will help reduce city congestion by enabling travel from Kings Cross to Darling Harbour, under the CBD. Nevertheless, Sydney drivers are renowned for speed and intolerance and parking is invariably difficult and/or expensive.

Parking restrictions are clearly signposted and usually specify an hour or two of metered parking during business hours. There are ‘clearway’ zones that apply at certain times of day and vehicles will be towed away and impounded if they are found parked there during the times indicated. It is probably easiest for visitors to park in one of the car parks situated around the city centre and take public transport from there. A convenient central car park is the Queen Victoria Building (QVB) Car Park in York Street. Metered parking generally costs A$2.40 per hour, while parking stations in the city can charge up to A$50 per day on weekdays.

Car Hire
A national driving licence printed in English is required for driving in Sydney, although some hire firms prefer an International Driving Permit. The minimum age for hiring a car is often 25 years. Minimum third-party insurance is required. Hire rates for a small car start from approximately A$68 per day.

Major operators include Avis (tel: (02) 9353 9033 or 136 333 (Australia only); website: www.avis.com.au), Budget (tel: (1300) 362 848 or 132 727 (Australia only); website: www.budget.com.au), Hertz (tel: (1800) 550 067 or 133 039 (Australia only); website: www.hertz.com.au) and Thrifty (tel: (1300) 367 277; website: www.thrifty.com.au).

Bicycle Hire
Sydney’s many steep hills do not make for a leisurely ride and there are limited (and often dangerous) designated cycle lanes. Manly has better paths for cycling but best of all is the popular Centennial Park. Hire companies include Woolys Wheels, 82 Oxford Street, Paddington (tel: (02) 9331 2671; website: www.woolyswheels.com), and Inner City Cycles, 151 Glebe Point Road (tel: (02) 9660 6605; website: www.innercitycycles.com.au). Hire rates start from about A$39 for 24 hours.

Business

Business Profile
Thanks to the Olympic Games, Sydney’s tourism soared in 2000, generating revenue from tourism-related businesses across the board to the tune of an estimated A$7 billion. The publicity that Sydney has received as a tourist destination as a result of the Olympic Games has been valued at more than A$600 million. The event undoubtedly helped boost Sydney’s profile in the corporate world and the city is now seen as a genuine contender with Singapore and Hong Kong as a financial hub in the Asia-Pacific region. In 2002, the Australian Stock Exchange was ranked 12th largest internationally in terms of size and 19th in terms of turnover. The Olympic Games, together with a falling Australian Dollar, also contributed to a 26% rise in Australian exports. Between 1994 and 2001, Sydney’s economic growth rate exceeded 5%. The city’s unemployment rate, however, rose to 4.7% at the end of 2003, from 4% in 1999. However, this was still low compared to the national rate, which stood at 5.4% at the end of 2003.

Sydney plays a major part in Australia’s economy, accounting for over 25% of Australia’s total economic activity. The city is Australia’s undisputed financial centre, with 65% of Australia’s finance industry located here, including the Reserve Bank, the Australian Stock Exchange and the Sydney Futures Exchange. The strong economic mix encompasses services, manufacturing and mining – with financial, property and retail services together accounting for over 80% of total economic output. Financial and business services accounts for 47.1% of the city’s workforce. Multinationals with Asian-Pacific headquarters here include 3M, American Express, AMP, Boral Ltd, BT, Coca-Cola Amatil, HJ Heinz, IBM, Microsoft, Mastercard, Price Waterhouse Coopers, TNT Ltd, Unilever and Vodaphone. Of the nation’s top 100 companies, 60% have headquarters in Sydney.

The financial district is centred on Martin Place in the city centre. North Sydney, on the other side of the harbour, is a bustling high-rise business district in itself.

Business Etiquette
In keeping with its distinctly work-hard, play-hard culture, the protocol in Sydney is typically informal. During the week, business is often conducted over a long lunch, with alcohol included, and the weekend can start as early as Friday lunchtime. Both men and women usually wear suits. Business hours are officially weekdays, 0900-1700, although an extended working day is very common in certain sectors and it is not unusual for people to be working well into the night or over the weekend.

Australians are a very friendly people and socialising comes easily. Nevertheless, there are a few things that may offend or annoy. The first is the use of the informal ‘G’day’ – foreigners should avoid trying to emulate this overused greeting. The second is that, while out drinking, a system of ‘rounds’ is observed and it is not appreciated when someone skips his or her round by not offering to pay. Gift giving is not a common practise, although a small token (such as chocolate, wine or flowers) is appropriate if invited to a home. If at a loss for conversation topics, sport is always a good choice.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Who can argue with the claim that Sydney has the most magnificent harbour in the world? Its intricate coastal geography of headlands and secluded bays is the stunning setting for two of the modern world’s most ambitious architectural achievements – the Sydney Opera House and the Sydney Harbour Bridge. It is therefore hardly surprising that much tourist attention is focused on the harbour, with the revived cobbled charm of The Rocks, the perpetual motion of people arriving and departing Circular Quay and the enduring awe that visitors experience at the steps of the Opera House.

But behind these modern monoliths, there is a wealth of history, culture and tradition. In inner-city Sydney, Macquarie Place and Macquarie Street are characterised by their imposing Victorian banking chambers and municipal buildings, while further afield, the areas of Kings Cross, Darlinghurst and Paddington are thriving cosmopolitan communities, each with their own distinct character. Kings Cross, renowned more for its red light district, has a bustling café society, while Darlinghurst comes alive every March for the world-famous Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras Parade. Paddington has a more genteel feel, with its fashionable restaurants, galleries, antique shops and restored Victorian terraces complete with wrought-iron lace verandahs.

Tourist Information
Sydney Visitor Centre
106 George Street, The Rocks or 33 Wheat Road, Darling Harbour
Tel: (02) 9240 8788 or (1800) 067 676 (Australia only). Fax: (02) 9241 5010.
E-mail: visitorinformation@shfa.nsw.gov.au
Website: www.sydneyvisitorcentre.com
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1730.

Passes
The All Day Pass & Tower & Aquarium package from Captain Cook Cruises incorporates entry to Sydney Aquarium, Sydney Tower and a hop-on, hop-off harbour cruise departing from Circular Quay. Tickets are available from any of these attractions and cost A$59.

