World City Guide

Vienna (Wien) is a unique blend of the historic and the modern, so full of tradition it can be read on the face of the city, yet with a forward-looking approach that will surprise the visitor. Vienna’s role as the seat of the Hapsburg Empire for centuries can be seen in the wealth of architecture and in the city’s artistic and musical heritage. Many of the world’s most important composers, including Beethoven and Mozart, have lived and performed behind Vienna’s Baroque façades. In addition to this Baroque splendour, there are excellent examples of the Art Nouveau (Jugendstil) architecture that also flourished here.

The fall of the Hapsburg Empire, at the end of World War I, allowed Vienna’s socialist undercurrents to come to the fore during the ‘Red Vienna’ period, resulting in numerous social housing and other projects, which still play a role in the city. Vienna’s occupation by the Nazis and subsequent partitioning by the four Allied powers tend to be forgotten, as the city instead focuses on its post-war neutrality and the glittering remnants of its Imperial glory. This seems to be reinforced by the image of older Viennese walking small dogs or eating cakes in cafés but it ignores the energy of Vienna’s alternative and underground scenes, whose members react against the attachment to tradition in a way similar to their Secessionist counterparts a century before.

Vienna is divided into 23 Bezirke (districts). The original city that lay within the protective walls comprises the First District of modern Vienna. The demolition of the city walls led to the construction of the Ringstrasse and an impressive parade of buildings along its length. The majority of the tourist attractions lie on and within the Ringstrasse. Districts two to nine are arrayed between the Ringstrasse and the concentric Gürtel (Belt). The other districts lie beyond the Gürtel and extend into the foothills of the Wienerwald (Vienna Woods), where Heurigen (wine taverns) and pretty villages are dotted among the vineyards.

Vienna’s climate is generally moderate, although the city can experience heavy snowfalls and low temperatures from December to March, as well as occasionally very high temperatures in July and August. Summer, however, is usually comfortable with an average daily temperature of 20°C, although heavy thundershowers are likely.

The city is not only the capital of Austria but also a federal province as well, surrounded by Niederösterreich (Lower Austria). Vienna’s location on the east–west trade route along the River Danube played an important part in its history – an empire that once covered a large part of Europe was ruled from here. Even today, Vienna is the financial and administrative capital of Austria and home to a number of international organisations, including the United Nations. And with the fall of Communism, Vienna is once again at the centre of Europe.

Getting There By Air

Vienna International Airport (VIE)
Tel: (01) 70070. Fax: (01) 25351.
Website: www.viennaairport.com

Austria’s main airport (Wien Schwechat) is located 18km (11 miles) southeast of the city. The airport handled 11.84 million passengers in 2001, travelling to destinations worldwide, including London, New York and Bangkok.

Major airlines: The national carrier is Austrian Airlines (tel: (05) 1789; website: www.aua.com). Other Austrian airlines serving the airport include Lauda Air and Tyrolean. There are a number of international carriers including British Airways, Continental Airlines, CSA, Iberia, KLM – Royal Dutch Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines and Lufthansa.

Approximate flight times to Vienna: From London is 2 hours 10 minutes; from New York is 8 hours 50 minutes; from Los Angeles is 12 hours 30 minutes; from Toronto is 8 hours 45 minutes and from Sydney is 22 hours 15 minutes.

Airport facilities: The airport offers cafés, snack bars, restaurants and bars, as well as a grocery store, florists, pharmacies, newsagents, duty-free shops and boutiques. In addition, there is a 24-hour Medical Centre (including a vaccination centre) and a Wellness Centre (massage, showers, solarium and Wellness Bar). Car hire is available from Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz, Sixt and Thrifty.

Business facilities: The VIP & Business Centre (tel: (01) 7007 23300 or 23400 or 23406; fax: 7007 23250; e-mail: vip.vie@viennaaorport.com) organises events and press conferences. It also provides banqueting, photocopying and telex services. The Danube Aviator Club is a lounge for frequent users of Vienna Airport, with work space, telephone, modem, fax and message services, as well as an adjacent conference centre. The airport also offers 12 executive lounges.

Arrival/departure tax: None.

Transport to the city: Wiener Linien (tel: (01) 790 9105; website: www.wienerlinien.co.at) operates both an S-bahn commuter train and bus services from Vienna International Airport.

The S7 S-Bahn line runs at least every half an hour 0500–2230 (journey time – 25 minutes) to Wien Mitte and Wien Nord where visitors can change to the U-Bahn. A single ticket costs ¬3 (plus ¬1.50 for onward travel on public transit).

The A4 Airport Motorway and B9 main road connect the airport with the city. Buses depart from the airport to the City Air Terminal every 20–30 minutes 0530–0100 (journey time – 20 minutes). Other buses go to Südbahnhof and Westbahnhof rail stations approximately once an hour 0530–2310 (journey time – 20 and 35 minutes, respectively). A single ticket costs ¬5.80 or ¬5 with a Vienna Card (see Public Transport in Getting Around). Buses are also available to Bratislava (Slovak Republic) and Budapest (Hungary).

Taxis to the city (journey time – 30 minutes) are metered but a fixed price of ¬35–40 to the city centre can be paid at the booking counter. The surcharge for luggage is ¬1 for 20–50kg and ¬2 for more than 50kg. For trips from the city to the airport, a charge of ¬10 may be added to the fare to cover the driver’s return cost. Limousines cost from ¬23 (journey time – 20 minutes).

Getting There By Water

Vienna is accessible from a number of cities along the River Danube, including Passau (Germany), Bratislava (Slovak Republic) and Budapest (Hungary). The Reichsbrücke Schiffahrtszentrum (Navigation Centre), near the Vorgartenstrasse U-Bahn station, is the main dock for passenger boats to and from Vienna. The centre has a café, restaurant with terrace, customs and shipping facilities. The smaller boat terminal near Schwedenplatz station is used only for local boat tours

Queries should be directed to DDSG (tel: (01) 5888 0442; fax: (01) 5888 0440; e-mail: info@ddsg-blue-danube.at; website: www.ddsg-blue-danube.at).

Boat services: DDSG Blue Danube Schiffahrt GmbH (tel: (01) 5888 0442; fax: (01) 5888 0440; e-mail: info@ddsg-blue-danube.at; website: www.ddsg-blue-danube.at) offers hydrofoil crossings from Bratislava Wednesday to Sunday from May to October (journey time – 1 hour 45 minutes) for ¬21 one way or ¬32 return. Daily trips from Budapest are available from April to October for ¬75 one way or ¬99 return, with additional trips in July and August (journey time – 6 hours 20 minutes). A number of shorter cruise options are also available. Reservations are required.

Transport to the city: The main terminal is Reichsbrücke, which is located near the Vorgartenstrasse U-Bahn station. The U1 goes to Stephansplatz in the city centre. Schwedenplatz station, near the smaller boat terminal, is connected by lines U1 and U4.

Getting There By Road

Austria has an excellent network of roads, with Autobahnen (motorways indicated by an ‘A’) between major centres and connecting to the ‘E’ trans-European routes. Bundesstrassen (national roads) have a ‘B’ prefix. Traffic drives on the right. Speed limits are 130kph (81mph) on motorways, 100kph (62mph) on main roads and 50kph (31mph) in built-up areas. Tolls are payable on a number of mountain roads, tunnels, motorways and main roads. Toll stickers (Autobahnvignette), which must be attached to the windscreen, are available for purchase for ¬7.60 (valid for ten days), ¬21.80 (for two months) or ¬72.60 (for one year) from tobacconists, border-crossing points, filling stations near the border and from automobile clubs ARBÖ (website: www.arboe.or.at) and ÖAMTC (website: www.oeamtc.at).

