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City Guide > East Asia > Japan > Tokyo | |
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Mini Guide of Tokyo City Overview
Tokyo, symbol of the Japanese success story, is a sprawling megalopolis on the Pacific coast of Honshu, the largest island of the Japanese archipelago. In 1590, the city was founded as Edo, the capital of the shoguns, the succession of hereditary absolute rulers of Japan and commander of the Japanese army. Edo boasted its own vibrant culture, the celebrated ‘floating world’ of pleasure quarters, theatres and cherry blossoms, immortalised in the Japanese woodblock prints of the time. Following the fall of the shoguns in 1867 (and the restoration of the power of the Emperor), the city was renamed Tokyo, the Eastern Capital, heralding its rebirth as a dynamic modern city and the showpiece of a rapidly modernising country. Despite the catastrophic 1923 earthquake and near obliteration during World War II, Tokyo was able to rise from the ashes to host the 1964 Olympics and went on to preside over the Japanese economic miracle. That this bewildering amalgamation of districts and neighbourhoods is able to function as a coherent whole is largely due to the extraordinarily efficient network of rail and underground lines that crisscross and encircle the city. These are Tokyo’s arteries, transporting legions of businesspeople, office workers and students from the suburbs and depositing them in vast stations. Two million people a day pass through Shinjuku Station alone. The towering business districts swarm with soberly dressed corporate warriors and the demure young secretaries known as ‘office flowers’. The architectural anarchy and sheer crush of humanity assaults the senses. Amid the frenzy of consumerism, brash electronics outlets are crammed next to refined upscale boutiques and hordes of giggling schoolgirls swoon over pop idols and the latest fashions in glitzy emporiums. Tokyo enjoys a temperate climate, with warm although sometimes muggy summers and mild, dry winters. The balmy spring days of April to May are the best times to visit the city. Downtown, old neighbourhoods cluster around antiquated shopping arcades and the clatter of the temple bell echoes across the rooftops. Here, the rhythms of the seasons are still observed. Tokyoites flock to ring in the New Year at the venerable Shinto shrines and springtime brings a flurry of flower-viewing parties and picnics under the cherry blossoms. Rowdy, traditional festivals punctuate the humid summers and the spirit of the old Edo also survives in the neon-bathed entertainment districts: modern-day ‘floating worlds’ of karaoke and cinemas, shot bars and bathhouses. Traditional kabuki theatre thrives alongside opera, ballet and symphonic performances, and Tokyoites are passionate about sumo, baseball and now (since Japan’s co-hosting of the 2002 World Cup) football. Another obsession, food, is well catered for in this city of 60,000 restaurants and the world’s largest fish market. From bowls of steaming ramen noodles to delicate slices of sashimi, chefs compete to offer the freshest produce, and presentation is elevated to an art form. The focus of Japan’s highly centralised government, business and financial institutions, Tokyo has been hard hit by the country’s continuing recession, bank collapses and financial scandals. Many certainties of the past appear to have been swept away, however, opinions differ widely as to the extent of the damage and what might lie ahead. Surprisingly little of this trepidation will be evident to visitors, as – on the surface, at least – Tokyo and its people remain prosperous and forward-looking. Getting There By Air Narita Airport (NRT) Tel: (0476) 322 802. Fax: (0476) 301 571. Website: www.narita-airport.or.jp/airport_e/index.html Narita Airport (also known as New Tokyo International Airport) is located 66km (41 miles) east of central Tokyo and is the main gateway to Japan, with 47 airlines operating out of its two terminals. The airport is for international flights only; all domestic flights (and China Airlines flights to Taiwan) use Haneda Airport (see below). Major airlines: JAL (tel: (03) 5460 0511; website: www.jal.co.jp/en) and ANA (tel: (03) 5435 0333; website: http://svc.ana.co.jp/eng/index.html) are Japan’s two main international airlines. Other major airlines include: Air China, Air France, Air India, Alitalia, American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Continental Ailines, Garuda, Korean Air, KLM, Lufthansa, Malaysia Airlines, Northwest, Qantas, Singapore Airlines, Thai International, United Airlines and Virgin Atlantic. Airport facilities: These include bureaux de change, ATMs, travel agent, tourist information, numerous restaurants and souvenir shops (including duty-free shopping), left-luggage service, luggage delivery service, showers and day rooms, children’s play room, clinic, post office and car hire from Avis and Hertz. Business facilities: Copy and fax facilities are available at TEI Lounge, situated both in terminal one (tel: (0476) 329 450) and in terminal two (tel: (0476) 348 781). Internet access is available in both terminals (website: www.e-airport.jp/en/p_internet/index.html). Arrival/departure tax: There is no arrival tax. The departure tax of ¥2040 is included in the airfare. Transport to the city: Japan Railway’s Narita Express (tel: (03) 3423 0111; website: www.jreast.co.jp/nex/index.htm) and Keisei Railway’s Skyliner (tel: (0476) 328 505; website: www.keisei.co.jp/keisei/tetudou/accesse) provide fast, very frequent services to the city centre 0600–2200. In addition, both companies run cheaper regular services. The journey time is 60–90 minutes and tickets cost ¥1000–3000, depending on the type of train and destination within Tokyo. Airport Limousine buses (tel: (03) 3665 7220; website: www.limousinebus.co.jp) run several times an hour 0700–2200, serving major hotels in central Tokyo, Haneda Airport and Yokohama. The journey time, depending on traffic and destination, is about 90 minutes and tickets cost approximately ¥3000. Taxis to the city centre are notoriously expensive, costing about ¥25,000. The journey time is about 90 minutes, depending on traffic. Haneda Airport (HND) Tel: (03) 5757 8111. Haneda, Tokyo’s domestic airport, is conveniently located 16km (ten miles) south of central Tokyo. Confusingly, Haneda continues to be officially known as Tokyo International Airport, despite the fact that all international flights, other than China Airlines flights to and from Taiwan and those carrying high-ranking official visitors from overseas, now use Narita Airport. Major airlines: All major domestic airlines, including JAL (tel: (03) 5460 0522; website: www.jal.co.jp/en) and ANA (tel: (03) 3490 8800; website: http://svc.ana.co.jp/eng/index.html), operate from Haneda Airport. Airport facilities: Facilities include ATMs, travel agent, restaurants and souvenir shops, left-luggage service, luggage delivery service, post office and car hire from Nissan and Toyota. Business facilities: None. Arrival/departure tax: There is no arrival or departure tax. Transport to the city: The Tokyo Monorail Co. (website: www.tokyo-monorail.co.jp/english) connects the airport to Hamamatsu-cho Station on the JR Yamanote loop line, the city’s major transport artery (journey time – 22 minutes). The monorail operates between 0500 and 2400 and tickets cost ¥470. The Keihin railway (website: www.keikyu.co.jp/english/haneda/index.html) runs to Shinagawa Station (journey time – 19 minutes) and other stations in the centre of the city, operating daily 0530–2400. The fare is ¥400. Airport Limousine buses (tel: (03) 3665 7220; website: www.limousinebus.co.jp) run to major Tokyo railway stations. Tickets cost approximately ¥1000. Taxis to central Tokyo cost approximately ¥7000. Approximate flight times to Tokyo: From London is 11 hours 40 minutes; from New York is 14 hours; from Los Angeles is 11 hours 40 minutes; from Toronto (via Chicago) is 14 hours 30 minutes