The Darling Harbour Super Ticket, costing A$62 and available at the Sydney Aquarium, includes entry to the Sydney Aquarium and the Chinese Garden, Matilda Rocket Harbour cruise, a monorail ride, a meal at the Aqua Bar and Grill, discount entry to the Powerhouse Museum and IMAX Theatre and discount travel on the People Mover train.

Combined ferry and attraction admission passes are available from the Sydney Ferries ticket office at Circular Quay. For example, the A$33.50 Zoo Pass includes return ferry and bus transport to Taronga Zoo, entry to the zoo and an aerial cable ride.

Key Attractions

Sydney Opera House
In April of 1966, the architect of the Sydney Opera House, Jørn Utzon, left Australia, never to return. His grand architectural vision was only half completed, but arguments with the State government over the spiralling cost of the project meant that the interior complex of auditoria, theatres, restaurants and bars was completed by other architects. In spite of its compromised genesis, the building instantly became a world icon on opening in 1973. Utzon has never seen the completed building but in recent years has collaborated on a A$70 million interior refurbishment that will bring the building closer to his original vision – including a 14-metre long tapestry that was installed in September 2004. The four main auditoria (the Concert Hall, the Playhouse, the Opera Theatre and the Drama Theatre) stage a total of 3,000 performances per year.

Bennelong Point
Tel: (02) 9250 7111. Fax: (02) 9251 3843.
E-mail: infodesk@sydneyoperahouse.com
Website: www.sydneyoperahouse.com
Transport: CityRail, ferry or bus to Circular Quay; bus 438 to Opera House steps.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (tours); Mon-Sat 0900-2030 (box office), plus two hours before Sun show.
Admission: Free; A$23 (front-of-house tour); A$140 (backstage tour).

Sydney Harbour Bridge
Not to be outdone by the imposing grandeur of the Opera House, the Sydney Harbour Bridge is, in its own right, a feat of engineering genius. Affectionately known as ‘the Coathanger’, it took 1,400 workers (16 of whom perished in the process) eight years to complete the bridge, which opened in 1932. If the views from the Pylon Lookout across Sydney Harbour and over the Opera House are not spectacular enough, the Bridge Climb gives thrill-seekers the chance to walk to the top of the 50-storey-high bridge (over the cars and trains rumbling across the deck below) and down the other side. Paul ‘Crocodile Dundee’ Hogan, a bridge-painter in a former lifetime, was one of the first to climb the bridge.

Pylon Museum and Lookout
Access from stairs via Cumberland Street
Tel: (02) 9240 1100. Fax: (02) 9241 2151.
E-mail: pylonlookout@bridgeclimb.com
Website: www.pylonlookout.com.au
Transport: CityRail or ferry to Circular Quay.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.
Admission: A$8.50; concessions available.

Bridge Climb
5 Cumberland Street
Tel: (02) 8274 7777. Fax: (02) 9240 1122.
E-mail: admin@bridgeclimb.com
Website: www.bridgeclimb.com
Transport: CityRail or ferry to Circular Quay.
Opening hours: Daily 0700-2000.
Admission: A$160-225; concessions available.

The Rocks
Nestled at the foot of the Sydney Harbour Bridge, The Rocks (Sydney’s historical birthplace) is a neighbourhood of winding streets, sandstone cottages and some of Sydney’s oldest pubs. The site of the first landing from Plymouth in England, in 1788, the area is now a busy tourist enclave, with cafés, restaurants, galleries, museums and countless souvenir shops. Among the district’s historic buildings are the Hero of Waterloo inn (built over a tunnel that was originally used for smuggling), the Sydney Observatory (on the site of the colony’s first windmill), Cadman’s Cottage (Sydney’s oldest building, built in 1816) and Susannah Place (a museum of working-class life). Other attractions include the Museum of Contemporary Art and The Rocks Toy Museum.

The Rocks, Sydney Harbour
Transport: CityRail or ferry Circular Quay.

Sydney Observatory
Watson Road, Observatory Hill
Tel: (02) 9217 0485. Fax: (02) 9217 0489.
E-mail: observatory@phm.gov.au
Website: www.sydneyobservatory.com.au
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.
Admission: Free; A$6 (day tour); A$15 (night tour); concessions available.

Cadman’s Cottage
110 George Street
Tel: (02) 9247 5033/8861.
Website: www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0930-1630; Sat and Sun 1000-1630.
Admission: Free.

Museum of Contemporary Art
140 George Street
Tel: (02) 9252 4033.
Website: www.mca.com.au
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.
Admission: Free (some special exhibitions charge entrance).

The Rocks Toy Museum
2-6 Kendall Lane
Tel: (02) 9251 9793.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1715.
Admission: Free.

Susannah Place Museum
58-64 Gloucester Street
Tel: (02) 9241 1893.
Opening hours: Sat and Sun 1000-1700.
Admission: A$7; concessions available.

Darling Harbour
A former dockside area, this small harbour has been transformed into a major tourist site. The vast, paved and landscaped recreation ground is packed with restaurants and shops, as well as a number of tourist attractions. These include the Powerhouse Museum, Australian National Maritime Museum, Sydney Aquarium, IMAX Theatre and the Chinese Garden of Friendship, a gift to Sydney from its sister city of Guangdong in China.

Darling Harbour
Website: www.darlingharbour.com
Transport: CityRail Town Hall; monorail Darling Park or Harbourside; ferry Darling Harbour.

Powerhouse Museum
500 Harris Street
Tel: (02) 9217 0111.
Website: www.phm.gov.au
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.
Admission: A$10; concessions available; some special exhibitions charge an extra entrance fee.

Australian National Maritime Museum
2 Murray Street
Tel: (02) 9298 3777.
Website: www.anmm.gov.au
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700.
Admission: Free.

Sydney Aquarium
Aquarium Pier
Tel: (02) 8251 7800.
Website: www.sydneyaquarium.com.au
Opening hours: Daily 0900-2200.
Admission: A$25; concessions available.

IMAX Theatre
Tel: (02) 9281 3300.
Website: www.imax.com.au
Opening hours: Daily 1000-2300.
Admission: A$16 for 2D films, A$17 for 3D; concessions available.

Chinese Garden of Friendship
Tel: (02) 9281 6863.
E-mail: edgarm@shfa.nsw.gov.au
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700.
Admission: A$6.