The minimum driving age in Austria is 18 years and drivers must carry a European driving licence or an International Driving Permit. Third party insurance is mandatory. Seatbelts must be worn and children under 12 years old may not sit in the front seat. The legal maximum alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08%. Winter tyres are essential during the colder season and travellers who require snow chains can hire them at major border-crossing points.

Information on road conditions is available in English daily 0600–2000 from the Austrian Automobile Club (tel: (01) 711 997; fax: (01) 713 1807). Regular road reports in German automatically interrupt the chosen radio station on car radios.

Emergency breakdown services:
ARBÖ 123
ÖAMTC 120

Routes to the city: The Westautobahn (A1) connects Vienna to Linz, Salzburg and Western Europe. The Südautobahn (A2) leads to Graz, Klagenfurt and the Italian border. The Ostautobahn (A4) passes the airport on its way to Bratislava and Budapest. The A22 connects the city to Prague, in the north.

Approximate driving times to Vienna: From Linz – 2 hours; Budapest – 2 hours 35 minutes; Salzburg – 3 hours.

Coach services: Eurolines Austria (tel: (01) 712 0453; fax: (01) 7120 45320; e-mail: info@eurolines.at; website: www.eurolines.at) offers coach services throughout Europe, departing from the Wien Mitte bus station, Landrasser Haupstrasse (on the U-Bahn Landstrasse/Wien Mitte). Coach services within Austria are operated in partnership with Blaguss Internationale Buslinien, Richard Strauss Strasse 21 (tel: (01) 610 900; fax: (01) 6109 0125; e-mail: office@blaguss.com). National services are also provided by Postbus (tel: (01) 794 440; e-mail: kundenservice@postbus.at; website: www.postbus.at) and a number of private operators. Timetable information (tel: (01) 71101) is available 0700–1900.

Getting There By Rail

Österreichischen Bundesbahnen or ÖBB (tel: (01) 58000; website: www.oebb.at) operates the 5800km (3600 miles) of rail network in Austria. In addition to the usual onboard services (restaurant and bar cars, snack trolleys and telephones), ÖBB offers mini-office compartments (with power points for laptop computers) and women-only compartments for those seeking hassle-free travel. The ÖBB also can arrange a pick-up service to greet passengers on the platform and conduct them to their hotels. In Vienna, this service is available at Wien Westbahnhof in association with the Arcotel Hotel Wimberger.

Vienna’s major rail stations and their U-Bahn connections are Westbahnhof, Europaplatz, on the U3 and U6 (tel: (01) 5800 31060; fax: (01) 5800 25811), Südbahnhof, Südtirolerplatz, on the U1 (tel: (01) 5800 31050; fax: (01) 5800 25830), Franz-Josefs-Bahnhof, Franz-Josefs Platz, on the U4 (tel: (01) 5800 31020; fax: (01) 5800 25831), and Wien Mitte, Landstrasser Hauptstrasse 1, on the U3 and U4 (tel: (01) 5800 31070; fax: (01) 5800 25815). Facilities at most main stations include bicycle hire, gift shops and a door-to-door luggage service. Timetable information is available 24 hours a day (tel: 1717).

Rail services: Intercity trains within Austria follow the main eastbound route from Bregenz to Vienna (journey time – 8–9 hours) via Innsbruck, Salzburg and Linz, or travel north from Graz (journey time – 2 hours 30 minutes) or Klagenfurt (journey time – 4 hours 30 minutes), via Bruck an der Mur. There are departures to the major cities at least once every two hours. Domestic rail services pass through breathtaking Alpine scenery but unfortunately this is bypassed by the majority of international services. Travellers should watch out for the stunning view of the Melk Abbey on the main line approaching Vienna from the west.

There are international services from most Central and Eastern European capitals. Night trains are available from most Western European countries, including Paris (journey time – 14 hours) and Berlin (journey time – 11 hours) and from as far east as Moscow (although this journey takes one and a half days).

Transport to the city: All of Vienna’s railway stations are connected to the U-Bahn network (see above), either directly or by a very short walk.

Getting Around

Public Transport
The Vienna Transport Authority, Wiener Linien (tel: (01) 790 9105; website: www.wienerlinien.co.at), operates the U-Bahn (underground), S-Bahn (commuter rail), Strassenbahn (tram) and bus network. Public transport operates between 0500 and 2400. After midnight, half-hourly night buses radiate out from Schwedenplatz.

The U-Bahn system comprises four lines. The U2 follows the Ringstrasse from Karlsplatz to Schottenring. The U4, with its Art Nouveau stations, completes the ring and leads off into the northern and western suburbs. The east–west U3 and north–south U1 cross in the centre of the Innerestadt (inner town). The U6 is basically a tram on a dedicated track that runs parallel to the Gürtel.

Vienna has one of the largest tram networks in the world. The trams are affectionately referred to as ‘Bims’ for the noise they make.

A single fare for U-bahn, bus and tram costs ¬1.50 (¬2 if purchased on the tram or bus) and there is no additional charge for transfers. A single night bus fare costs ¬1. There is a fine of ¬40 for passengers who are caught without a valid ticket – on-board inspections are carried out at various times. Tickets are available at Wiener Linien ticket offices and service centres, vending machines and tobacco/newsagent (tabak) outlets.

The Vienna Card (¬16.90) is a pass that allows for 72 hours of travel on the U-bahn, trams and buses (except for night buses) and offers discounts on attractions, at many shops and restaurants (see Passes in Sightseeing). Other passes include the 24-hour network pass (¬5), the 72-hour network pass (¬12), the weekly season ticket (¬12.50), and the eight-day strip ticket (¬24), which can be used for two people travelling together. Passes are available from Wiener Linien ticket offices and service centres. A comprehensive transit map is available for purchase at ¬1 from ticket offices.

Taxis
Taxis are equipped with meters. Higher fares are charged for trips between 2300 and 0600, all day Sunday and public holidays – a surcharge for luggage is often levied and these rates are clearly posted inside the taxi.

Taxis prices are an initial ¬2, plus approximately ¬0.20 for each quarter kilometre or 35.8 seconds of waiting time and a ¬0.50 final charge. There is also a calling fee of ¬2 for licensed Radio Taxis (tel: (01) 31300 or 40100 or 60160 or 81400) and a ¬1 surcharge for hailing a taxi from a Taxistandplatz. Between 2300 and 0600, on Sunday and holidays, the initial charge rises to ¬2.10. Within the city, no additional charges for luggage, pets, driving back without passengers and other circumstances are allowed. A tip of 10% or rounding up to the nearest Euro is common.

Limousines
Limousines and minibuses are available from a number of companies for sightseeing, airport transfers and special occasions. These include Austria Chauffeur Limousines (tel: (01) 512 7000; fax: (01) 512 3800; e-mail: acl@aclvienna.at) and RCV Carey Chauffeur Limousine Service Vienna (tel: (01) 7007 33340; fax: (01) 7007 33377; e-mail: reservation@rcv.at; website: www.awr.co.at). Hire rates cost around ¬280 upwards for an eight-hour day, depending on the type of limousine hired.

Driving in the City
While pedestrian tourists may appreciate the jumble of tiny streets in the Innerestadt, motorists will find it a nightmare. The area is best avoided during the day, although even at night it can be almost impossible to find a parking place on the street. Parking lots are often located underneath squares and their entrances are fairly subtle. Parking costs from ¬5 per hour. Short-term street parking is available in districts one to nine of Vienna’s 23 districts. The designated areas are indicated by a blue line on the road, often only marked at the entrance to the short-term parking zone. Tickets – valid for 30, 60 or 90 minutes – are available for purchase at vending machines and newsagents. Hours and restrictions for these areas vary. Parking is strictly policed and fines are high, especially if the car is towed way. Visitors should note that there are restrictions on parking camper vans anywhere near the city centre. Outside the centre, the Gürtel (Belt) provides a fairly efficient way of getting around the city but can be slow during rush hour, which is 0730–0900 and 1500–1830.