and from Sydney is 9 hours 30 minutes. Getting There By Water Despite being a major port, few passenger services operate out of Tokyo. The Tokyo Ferry Port is located at Ariake, on Odaiba Island in Tokyo Bay. Facilities include a snack bar, souvenir shops and luggage lockers. Arrival and departure information is available from the Ferry Service Centre (tel: (03) 3501 0889; website: www.tptc.or.jp/eng/ferry.htm). Ferry services: There are no international ferry services from Tokyo, however, a number of long-distance car and passenger ferries connect Tokyo to Hokkaido, Shikoku, Kyushu and Okinawa. There are services from Okinawa to Taiwan, from Osaka/Kobe to China, and from Fukuoka/Hakata and Shimonoseki to Korea. Transport to the city: The Yurikamome Monorail (tel: (03) 3529 7221) runs from Ariake to Shimbashi Station on the JR Yamanote loop line (journey time – 25 minutes). Tickets cost ¥370. Getting There By Road Heavy traffic congestion tends to make travelling by car in Japan’s urban areas a slow and frustrating experience. Fortunately, excellent public transport makes driving in and between cities unnecessary. Hiring a car can, however, be an excellent way for visitors to explore the more remote country areas. Driving in Japan is not as daunting as might be expected – drivers are generally disciplined and courteous and major signs are in both Japanese and English. Expressways, which are all named (for example, The Tokaido Expressway), are toll roads that link the main cities; tolls are expensive at approximately ¥40 per kilometre. Other main roads are numbered (for example, Route 24). Traffic drives on the left and the wearing of seatbelts is compulsory. The legal driving age in Japan is 18 years for a car and 16 years for a motorbike. Both a national driving licence and an International Driving Permit are required, as is basic travel insurance. Parking can be difficult to find and is a major expense in cities and larger towns. The speed limit outside built-up areas is 50kph (31mph) and 80kph (50mph) on expressways. In built-up areas, the speed limit is usually 40kph (25mph). Driving after having consumed any amount of alcohol is illegal and penalties are severe. The Japan Automobile Federation, JAF (tel: (03) 3436 2811; website: www.jaf.or.jp/e/index_e.htm), provides an English-language ‘Rules of the Road’ booklet and JAF Road Service offers 24-hour breakdown assistance for both members and non-members. In the case of an accident, the police must be informed (tel: 110). Emergency breakdown service: JAF 8139 Routes to the city: Tokyo is linked by the Tomei–Meishin expressway to Kobe (via Nagoya, Kyoto and Osaka), by the Tohoku expressway to Sendai and northern Japan, and by the Chuo expressway to Nagano and Nagoya. Approximate driving times to Tokyo: From Nagano – 3 hours 30 minutes; Sendai – 4 hours; Nagoya – 5 hours; Osaka – 7 hours. Note that actual driving times can vary widely depending on traffic conditions. Coach services: A number of companies together offer a comprehensive network of long-distance bus services. Comfortable overnight coaches with reclining seats serve destinations such as Kyoto, Osaka and the cities of northern Honshu. Coaches leave from terminals outside Shinjuku Station, in Shinjuku, and Tokyo Station, Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku. Bookings can be made at Japan Travel Bureau, JTB (tel: (03) 5620 9500; fax: (03) 5620 9502; website: www.jtb.co.jp/eng), which has offices all over the city or at large railway stations. Getting There By Rail Japan’s extensive Japan Railways (JR) rail network provides outstandingly efficient and punctual services and (other than at rush hour and on public holidays) is a pleasure to use. Trains in the Tokyo area and northern Japan are operated by JR East (tel: (03) 3423 0111; website: www.jreast.co.jp/e/index.html), while the Shinkansen bullet trains on the Tokaido line between Tokyo and Nagoya, Kyoto, Osaka and Fukuoka are operated by JR Central (tel: (03) 5818 3510). Tokyo has several major train stations, with Tokyo Station, Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, being the city’s central hub, while Ikebukuro Station, Shibuya Station, Shinjuku Station and Ueno Station serve the suburbs. In addition to the JR network, there are a number of private rail companies operating commuter trains to Tokyo’s suburbs and an extensive and convenient network of underground lines (website: www.tokyometro.go.jp/e/index.html). All but the smallest stations have coin lockers and newspaper/snack kiosks. Shinkansen bullet trains and selected express services offer both reserved and non-reserved seats. Some trains also offer first-class ‘green car’ seats. Reservations for Shinkansen bullet trains and long-distance express services on and around national holidays should be made well in advance – from a major station. Long-distance rail travel is expensive, however, the Japan Railways Rail Pass (website: www.japantravel.co.uk/jrp.htm) offers outstanding value for money for those planning to make extensive use of the rail network. It is important to note that the pass must be purchased in advance before entering Japan and is available only to non-resident tourists. There is no national railways enquiries service and information on rail travel in Japan is provided by the individual stations and travel agents, which are equipped with the latest timetables. Rail services: All Shinkansen bullet trains depart from and terminate at Tokyo Station, from where commuter and underground trains run to all areas of the city. Shinkansen bullet trains run to northern Japan, Niigata on the Japan Sea, Nagano in the central Alps, Nagoya, Kyoto, Osaka and Hiroshima, and Fukuoka on the southern island of Kyushu. Services run several times an hour. The journey time to Kyoto and Osaka is approximately three hours and to Fukuoka six hours. Transport to the city: Tokyo Station is very centrally located in the Marunouchi/Ginza area, accessible by numerous train and underground lines including the JR Yamanote loop line. Ikebukuro Station, Shibuya Station, Shinjuku Station and Ueno Station are also all on the JR Yamanote loop line. Getting Around Public Transport Tokyo has one of the most sophisticated and efficient public transport systems in the world – a combination of an extensive train network operated by a number of private companies, 12 underground lines, bus services and several monorails. However, the service does not operate 24 hours. Nevertheless, there are many 24-hour pubs and cafés in the city and waiting for the trains to start running in the early morning is a long established tradition among the revellers wishing to avoid ruinously expensive night-time taxi fares. The Tokyo Tourist Information Office (tel: (03) 3201 3331) can provide detailed service and timetable information for all the different service providers. The complexity of the network and the sheer size of some of the stations can be rather daunting. However, public transport is very safe, even after dark, and staff and passers-by are generally quick to help confused foreigners. Despite very frequent services, trains are uncomfortably crowded during rush hours (0730–0900 and 1700–1900); trains run from approximately 0500–2400/0100. Tickets are available for purchase from vending machines located inside stations; most journeys within the centre of the city cost less than ¥200. The Tokyo Combination Ticket (Tokyo Free Kippu) is a travel pass valid for one day on all Japan Rail, underground and bus services within the city and costs ¥1580. The One-Day Open Ticket is valid on eight of the 12 underground lines and costs ¥710. Taxis Tokyo’s taxis are numerous and easily can be hailed on the street or found at taxi ranks. It is also possible for one to reserve a taxi in advance, from one of the many companies, such as Nihon Kotsu (tel: (03) 3586 2151) and Checker-Musen (tel: (03) 3573 3751). Approximately ¥500 will be charged for this service. Fares vary slightly between taxi companies but are uniformly expensive at