Bondi Beach
Bondi is one of the world’s most perfect beaches, a white crescent of sand strung between two rocky headlands, situated just 15 minutes from the city centre. The waterfront scene, with its street musicians, surf shops and bars is ideal for a summer evening’s prowl or a lazy saunter past Campbell Parade’s restaurants, cafés and Sunday markets. Topless sunbathing is tolerated and swimmers should stick to the patrolled areas of North Bondi or Bondi Baths, on the southern rocks. The coastal walk takes in the whole gamut of beach cultures, from the wild surf and gleaming bodies at Tamarama to the palm-fringed views of Bronte and the soothing sea pools at Coogee.

Campbell Parade, off Bondi Road
Website: www.voyeurmagic.com.au
Transport: Bus 380, 382 or L82; CityRail Bondi Junction and then bus 380; ferry from Circular Quay to Rose Bay and then bus 380.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

Art Gallery of New South Wales
Featuring the Yiribana Gallery, the world’s largest permanent exhibition of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art, the Art Gallery of New South Wales is one of Australia’s foremost art museums. Among its most impressive exhibitions is its Australian art collection, extending from the early colonial period to the mid-20th century. The recently completed Asian Galleries showcase the gallery’s significant Asian collection and touring exhibitions. Shortlisted portraits in the Archibald Prize (Australia’s most prestigious art award) are exhibited here annually.

Art Gallery Road, The Domain
Tel: (02) 9225 1700. Fax: (02) 9221 6226.
E-mail: artmail@ag.nsw.au
Website: www.artgallery.nsw.gov.au
Transport: CityRail Martin Place/St James; bus 441.
Opening hours: Thurs-Tues 1000-1700; Wed 1000-2100.
Admission: Free (some special exhibitions charge entrance).

Sydney Tower
Standing 250m (820ft) above Market Street, Sydney Tower is the city’s tallest building, with views over the city, the Harbour, the Olympic Park and as far as Terrigal Beach, 100km (62 miles) to the north. Entry to the observation deck includes the Skytour – a 35-minute virtual tour/ride on the podium level.

Podium Level, 100 Market Street
Tel: (02) 8251 7800. Fax: (02) 9223 0233.
Website: www.sydneyskytour.com.au
Transport: CityRail St James/Town Hall; monorail City Centre.
Opening hours: Sun-Fri 0900-2230, Sat 0900-2330.
Admission: A$22; concessions available.

Royal Botanic Gardens
A short walk from the Opera House, the Royal Botanic Gardens sits on a slope overlooking the harbour and covers 30 hectares (74 acres) in the heart of the city. Established in 1816, it is Australia’s oldest scientific institution and home to over one million specimens. Highlights include the Sydney Tropical Centre and the Rose Garden; there is a hop-on hop-off trackless train to get around them all.

Macquarie Street (main entrance)
Tel: (02) 9231 8111. Fax: (02) 9251 4403.
E-mail: feedback@rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au
Website: www.rbgsyd.gov.au
Transport: CityRail St James, Martin Place or Circular Quay.
Opening hours: Daily 0700-sunset.
Admission: Free.

Sydney Olympic Park
Built on the site of an old rubbish tip, the focal point of the ‘best ever Olympics’ in 2000 is now an attraction in its own right, comprising 15 architecturally magnificent venues as well as extensive parks and wetlands. Separate guided tours of the venues are given and a self-guided tour brochure is available from the Visitor Gateway or from the website.

1 Herb Elliot Avenue, Homebush Bay
Tel: (02) 9714 7888 or 131 500 (Australia only) (bus rides). Fax: (02) 9714 7822.
E-mail: info@sopa.nsw.gov.au
Website: www.sydneyolympicpark.com.au
Transport: Train to Strathfield, then bus 401 or 404; train to Olympic Park; ferry from Circular Quay to Sydney Olympic Park Terminal then bus 401 or 404.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (Visitor Gateway).
Admission: Free.

Telstra Stadium
Olympic Boulevard, Gate C
Tel: (02) 8765 2300 (tours).
Opening hours: Daily 1030-1530.
Admission: A$26 (60-minute tour), A$15 (30-minute tour); concessions available.

Observation Centre
Level 17, Novotel Hotel, Olympic Boulevard
Tel: (02) 8762 1111.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1600.
Admission: A$4.40; concessions available.

Sydney Aquatic Centre
Olympic Boulevard
Tel: (02) 9752 3666.
Website: www.sydneyaquaticcentre.com.au
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0500-2045, Sat-Sun 0600-1845.
Admission: A$18.50 (tour and swim); A$6 (swim only); concessions available.

Bicentennial Park
Bennelong Road
Tel: (02) 9714 7888.
Opening hours: Daily sunrise to sunset.
Admission: Free.

Taronga Zoo
The most desirable residence in Sydney is inhabited not by the upper echelons of society but by a collection of seals, snow leopards, koalas, kangaroos and wallabies. Taronga Zoo’s location, on Bradley’s Head, at Mosman, is one of the most beautiful vantage points on Sydney Harbour, situated on elevated land along the waterfront. The zoo is home to over 350 different species of animals, ranging from old time favourites such as elephants, gorillas, giraffes, orangutans and so on, to more bizarre representatives of the animal kingdom such as the platypus (an animal so odd-looking that when settlers first came across it, they thought it was a hoax) and the echidna. There are keepers’ talks and shows throughout the day, and the sky safari (little cable cars going over the zoo to give a bird’s eye perspective) is extremely popular.

Bradleys Head Road (main entrance)
Tel: (02) 9969 2777. Fax: (02) 9969 7515.
E-mail: tz@zoo.nsw.gov.au
Website: www.zoo.nsw.gov.au
Transport: Ferry from Circular Quay; bus 247.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700.
Admission: A$27; concessions available.

Fox Studios Australia
Fox Studios generated the principal photography of The Matrix Trilogy (1999/2003), Moulin Rouge (2001), Star Wars Episode II: Attack of the Clones (2002) and Star Wars Episode III: Revenge of the Sith (2005). The adjoining entertainment precinct includes shops, markets, cinemas, restaurants, mini golf, bungy trampoline and an indoor children’s playground.

Lang Road, Moore Park
Tel: (02) 9383 4333. Fax: (02) 9383 4005.
E-mail: fox_studios@gandel.com.au
Website: www.foxstudios.com.au
Transport: Bus 272, 290-299, 355, 372-377, 391, 393 or 395.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-2400.
Admission: Free.

Further Distractions

Further Distractions
Rose Seidler House
The designs for Australia’s first modernist home, Rose Seidler House, so appalled local residents they almost succeeded in preventing the building’s construction. Created by the great Canadian/Australian architect Harry Seidler for his parents, the concrete house has glass walls, a sun-filled deck and panoramic views of Ku-ring-gai National Park. The house has been restored to its original scheme, with 1950s furnishings and objects.

