World City Guide

Mini Guide of Tripoli

City Overview

Tripoli is an ancient city founded in the seventh century BC and whose previous inhabitants have included the Phoenicians, Romans, Byzantium and Arab dynasties, the Spanish (who invaded in 1535), the Turks (Ottoman rule was established in 1551) and Italians (1911-1943). The end of World War II brought with it an occupying army of Allied forces who granted Libya independence in 1951. A darker period in the country’s history came in the 1980s and 1990s when Colonel Gaddafi’s government was accused of condoning and even orchestrating a series of terrorist attacks in Europe; as a direct result, the US military fired missiles into the capital in 1986. The lifting of UN sanctions in 2003 has helped put the country and its capital back on the road to economic recovery. Today Tripoli, home to some 1.8 million people, has a discernible Mediterranean ambience with a balmy climate and an impressive natural harbour. A strict Muslim faith (alcohol is strictly prohibited) and rich Islamic traditions permeate the fabric of daily life in the city, with Arabic arts and crafts, ornate carpets, opulent handcrafted jewellery (gold and silver), leather goods, pottery and traditional clothing on sale in the city’s souks and shops adding vibrancy and colour to the city.

Getting There By Air

Tripoli International Airport (TIP)
Tel: (022) 605 026.

Located 25km (16 miles) from the city centre, the airport is served by various airlines including the national carrier Libyan Arab Airlines (tel: (021) 602 093).

Airport facilities include bank, post office, duty-free shops, chemist, left luggage, cafés, Internet café and car hire. There are no dedicated business facilities.

Unless you have arranged private transfer with a hotel or travel agency, the only way to reach the city centre is by taxi. Taxis wait for arriving passengers outside the arrivals hall.

Getting There By Water

International ferries from Izmir (Turkey), Tangiers (Morocco) and Valetta (Malta) serve Tripoli’s ferry terminal, however services are infrequent and unpredictable. For current service information, check with the General National Maritime Transport Company at Sharia Mohammed Megharief (tel: (021) 333 3155). Those travelling from western Europe can take a ferry from Marseille to Tunis Port with SNCM Ferries (tel: +33 (0)891 701 801; website: www.sncm.fr), or from Genoa to Tunis Port with SNCM Ferries or Grandi Navi Veloci Ferries (tel: +39 010 209 4591; website: http://www1.gnv.it), and drive to the Ras Ajdir border from there, before connecting to Libya’s National Coast Road.

Getting There By Road

Libya’s land borders with Algeria, Sudan, Niger and Chad are frequently closed to non-Africans; therefore foreigners tend to enter Libya at the Ras Ajdir (169km or 105 miles west of Tripoli) border with Tunisia or the Al-Burdi with Egypt. From either of these borders, Tripoli can be reached by following the National Coast road, which stretches 1,822km (1,132 miles) and links Tunisia with Egypt. To enter Libya with a private vehicle, registration papers and adequate insurance are required. You will also need a national driving licence, an International Driving Permit and a Carnet de Passage en Douane, which guarantees that the car will be removed from the country within a specified time limit and exempts it from import duties. You will also have to purchase temporary Libyan licence plates and liability insurance as you cross the border.

Long distance buses link Tripoli to Algeria, Egypt and Tunisia, as well as Syria, Iraq and Jordan. Routes and operators change frequently and standards are inconsistent. For up-to-date information, check at the Tunis Garage – the departure point for international services, or seek advice from locals. Another option is to take shared taxis (minibuses), changing vehicles as you change country. Air-conditioned buses run from Tripoli to destinations throughout Libya, these can be caught at the Tunis Garage or the Dhara Bus Station. Recent years have seen the construction of more tarmac roads in Libya and the country’s main roads are generally in a good condition.

Getting There By Rail

There are currently no international train services to Libya. Libyan Railways (website: www.libyanrailways.com) are undertaking an ambitious project that should bring 3,170km (1,969 miles) of railway track to Libya: a coastal line travelling from Emsaid to Ras Ajdir (2,178km) (1,353 miles) and a southern line connecting Elhesha to Brak and Sebha (992km) (616 miles). The provisional date for completion is the end of 2006. If works run to schedule, the Tripoli to Ras Ajdir section of track should be fully operation by the end of 2004, with the Tripoli to Musrata section (200km) (124 miles) due to open at the end of 2005.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Shared taxis are the most common way of travelling around Tripoli, these are yellow and white and can be caught at bus stops (where these exist) or ‘hailed’ by shouting out your destination as the driver slows down. There is also a taxi rank at the Sharia al-corniche.

Taxis
Tripoli’s sizeable fleet of private taxis are black and white and can be flagged down.

Car Hire
At present, none of the major car rental agencies have offices in Libya. Local firms offer car rental but providers and details change frequently, so it is best to check locally. If you hire a car, check the condition of the vehicle, as some are hardly roadworthy. Minimum age restrictions apply with drivers needing to be at least 23 in many, but not all, cases. When hiring a car, it is also advisable to check the kind of insurance cover that you have under the agreement.