Car Hire
A national driving licence is sufficient for nationals of EU states – other nationalities should obtain an International Driving Permit. The minimum age for hiring a car is usually 21 years, although many firms have a surcharge until 25 years. Third party insurance is mandatory in Austria and those hiring a car should make sure this is covered in the hire contract. A credit card is required.

All of the major car hire firms are represented, including Avis, Opernring 35 (tel: (01) 587 6241; fax: (01) 587 4900; website: www.avis.at), Budget, Landstrasser Hauptstrasse 2 (tel: (01) 7146 5650; fax: (01) 714 7238; website: www.budget.com), Europcar, Schwechat, Flughafen (tel: (01) 7007 33316; fax: (01) 7007 33716; website: www.europcar.at), Hertz, Kärntner Ring 17 (tel: (01) 512 8677; fax: (01) 512 5034; website: www.hertz.at), and Sixt, Schwechat, Flughafen (tel: (01) 7007 36517; fax: (01) 7007 36517; website: www.e-sixt.com). Car hire is also available at the airport and at both Westbahnhof and Südbahnhof stations.

Car hire rates vary between approximately ¬80 and ¬160 per day.

Bicycle Hire
State-owned bicycles are available for hire from Rent a Bike, at train stations Westbahnhof (tel: (01) 5800 32985), Bahnhof Wien Nord (tel: (01) 5800 34817), Bahnhof Floridsdorf (tel: (01) 5800 31011) and Südbahnhof (tel: (01) 5800 35886) for ¬9 per day (¬6.50 with a valid rail ticket and photo identification).

There are a number of private hire companies in the city, principally near the banks of the River Danube, with easy access to the miles of cycle paths along the Danube Island. Pedal Power, Austellungsstrasse 3 (tel: (01) 729 7234; e-mail: office@pedalpower.at; website: www.pedalpower.at) is located just west of the Praterstern U1 underground station. Rates range from ¬17 for four hours to ¬27 for one day (24 hours). Bikes can be delivered to the hotel for a surcharge of around ¬5. Bicycles are available for hire from March to October only.

Rad und Skaterverleih, Copa Cagrana, Donauinsel (tel: (01) 263 5242; fax: (01) 263 5600; e-mail: office@fahrradverleih.at; website: www.fahrradverleih.at), is open from March to October and hires out bicycles for ¬4.80 per hour, ¬14.40 for four hours or ¬24 for a day (6–12 hours). Children’s, tandem and family bikes are also available.

Bicycles may be taken on the U-Bahn for a half-price fare, except during the rush hours. There is a network of well-marked bicycle paths, however, riders should take care in the Innerestadt and along major routes. The Wien Tourismus (see Tourist Information) provides brochures on cycling in Vienna. The Rad Weg, a booklet available from bookshops, shows all the cycle routes.

Business

Business Profile
In addition to being the capital, Vienna is Austria’s economic powerhouse and takes the lead in the administrative, cultural and educational sectors. It is also an important centre for international business and is one of the most sought-after conference venues in the world. Vienna is home to a number of international organisations including the United Nations Industrial Development Organisation (UNIDO), the International Atomic Energy Agency (IAEA), the Organisation of Petroleum Exporting Countries (OPEC), the United Nations International Drug Control Programme (UNDCP) and the World Federation of Tourist Guides Association (WFTGA).

Many of the old small to medium-sized companies have their offices in the main shopping precinct, the First District and Sixth District. Newer businesses have spread out into the suburbs, as far afield as the airport and beyond.

Vienna is the sixth most prosperous region in the EU. One-quarter of Austria’s workforce is employed in the city and the Vienna area generates approximately 28% of the country’s GDP. Around 40% of all Austrian industrial companies are located in Vienna. Most of the industry is small to medium sized – there are very few Austrian multinationals. The unemployment rate for 2002 was 4.0%, compared with the national average of 6.3%. Growth has slowed down due to the government’s restrictive budgeting policy and to the general slowdown in Europe’s economic growth. This remains especially marked in the construction industry and in tourism. The inflation rate remains around the 2% mark.

Since joining the European Union on 1 January 1995, Austria has continued to build on its trade with Western Europe (three-quarters of its trade is with EU nations, with Germany its most important trading partner). At the same time, the country is a major player in the expanding markets of Eastern Europe. Overall, the country has good ties with its neighbours to the east and this translates into strong economic relationships (some 14% of exports are to Eastern European nations). Since it has a small domestic market, Austria is highly dependent on exports. The country has a highly skilled workforce and the fortune of having congenial labour–management relations. Co-operation is mutually beneficial and results in far fewer strike days. Austrians have a high standard of living – within the top 15 countries worldwide – and the competitive marketplace means that consumers demand a high standard of quality and service.

Business Etiquette
The Austrians, especially the Viennese, are extremely formal to strangers. It is essential to address business contacts by their title, until familiarity is well established. English is commonly used in international business settings, however, a few words in German – by way of introduction – will not go amiss. Nevertheless, business dress is not too formal in Vienna and it is possible to go to a business meeting without a tie. It is, however, better for business visitors to err on the side of caution in the first instance.

Business hours are generally Monday to Friday 0800–1600/1700, with many offices closing slightly earlier on Friday at 1500/1600. Austrians greatly enjoy eating in restaurants and business meeting are often scheduled over a long lunch. Breakfast and brunch meetings are also becoming increasingly popular. Business visitors should not suggest lunch as a location for a first meeting, however.

Austrians tend to keep work and social life separate. Overtime and weekend work is rare. On those few occasions when one is invited to a business contact or colleague’s home for dinner, a gift of flowers for the hostess and a bottle of wine for the host is essential, as is punctuality. Visitors to homes should also at least offer to take off their shoes upon entering. Business meals are more for getting to know people, so family and politics should be avoided in conversation.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
The heart of Vienna is the Innerestadt – the area that lay within the city walls, until they were demolished in the mid-19th century. It is here that some of Vienna’s most popular tourist attractions can be found, along with pedestrianised streets lined with countless shops, cafés, bars and restaurants. The centre point is the Graben (literally ‘moat’), which is a wide square lined with shops and pavement cafés under large umbrellas. Following the demolition of the city walls in 1857, the Ringstrasse was laid out and some of Vienna’s most beautiful buildings were built along it, between 1858 and 1865. Among the most important are the Staatsoper (State Opera House), Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Fine Arts), Naturhistorisches Museum (Natural History Museum), Parlament (Parliament), Rathaus (City Hall) and Burgtheater.

Although most major attractions are in the First District, the other inner districts have much to offer. Leopoldstadt (Second District) lies on the eastern side of the Danube Canal, it is here that the massive Prater can be found. Landstrasse (Third District) includes the Schwarzenberg Palace and the Konzerthaus, although the main attraction is the Belvedere Palace. Wieden (Fourth District) is a small neighbourhood that is just as fashionable as the First District. Most of the city’s activity centres are around Karlsplatz, with its domed namesake, Karlskirsch. Margareten (Fifth District) is more residential and the historic homes of Schubert and Gluck still stand here. Mariahelf (Sixth District) includes Vienna’s busiest shopping street, Mariahilferstrass. The Naschmarkt (Produce Market) and the Flohmarkt (Flea Market), on Saturday morning, add to the excitement, while the surrounding streets are packed with Beisls (small restaurants), theatres, cafés and pubs. Neubau (Seventh District) includes the Spittleburg Quarter, where the old houses have been renovated into boutiques, restaurants, theatres and galleries. Josefstadt (Eighth District) was once the area favoured by civil servants – the Josefstadt Theatre, the city’s oldest (1788), is still in operation. Alsergrund (Ninth District) is often called the academic quarter – Freud’s home, now a museum, is located here, as is the Lichtenstein Palace, which now houses the Museum of Modern Art.