71 Clissold Road, Wahroonga
Tel: (02) 9989 8020. Fax: (02) 9487 2761.
E-mail: info@hht.net.au
Website: www.hht.nsw.gov.au/museums/rose_seidler_house
Transport: Train to Wahroonga.
Opening hours: Sun 1000-1700.
Admission: A$7; concessions available.

Centennial Parklands
A grand park in the European tradition, the Centennial Parklands features landscaped gardens, statues, historic monuments and houses, ponds, formal gardens, wildlife habitat areas and grand avenues. There is a restaurant, café and facilities for every active pursuit under the sun.

Southeast of the city, bordering Paddington, Moore Park and Bondi Junction
Tel: (02) 9339 6699. Fax: (02) 9332 2148.
E-mail: info@cp.nsw.gov.au
Website: www.cp.nsw.gov.au
Transport: Bus 378, 380, 382 or L82 to Paddington/Woollahra Gates, bus 357 or 359 to Musgrave Avenue Gates, bus 355 to Jervois/Robertson Road Gates or bus 339 or 340 to Randwick/Govett Gates.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
The Rocks Self-guided Tour leaflet is available from the Sydney Visitor Centre (see Tourist Information) for A$1 and covers approximately 30 historic buildings and points of interest in The Rocks district. The heritage walk takes one to three hours, beginning at the Visitor Centre (a former sailor’s home) and ending at Cadman’s Cottage. The Rocks Walking Tours (tel: (02) 9247 6678; website: www.rockswalkingtours.com.au) operates 90-minute guided tours, taking in all the historic sites. Tours cost A$19 and depart three times per day (twice per day on the weekend and in January) from 23 Playfair Street.

Bus Tours
City Sightseeing Sydney (tel: (02) 9567 8400; e-mail: sydney@citysightseeing.com.au; website: www.city-sightseeing.com) covers 22 points of interest in the city, Kings Cross, Woolloomooloo and Darling Harbour, with a hop-on, hop-off service. Departures are every 30 minutes daily 0845–1745. Tickets cost A$30 and are valid for 24 hours.

Hosted by drag queens, the Sydney By Diva (tel: (02) 9360 5557; e-mail: reservations@sydneybydiva.com; website: www.sydneybydiva.com) tour is a comedic expedition of Sydney as seen through the queer eye. Setting off from outside the Oxford Hotel in Taylor Square (scene of the demonstrations that launched Mardi Gras in 1978) every Sunday at 1700 (also every Friday at 1800 October-March), the three-hour tour costs A$80 (first class) and A$60 (economy).

Other Tours
There is a plethora of harbour cruises available from a number of operators; many of them based at Circular Quay. Captain Cook Cruises (tel: (02) 9206 1122; e-mail: cruise@captaincook.com.au; website: www.captaincook.com.au) offers the luxury ‘Sydney 2000 Dinner Cruise’, departing daily at 1900 from No 6 Circular Quay, ending at 2130 (2230 on Friday and Saturday). The A$99 fee includes an a la carte three-course meal with coffee (wine is extra). The ‘Sydney Harbour Explorer’ (costing A$25) and ‘Harbour Highlights Cruise’ (costing A$20) are fully narrated cruises, leaving from No 6 Circular Quay, with a fixed number of stopping points. The ‘Sydney Harbour Explorer’ tour takes 2 hours and departures are every 2 hours daily 0945–1530. The ‘Harbour Highlights Cruise’ takes between 75 and 90 minutes; tours depart approximately once every 105 minutes daily 0930–1930. Magistic Cruises (tel: (02) 8296 7222; e-mail: res@magisticcruises.com.au; website: www.magisticcruises.com.au) is another reliable company offering similar cruises for similar prices.

For aerial views of Sydney, Australia By Air (tel: (02) 9982 9666; website: www.australiabyair.com.au) offers a one-hour ‘Sydney Scenic Flight’ in a twin-engine aircraft. Flights depart Sunday, Wednesday and Friday and cost A$195, which includes complimentary hotel pick-up (at 0930) and drop-off. The ‘Sydney and Mountains Scenic Flight’ includes all of the above plus flight over the Blue Mountains. It costs A$295 and lasts 90 minutes.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Manly: New South Wales has Manly Beach to thank for its sea and surf culture, for it was here, in 1902, that newspaper editor William Gocher first defied the state law against public bathing. The esplanade is now populated with rollerbladers, joggers and cyclists, while the white sand of the south beaches and the golden sands of the north beaches are crowded with swimmers, sunbathers and surfers. A short ferry ride from Circular Quay, Manly (located 13km (8 miles) northeast of the city centre) can also be reached on foot via the Manly Scenic Walkway from Spit Bridge in the city. The walk can take up to four hours but offers some of Sydney’s most breathtaking views, as well as skirting some of its most exclusive homes. The Manly Visitors Information Bureau, North Steyne, Manly (tel: (02) 9977 1088; website: www.manlytourism.com) can provide further information.

For a Whole Day

Blue Mountains: A 90-minute drive west from the city, along the Great Western Freeway, the dramatic, forest scenery of the Blue Mountains National Park is a major attraction for nature lovers. The cool eucalyptus (gum tree) forests harbour numerous bush-walks as well as radiate a blue haze that gives the area its name. More active visitors might like to go abseiling, rock climbing, mountain biking or horseriding. The area’s most famous attraction is the Three Sisters – a geological feature named after an Aboriginal legend. The easiest way for visitors to see the Blue Mountains is by car, although there are hourly trains to Katoomba from Central Station. Blue Mountains Tourism (tel: (1300) 653 408; website: www.bluemts.com.au) can provide further information.

Hunter Valley: One of Australia’s premier wine-producing districts, beginning approximately 100km (62 miles) north of Sydney, ‘The Hunter’ has more than 70 vineyards. Although busiest during the harvest months of March and April, most vineyards remain open to the public on a daily basis and offer a range of tours, restaurants and accommodation. Two of the more popular vineyards are Lindemans (one of the largest Australian wine companies) and Rothbury Estate, famous for its concerts throughout the March/April Harvest Festival, which is an annual celebration of Australian culture, gastronomy and wine. A two-hour drive from Sydney, Cessnock is the gateway to Hunter Valley and Pokolbin, 5km to the north, is home to its main visitor centre. Alternatively, trains from Sydney arrive at Newcastle (journey time – approximately 3 hours). Wine Country Tourism (tel: (02) 4990 4477; website: www.winecountry.com.au) can provide full details of tours.