around ¥660 for the first two kilometres (one mile), then ¥80 every 274m (900ft) thereafter. There is a 30% supplement after 2300. Tipping is not customary and could offend. Taxi drivers are very professional but rarely speak English, so it is advisable for tourists to have their destination written out in Japanese or to be able to point to it on a Japanese map. During rush hour, it is often quicker to take the train. Unoccupied taxis become scarce at around 0100, once the train services have finished. A peculiarity of all Japanese taxis is that the rear doors are operated automatically by the driver – visitors should not try to open or close the doors themselves. Limousines Hinomaru Limousine (tel: (03) 3505 1717; e-mail: mailmaster@hinomaru.co.jp; website: www.hinomaru.co.jp/indexe.html) offers a variety of luxury cars and can provide English-speaking drivers. Rates are from ¥6000 per hour, for a minimum of three hours. Driving in the City Tokyo’s public transport network and taxis are excellent and driving in the city is therefore not advised. Traffic is heavy, navigation is greatly complicated by the fact that streets rarely have names and parking is expensive and difficult to find. Car Hire The biggest car hire company, with 150 branches in the Tokyo area, is Nippon Rent-A-Car, 5–5 Kamiyamacho, Shibuya-ku (tel: (03) 3485 7196). Other companies include Avis, 3–13–19 Ginza, Chuo-ku (tel: (03) 5550 1011; website: www.avis.com) and Hertz, 1–8–21 Shiba Koen, Minato-ku (tel: (03) 5401 7651; website: www.hertz.com). Car hire in Japan costs from ¥5000 per day for the smallest class of car. Basic insurance is usually included in the price. Both a national driving licence and an International Driving Permit are required. Drivers must have held their licence for at least a year and the minimum age for hiring a car varies between 19 and 26, although is usually 21 years. Bicycle & Scooter Hire SCS, 2–1–16 Hakusan, Bunkyo-ku (tel: (03) 3827 5432), arranges scooter hire from ¥5000 per day. Bicycles often can be hired at suburban train stations for around ¥1000 per day. However, train stations in the central areas of the city do not offer this service. Business Business Profile Presiding over the world’s second largest economy, Tokyo is the governmental, financial and administrative centre of Japan. Quick to embrace modern developments and fashions, following the 1868 Meiji Restoration, Tokyo has continued to be at the forefront of trends and technology and remains the country’s most cosmopolitan city. Japan’s current drive towards economic reform and deregulation was initiated in Tokyo and it is here that these measures are having their most immediate effect. Unemployment in the city, at 4.8%, is well below the country’s 5.3% average, while per capita income is over 40% higher than in other parts of the country. The service industry is the key employer in the city, followed by construction. Most major Japanese companies have their head office in Tokyo and for foreign companies a presence in Japan generally means a presence in Tokyo. Companies in the city include Barclays Bank, Bloomberg, British Aerospace, Citibank, Hewlett Packard, IBM, Kellogg’s, Microsoft, Reuters and Unilever. The main business districts are clustered around the National Diet and Ministry buildings to the south and east of the Imperial Palace. The Metropolitan Government is located in West Shinjuku, Tokyo’s skyscraper office district. In addition to the emphasis on the service industries and administration, Tokyo is Japan’s publishing and printing centre. Meanwhile, the busy Tokyo Bay port handles a high proportion of the country’s imports and exports. Recent deregulation has eased market entry for foreign companies and increasing numbers are now entering the Japanese market. The Nippon Convention Centre, Makuhari Messe (website: www.m-messe.co.jp/index_e.html), situated halfway between the city centre and Narita Airport, and the new Tokyo Big Sight complex (website: www.bigsight.or.jp/english/index.html), in Tokyo Bay, make Tokyo Japan’s major trade fair venue. After a slow start, the Internet is now increasingly important to Japanese businesses. Hotel rooms are usually equipped with a telephone line supporting Internet use and international public telephones are equipped with modem jacks. Business Etiquette While Tokyoites are generally the most cosmopolitan of Japanese, many will be reserved in the company of foreigners, particularly when called upon to speak English. Whereas almost everyone under 50 has some basic knowledge of English, very few are able to speak fluently. Misunderstandings can easily occur and the use of professional interpreters is advised. Foreigners are not expected to understand the complexities of Japanese etiquette and allowances will be made cheerfully. However, it is worth bearing in mind that shoes must be removed upon entering homes, as well as some offices and restaurants. Also, tips are never expected – the practice is considered vulgar, as is eating while walking. Blowing one’s nose in public should also be avoided (it is, however, perfectly acceptable to sniff). Business clothes should be smart but conservative, with suits a must for both men and women. For men, grey and navy are the favoured colours – brown is looked upon with suspicion. It is probably impossible to be over dressed in Japan and business visitors can expect to be judged by their appearance. Business cards are an essential part of introductions – no one can expect to be taken seriously without them. Corporate entertaining is done mainly in restaurants and ‘izakaya’ beer halls. Invitations to the homes of business associates are unusual. Drinking (beer, whisky and sake) is very much part of the culture, as is smoking. Corporate entertaining remains largely male dominated and business travellers’ partners are rarely invited to such events. For the most part, foreign buisnesswomen tend to be treated as ‘honorary men’ and it is not unknown for them to be taken to strip clubs. There are remarkably few Japanese businesswomen. Gifts are very important – they need not be particularly large or lavish – and are exchanged with great ceremony. It is usual to refer to colleagues by their surnames and hierarchies should be respected. Business negotiations may require patience as directness is mistrusted and disliked, thus straight ‘yes’ or ‘no’ answers are generally avoided. Impatience is frowned upon and confrontation is out of the question, as it is considered a sign of gross weakness. Apologies and thanks are very important and should not be rushed. Normal business hours are 0900–1700 Monday to Friday. Sightseeing Sightseeing Overview Tokyo has few specific sights of renown. Instead, the main attraction is the opportunity to experience the life of a city that is on the surface so similar to Western cities, yet at the heart so profoundly unfamiliar. There is no main square, no central landmark or prime focus for tourists, as Tokyo is a collection of distinct areas, a conglomeration of mini-cities. Ginza’s classy boulevards and emporiums cater to the prominent and wealthy; Shinjuku, a hive of office workers by day, reinvents itself as a neon-lit entertainment wonderland at dusk; Shibuya and Harajuku offer trendy shopping, sports grounds and fine parks. Meanwhile, in the old neighbourhoods around Ueno and Asakusa, among the small houses and shops, potted plants and roadside shrines, life continues much as it has for decades. Ginza’s glitzy department stores lie less than two kilometres (one mile) from the Pacific Ocean but, curiously, Tokyo gives little feeling of being on the coast. The rapidly developing waterfront rewards the visitor with a different perspective, while an evening stroll through the bustling entertainment areas reveals yet another side to this chameleon city. Tokyo is many things – a maelstrom of rampant consumerism and oases of serenity, sensory overload and subtle beauty in detail. It’s a city rushing into the future but haunted by the past. Most of all, Tokyo is a city