Tourist Information
Wien Tourismus
Albertinaplatz/Ecke Maysedergasse
Tel: (01) 2111 4222. Fax: (01) 216 8492.
E-mail: info@info.wien.at
Website: www.info.wien.at
Opening hours: Daily 0900–1900.

Other tourist information offices are located in the airport arrivals area, at Westbahnhof train station, on the Danube Island near Florisdorfer bridge (May to September), Triester Strasse 149 (at the end of the A2 motorway, in the south of the city) and at service centre Auhof on the A1 motorway (to the west of the city). These provide information, make reservations and supply brochures, maps and the Vienna Card (see below). A number of annually printed guides are available, including Kunst & Genuus (Arts & Delights), Architecture, Konzert-Cafés, monthly events and even a Gay Vienna guide.

Passes
The Vienna Card offers discounts of up to 50% at dozens of attractions, 5–10% discount at a number of shops, as well as special offers at a variety of cafés, restaurants and Heurigen (wine taverns). It also includes unlimited travel on the U-Bahn, bus and tram networks (except for night buses) for 72 hours. Passes are available from tourist information offices, hotels and Wiener Linien sales and information counters for ¬16.90. Vienna Cards are also available for purchase in advance with a credit card (tel: (01) 7984 40028). The Wien Tourismus website (see above) shows all the attractions covered by the Vienna Pass.

Key Attractions

Stephansdom (St Stephen’s Cathedral)
The imposing St Stephen’s Cathedral marks Graben’s eastern end and is easily spotted, due to its brightly coloured roof tiles, from more distant viewpoints. Construction began on the cathedral in the 12th century and was completed in 1433. Major restoration and rebuilding work was necessary after the cathedral caught fire at the end of World War II.

Stephansplatz 1
Tel: (01) 5155 23767. Fax: (01) 5155 23191.
Website: www.stephansdom.at
Transport: U-Bahn Stephansplatz.
Opening hours: Daily 0600–2000; services Sat 1900 and Sun 1015 (Sep–Jun), Sun 0930 (Jul–Aug); guided tours Mon–Sat at 1030 and 1500, Sun 1500.
Admission: ¬2 (south tower); ¬3 (north tower); ¬3 (catacombs); ¬3 (guided tour).

Hofburg
The Imperial Palace until 1918, the Hofburg is almost a city in itself. Today, it houses the office of the Austrian president, an international conference centre, a number of museums, the chapel where the Vienna Boys’ Choir sings and the hall in which the Lipizzan stallions perform. Visitors can tour the Kaiserappartements (Imperial Apartments), including Franz-Josef’s private rooms, the great audience hall, dining rooms and staterooms. The Hofsilber- und Tafelkammer (Court Silver and Tableware Chamber) is also on show. The Schatzkammer (Treasury), Schweizerhof 1, contains stunning exhibits that exemplify the power and wealth of one of Europe’s most important empires. The Imperial crown of the Holy Roman Empire rests here, as does the crown of the Austrian Empire, the 15th-century Burgundian treasure and the treasure of the Order of the Golden Fleece.

Innerer Burghof 1, Kaisertor
Tel: (01) 533 7570 (Imperial Apartments and Court Silver) or 533 7931 (Treasury). Fax: (01) 5337 57033 (Imperial Apartments and Court Silver) or 5332 4352 (Treasury).
Transport: Main entrance on Michaelerplatz at the western end of Kohlmarkt, nearest U-Bahn Herrngasse (U3).
Opening hours: Daily 0900–1700 (Imperial Apartments and Court Silver); Wed and Fri–Mon 1000–1800, Thurs 1000–2100 (Treasury).
Admission: ¬7.50 (Imperial Apartments and Court Silver), ¬8 (Treasury).

Spanische Hofreitschule (Spanish Riding School)
For over 400 years, the horses of the Spanish Riding School have performed their elegant manoeuvres at the Imperial Stables. The Lipizzaner Museum Wien (situated at the stables) traces the history of these renowned performing horses and offers the opportunity to see into the animals’ quarters. The easiest way for visitors to see the horses in action is at their morning training sessions, 1000–1200 Tuesday to Saturday. Tickets to the training sessions, which involve classical dressage exercise to music, are only available at the door on the day. Tickets for the actual performances are in high demand and need to be booked well in advance. The season generally runs from March to June and from September to December. Gala performances vary from month to month, usually Saturday or Sunday mornings and occasionally Friday evenings. Tickets are available on the Internet, by post or by fax and cost ¬35–105 (seated) or ¬24–28 (standing room). Final dress rehearsals before the season starts are cheaper (¬20) and tickets are available on a first-come-first-served basis.

Michaelerplatz 1 (Riding School ticket office), Reitschulgasse 2 (Lipizzaner Museum)
Tel: (01) 533 9031 (Riding School) or 5252 4416 (Lipizzaner Museum). Fax: (01) 535 0186.
E-mail: office@srs.at or lipizzaner@khm.at
Website: www.spanische-reitschule.com or www.lipizzaner.at
Transport: U-Bahn Stephansplatz; tram D, J, 1 or 2; bus 57A to Burgring.
Opening hours: Daily 0900–1800 (museum); Tues–Sat 1000–1200 (morning training sessions).
Admission: ¬5 (museum); ¬11.50 (training sessions); ¬14.50 (combined ticket); concessions available.

Schloss Schönbrunn (Schönbrunn Palace)
Schönbrunn Palace is Vienna’s answer to Versailles and was used as the summer residence of the Hapsburgs from the 18th century until 1918. Of the 1411 rooms in the palace, 40 are open to the public. The golden-yellow palace is set within equally magnificent gardens, landscaped in the Baroque style, with some monumental views. The palace and gardens are included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. The Gloriette is a triumphal arch that stands on the hilltop behind the palace and affords a stunning view over the grounds and the city beyond. The Palmenhaus (Palm House) and Schmetterlingshaus (Butterfly House) are excellent examples of late 19th-century architecture, with cast iron columns delicately holding up the glass walls and roof. The ‘Roman ruins’ in the garden are a typical folly (built during the Hapsburg’s time) and are often used for staging summer productions of Don Giovanni. The world’s oldest zoo can be found in the park. It was commissioned in 1752, to amuse and educate the court.

Schönbrunner Schloss Strasse 13
Tel: (222) 8111 3239. Fax: (222) 8111 3333.
E-mail: info@schoenbrunn.at
Website: www.schoenbrunn.at
Transport: U-Bahn Schönbrunn or Hietzing (Zoo).
Opening hours: Daily 0830–1700 (Apr–Oct, until 1900 Jul and Aug); daily 0830–1630 (Nov–Mar).
Admission: ¬7.50 (audio-guided ‘Imperial’ tour of 22 rooms); ¬9.80 (extended, audio-guided ‘Grand’ tour of 40 rooms); ¬14 (VIP Pass, including the Grand Tour, the Bergl Rooms, the Maze, the Gloriette viewing terrace and the Court Bakery, Apr–Oct only).

Belvedere
The Oberes Belvedere (Upper Belvedere Palace), which was built in 1721–23, for Prince Eugene of Savoy, offers terrific views across the gardens to the Unteres Belvedere (Lower Belvedere) and the city beyond. Artwork from the middle ages and the Baroque era is featured in the Unteres Belvedere. The Oberes Belvedere houses art from the 19th-century classical, Romantic and Biedermeier periods on the second floor and post-1918 art on the ground floor. The first floor, however, is what draws visitors, with paintings by Gustav Klimt (including der Küss), Egon Schiele and other fin-de-siècle artists.