Sport

Sydney’s acres of coastline and parkland make it a dream destination for sports enthusiasts and lovers of the great outdoors. During the summer, Bondi shows off the bodies beautiful of surfers, rollerbladers and sunbathers. The region boasts some of the world’s top surfing conditions and the best beaches for beginners are Manly, Curl Curl, Freshwater or North Bondi. Surf aficionados in search of bigger waves should head for the beaches of North Narrabeen, South Maroubra, Newport, South Bondi and Queenscliff.

Waves aside, the ocean pools offer swimmers a spectacular alternative to chlorinated lanes. Scuba divers are also well served, with a number of local marine parks. For the international yachting set, Sydney Harbour is the starting point for one of the biggest fixtures of the year, the 2,000km (1,240-mile) Sydney to Hobart race.

Australians adore cricket and Sydney is no exception. The cricket season (October to March) includes Test and World Series Cup matches at the Sydney Cricket Ground, Driver Avenue (tel: (02) 9360 6601; website: www.sydneycricketground.com.au). During the rugby and football season (March to September) soccer games, rugby league and rugby union matches are held at the Aussie Stadium, Moore Park (tel: (02) 9360 6601; website: www.aussiestadium.com.au). Sydney’s Aussie Rules football team, the Sydney Swans (website: www.sydneyswans.com.au), plays at the Sydney Cricket Ground and enjoys considerable support.

Tickets to sporting events are available from Ticketek (tel: (02) 9266 4800; website: www.ticketek.com).

Bush-walking: The national parks in and around Sydney offer some spectacular bush-walks. Routes and information can be obtained from Sydney Harbour Parks (tel: (02) 9247 8861) or the National Parks and Wildlife Service (tel: (02) 9585 6444; website: www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au).

Fitness Centres: Body-conscious Sydney has a proliferation of gyms, including City Gym, 107 Crown Street (tel: (02) 9360 6247), Gold’s Gym, 23 Pelican Street (tel: (02) 9264 4496), and Bayswater Fitness, 33 Bayswater Road, Kings Cross (tel: (02) 9356 2555). Single entry at these centres cost A$15, A$20 and A$15 respectively.

Golf: The Lakes Golf Club, corner of King Street and Vernon Avenue, Mascot (tel: (02) 9669 1311), is among Sydney’s most exclusive golf courses. Non-members are welcome on Monday and Thursday. Other clubs include Marrickville Golf Club, Wharf Street (tel: (02) 9558 1876), and St Michael’s Golf Course, Jennifer Street, Little Bay (tel: (02) 9311 0621). Both these clubs are open to the public on selected days and times, including daily afternoon public play. Green fees for 18 holes start at approximately A$20 and can rise to over A$100 at private clubs.

Rollerblading: Rollerbladers are part of the scenery in Sydney, especially at Manly Beach and Centennial Park. Blades and protective clothing can be hired at Manly Blades, 2/49 North Steyne, Manly (tel: (02) 9976 3833; website: www.manlyblades.com.au), and Centennial Park Cycles, 50 Clovelly Road (tel: (02) 9398 5027; website: www.cyclehire.com.au).

Scuba Diving: Sydney has good visibility and some colourful local marine parks, which are ideal for snorkelling and scuba diving. Operators include Pro Dive Travel, 478 George Street (tel: (02) 9281 5066; website: www.prodive.com.au), and Sydney Dive Academy, 462 Bunnerong Road, Matraville (tel: (02) 9311 0708; website: www.sydneydive.com.au).

Squash: The Surry Hills Squash Centre, 525 Crown Street (tel: (02) 9699 9222; website: www.hiscoes.com.au), is centrally located.

Surfing: Outfits such as Let’s Go Surfing, 128 Ramsgate Avenue, North Bondi (tel: (02) 9365 1800; website: www.letsgosurfing.com.au), and Sydney Safe Surf, The Pavilion, Marine Parade, Maroubra (tel: (02) 9311 2834; website: www.safesurfschools.com.au), provide courses for beginners.

Swimming: The beaches at Coogee, Avalon, Clovelly and Austinmer have ocean pools. The site of many dramatic Olympic moments, the Sydney International Aquatic Centre, Homebush Bay (tel: (02) 9752 3666; website: www.sydneyaquaticcentre.com.au) is open for public bathing. The underground Cook & Phillip Park Aquatic Centre, 4 College Street (tel: (02) 9326 0444; website: www.cookandphillip.com.au), features Olympic pool, wave pool and hydrotherapy bath, right in the city centre.

Tennis: There are plenty of tennis courts all over Sydney. Central ones include North Sydney Tennis Centre, 1a Little Alfred Street (tel: (02) 9371 9952), Rushcutters Bay Tennis Centre, 7 Waratah Street (tel: (02) 9357 1675), and Jensen’s Tennis Centre, Prince Alfred Park, Surry Hills (tel: (02) 9698 9451).

Windsurfing: Balmoral Windsurfing, Sailing and Kayaking School is located at 2 The Esplanade (tel: (02) 9960 5344; website: www.sailboard.net.au).

Yachting: Every weekend, Sydney Harbour is dotted with the sails of hundreds of yachts. Sydney Harbour Escapes (tel: (02) 9328 4748; website: www.sydneyharbourescapes.com.au) provides further information for those wishing to join in.

Shopping

The city’s flagship department stores are David Jones, 86-108 Castlereagh Street, gentlemen’s emporium Gowings, corner of Market Street and George Street, which dates back to 1868, and the down-to-earth Myer, 436 George Street.

Castlereagh Street is considered Sydney’s designer row, although this does not take account of prestige stores in Chifley Plaza, 2 Chifley Square, and the MLC Centre, 19-29 Martin Place. There are shopping malls galore and two splendid Victorian arcades: the Strand, 412-414 George Street, and the palatial Queen Victoria Building, 455 George Street, also known as QVB. Market City, Thomas Street, Haymarket, has factory outlets and traditional markets.

An impressive homegrown stable of fashion designers has established Sydney as a regional fashion capital, reaching both the Asian and the US markets. Among the most popular designers are Paris Fashion Week regular Collette Dinnigan, 33 William Street, Paddington, and Lisa Ho, 2a-6a Queen Street.