that works. Tourist Information Tokyo Tourist Information Center (TIC) Tenth Floor, Tokyo Kotsu Kaikan Building, 2–10–1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku Tel: (03) 3201 3331 or 3201 2911 (24-hour recorded information). Fax: (03) 3201 3347. Website: www.jnto.go.jp Opening hours: Mon–Fri 0900–1700, Sat 0900–1200. Passes There are no sightseeing passes in Tokyo. Key Attractions Sensoji Temple, Asakusa Tokyo’s most revered Buddhist temple and a site of pilgrimage and tourism for many centuries, Sensoji Temple, was founded in AD628, to enshrine a gold statuette of the Kannon Bodhisattva (the Goddess of Mercy). The temple and its five-storey pagoda are concrete reconstructions but the temple precincts are nevertheless always bustling with worshippers. Smoke from the huge incense burner in front of the temple is said to have healing powers. The impressive Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate) is famous for its enormous red paper lantern and fearsome guardian statues, while the temple approach is lined with shops selling traditional sweets and souvenirs. This area was the centre of Shitamachi (downtown) during the Edo period and the streets, shops and restaurants surrounding the temple still preserve something of the flavour of old Edo. The great Sanja festival takes place annually in Asakusa on the third weekend in May. Over one hundred mikoshi (portable shrines) are paraded through the streets, accompanied by great celebration and huge crowds. 2–3–1 Asakusa, Taito-ku Tel: (03) 3842 5566 (Asakusa Cultural and Sightseeing Centre). Transport: Asakusa Station, eastern terminus of Ginza underground line. Opening hours: Daily 0600–1700. Admission: Free. Tokyo Tocho (Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices) Located in bustling Shinjuku, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices are notable both for their extraordinary architecture and the splendid free observation decks on the 45th floor. Designed by Kenzo Tange, one of Japan’s top architects, the monumental twin towers are said to be inspired by Notre Dame, although the imposing granite façade rather brings to mind scenes of Batman’s Gotham City. The observation decks – one in each tower and both providing a café – are reached by high-speed elevator and give spectacular views over the city. On particularly fine days, visitors can see Mount Fuji. 2–8–1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku Tel: (03) 5320 7890. Website: www.chijihonbu.metro.tokyo.jp/english/tmg/tmg.htm Transport: Shinjuku Station, then a ten-minute walk following the underground passage leading west; Tochomae Station on Toei Oedo underground line. Opening hours: Tues–Sun 0930–2200. Admission: Free. Meiji-jingu (Meiji Shrine) One of Japan’s finest examples of Shinto architecture, the atmospheric Meiji Shrine is tucked away in the centre of a dark, cool forest – an unexpected oasis in the centre of the city. Passing through a vast wooden torii gate, the visitor follows the wide gravel path through the forest and into the shrine precincts. Completed in 1920, the shrine honours the memory of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken, under whose reign Japan rapidly modernised and was opened to the outside world. On weekends, it is often possible for visitors to see a traditional wedding procession and the precincts are one of the best places to witness the finery and festivities of New Year, Coming of Age Day (15 January) and the children’s festival of Shichi-Go-San (weekends around 15 November). The Gyoen Inner Garden, situated in the shrine grounds, is well worth visiting during June, for the spectacular displays of irises. 1–1 Kamizono-cho, Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku Tel: (03) 3320 5700. Website: www.meijijingu.or.jp/english Transport: Harajuku Station on the JR Yamanote loop line or Meiji-jingumae Station on the Chiyoda underground line. Opening hours: Daily dawn to dusk (shrine); daily 0900–1630 (Jingu Naien Garden). Admission: Free (shrine); ¥500 (Gyoen Inner Garden). Kyoko Higashi Gyoen (Imperial Palace East Garden) The Imperial Palace East Garden, on the site of the old Edo Castle of the shoguns, is the only part of the Imperial Palace that is regularly open to the public. Entered through the Otemon Gate – once the main entrance to the castle – it is a pleasant formal garden, surrounded by a section of the original moat and incorporating walls and foundations of the inner castle. Special features include a teahouse, pond and waterfall. Otemachi, Chiyoda-ku Tel: (03) 3213 1111. Transport: Nijubashimae Station on the Chiyoda underground line. Opening hours: Tues–Thurs, Sat and Sun 0900–1530 (Nov–Feb); Tues–Thurs, Sat and Sun 0900–1600 (Mar–Oct). Admission: Free. Edo-Tokyo Hakubutsukan (Edo-Tokyo Museum) Housed in what looks like a colossal white spaceship, the Edo-Tokyo Museum is a wonderful place for visitors to get a feel for Tokyo’s history and culture, from the Edo of the shoguns up to the post-war reconstruction. There are full-size models of period buildings and the Nihombashi ‘Bridge of Japan’, as well as engaging displays presenting the daily life and customs of the city’s past. 1–4–1 Yokoami, Sumida-ku Tel: (03) 3272 8600. Website: www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp/museum-e/guide.htm Transport: Ryogoku Station on JR Sobu line. Opening hours: Tues, Wed, Sat and Sun 0930–1730, Thurs and Fri 0930–2000. Admission: ¥600. Ueno Koen (Ueno Park) Once the site of temples and nobles’ mansions, Ueno Park is now Tokyo’s premier cherry blossom viewing spot and home to several important museums, as well as Tokyo Zoo. The park is dotted with historically interesting temples and shrines, including the Tokyo ‘branch’ of the Nikko Toshogu Shrine. The Tokyo National Museum houses treasures of Japanese art through the ages, while the National Museum of Western Art and the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum host important visiting exhibitions. Taito-ku, Tokyo Tel: (03) 3828 5644. Transport: Ueno Station on the JR Yamanote loop line. Opening hours: Daily 0500–2300. Admission: Free (park and shrines). National Museum of Western Art Tel: (03) 3828 5131. Website: www.nmwa.go.jp Opening hours: Tues–Thurs, Sat and Sun 0930–1700, Fri 0930–2000. Admission: ¥420. Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum Tel: (03) 3823 6921. Website: www.tobikan.jp/eng Opening hours: Tues–Sun 0900–1700. Admission: Varies according to exhibition, with minor exhibitions from ¥500 to ¥1000 and high-profile exhibitions generally ¥1300. Tokyo National Museum Tel: (03) 3822 1111. Website: www.tnm.jp Opening hours: Tues–Sun 0930–1700. Admission: ¥420. Tokyo Zoo Tel: (03) 3828 5171. Website: www.tokyo-zoo.net (Japanese only) Opening hours: Tues–Sun 0930–1630. Admission: ¥600. Tokyo Rainbow Town (Odaiba) Rainbow Town, also known as Odaiba, on the group of artificial islands in Tokyo Bay, is billed as Tokyo’s ‘Waterfront Town for the 21st Century’. The focus of much futuristic development, the area incorporates prestigious business premises, parks, tourist attractions and spectacular modern architecture. The Fuji Television Center (designed by Kenzo Tange), the Decks Tokyo Beach shopping and restaurant complex and the Tokyo International Exhibition Center (Tokyo Big Sight) are fast becoming Tokyo’s new landmarks, while the ship-shaped Museum of Maritime Science has excellent displays and hands-on exhibits. The driverless monorail ride to and from the island, which gives superb views of the area, is an attraction in itself. Odaiba, Tokyo Bay Transport: Yurikamome Monorail line from Shimbashi Station. Museum of Maritime Science 3–1 Higashi-yashio, Shinagawa-ku Tel: (03) 5500 1111. Website: www.funenokagakukan.or.jp (Japanese only) Opening hours: Mon–Fri 1000–1700, Sat and Sun 1000–1800. Admission: ¥1000. Further Distractions Tsukiji Ichiba (Tsukiji Wholesale Fish Market) The world’s biggest fish market, more than 2500 tons of fish pass through the Tsukiji Wholesale Fish Market every day, with deals totalling approximately £15 million. The first deliveries take place in the early hours but the main action starts with the tuna auction on the quay at the back of the market at around 0400. The bidding is fast and furious and makes a great show. Spectators are welcome but visitors should bear in mind that this is a business, not a tourist attraction. The auctions are over by 0530, when the focus shifts to the wholesale stalls – at least 1500 of them – offering every imaginable variety of fish and seafood to Tokyo’s chefs and food retailers, who come to buy the daily supply. As the city awakes, restaurants situated around the market offer sushi breakfasts, rounded off by a glass of beer. Nowhere in Tokyo can fish be eaten fresher. 