Österreichische Galerie Belvedere, Prinz Eugenstrasse 27
Tel: (01) 79557. Fax: (01) 798 4337.
E-mail: belvedere@belvedere.at
Website: www.belvedere.at
Transport: U-Bahn Südbahnhof; tram D.
Opening hours: Tues–Sun 1000–1800.
Admission: ¬7.50 (special exhibitions cost extra); concessions available.

Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Fine Arts)
This museum was built to house the Imperial Hapsburg collections in one place, although these have now grown to such an extent that some are housed in the Hofburg and in Schönbrunn Palace (see above). The grand staircase in the Kunsthistorisches Museum provides passage to the galleries, which include the Antiquities, Egyptian-Oriental and Coin collections. The Kunstkammer (art chamber) houses sculpture and decorative arts. The Gemäldegalerie (picture gallery) has works by Old Masters – including Dürer, Raphael, Rembrandt, Rubens and Titian – and the most comprehensive collection of Brueghels in the world.

Maria-Theresien-Platz 1
Tel: (01) 525 240. Fax: (01) 5252 4503.
E-mail: info@khm.at
Website: www.khm.at
Transport: U-Bahn Babenbergerstrasse or Volkstheater.
Opening hours: Tues–Sun 1000–1800 (until 2100 Thurs).
Admission: ¬9 (including special exhibitions); concessions available.

Naturhistorisches Museum (Natural History Museum)
The Naturhistorisches Museum is the mirror image of the Kunsthistorisches Museum, housing collections of anthropological, geological and palaeontological exhibits, including a variety of dinosaur and ice-age mammal fossils. A highlight among the prehistoric artefacts is the 25,000-year-old ‘Venus of Willendorf’ sculpture.

Maria-Theresien-Platz 1
Tel: (01) 521 770. Fax: (01) 523 5254.
Website: www.nhm-wien.ac.at
Transport: U-Bahn Babenbergerstrasse or Volkstheater.
Opening hours: Wed–Mon 0900–1800 (until 2100 Wed).
Admission: ¬6.50 (concessions available).

Further Distractions

Prater
The Prater is a giant wooded park, fairground and the location of one of Vienna’s most famous sights – the century-old Riesenrad (Giant Ferris Wheel). Harry Lime fought here in The Third Man (1949) and Ethan Hawke and Julie Delpy fell in love here in Before Sunrise (1995).

Prater
Tel: (01) 969 7817.
E-mail: info@wiener-prater.at
Website: www.wiener-prater.at
Transport: S-Bahn or U-Bahn Praterstern; trams O, 5 or 21.

Riesenrad (Giant Ferris Wheel)
Prater 90
Tel: (01) 729 5430. Fax: (01) 7295 43020.
E-mail: info@wienerriesenrad.com
Website: www.wienerriesenrad.com
Opening hours: Daily 0900–2400 (May–Sep); daily 1000–2200 (Mar-Apr and Oct); daily 1000–2000 (Nov–Feb).
Admission: ¬7.50.

KunstHausWien (Vienna Art House)
KunstHausWien is the unmistakable architectural expression of Friedensreich Hundertwasser’s unique vision. Appearing like a Klimt painting as seen through a kaleidoscope, the building contains an exhibition of Hundertwasser’s artwork as well as a bright café with a chic clientele and relaxing garden. The goulash is excellent. The nearby Hundertwasserhaus is an apartment project, which can only be viewed from the street.

Untere Weissgerberstrasse 13
Tel: (01) 712 0491. Fax: (01) 712 0496.
E-mail: information@kunsthauswien.com
Website: www.kunsthauswien.com
Transport: Trams N and O to Radetskyplatz.
Opening hours: Daily 1000–1900.
Admission: ¬8; all exhibitions half price on Monday; concessions available for large groups.

Kaisergruft (Imperial Burial Vault)
The Imperial Burial Vault in the Kapuzinerkirche (Capuchin Church), which was build between 1622 and 1632, is well worth a visit. The vault became the burial place of the Hapsburgs and the highlight is the double casket of Maria-Theresa and Franz I.

Neuer Markt 1
Tel: (01) 5126 85316.
Website: www.kaisergruft.at
Transport: U-Bahn Stephansplatz or Karlsplatz.
Opening hours: Daily 0930–1530.
Admission: ¬3.60.

Haus der Musik (House of Music)
The Haus der Musik is a major new addition to Vienna’s museum scene, offering a link between technology and art. The ground floor has concert spaces and a wine bar, while the first floor houses the museum of the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra, where visitors are given the opportunity to view the last New Year’s Day Concert. The second floor is the Sonosphere, where many aspects of sound are presented, using hands-on computer technology and giant instruments. The third floor is dedicated to historic displays of great Viennese composers, from Haydn to Berg. One room features the Virtual Conductor, where visitors can use virtual technology to conduct the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra. The fourth floor includes the Brain Opera, an interactive musical environment with unique ultramodern musical instruments. The fifth floor includes concert rooms and an excellent café with superb views over St Stephen’s Cathedral. All exhibitions are presented in both German and English and anyone can happily spend hours here, whether musically inclined or not.

Seilerstätte 30
Tel: (01) 516 4851. Fax: (01) 516 4848.
E-mail: info@haus-der-musik-wien.at
Website: www.hdm.at
Transport: U-Bahn Stephansplatz, Karlsplatz or Schwarzenbergplatz.
Opening hours: Daily 1000–2200.
Admission: ¬8.50 (Haus der Musik); ¬5 (Vienna Philharmonic Museum); ¬10 (combination ticket).

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
There are 11 tours available in English (and many more in German), as part of the Vienna Walks programme (tel: (01) 876 7111; website: www.viennawalks.tix.at or www.wienguide.at). These vary from ‘Vienna in the Footsteps of The Third Man’, which scouts out the locations of the famous film, to tours of the homes of Mozart, Beethoven and Schubert. Other popular options include tours focusing on a historical period, Jewish life in Vienna, or the underground city of crypts and wine cellars. Tours take one and a half to two and a half hours and cost ¬11–16. Any admission fees and transport on the U-bahn, trams or buses are extra. These tours do not need to be pre-booked.

Original Vienna Walks (tel/fax: (01) 889 2896; e-mail: contact@verliebtinwien.at; website: www.verliebtinwien.at) offers a program of walks in both German and English (August to October). The walks vary, but include Art Nouveau architecture, medieval quarters and hidden courtyards, or the Imperial Palace. Tours are between 90 minutes and two hours and cost ¬10.50, with a minimum of three walkers per group.

Bus Tours
Vienna Sightseeing Tours (tel: (01) 7124 68380; fax: (01) 714 1141; e-mail: vst@viennasightseeingtours.com; website: www.viennasightseeingtours.com) offers a number of half-day city tours, as well as full-day excursions to Prague, Budapest and other locations. The three-and-a-half-hour ‘Historical City Tour’, which includes a visit to Schönbrunn Palace, costs ¬32. Hotel pick-up is arranged and participants are given the option of a free transfer to Vienna Sightseeing Tours’ hop on-hop off service, the Vienna Line. This sightseeing bus route has 13 stops and departs 1000, 1100, 1300, 1400, 1500 and 1600 from the Staatsoper. A full circuit takes two hours and 45 minutes, while full hop-on hop-off day tickets cost ¬18. These are available for purchase on the bus, at the Staatsoper stop or from many hotel concierges.