For gifts with a local flavour, the most exquisite gourmet foods can be found at Simon Johnson Quality Foods, 55 Queen Street, Woolahra, Aboriginal artefacts at Coo-ee Aboriginal Art, 31 Lamrock Avenue, Bondi Beach, and the trendiest of board gear at Surfection, shop 2021, 500 Oxford Street.

It is worth exploring the length of Oxford Street, just to experience the variety of shopping genres, from the camp end at Darlinghurst, past the small fashion stores of Paddington and on into Woollahra and the top-of-the-range antique shops in and around Queen Street. Further still into Bondi Junction leads to Westfield Bondi Junction, a quality shopping complex featuring international designer fashion stores, department stores and specialist stores for every conceivable need.

Darling Harbour, Chinatown and The Rocks historic district are teeming with souvenir and craft shops. The Rocks is also the place for shoppers to pick up gems from the major Australian opal fields. The Rocks Opal Mine, 13 Clocktower Square, and Flame Opals, 119 George Street, both have good selections of stones, as does the downtown Gemstone Boutique, 388 George Street. For pearls from the northwest coast of Australia, Paspaley Pearls, 142 King Street, has some world-class examples.

There are markets at Balmain, Bondi Beach and The Rocks but perhaps the one with the strongest local flavour is the Sydney Fish Market, open daily 0700-1600, in Pyrmont, offering over 100 species of the freshest seafood, sushi bars and fish cafés.

Shop opening hours are generally Monday-Saturday 0900-1800, with late-night shopping until 2100 on Thursday. Increasingly, shops are opening on Sunday. There is a 10% Goods and Services Tax (GST), which is included on the price tags. There are several duty-free shops in the city centre, as well as at the airport. Shoppers must show their passport and onward ticket on collection of goods.

Culture

Sydney’s cultural life is uniquely diverse, from high classical at the Sydney Opera House to the most cutting-edge contemporary and experimental performance art. The Opera House is the major focus of attention for classical music, opera, theatre and dance.

Cultural productions and events are listed in ‘Metro’, the Friday edition entertainment section of the Sydney Morning Herald (website: www.smh.com.au). Further listings and information are provided online (website: www.sydney.citysearch.com.au).

Tickets are available for purchase from Ticketek (tel: (02) 9266 4800; website: www.ticketek.com) and Ticketmaster7 (tel: 136 100, Australia only; website: www.ticketmaster7.com). The Halftix booth, 91 York Street (tel: (02) 9261 2990; website: www.halftix.com.au), offers reduced price tickets on the day of the show.

Music: The Sydney Opera House, Bennelong Point (tel: (02) 9250 7111; website: www.sydneyoperahouse.com), is the premier performance venue for classical music. The Sydney Symphony (tel: (02) 9334 4600; website: www.sydneysymphony.com), the Sydney Philharmonia Choirs (tel: (02) 9251 2024; website: www.sydneyphilharmonia.com.au), Opera Australia (tel: (02) 9319 1088; website: www.opera-australia.org.au) and the Australian Chamber Orchestra (tel: (02) 8274 3800; website: www.aco.com.au) hold most of their performances at the Opera House.

The Eugene Goossens Hall, ABC Ultimo Centre, Harris Street (tel: (02) 8333 1500), tends to be used for smaller performances, as does Sydney Town Hall, 483 George Street (tel: (02) 9265 9189; website: www.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au), and City Recital Hall, Angel Place (tel: (02) 8256 2222; website: www.cityrecitalhall.com). The Conservatorium of Music, Macquarie Street (tel: (02) 9351 1222; website: www.usyd.edu.au/su/conmusic), hosts symphony, wind and chamber concerts as well as jazz big bands.

Theatre: The Sydney Theatre Company (tel: (02) 9250 1777; website: www.sydneytheatre.com.au) is the city’s stylish flagship theatre company. Performances take place at the Wharf Theatres, Pier 4, Hickson Road (tel: (02) 9250 1700), the brand new Sydney Theatre, 22 Hickson Road (tel: (02) 9250 1999; website: www.sydneytheatre.org.au) and the Opera House, Bennelong Point (tel: (02) 9250 7111; website: www.sydneyoperahouse.com). Acting luminaries, such as Geoffrey Rush and Cate Blanchett, have performed at the highly respected Belvoir Street Theatre, 25 Belvoir Street (tel: (02) 9699 3444; website: www.belvoir.com.au). The Performance Space, 199 Cleveland Street (tel: (02) 9698 7235; website: www.performancespace.com.au), and the Seymour Theatre Centre, Cleveland Street and City Road (tel: (02) 9351 7940; website: www.seymour.citysearch.com.au), are the main venues for more left-field contemporary performance.

Musicals are staged at the Capitol Theatre, 13 Campbell Street (tel: (02) 9320 5000; website: www.capitoltheatre.com.au), the State Theatre, 49 Market Street (tel: (02) 9373 6852; website: www.statetheatre.com.au), and the Lyric Theatre, Star City, Pirrama Road, Pyrmont (tel: (02) 9657 8500; website: www.lyrictheatre.com.au). Newer Australian playwrights stage their work at the Stables Theatre, 10 Nimrod Street (tel: (02) 9250 7799; website: www.griffintheatre.com.au). Sydney’s longest established theatre is the Ensemble, 78 McDougall Street, Kirribilli (tel: (02) 9929 0644; website: www.ensemble.com.au).

Dance: The Australian Ballet (tel: 1300 369 741; website: www.australianballet.com.au) performs mainly traditional pieces during its summer and winter season at the Sydney Opera House, Bennelong Point (tel: (02) 9250 7111; website: www.sydneyoperahouse.com). Similarly, the Sydney Dance Company (tel: (02) 9221 4811; website: www.sydneydance.com.au), the city’s leading contemporary dance group, performs at the Opera House for two seasons per year. The Bangarra Dance Theatre, Pier 4/5 Hickson Road (tel: (02) 9251 5333; website: www.bangarra.com.au), performs a fusion of contemporary and traditional dance at various venues throughout the city. The company also tours extensively, both nationally and internationally.