5–2–1 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku Tel: (03) 3542 1111. Website: www.tsukiji-market.or.jp/tukiji_e.htm Transport: Tsukiji Station on the Hibiya underground line. Opening hours: Mon–Sat 0500–1000. Admission: Free. Tokyo Disneyland Tokyo Disneyland is a faithful replica of the Californian original, complete with Adventureland, Fantasyland and Tomorrowland, as well as shows, parades and firework displays. The unique and brand-new DisneySea Park, set against the backdrop of Tokyo Bay, is proving enormously popular. 1–1 Maihama, Urayasu-shi Tel: (047) 354 0001 or (045) 683 3333 (English-language information). Website: www.tokyodisneyresort.co.jp/tdr/index_e.html Transport: Maihama Station on the JR Keiyo Line from Tokyo Station. Opening hours: Daily 0800/0900–2200 (varies seasonally). Admission: ¥5500 (adult all-inclusive one-day ‘passport’ ticket). Tours of the City Walking Tours The Tokyo Tourist Information Office (tel: (03) 3201 3331) provides a leaflet, ‘Walking Tour Courses in Tokyo’, outlining walking routes in several main areas of the city. Asakusa’s Goodwill Guide Club gives a free one-hour English-language walking tour of this historical area every Sunday afternoon, setting off from its offices on 2–18–9 Kaminarimon, Taito-ku. Information is available from the Asakusa Cultural and Sightseeing Centre (tel: (03) 3842 5566). Bus Tours Hato Bus (tel: (03) 3435 6081; fax: (03) 3433 1972; website: www.hatobus.co.jp/english), JTB Sunrise Tours (tel: (03) 5796 5454; fax: (03) 5495 0680; website: www.jtb.co.jp/sunrisetour) and Japan Gray Line (tel: (03) 3433 5745; fax: (03) 3433 8388; website: www.jgl.co.jp/inbound/index.htm) all offer a wide variety of half-day, full-day and evening bus tours, with English-speaking guides. For example, Hato Bus offers a half-day (0900–1230) ‘Tokyo Morning Tour’ that departs daily from the Hamamatsucho Bus Terminal. The tour costs ¥5000 and takes in a number of sights, such as the Tokyo Tower and the Imperial Palace Plaza, as well as driving through a number of the cities lively shopping districts. Free hotel pick-up is available. Full day tours usually cost around ¥10,000. Boat Tours The Tokyo Cruise Ship Company (tel: (03) 3841 9178; website: www.suijobus.co.jp/english) runs a regular waterbus service along the Sumida River, between Asakusa, the Hama Rikyu Gardens, Hinode Pier and Odaiba. The trip takes 40 minutes and costs ¥660 (one way). The company also operates a variety of other waterbus services around Tokyo Bay, lasting between five and 55 minutes and costing ¥200–800. Vingt-et-Un Cruises (tel: (03) 3436 2121) and Symphony Cruises (tel: (03) 3798 8101; website: www.symphony-cruise.co.jp) offers two-hour daytime and evening boat cruises around Tokyo Bay. The tours cost, on average, ¥5000 and ¥3000 respectively. Symphony Cruises depart from the Hinode Pier, while Vingt-et-Un cruises set off from Takeshiba Pier. Excursions For a Half Day Kamakura: A small coastal town surrounded by wooded hills, some ten kilometres (six miles) south of Tokyo, Kamakura was the seat of Japan’s first military government, the Kamakura Shogunate of 1192–1333. Most famous for the imposing 12m-high (39ft) Great Buddha, which dates to the mid 13th century, the town also boasts several fine Zen temples, the impressive Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu Shrine and the nearby National Treasure Hall, which displays important Buddhist art of the Kamakura period. Pleasant hiking paths wind through the surrounding hills and the beach is a popular sunbathing and windsurfing spot in summer. Trains run frequently to Kamakura from Tokyo Station and Shinagawa Station, on the Yokosuka line (journey time – approximately 1 hour). The Tourist Information Office in Tokyo (tel: (03) 3201 3331) provides a leaflet, Hakone and Kamakura, with information on transport and sights. For a Whole Day Nikko: One of Japan’s most celebrated tourist attractions and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Nikko is celebrated for the dazzlingly ornate mausoleum of the first shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu (died 1616), who was the model for the fictional warlord of James Clavell’s novel Shogun. The intricately carved, elaborately painted and gilded gates, halls and storehouses of the mausoleum – known as the Toshogu Shrine – today appear almost gaudy but, as a mid 17th century political representation of shogunal power, they were very much a reflection of the times. Situated amid an ancient cedar forest, the extensive complex also includes Rinnoji Temple, Futarasan Shrine and the smaller, somewhat less elaborate, mausoleum of the third shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu. A combination entry ticket for all four attractions is available. Beyond Nikko lies Lake Chuzenji and the spectacular Kegon Waterfall, reached by a one-hour bus ride up a scenic mountain road of hairpin bends. Nikko is situated approximately 150km (93 miles) north of Tokyo and trains leave several times an hour from Asakusa Tobu Station on the privately operated Tobu Nikko line (tel: (03) 3621 5202; website: www.tobu.co.jp/english/sight). The journey takes approximately two hours. JR Rail Pass holders might prefer to take the slightly longer route of the JR Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo Station or Ueno Station to Utsunomiya, changing there to a local train for Nikko. The Tourist Information Office in Tokyo (tel: (03) 3201 3331) provides a leaflet, Nikko, with information on transport and sights, while the information desk in Tobu Nikko Station (tel: (0288) 534 511) provides leaflets and an English map. Hakone: The Fuji-Hakone National Park, only 80km (50 miles) southwest of Tokyo, offers a spectacular landscape of lakes and mountains, cultural attractions – such as the impressive open-air art museum – and (assuming the weather co-operates) the bonus of magnificent views of Mount Fuji. The popular circular route through the area by toy train, cable car and boat, passes through forests and old spa villages before whisking visitors high over sulphurous volcanic valleys and finishing with a leisurely cruise on scenic Lake Ashino. The Hakone Free Pass costs approximately ¥5000 (depending on the starting point) and allows unlimited travel on the area’s transport network. Hakone may be reached by Shinkansen Kodama bullet train from Tokyo to Odawara Station, or on the privately operated Odakyu line, which leaves from Tokyo’s Shinjuku Station. The Tourist Information Office in Tokyo (tel: (03) 3201 3331) provides a leaflet, Hakone and Kamakura, with information on transport and sights. Sport Sumo wrestling is Japan’s national sport and the six annual 15-day tournaments excite great interest throughout the country. The January, May and September tournaments are held in Tokyo. Tickets can be purchased at the venue, the Ryogoku Kokugikan Stadium, 1–3–28 Yokoami, Sumida-ku (tel: (03) 5237 9310). Further information can be found online (website: www.sumo.or.jp/eng/index.php). Even greater passion and devotion is aroused by baseball (yakyu or besubaru). Several of the country’s 12 professional teams are based in Tokyo and matches always attract tremendous crowds. One of the best places for one to see a game is Tokyo Dome, 1–3 Koraku, Bunkyo Ku (tel: (03) 5800 9999; website: www.tokyo-dome.co.jp/e), home to Japan’s most popular team, the Yomiuri Giants (website: http://giants.yomiuri.co.jp). Following Japan’s successful co-hosting of the World Cup 2002, football (sakka) is more popular than ever. Japan’s professional J-League consists of 12 teams and games are regularly played at Tokyo Dome (see above) or the National Stadium, Kokuritsu Kyogijo (tel: (03) 3403 1151). Tokyo has two horseracing (keiba) tracks, the Tokyo Keibajo (tel: (0423) 633 141) and the Oi Keibajo (tel: (03) 3763 2151), with races generally taking place on weekends. Ticket Pia (tel: (03) 5237 9999 for English-language telephone booking) and Lawson Ticket (tel: (03) 5537 9999) are the major ticket agencies, with outlets around the city. Events are regularly sold out and bookings should be made well in advance. Fitness centres: The Clark Hatch Fitness Center, Azabu Towers, 2–1–3 Azabudai Minato-ku (tel: (03) 3584 4092; website: www.clarkhatch.com), offers day membership and the major hotels almost all have fully equipped fitness centres. The Park Hyatt’s high rise Club on the Park, 3–7–1–2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku (tel: (03) 5322 1234), and Hotel Nikko Tokyo’s Bayside Spa ‘Zen’, 1–9–1 Daiba, Minato-ku (tel: (03) 5500 5500), both deserve a special mention. Golf: Japan is a golf-crazy country and, while Tokyo boasts over 500 driving ranges (often located on rooftops), enthusiasts must be prepared to travel to golf courses. Fees are high and weekends can be amazingly busy. The Sakawa Royal Golf Club, Kanagawa Prefecture (tel: (0465) 772 226; fax: (0465) 772 632), two hours by train west of Tokyo, boasts views of Mount Fuji. Non-members may play on weekdays and on weekends outside peak season. The Kazusa Monarch Country Club, 856–2 Yanoshiroji Yasurozawa Kimitsu, Chiba (tel: (0439) 293 101; fax: (0439) 293 399; website: www.giganet.net/kmcc/index.html) welcomes non-members at all times. Designed by Jack Nicklaus, the course is 90 minutes by train southeast of Tokyo. Course fees are from ¥13,000. Most golf courses are closed on Monday. The Tokyo Golf Course Guide gives additional information (website: www.successstories.com/home.htm). Jogging: Tokyo’s parks are popular with joggers. A favourite is Yoyogi Park, reachable via Harajuku Station on the JR Yamanote loop line or Meiji-jingumae Station on the Chiyoda underground line. The outer moat of the Imperial Palace offers an attractive jogging route but runners here might suffer from car fumes. Tennis: The Hibiya-koen tennis courts (tel: (03) 3501 6428) are centrally located in Hibiya Park, near Ginza. They are open 0900–2100 daily and fees are ¥3000–4000 per hour per court. Membership registration is required but can be obtained free of charge. Court reservations should be made well in advance. There is a website that gives information on other places to play (website: www.tokyotennis.com). Shopping Despite ongoing economic troubles and a definite move towards being more ‘Yen-conscious’, the Japanese remain enthusiastic shoppers and indeed the combination of impeccable service, the superb selection of goods and wonderful presentation make shopping in Tokyo very enticing. Although prices are gradually starting to come down and cut price outlets are gaining in popularity there are still few bargains to be had, however, the discerning eye will find numerous unique and affordable items, including ceramics and handicrafts, pearls, electronic goods and toys. The main shopping areas in Tokyo are: stylish Ginza, with its ritzy department stores, designer boutiques and chic galleries; young, trendy Shibuya for clothes, CDs and accessories; the ‘youth Mecca’ of Harajuku for teenage fashions and kitsch; Akihabara for a vast selection of cut-price electronic goods and computers; and vibrant Shinjuku, known for its camera shops, both new and second hand. Odaiba Mall is situated on the Tokyo Rainbow Town development in Tokyo Bay (see Key Attractions). When buying electrical goods, visitors should remember that Japan runs on 100 volts AC, so an adaptor and transformer will be required unless the items have a dual-voltage switch. In addition, many instruction books are available only in Japanese. The streets around Sensoji Temple in Asakusa are crowded with small shops specialising in Japanese arts and crafts, while the Jimbocho-Kanda area is the place for second-hand books and prints. Worthy of special mention is the Oriental Bazaar on Harajuku’s Omotesando Avenue, a large arts and souvenir emporium with a wide selection of goods at reasonable prices. A visit to the basement food hall of a major department store is a must, if only to marvel at the exquisite presentation of the extraordinary selection of foodstuffs. At the other end of the commercial spectrum, lively Ameyoko Market, located under the railway tracks just south of Ueno Park, retains echoes of its origins as Tokyo’s post-war black market, with raucous vendors, cheap prices and crowds of shoppers. The market is open during standard shopping hours. Antique/flea markets are held every Sunday – on the first and fourth Sundays of the month at Harajuku’s Togo Shrine, on the second Sunday of the month at Nogi Shrine in Nogizaka and most Sundays at Hanazono Shrine in Shinjuku. Starting before dawn, many stalls pack up by early afternoon. These markets are great places for browsing and good buys include old silk kimonos, Japanese dolls, ceramics and lacquer. A smile and a polite request will often yield a discount. Shops are mostly open seven days a week, 1000–1900/2000, with department stores closed one weekday a week. A consumption tax of 5% is added to the price of most goods and services at the till. Major shops and department stores offer tax-free shopping. Visitors can present their passport and receipt at the service desk for an immediate refund. Credit cards are slowly becoming more widely accepted but most transactions are still done in cash. It is sometimes possible for shoppers to bargain at markets and in electronics stores. This generally takes the form of politely asking for the ‘best price’ and haggling is frowned upon. Culture The legacy of the pleasure-loving inhabitants of old Edo, modern Tokyo continues to host an astonishing number of festivals, rituals, observances and celebrations. Starting with the traditional New Year visit to major shrines, to pray for good fortune during the coming year, the Tokyo calendar is full of high days and holidays, from the supremely populist to the positively esoteric. Some events mark a particular anniversary or date in the Buddhist calendar and are restricted to particular neighbourhoods, shrines or temples, while others, such as the spring cherry blossom viewing frenzy, occur citywide. The traditional arts, too, thrive here, with traditional drama, martial arts, the tea ceremony and flower arranging all widely taught and performed. Tokyo is a stop on the touring schedules of many internationally famous music and dance companies, pop groups and art exhibitions, further adding to the vibrancy of the local arts and entertainment scene. The Tourist Information Centre (tel: (03) 3201 3331) has a database of detailed information on the city’s festivals and the English-language magazines Metropolis (website: http://metropolis.japantoday.com/default.asp) and Tokyo Journal (website: www.tokyo.to) publish listings of events, concerts and exhibitions. The English-language booking agencies, Ticket Pia (tel: (03) 5237 9999) and Lawson Ticket (tel: (03) 5537 9999), are the major ticket merchants, with outlets located around the city. Events are regularly sold out and bookings should be made well in advance. Music: Lovers of classical music are well catered for in Tokyo. There are several resident symphony orchestras – such as the Tokyo Philharmonic Orchestra (website: www.tpo.or.jp/english) and the Tokyo Symphony Orchestra (website: www.tokyosymphony.com/e-tokyo) – as well as regular visits by touring orchestras, choirs and opera companies. There are numerous