Cars driving on Libya’s roads are restricted to speeds of 50kmh (31mph) in built up areas and 100kmh (62mph) on the main highway.

Bicycle & Scooter Hire
The high accident rate on roads in Tripoli make those riding two-wheeled vehicles very vulnerable, therefore this is not a recommended mode of transport in the Libyan capital.

Business

Business Etiquette
Anyone conducting business in Tripoli should respect the Muslim culture. Friday is a day of prayer and Libyan owned businesses and government offices are closed. Business hours are 0900-1400 and 1630-1830/2030 Sat-Thu, or 0700-1400/1500 in government offices. Smart conservative business attire that covers the arms, legs and shoulders should be worn with women wearing loose fitting clothes. Libyans will expect you to make and be prompt for appointments, although they themselves may be late. Meetings begin with an exchange of pleasantries and you should not cause offence by cutting these short. Professional titles are important and the most senior person should be addressed with your business proposals. You should also accept offers of food or refreshment and be prepared for meetings to be interrupted by people or phone calls. Check if you will need a translator and ensure that all documents have been translated into Arabic.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Tripoli is a stunning city that more than lives up to the moniker ‘The jewel of the Mediterranean.’ The obvious starting point for a sightseeing tour is the Medina (Old City). The narrow whitewashed streets of the Medina are crammed with mosques (the highlights of which are the Gurgi and the Karamanli mosques) and private dwellings that date from the Ottoman period and are constructed around internal courtyards. Inside the Medina you will find bustling souks, the last trace of Roman occupation (in the form of the marble Arch of Marcus Aurelius) and the city’s castle. The castle was constructed over many centuries and has discernible Ottoman and Spanish influences; it also features a harem, mosque and myriad courtyards and is home to the National or Jamahiriya Museum. One of Africa’s most impressive museums, the latter catalogues Libya’s history and heritage from its Neolithic origins through to the present day. There is more to the Libyan capital than striking architecture; it also has a water park, zoo and beaches (although these aren’t especially clean) to keep you occupied.

Tourist Information
There is no state-run tourist agency in Libya.

Key Attractions

Medina
Tripoli’s old city is an impressive set-piece complete with narrow alleyways, dozens of mosques and buildings whose architecture was influenced by the Turks and Italians who ruled Libya at different times in history - look out for the somewhat faded former Bank of Rome and St Mary’s Cathedral (which no longer functions as a church). Old stone walls and the Mediterranean Sea attractively frame the Medina’s bustling streets.

Souks
One of the greatest joys in Tripoli is perusing, and buying, the wonderful array of goods on sale in the old souks (markets) that crowd the historic core. Here you can pick up clothing, beautiful fabric and jewellery, as well as aromatic herbs and spices. Away from the organised souks you may also find women selling jewellery or clothing at their own informal stalls. Even if you don’t intend shopping the souks boast some attractive architecture such as the 19th century clock tower that guards the entrance to Souq al-Mushir.

Medina

Assai al-Hamra (Red Castle)
This sprawling fortress, and one time bastion of government power, whose buildings and courtyards cover over 13,000 square metres, opened to the public in 1988. Walking around the castle, the city’s history gradually unfolds with the cells of former prisoners, the rooms occupied by a succession of Turkish rulers and the Spanish courtyard all open to the public. The most impressive aspects of the castle, though, are its forbidding façade and the Jamahiriya Museum (see next listing).

As-Saha al-Kradrah (Green Square)
Tel: (021) 333 3042.

Jamahiriya Museum
The highlights of the enormous collection, displayed over five floors, at the Jamahiriya (or national) Museum are stunning mosaics, which date from the days of Tripoli’s Roman settlement. Its collection of statues, Islamic architecture and natural history artefacts are also noteworthy. Look out for a VW Beetle that once belonged to Colonel Gaddafi.

As-Saha al-Kradrah (Green Square)
Tel: (021) 333 0292.

Arch of Marcus Aurelius
This surprisingly well-preserved arch dates from AD163 and was built as a testament to the might of the Roman army. Its sturdy appearance may be easier to understand when you learn that the authorities relocated it from Leptis Magna. Examining the engravings on the arch, one can see the goddess Athena riding in a chariot towed by griffin and images of local people surrendering to the Roman forces.

North-eastern corner of the Medina near Sharia Hara Kebir

Further Distractions

Gurgi Mosque
The interior of Tripoli’s most attractive mosque is crafted with Egyptian and Greek marble, Moroccan stone and Tunisian tiles. The towering white minaret of this 20th century house of prayers has two balconies, with locals claiming that it was constructed this way in a bid to outshine the Ahmed Paha Mosque.

North-eastern corner of the Medina just off Sharia Hara Kebir and close to the Arch of Marcus Aurelius

Janzur
The low-key resort of Janzur is located 12km (7 miles) from Tripoli; here attractions include a 200 year old mosque (Sidi Amara Mosque), underground tombs, museum and a decent beach.