Film: The city’s central cinemas, situated near Town Hall, have all merged into the 17-screen Village Greater Union Hoyts George Street, 505 George Street (tel: (02) 9273 7431; website: www.hoyts.com.au). Fox Studios Australia, Lang Road, Moore Park (tel: (02) 9383 4333; website: www.foxstudios.com.au), is home to two cinema complexes – Hoyts (tel: (02) 9332 1300), which includes the luxury La Premiere cinema (tel: (02) 9332 1663), and the arthouse, Cinema Paris (tel: (02) 9332 1633). Other arthouse cinemas include the Academy Twin, 3a Oxford Street (tel: (02) 9361 4453; website: www.palace.net.au), home to the Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras Film Festival (tel: (02) 9332 4938), the Chauvel, Paddington Town Hall (tel: (02) 9361 5398; website: www.chauvelcinema.com.au), and the Art Deco Hayden Orpheum, 380 Military Road (tel: (02) 9908 4344; website: www.orpheum.com.au). First-run movies open on Thursday and discount night is on Tuesday.

The Sydney Film Festival (tel: (02) 9280 0511; website: www.sydneyfilmfestival.org) takes place every year in June, with most screenings in the magnificent marble auditorium of the State Theatre, 49 Market Street (tel: (02) 9373 6852; website: www.statetheatre.com.au). Makers of short films enter Tropfest (tel: (02) 9368 0434; website: www.tropfest.com) every February/March, with finalists shown on open-air screens set up in the Domain – a large park on the fringe of the city centre.

Notable films set or partially set in Sydney include Peter Weir’s The Last Wave (1977), P J Hogan’s Muriel’s Wedding (1993), Stephan Elliot’s The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert (1993), Ray Lawrence’s Lantana (2001) and Andrew Stanton and Lee Unkrich’s animated feature Finding Nemo (2003).

Cultural Events: Sydney Festival, held in January, features open-air concerts and theatre from around the world, alongside Sydney’s best. The Biennale of Sydney, held from May to July of even-numbered years, is an international contemporary art festival held in conjunction with the Museum of Contemporary Art and the Art Gallery of New South Wales. Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras is a month-long festival in February/March, which is famous for its colourful parade along Oxford Street, attracting over half a million spectators every year. Royal Easter Show is a traditional 12-day show that brings farm life to the city during April. The Festival of the Winds is Australia’s largest kite-flying competition, held annually in September at Bondi Beach. Manly Jazz Festival, held on the Labour Day long weekend in October, is Australia’s largest, longest and best-known jazz festival, featuring traditional, big band, fusion, pop and contemporary jazz. Sleaze Ball, a fundraiser for the Mardi Gras Festival, is also held on the Labour Day long weekend in October. Up to 16,000 gay and lesbian revellers dress to a theme and party all night at Fox Studios.

Literary Notes: ‘One of the finest, most beautiful, vast and safe bays the sun had ever shone upon,’ wrote inveterate traveller Joseph Conrad in 1906. Sydney Harbour continues to inspire eulogies from writers, including Miles Franklin who, in 1946, wrote: ‘A month would not be long enough to imbibe such beauty.’ More recently, Clive James, the writer, satirist, broadcaster and critic, was rather more blunt: ‘Sydney is like Venice without the architecture but with more sea.’

Sydney’s literary luminaries include Peter Carey, who lived in the city before moving to New York, and set his Booker Prize-winning Oscar and Lucinda (1988) in 19th-century Sydney, where country girl Lucinda dreams of self-reliance and an industrial utopia. David Williamson, Australia’s most successful playwright, calls Sydney home. His Emerald City (1987) is a comedic hymn to the city’s temptations.

Patrick White, Australia’s Nobel laureate, lived in Sydney for most of his life, and passionately evoked the city’s artistic life in The Vivisector (1970). An idiosyncratic streak led Sydney-born Thomas Keneally from the priesthood to the life of a full-time novelist. He published his first novel in 1964 and was awarded the Booker Prize for Schindler’s Ark (1982).

Teenagers Gabrielle Carey and Kathy Lette wrote Puberty Blues (1979) as an exposé of the sexual rites of passage of teens at the beach suburb of Cronulla. Robin Dalton’s Aunts Up the Cross (1965) is an affectionate memoir of Kings Cross in the 1930s, while John Birmingham’s Leviathan (2000) takes a more cynical look at the city’s history of criminals, ‘razor gangs’ and corruption.

Modern Sydney receives a sanction of sorts from one of its favourite sons, world famous art critic Robert Hughes, who wrote: ‘The provinciality that seemed to characterise Australian society, and could be plainly seen in Sydney 25 years ago, is all but gone. To a striking degree, the city’s habits have softened & Sydney is no longer quite so keen on the ‘ocker’ (Pacific redneck) image of the Australian: beer gut, thongs, nasal foghorn voice and a truculent certainty that, short of Paradise itself, Australia is the only ticket and that the rest of the world only displays its inferiority by not necessarily wanting to come here.’

Nightlife

Oxford Street, the heart of Sydney’s gay area, buzzes with cafés and clubs (gay, straight and mixed) while the established red-light district of Kings Cross continues to cater for the seedier side of life. The Rocks, with its wharves and warehouses, was the original drinking heart of the city and in the early 20th century, the rowdy scene of the ritual ‘six o’clock swill’, when workers would drink as much as possible before the pubs closed at 1800. Today, the period pubs have been cleaned up for the huge tourist clientele. Drinks at the harbour-side terrace across the bay, at Bennelong Point, under the curves of the Sydney Opera House, are expensive but worth it for the views.

Sydney’s night owls are predominantly designer-clad. Bouncers at the more fashionable clubs enforce strict dress codes and ID checks. The days of the six o’clock swill are long gone – Sydney’s licensing hours are extremely relaxed. At any hour of the day or night, someone somewhere is serving drinks to anyone over the legal age of 18. The price of a drink is approximately A$4–10.

For up-to-date listings, free weekly entertainment guides Drum Media (website: www.drummedia.com.au) and 3D World (website: www.threedworld.com.au) are available at most city-centre bookshops and record stores, as is the gay and lesbian Sydney Star Observer (website: www.ssonet.com.au). The Sydney Morning Herald (website: www.smh.com.au) also carries a comprehensive entertainment guide, ‘Metro’, in the Friday edition.