major venues, among them the Bunkamura Orchard Hal, 2–24–1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku (tel: (03) 3477 9999; website: www.bunkamura.co.jp/english/index.html), with transport from Shibuya Station, Suntory Hall, 1–13–1 Akasaka, Minato-ku (tel: (03) 3584 9999; website: www.suntory.co.jp/suntoryhall/english/index.html), with transport from Akasaka Station on the Chiyoda underground line, and the stunningly designed new concert hall, Tokyo Opera City, 3–20–2 Nishi Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku (tel: (03) 5353 9999; website: www.operacity.jp) with transport from Shinjuku Station. Tokyo International Forum, 3–5–1 Marunochi, Chiyoda-ku (tel: (03) 5221 9000; website: www.tif.or.jp) with transport from Yurakucho Station on the JR Yamanote loop line, stages a variety of musical and cultural performances in its four halls, one being among the largest in the world, with 5000 seats. Traditional Japanese musical performances, such as taiko (drum) and shamisen (string instrument), are occasionally held at Bunkamura (see above) and in smaller local venues. Theatre: Of Japan’s traditional dramatic arts, kabuki, with its gorgeous costumes, elaborate staging and complex plots, is probably the most accessible. Kabuki-za, 4–12–15 Ginza, Chuo-ku (tel: (03) 3541 3131; website: www.kabuki-za.co.jp), with transport from Higashi-Ginza Station on the Hibiya and Asakusa underground lines, holds regular performances and provides English earphone commentary. Performances are long, sometimes lasting five or six hours, however, it is usually possible to purchase tickets for a single act. Information on programs of other traditional performing arts, including noh (restrained and highly stylised drama, little changed since Japan’s medieval era), bunraku (puppet theatre) and kyogen (short satirical plays, often performed as intervals during noh dramas), can be obtained from the Tourist Information Centre (tel: (03) 3201 3331). Contemporary Japanese theatre tends towards the obscure and the language barrier is an additional dissuasion. Far more accessible are the extravagant review-style performances of the glamorous all-female Takarazuka troop, held at the Tokyo Takarazuka Theatre, 1–1–3 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku (tel: (03) 5251 2001; website: http://kageki.hankyu.co.jp/english/index.html), with transport from Yurakucho Station on the Yamanote loop line. Dance: Overseas dance companies, ranging from ballet to tango, regularly include Tokyo on their itineraries. Performances are often held at Bunkamura, 2–24–1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku (tel: (03) 3477 9999; website: www.bunkamura.co.jp/english/index.html). Butoh, an experimental, sometimes grotesque form of expressive dance developed in Japan in the 1960s, has a loyal following among more avant-garde Japanese audiences. Performances take place in various venues, and are listed in the event sections of Metropolis (website: http://metropolis.japantoday.com/default.asp) and Tokyo Journal (website: www.tokyo.to). Film: Tokyo’s many cinemas are concentrated in Ginza, Shibuya, Shinjuku and Ikebukuro. Foreign films are generally shown in their original language and subtitled in Japanese. However, tickets are expensive and Hollywood releases often lag months behind other countries. The last show generally starts around 1900, although there is sometimes a later show on weekends. Daily papers and event magazines have listings of what’s on. Mainstream cinemas include Hibiya Chanter Cinema, 1–2–2 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku (tel: (03) 3591 1511), and Shibuya Tokyu Movie Theatre, Tokyu Bunka Kaikan, 2–21–12 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku (tel: (03) 3407 7029). A good arts cinema is Cinema Rise, 13–17 Udagawa-cho, Shibuya-ku (tel: (03) 3464 0052). Rather than literary representations, Tokyo has always inspired powerful images, from the ‘ukiyo-e’ woodblock prints of the Edo period to the films of the present day. Juzo Itami’s Tampopo (1986) and Yasujiro Ozu’s Tokyo Story (1953) explore aspects of life in the city, while Katsuhiro Otomo’s acclaimed Akira (1988) is a sci-fi animation set in a futuristic vision of Tokyo. However, it is Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner (1982) with which many Westerners will be most familiar. While actually set in a future Los Angeles and filmed in Hollywood, the scenes of a dark, rainy, neon-studded cityscape have become for many an enduring image of Tokyo. Cultural events: Japan’s traditional neighbourhood matsuri (religious festivals) are still very much a living tradition. Joyous and good-naturedly boisterous, they offer a very different view of the Japanese to that gained in an everyday or business setting. Commencing at the local shrine, mikoshi (portable shrines) are paraded through the streets by men, women and children dressed in festival garb, accompanied by traditional music and dancing. Street stalls sell snacks, trinkets and copious amounts of beer. Held in neighbourhoods throughout Tokyo during the summer, the famous ‘big three’ are the Kanda Matsuri held in Kanda and the Sanja Matsuri held in Asakusa, both of which take place in mid May, and the Sanno Matsuri held in Akasaka in mid June. With thousands of participants and many times that number of spectators, these festivals are great fun but can be incredibly crowded and exhausting. April is the season for cherry blossom viewing and it seems that the whole population visits the city’s parks to picnic and make merry under the blossoms. During August, traditional Bon-odori dances are held beneath colourful lanterns to commemorate the spirits of the ancestors. The fun, gaudy and very un-Japanese Asakusa Samba Carnival is organised by Brazilian–Japanese returnees and takes place annually in late August on the streets of Asakusa. The annual Tokyo International Film Festival is held in late October/early November at Bunkamura, 2–24–1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku (tel: (03) 3477 9999; website: www.bunkamura.co.jp/english/index.html), and cinemas in the Shibuya area. The three major sumo tournaments that take place annually in Tokyo are major events, as is the baseball season, which opens in April and runs through the summer to the championships in October. Meanwhile, Tokyo’s two huge trade fair venues host major exhibitions throughout the year, one of the best known being the annual Tokyo Motor Show, which is usually held in late autumn. Literary Notes Tokyo is home to Japanese authors as diverse as Kenzaburo Oe, 1994 Nobel Laureate in Literature, and Banana Yoshimoto, author of the cult novel Kitchen (1993). From the great ‘interpreter of Japan’, Lafcadio Hearn – an early foreign resident of Tokyo and from the diplomatic wives of the 19th century, who delighted in the cherry blossoms and the dainty manners of the people – to Angela Carter, who pronounced Tokyo ‘an exceedingly pleasant place in which to live’, Tokyo has merited inclusion in a host of memoirs. These include the writings of William Faulkner, Aldous Huxley, Jean Cocteau and Charlie Chaplin. William Gibson’s novel, Idoru (1997), explores Tokyo’s technological future, while the darker side of the city is vividly portrayed in Speed Tribes: Children of the Japanese Bubble (1994) by Karl Taro Greenfeld. A Booker-shortlisted novel set in Tokyo is the wonderful Number 9 Dream (2001) by David Mitchell. Nightlife It’s at night that Tokyo really comes alive. Busy seven nights a week, the vibrant Roppongi district has a profusion of bars, clubs and discos, frequented by the smart ex-pat set as well as servicemen from the US military bases. Shinjuku, on the other hand, offers a more Japanese scene, with an incredible variety of eating and drinking places, from huge beer halls to tiny intimate theme bars, cinemas, clubs, massage parlours and Japan’s largest gay scene. Dress codes are rarely overly strict. Entrance fees to clubs are high but usually include a couple of drinks. Cover charges