Cityrama (tel: (01) 534 1312; e-mail: office@cityrama.at; website: www.cityrama.at) offers a similar full city tour, as well as number of other tours of Vienna and other destinations, in both German and English. The ‘Sisi Tour’ (Sisi is the name given to Emperor Franz Joseph’s wife, Elisabeth) covers the historical sites of the city and includes a visit to St Stephen’s Cathedral, Hofburg and a training session at the Spanish Riding School. The three-hour tour costs ¬33, which does not include entrance to the Spanish Riding School. Free hotel pick-up is arranged.

Boat Tours
The DDSG Blue Danube Schiffahrt GmbH (tel: (01) 588 800; fax: (01) 5888 0440; e-mail: info@ddsg-blue-danube.at; website: www.ddsg-blue-danube.at) offers cruises on the River Danube, available daily from mid-April to the end of September. The two sightseeing tours, the ‘Grand Danube River Cruise’ and the ‘Hundertwasser Tour’, go between Schwedenplatz and Reichsbrücke (see Getting There By Water) and it is possible to take one tour in one direction and return on the other tour. Each tour lasts 70–100 minutes and costs ¬10.50 (¬14 return). They also offer themed cruises and evening dance cruises.

Other Tours
Three- to four-hour bicycle tours are provided by Pedal Power, Ausstellungsstrasse 3 (tel: (01) 729 7234; website: www.pedalpower.at), departing from the Prater ferris wheel, daily at 1000 May to September. Tours cost ¬23, which includes a bike and guide, and cover a number of city sites, such as KunstHausWien, St Stephen’s Cathedral and the Danube Canal.

The Old-Timer Tramway, is a sightseeing tour on trams that date from 1929. The tour departs from the Art Nouveau subway pavilion at Karlsplatz on Saturday and Sunday May to October. Tickets and information are available from the information office of the Vienna Transport Authority, Karlsplatz (tel: (01) 587 3186; website: www.wienerlinien.co.at). Points of interest include the Rathskeller, the Burgtheatre, the University of Vienna, the Schönbrunn Palace and the Riesenrad. Tickets for the two-hour tour cost ¬15 (concessions available).

Alternatively, a romantic, albeit expensive, way for visitors to see the city is by a traditional Fiaker (horse-drawn carriage). These are available for hire on Graben and just to the north of St Stephen’s Cathedral, at Heldenplatz (near the Hofburg) and at Albertinaplatz (behind the Staatsoper). The cost for up to four people is approximately ¬40 for 20 minutes (klein), ¬56 for 40 minutes (gross) or ¬95 for one hour (Stunde). The exact prices and lengths of the ride must be negotiated in advance.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Krems an der Donau: Along the River Danube, to the west of Vienna, lies Krems, a thousand-year-old town surrounded by vineyards. The western end, Stein, is the old portion of the town, which contains the street Landstrasse with its old buildings, including the 16th-century town hall. Above Landstrasse, the Renaissance town house, narrow streets and small squares show the structure of the original town. Both the Piaristenkirche and the Wienstadt Museum celebrate the work of medieval artist Johann Martin Schmidt. The 15th-century Steiner Tor gateway marks the end of Stein. Just before the Kremer Tor, at the other end of Landstrasse, is the town’s new Kunst Halle Krems, a major arts venue. The Gozzoburg, at the bottom of Hoher Markt, serves reasonably priced local dishes (closed Tuesday), while Piano, at An der Donaulände, on the banks of the river, is an attractive place for visitors to enjoy a drink.

Trains leave Vienna Franz Josef Bahnhof every two hours (journey time – 1 hour). The last train back to Vienna is at around 2130. Austropa Verkehrsbüro, Undstrasse 6 (tel: (02732) 82676; fax: (02732) 70011; e-mail: austropa.krems@netway.at; website: www.krems.gv.at or www.tiscover.com/krems), is located halfway between Stein and Krems and provides further information.

For a Whole Day

Wachau Valley: Between Krems an der Donau and Melk, the River Danube winds through one of the most beautiful areas of Austria. A variety of outdoor activities are available on this stretch, including watersports, hiking, cycling, boat cruises and wine-tasting tours. The Danube Bike Path follows the river on both banks. Johann Trautsamwieser, Siedlung Erlahof 10, Spitz (tel: (0664) 346 9486; e-mail: j.trantsam@aon.at), rents bicycles throughout out the region for ¬12 per day (¬60 per week). He can bring brings bicycles to any town in the region for a charge of about ¬5. Reservations are needed for a group of cyclists.

Trains to Melk, Pöcham and Ybbs depart from the Westbahnhof, while trains to Krems and Spitz depart from Franz Josef Bahnhof. Further information on the region is available from the Tourismusverband Wachau-Nibelungengau, Undstrasse 6 (tel: (02732) 85620; fax: (02732) 87471; e-mail: wachau@netway.at; website: www.wachau.at or www.tiscover.com/wachau), located halfway between Stein and Krems.

Melk: Founded in 831 and situated on the north bank of the River Danube, approximately half way between Vienna and Linz, Melk is an attractive town with a stunning abbey. Stift Melk, Abt Berthold Dietmayrstrasse 1 (tel: (02752) 555 225; fax: (02752) 555 226; e-mail: kultur.tourismus@stiftmelk.at; website: www.stiftmelk.at), sits atop an escarpment, commanding a large stretch of the river valley. It is a physical testament to the power and authority of both the Babenbergs, who built it over a thousand years ago, and the Benedictine monks, who have occupied it since 1089. The Abbey, which features in Umberto Eco’s novel, The Name of the Rose (1983), contains a museum, a restaurant and park and garden pavilion. The one-hour guided tour of the abbey takes one hour and is available all year round. The abbey is open to the public daily (0900–1800 May to September or 0900–1700 April and October), however, from November to March, it is only accessible to visitors taking the guided tour. Entrance costs ¬6.90 or ¬8.50 with the tour. Entrance to the Abbey Park only costs ¬3. Even those who do not have time to visit the abbey cannot fail to miss it as they approach Vienna by rail or road from the west.

Although a few trains continue on from Krems an der Donau to Melk, there are trains from Vienna’s Westbahnhof to Salzburg and travellers for Melk must change at St Pölten Hofbahnhof for the local line to Amstetten. The trip to Melk takes approximately 70 minutes. Returning to Amstetten, one can either go back to Vienna or continue on the InterCity train to Salzburg, Innsbruck or Bregenz.

Sport

Vienna – with its coffee and cakes – does not appear to be a very sporty city and to a certain extent this is true. Most of the sports in which the residents partake are situated outside the city. World-class skiing is available in the Alps, a couple of hours away. There are fantastic opportunities for hiking and mountain biking in the woods to the west of the city – cycling can be dangerous on some of the roads, however, as these are narrow and twisting in the mountains and the Austrians tend to navigate them at speed. There are also good lakes for sailing and other watersports throughout much of the country. Within Vienna itself, however, there are ample bathing spots along the River Danube and the Old Danube (near the UNO-City). The car-free Donauinsel (Danube Island) provides one long cycling and rollerblading track. There is a skating rink, the Wiener Eislaufverein, within a 20-minute walk southeast of the cathedral (just outside the Am Stadtpark). The rink hires skates and is open between late October and early March, although it gets especially crowded at weekends.

In terms of spectator sports, football is most popular, especially since Vienna has two Max Bundesliga (Premier League) teams. Neither team had a particularly good season in 2001/2002, however. SK Rapid Wien (website: www.skrapid.at), whose players have been wearing their green strip for a century, finished eighth in the league. Meanwhile FK Austria Memphis (website: www.fk-austria.at), formerly FK Austria Wien, finished fourth. The teams play at Gerhard Hanappi Stadion, Keisslergasse 6 (tel: (01) 914 5510; website: www.stadthalle.com), and Franz-Horr-Stadion, Fischhofgasse 14 (tel: (01) 688 0150), respectively.