Bars: The Establishment, 252 George Street, lives up to its name as Sydney’s de rigueur after-work drinking place. Chic and enormous, it incorporates the exclusive Hemmesphere cocktail lounge. Middle Bar, 383 Bourke Street, plays host to many beautiful young things. East Village, 234 Palmer Street, offers a sophisticated take on the classic Sydney pub, as does the beautiful Art Deco Civic, 388 Pitt Street. ECQ, 69 Macquarie Street, has stunning views of the Harbour Bridge – and equally as stunning prices. The Victoria Room, 235 Victoria Street, fills out its cavernous space with British colonial décor and sophisticated drinkers. The Colombian, corner of Oxford Street and Crown Street, offers the best of both worlds: straight upstairs and gay downstairs. The Stonewall, 175 Oxford Street, is another good place to start a gay night out in Sydney – there are DJs, drag shows and friendly faces galore. The Darlo Bar, 306 Liverpool Street, the Green Park Hotel, 360 Victoria Street, and the Bank Hotel, 324 King Street, are where the younger inner-city crowd converge for pool and beer.

Casinos: Star City Casino, 80 Pyrmont Street (tel: (02) 9777 90000; website: www.starcity.com.au), is a A$60-million casino, theatre, restaurant and hotel complex on the site of a former wharf. Dress code is smart-casual and the gaming section is restricted to persons who are 18 years and over. A passport or other proof of age is required.

Clubs: Sydney takes clubbing very seriously. It is always safer to dress up rather than down and be prepared to queue. Home, Cockle Bay Wharf, has four different sections featuring funk, techno, two-step and disco. Tank, 3 Bridge Lane, is part of The Establishment complex, 252 George Street (see above). The Chinese Laundry, 1 Slip Street, combines a blistering sound system with mock East Asian decor. Sydney’s well-connected society clubbers go to Cave, Pirrama Road, while the old stand-by, Q Bar, 44 Oxford Street, is a reliable choice for mid-week clubbing. Other notable venues include Soho, 171 Victoria Street, The World Bar, 24 Bayswater Road, and Gas, 467 Pitt Street. The gay dance scene revolves around Arq, 16 Flinders Street.

Comedy: Open from Tuesday to Saturday, Sydney’s premier venue showcasing local, national and international stand-up talent is The Comedy Store, Fox Studios, Lang Road (tel: (02) 9357 1419; website: www.comedystore.com.au). Monday night is comedy night at the Fringe Bar, Unicorn Hotel, 106 Oxford Street (tel: (02) 9360 3554). The Laugh Garage, located in the Agincourt Hotel, corner of George Street and Harris Street (tel: (02) 8883 1111; website: www.thelaughgarage.com), is open from Friday and Saturday.

Live Music: The Hopetoun Hotel, 416 Bourke Street, and the Annandale Hotel, 17 Parramatta Road, are the best centrally located venues for up-and-coming bands, while leading Australian and international acts perform at the Sydney Entertainment Centre, Harbour Street, the Metro, 624 George Street, and the Enmore Theatre, 130 Enmore Road. Jazz fans can find world-class performers at the Basement, 29 Reiby Place, and the Side-On Cafe, 83 Parramatta Road, Annandale.

City Statistics

Location: New South Wales, Australia.
Country dialling code: 61.
Population: 4,140,820 (metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix: 61% white Australian of European descent, 4.7% British, 3% Chinese, 2.1% New Zealand, 1.5% Vietnamese, 1.3% Lebanese, 1.2% Italian, 1% indigenous Australian, 0.9% Indian, 0.8% Greek, 22.5% other.
Religion: 30.4% Catholic, 21.9% Anglican, 4.5% Uniting Church, 4.4% Orthodox, 3.3% Presbyterian and Reformed, 2.6% Islamic, 2% Buddhist, 1.6% Baptist, 0.8% Hindu, 0.8% Jewish, 27.7% other or no religion.
Time zone: GMT + 10 (GMT + 11 from last Sunday in October to Saturday before last Sunday in March).
Electricity: 220–240 volts AC, 50Hz; flat three-pin plugs.
Average January temp: 23°C (73°F).
Average July temp: 12°C (54°F).
Annual rainfall: 1,223mm (48.2 inches).

Special Events

Sydney Festival, art, open air concerts and theatre (website: www.sydneyfestival.com.au), Jan, various venues
Sydney Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras, the world’s largest gay festival, climaxing in costume parade and all-night party (website: www.mardigras.org.au), Feb–early Mar, various venues, parade on Oxford Street
Tropfest, short film festival (website: www.tropfest.com), Feb/Mar, the Domain
Harvest Festival, wine, food and cultural festival (website: www.winecountry.com.au), Mar–Apr, Rothbury Estate, Hunter Valley
Royal Easter Show, traditional farm show (website: www.eastershow.com.au), late Mar/early Apr, Sydney Olympic Park
Mercedes Australian Fashion Week Spring/Summer, runway shows by leading Australian designers featuring international guests (website: www.mafw.com.au), May, The Rocks
Sydney Writers’ Festival, including panel discussions, lectures and readings by local and overseas authors (website: www.swf.org.au), late May, various venues
Biennale of Sydney, international art festival (website: www.biennaleofsydney.com.au), May–Jul of even-numbered years, various venues
Sydney Film Festival (website: www.sydneyfilmfestival.org), Jun, State Theatre
City To Surf, 14km (9-mile) public marathon (website: http://city2surf.sunherald.com.au), early Aug, from the corner of College Street and Park Street through the city to Bondi Beach
Sydney Design Week, celebration of design featuring exhibitions, master classes, forums and tours (website: www.sydneydesignweek.com.au), early Aug, various venues
Festival of the Winds, kite flying festival (website: www.aks.org.au), Sep, Bondi Beach
Manly Jazz Festival (website: www.manly.nsw.gov.au/manlyjazz), early Oct, Manly
Sleaze Ball, gay and lesbian theme party (website: www.mardigras.org.au), Labour Day weekend, Oct, Fox Studios
Good Food Month, food fairs, talks, workshops and markets (website: http://gfm.smh.com.au), Oct, various venues
Sculpture By The Sea, temporary art installed along the coastal walk (website: www.sculpturebythesea.com), early Nov, from Bondi to Tamarama
Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race, world-famous 2000km (1240-mile) yacht race from Sydney Harbour to Hobart, capital of Tasmania (website: www.rolexsydneyhobart.com), 26 Dec, Sydney Harbour
New Year’s Eve Party, extravagant fireworks display, 31 Dec, Sydney Harbour

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: A$1.50
33cl bottle of beer: A$2
Financial Times newspaper: A$8.50
36-exposure colour film: A$5.95
City-centre bus ticket: A$1.60
Adult football ticket: A$21.50
Three-course meal with wine/beer: A$77

1 Australian Dollar (A$1) = £0.43; US$0.76; C$0.88; ¬0.63
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005