are common in izakaya (Japanese-style pubs) and bars. Drink prices very much depend on the surroundings and range from the reasonable to the stratospheric. If in doubt, do ask before ordering. Should you be tempted by one of the city’s many ‘hostess clubs’, be aware that a beer in the company of an attractive companion can easily cost ¥10,000. Tokyo’s gay bars are clustered in the Shinjuku 2–chome area. They are generally wary of foreign customers and are best explored with a Japanese companion. Several major hotels have ‘sky bars’, offering impressive night views of the city. There are no specific licensing hours in Tokyo, although the minimum drinking age is 20 years. Admission fees and opening times vary widely and the Tokyo nightlife scene is ever changing – for listings of what’s on and information about the latest hotspots, visitors should check the English-language Metropolis (website: http://metropolis.japantoday.com/default.asp) or Tokyo Journal (website: www.tokyo.to). Bars: For a typically Japanese ‘pub’ experience, izakaya offer beer, sake and a huge range of Japanese dishes. Among the most accessible to foreigners are the chains, Murasaki and Tengu. Both have numerous locations across the city and have a lively atmosphere, reasonable prices and convenient picture menus. For a more international scene, head to Roppongi and check out the brash, foreigner-friendly Gas Panic, 3–15–24 Roppongi. At nearby Castillo, 6–1–8 Roppongi, the non-stop disco classics mean the tiny dancefloor is often busier than the bar. For a pint of Guinness, try The Dubliners, 3–28–9 Shinjuku, or experience rock‘n’roll Japanese style at the loud and seedy Rolling Stone, 3–2–7 Shinjuku. Las Chicas, 5–47–6 Jingumae, Harajuku, is a trendy bar/restaurant complex; the leafy courtyard is a fine place to drink on a summer’s evening. Bar Isn’t It?, Roppongi, Minatoku, opposite the Shibuya Bunkamura art centre (see Culture), is a popular hangout and has the added attraction that all food and drinks are ¥500. For a more refined experience, try Hotel Okura’s Highlander, 2–10–4 Toranomon, a smart bar offering a selection of over 200 whiskies, or the New York Bar, a sophisticated jazz bar on the 52nd floor of the swanky Park Hyatt Hotel, 3–7–1–2 Nishi-Shinjuku. Casinos: Casino gambling is strictly controlled in Japan and although there are currently moves towards liberalisation, venues are still very limited. Central Tokyo’s only casino is in the Tokyo Dome complex, 1–3 Koraku, Bunkyo Ku. This casino is open to non-members, although Westerners might find the slot machines and blackjack on offer fairly tame. The dress code is smart – a jacket and tie are required for men. The minimum age for entry is 20 years and a passport is required. Clubs: Club Asia, 1–8 Maruyamacho, Shibuya, hosts major DJ events and ‘The Ring’, a much-anticipated monthly gay/straight dance party. Take a break from the dancefloor to surf the Internet in an adjacent room. The Liquid Room, 1–20–1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku, is a trendy venue for live events and one-off club nights, while Velfarre, 7–14–22 Roppongi, is a huge multi-level disco palace with a strict dress code and a high admission charge. The slick Lexington Queen, 3–13–14 Roppongi, is much loved by the showbiz/model crowd and a good place to spot celebrities, or you can find the hip student crowd at the progressive venue, Yellow, 1–10–11 Nishi-Azabu. For a change of rhythm, try Salsa Sudada, 7–13–8 Roppongi, for a heady mix of cocktails and Latin sounds. Live music: Tokyo’s local pop and rock scene revolves around ‘live houses’ – dark disco-like venues with a small stage. Crocodile, 6–18–8 Jingumae, Harajuku, and Club Quattro, 32–13 Udagawacho, Shibuya, are among the best known names. Milk, 1–13–3 Nishi-Ebisu, a hip, indie rock music venue, is a club/live house hybrid. Tokyo’s premier jazz venue is Blue Note, 6–3–16 Minami-Aoyama, which regularly attracts top international acts. The two main venues for major rock acts are The Budokan, 2–3 Kitanomaru-Koen, Chiyoda-ku, and Tokyo Dome, 1–3 Koraku, Bunkyo-ku. Tickets are pricey and should be reserved well in advance. City Statistics Location: Kanto region, eastern Japan. Country dialling code: 81. Population: 210,000 (city); 12,170,000 (metropolitan area). Ethnic mix: 97.5% Japanese, 2.5% other. Religion: 99% Shinto/Buddhist, 1% Christian. Time zone: GMT + 9. Electricity: 100 volts AC, 50/60Hz; flat two-pin American-style plugs are standard. Average January temp: 4°C (39°F). Average July temp: 25°C (77°F). Annual rainfall: 1563mm (62 inches). Special Events O-Shogatsu (New Year), families visit temples and shrines to offer prayers for the coming year, 1–3 Jan, at temples and Shinto shrines across the city Special Opening of the Imperial Palace Grounds, crowds flock to the public appearance of the Emperor and Empress, 2 Jan, Imperial Palace Grounds Dezomeshiki (New Year’s Parade of Firemen), Tokyo’s firemen perform traditional acrobatic stunts and display the latest equipment, early Jan, Odaiba Setsubun, ceremony to drive away demons, 3 or 4 Feb, Sensoji Temple, Asakusa, and major temples across the city Hana Matsuri (The Birth of Buddha), ceremonies are held at Buddhist temples, 8 Apr, throughout the city Golden Week, a major holiday incorporating several national holidays, during which many offices close and huge numbers of locals take a holiday (a crowded time to travel), 29 Apr–5 May, throughout the city Cherry Blossom Viewing, picnics and merrymaking beneath the city’s thousands of cherry trees, Apr, throughout the city Kanda Matsuri (Kanda Festival), a major street festival with parades of portable shrines and traditional floats, a weekend in mid May (odd-numbered years only), Kanda Myojin Shrine Sanja Matsuri (Sanja Festival), Tokyo’s biggest and most famous festival features enormous parades of portable shrines carried by men and women in traditional costume, third weekend in May, Asakusa Sanno Matsuri (Sanno festival), historic street festival featuring parades of portable shrines and a procession of 500 people in traditional court dress, a weekend in mid Jun (even-numbered years only), Hie Shrine Sumida Hanabi (Sumida Fireworks Festival), spectacular fireworks display on Tokyo’s Sumida River, late Jul or early Aug, Asakusa Asakusa Samba Carnival, a riot of colour and sound organised by Brazilian-Japanese returnees, late Aug, Asakusa Bon-odori dances, dancing takes place beneath colourful lanterns to commemorate the spirits of the ancestors, Aug, various venues Tokyo International Film Festival, Japan’s annual film extravaganza (website: www.tiff-jp.net/e_index.html), 28 Oct–5 Nov, Bunkamura, Shibuya Tokyo Motor Show, passenger cars and motorcycles featured on odd-numbered years, commercial vehicles featured on even-numbered years (website: www.tokyo-motorshow.com/eng/), late Oct–early Nov, Makuhari Messe, Chiba Shichi-go-san (Seven, Five, Three Festival), children of these ages are dressed in their best clothes and taken to Shinto shrines to pray for their future. 15 Nov (or closest weekend), Meiji Shrine, Asakusa Shrine, Hie Shrine and others across the city Tori-no-Ichi (Rake Fair), extraordinarily decorated rakes, believed to bring good fortune, are sold at a great shrine fair, mid Nov, Otori Shrine, Asakusa Hagoita-Ichi (Battledore Fair), lavishly decorated battledore paddles of all sizes are sold at a large and popular temple fair in the hope of an auspicious start to the New Year, 17–19 Dec, Sensoji Temple, Asakusa Omisoka (New Year’s Eve), temple bells ring out 108 times and people flock to temples and shrines to see in the New Year, 31 Dec, Meiji Shrine and temples and shrines across the city Cost of Living One-litre bottle of mineral water: ¥200 33cl bottle of beer: ¥240 Financial Times newspaper: ¥600 36-exposure colour film: ¥500 City-centre bus ticket: ¥200 Adult football ticket: ¥4000 Three-course meal with wine/beer: From ¥3500 100 Japanese Yen (¥100) = £0.50; US$0.88; C$1.02; A$1.15; ¬0.74 Currency conversion rates as of October 2005 |