Tours of the City

The majority of those visiting Tripoli do so as part of an organised tour; therefore there are currently no dedicated city tours. Anyone wanting to organise a tour of Tripoli or an excursion from the city should try and arrange this through their hotel concierge or a local travel agent. Both the Medina and the more interesting parts of the new city (around Green Square) are easily navigable on foot and can be explored without a tour guide.

Excursions

Libya is littered with historically significant sites and ruined towns and cities dating from the first century BC to the 4th century AD when the Phoenicians and then the Romans were in town. Leptis Magna, 120 km (75 miles) from Tripoli is arguably the country’s most memorable sight whose towering colonnaded streets, crammed with ruined temples, theatres and public baths leave the ruins of Pompeii in the shade. Again the majority of visitors travel to what was the biggest Roman settlement in this region as part of a larger group itinerary that takes in the highlights of Libya. For excursions to the ancient city from the capital, it is best to seek advice locally.

Sport

Shopping

Tripoli is a city brimming with traditional souks (markets) where you can buy everything from Arabic clothing, elaborate fabric and expertly crafted carpets to handmade jewellery, silverware, leather goods and other handicrafts. Shoppers should follow the lead of the locals and make their purchases in the large bazaars, the souk in Sharia Rashid sells an eclectic array of goods, while Souq al Attara, just off Green Square, is the place to head for textiles and clothing. At Souq al-Ghizdir you can commission your own copperware and Souq al-Turk is the largest marketplace in the old town. Souvenir shops as such are thin on the ground, with Ben Zeglam in the carpet bazaar selling some traditional items like jewellery, textiles, pottery and carpets. Inside the Medina you will also find small shops selling an abundance of cheap electrical goods and clothing. The souks bustle throughout the day and well into the evening (2000 or 2100).

Culture

Libyan culture is evident in daily life in Tripoli, with traditional handmade products on display in the city’s souks, the markets themselves and the relaxed atmosphere in the city’s tea gardens. Music is an integral part of life in Tripoli and on Wednesdays accordions (traditionally played on the eve of a wedding) can be heard in the city's streets. Visitors to Tripoli will also hear the beats of North African pop music. The lifting of the ban on western music has seen a trickle of international bands perform in the city, with infrequent concerts advertised locally. Theatre groups do grace venues in the city, but there are no dedicated theatres: productions appear sporadically and are almost always in Arabic. Anyone hoping to catch a play or folk performance should ask locally. Tripoli also has a number of cinemas; however these are not geared to Westerners, with outdated films generally shown only in Arabic, again seek advice in the city.

Nightlife

Libyan law prohibits the sale or consumption of alcohol, therefore traditional night venues like bars and clubs are conspicuously absent in Tripoli. After sunset, the city is generally quiet as the city’s residents return home. The Medina is then the liveliest part of town where locals can be found drinking in the quarter’s street cafes and tearooms. The best advice is to wander around until you find a busy cafe. The waterfront outside Green Square also comes alive with people drinking coffee, soft drinks and smoking shisha pipes during the early evening. Enjoying a leisurely meal (see Restaurants), drinking non-alcoholic drinks in hotel café-bars, or taking in a theatrical performance (see Culture) are alternative ways to while away an hour or two during a lazy Tripoli evening. The Tripoli Café at the Corinthia Bab Africa Hotel (see Hotels), where ‘mocktails’ are served in pleasant surrounds, is worth visiting.

City Statistics

Location: Tripoli is a Mediterranean port in the northwest of Libya. The country shares land borders with Algeria, Chad, Egypt, Niger, Sudan and Tunisia.
Country dialling code: + 218.
Time zone: GMT + 2.
Electricity: 220, 230 and 240 volts, 50Hz; three-pin flat plug.
Average January temp: 12°C (53°F).
Average July temp: 27°C (80°F).
Annual rainfall: 400mm (15.7 inches).

Special Events

Eid al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice), Jan/Feb, this three-day celebration comes at the end of the Hajj pilgrimage to Mecca and recognises Ibrahim’s devotion to God
International Fair, Apr, ostensibly a business event with participants from around the globe and a children’s funfair
Evacuation Day, Mar 28 and Jun 11, two public holidays celebrating the withdrawal of British and America troops from the country
Revolution Day, Sep 1, public holiday commemorating Gaddafi’s rise to power in 1969 with speeches and parades, Green Square
Day of Mourning, 26 Oct, another public holiday remembering those who lost their lives during the Italian occupation of Libya
Eid al-Fitr, end of Ramadan (Dec/Jan), one of the biggest festivals in the Muslim calendar is a day of prayer and celebration marked by visits a mosque, the giving of gifts and visiting friends and family, throughout the city

Cost of Living

1 Libyan Dinar (1 LYD) = £0.43; US$0.75; C$0.87; A$0.98; ¬0.63
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005