Tickets to sporting events are usually available at the gate, on the day of the match. However, it is better for visiting spectators to reserve tickets through Kartenbüro Flamm, Kärntner Ring 3 (tel: (01) 512 4225) or the Vienna Ticket Service, Borsegasse 1 (tel: (01) 534 1363; fax: (01) 534 1328).

Fitness centres: There are a number of spas in the area surrounding Vienna, including Thermalbad Oberlaa, Kurbadstrasse 14 (tel: (01) 6800 99600; website: www.oberlaa.at), which is located in the Tenth District of the city. It offers two indoor and two outdoor swimming pools, sauna, solarium, massage and a light-and-sound relaxation bath. Prices start at ¬9.60 for two hours. The adjacent Wellness Park Oberlaa offers tennis, squash, badminton and fitness and aerobics facilities. To get there, visitors should take the U1 to Reumannplatz, then tram 67 to its terminal. On the other side of the city, the Sportanlage Marco Polo, Ruthnergasse 170, in the 21st District (tel: (01) 292 3589), offers everything from a six-hole golf course and putting green to tennis, squash, a fitness centre and sauna – most facilities are open 0800–2300. A day membership for fitness costs ¬6, for golf is ¬8 and for tennis ¬15. Transport is by bus 32A or 36A, although first-time visitors may find it easier to take a taxi from Florisdorf station on the S-Bahn and U6 U-Bahn lines.

Golf: Golf courses around Vienna are chronically overbooked and it is difficult to get a round at short notice. The nearest 18-hole golf course is the Wien Golf Club, Freudenau 65A (tel: (0222) 728 9564), where a round of golf costs ¬60 and membership is not required. However it is only possible to book a round during the week (weekends only as a guest of a member); golfers must be a member of another club and have a handicap of 28 of less. There are also a number of courses situated outside the city where it may be possible to book a round on weekdays.

Tennis: Between its three locations, Tennisplätze Arsenal (website: www.aufdraht.at/arsenal) offers 57 outdoor courts and eight indoor courts. The most convenient location for visitors is at Arsenalstrasse 3 (tel: (01) 799 0101), in the Third District (near the Südbahnhof rail station). The cost is ¬10 before 1700 and ¬13 after. The courts are open 0700–2000.

Shopping

The most interesting shopping locale in Vienna is the inner city, with its narrow streets and elegant façades. The large pedestrian zones on Kärntnerstrasse and Graben meet at the strikingly modern Haas Haus, the mirrored façade of which seems to mock St Stephen’s Cathedral, standing opposite. In addition to exclusive shops, the Haas Haus has a platform on the top floor, for sightseers who fancy a more face-to-face encounter with the cathedral. There are a number of architectural gems in this district – small shops with façades designed by some of Austria’s most famous architects, as well as smaller side streets, often hiding unique and interesting retail opportunities. The Ringstrassengalerien offers the convenience of a shopping centre, a short walk from the State Opera House. The traditional shopping street of the Viennese is Mariahilferstrasse, which stretches from the Ringstrasse towards the Westbahnhof rail station (above the U3 U-Bahn line) between the Sixth and Seventh Districts. This street is home to major international stores selling clothing, music and other familiar commodities, as well as the department stores, Gerngross and the Euro-Center.

Among the many markets in the city, the most popular with locals and tourists alike is the Naschmarkt, a colourful array of fruit and vegetable stalls, shops and eateries, located between the Linke (left) and Rechte (right) Wienzeile streets, near Karlsplatz (beside Kettenbrükegasse U-Bahn station). The market is open within the normal shopping hours Monday to Saturday. Between 0800 and 1200 on Saturday, the Flohmarkt (Flea Market) comes alive at the far end of the Naschmarkt. Some incredible bargains in second-hand clothes and goods, as well as more than a few unusual items, are on sale here. There are a number of Christmas and Advent markets in the city during the festive season. The most popular is the Christkindlmarkt, which is held in front of the Rathaus.

Shoppers in search of souvenirs can choose from the many gifts that bear an image associated with Vienna – St Stephen’s Cathedral, the Giant Ferris Wheel or the Lipizzaner horses. Something a bit more distinctive, such as the Art Deco works produced by the artisans of the Wiener Werkstätten, is available from Joh Backhausen & Sons, Kärntnerstrasse 33. Wiener Porzellanmanufaktur Augarten, Europe’s second oldest porcelain manufacturer, once supplied its hand-painted wares to the Imperial family. Nowadays, visitors can tour its factory at Augartenpalais, in the Second District (tel: (01) 211 2418; fax: (01) 216 6833). Following strict criteria, the Vienna Chamber of Commerce only allows a limited number of companies to use the ‘Wien Products’ logo, a symbol of high quality craftsmanship (website: www.wienproducts.at).

Shops are generally open Monday to Friday 0800/0900–1800 and Saturday 1200–1800 (shops are increasingly open until 1900). The 20% VAT can be reclaimed by visitors from outside the EU, on goods with a value exceeding ¬75. Visitors can do this at the airport, if travelling to a non-EU country. Otherwise, the claim must be made in the final EU country visited. To make a claim, the tax-cheque must be filled in at the time of purchase. After check-in at the airport, the purchased items and tax-cheque must be taken to customs clearance. The customs official will provide a tax stamp, which may be redeemed at any of the airport banks for cash in a variety of currencies. The rebate is approximately 13% of the purchase price. More information is available from Global Refund, Zetschegasse 17 (tel: (01) 798 4400; fax: (01) 798 4044; e-mail: taxfree@at.globalrefund.com; website: www.globalrefund.com).

Culture

Vienna’s role as the capital of an empire that lasted for centuries has meant that artists and musicians have flourished in the city. The musicians who have at one time lived and worked in Vienna are especially remembered by a series of annual festivals. Among the esteemed maestros are Johann Strauss, Franz Schubert, Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, Brahms, Schönberg and Mahler. It was in Vienna that Mozart created his operas and Strauss gave the world the Blue Danube waltz and such beloved operettas as Der Fledermaus. The city’s performance venues are of the highest calibre and include the world-renowned Staatsoper and the Burgtheater – one of the most important theatres in the German-speaking world.

Vienna has been at the centre of a number of artistic movements, notably at the turn of the century, when the members of the Secessionist movement reacted against the rigidity of the bourgeois establishment and the constraints of figurative painting. These artistic periods are writ large in the variety of architecture that graces the city, from splendid Baroque palaces to Otto Wagner’s Art Nouveau U-Bahn stations (on the U4 line, notably Karlsplatz) and Postsparkasse (Post Office Savings Bank). There are wonderful Art Nouveau houses on the Linke Wienzeile (opposite the Naschmarkt) and delightful 20th-century buildings in the Innerestadt, including the Loos Haus (opposite the Hofburg) and boutiques by Hans Hollein. Not to be missed, however, is the Secession, designed by Joseph Maria Olbrich, in 1897. The striking exterior is only the beginning, for Gustav Klimt’s Beethoven frieze lies within. Famous painters, such as Klimt, Egon Schiele and, more recently, Friedensreich Hundertwasser, are an important part of Vienna’s artistic heritage and their works are popular attractions.

Tickets to cultural events are available for purchase from all major concert venues and theatres. Bookings can also be make at Bundestheaterkassen, Hanuschgasse 3 (tel: (01) 5144 42960). A list of the many ticket agencies in Vienna is available online (website: www.magwien.gv.at/english/ticketing.htm).

The tourist office at Albetinaplatz produces a monthly magazine of cultural events, called Programm. Another free monthly listing source is Wien Magazin (website: www.wienmagazin.at) and the weekly tabloid, Falter (website: www.falter.at), which is published (in German) each Wednesday. Classical concerts are listed under ‘Musik-E’, pop, jazz and folk are listed under ‘Musik-U’ and clubs are listed under ‘Party-time’ in the Wienprogramm & Lexikon, yet another weekly cultural magazine. Online information on cultural events in Vienna is readily available (websites: www.viennaonline.at or www.magwien.gv.at/english).

Music: Vienna is probably home to more classical music performances than any other city in the world. In addition to the regular performance season, which generally runs from September to June, there are nine annual festivals and numerous special events. Almost completely obscured in the shadow of the past, is Vienna’s vibrant youth scene, with venues offering everything from punk bands to the latest pop favourites.

The Wiener Staatsoper (Vienna State Opera), Hanuschgasse 3 (tel: (01) 5144 42960; fax: (01) 5144 42969; website: www.wiener-staatsoper.at), performs daily September to June from a repertoire of nearly one hundred operas, operettas and ballets. The splendid opera house makes for a romantic and regal setting in which to see the performances. Standing-room tickets are a bargain at ¬3.50 but the queue for tickets starts in the late afternoon.

The Volksoper (People’s Opera), Währingerstrasse 78 (tel: (01) 5144 43318; fax: (01) 5144 42969; website: www.volksoper.at), is a somewhat smaller venue that stages performances from a repertoire of 50 different, lighter works, including musicals.

The Vienna Boys’ Choir (website: www.wsk.at) is a Viennese institution, having been formed as the Boys’ Choir of the Royal Court in 1498. Together with members of the chorus and orchestra of the Vienna State Opera, they form the Hofmusikkapelle, which performs at Mass in the Chapel of the Imperial Palace at 0915 on Sundays September to June. Seats cost ¬5–30 (standing room is free). Tickets should be ordered at least ten weeks in advance from Hofmusikkapelle, Hofburg, 1010 Vienna (fax: (01) 5339 92775; website: www.wsk.at). The Vienna Boys’ Choir also performs concerts in the Brahms-Saal (Brahms Hall), the venue for chamber music in the Musikverein, Bösendorferstrasse 12 (tel: (01) 505 8190; fax: (01) 5058 68194; e-mail: tickets@musikverein.at; website: www.musikverein-wien.at), Friday at 1600, from April to June and September to October. The programme costs ¬6–36 and consists of madrigals and motets, waltz music and folk songs. Tickets are available from hotels or from the Mondial travel agency, Faulmanngasse 4, 1040 Vienna (tel: (01) 585 2688; fax: (01) 587 1268; e-mail: ticket@mondial.via.at; website: www.mondial-travel.com).

The renowned Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra (tel: (01) 505 6525; fax: (01) 505 9220; e-mail: philoffice@wienerphilharmoniker.at; website: www.wienerphilharmoniker.at) performs at the Musikverein (see above). The annual New Year’s Eve concert is broadcast throughout the world, while the previous year’s concert is now available for viewing in the Haus der Musik (see Further Distractions). The Vienna Symphonic Orchestra (website: www.wiener-symphoniker.at) performs at the Wiener Konzerthaus, Lothringerstrasse 20 (tel: (01) 712 1211; fax: (01) 712 2872; e-mail: ticket@konzerthaus.at; website: www.konzerthaus.at), as well as a few other venues. The Konzerthaus is also home to the Wiener Singakademie choir (website: www.wienersingakademie.at) and hosts touring international orchestras.

The Osterklang (Sounds of Easter) music festival (tel: (01) 4000 8410; fax: (01) 40009 98410; website: www.osterklang.at) takes place annually during Easter week. The festival includes performances by both the Philharmonic and Symphonic orchestras, chamber music concerts and a special opera performance, as well as touring international orchestras and a midnight mass concert in St Stephen’s Cathedral. Tickets cost ¬15–100 (depending on the venue and seating) and visitors can get hold of one by writing to Oster- und Klangbogen Kartenbüro, Stadiongasse 9, 1010 Vienna.

Theatre: Like music, theatre also has a long and proud tradition in Vienna – the patronage of the Imperial Court has been an important factor in its development. There are 50 theatres in the city but the Burgtheater (Palace Theatre), Dr Karl Lueger Ring 2, First District (tel: (01) 5144 4440; website: www.burgtheater.at), stands at the forefront and is an intense source of pride to the Viennese. This impressive edifice is the oldest and one of the most important stages in the German-speaking world. Built on the Ringstrasse in the 19th century, the theatre stages classical and contemporary works of the very highest standards of production. Guided tours are available for ¬5, if booked in advance by writing to the theatre at Dr Karl-Lueger Ring, 1010 Vienna (tel: (01) 5144 42218; fax: (01) 5144 42624).

The Akademietheater, Lisztstrasse 1, Third District (tel: (01) 5144 4740), is the smaller venue where the Burgtheater’s players also perform. The Volkstheater, Neustiftgasse 1 (tel: (01) 524 7263/4; website: www.volkstheater.at), Theater in der Josefstadt, Josefstädter Strasse 26 (tel: (01) 42700; website: www.josefstadt.org), and the Schauspielhaus, Porzellangasse 19 (tel: (01) 317 0101; website: www.schauspielhaus.at), which offers an ambitious experimental programme, are all important German-language theatres in Vienna.

For English-language productions, Vienna’s English Theatre, Josefgasse 12 (tel: (01) 402 1260; fax: (01) 408 8003; website: www.englishtheatre.at), has an excellent reputation on the world stage, to the extent that many contemporary playwrights choose to premier their works here. There are also annual productions of French- and Italian-language works. The International Theatre, Porzellangasse 8 (tel: (01) 319 6272; fax: (01) 310 8997), offers a programme of American and English plays.

The Viennese theatre season traditionally runs from September to June, although there are often special performances in the summer, particularly during one of the many festivals. The larger theatres stage daily productions, while the smaller ones may have one or two nights off. There are also a number of cabarets in the city.

Dance: The Im Puls Tanz dance festival (website: www.impulstanz.com) takes place in July and August, with performances at the Volkstheater Neustiftgasse 1 (tel: (01) 524 7263/4; website: www.volkstheater.at), as well as other venues, where avant-garde dance is showcased by both local and international dance companies.

Film: Many American and British films are shown in the original language with subtitles. Listings are posted on kiosks and in Der Falter (website: www.falter.at). ‘OF’ after the film title indicates that it is shown in its original language without subtitles. ‘Omengu’ indicates that the film is in the original language with English subtitles, ‘OmU’ indicates original language with German subtitles and ‘OmÜ’ means the film is shown in its original language with live German translation. If the title is followed by ‘dF’, this indicates that the film is dubbed into German.

Two of Vienna’s finest cinema complexes are Apollo, Gumpendorferstrasse 63, Sixth District (tel: (01) 587 9651), and UCI Kinowelt, Lasallestrasse 71, Second District (tel: (01) 21100). Vienna cinemas that specialise in English-language films include the English Cinema Haydn, Mariahilferstrasse 57, Sixth District (tel: (01) 587 2262), and Flotten American Center, Mariahilferstrasse 85, Sixth District (tel: (01) 586 5152).

The arthouse Bellaria, Museumstrasse 3, Seventh District (tel: (01) 523 7591), is exactly as it was when it opened just after the war. German films from 1928–55 are shown in the afternoon and newer films in the evenings. Other arthouse cinemas include Filmcasino, Margaretenstrasse 78, Fourth District (tel: (01) 587 9062), Schikaneder, Margaretenstrasse 24, Fourth District (tel: (01) 585 2867), with an innovative programme including parties and exhibitions, and Votiv, Währigerstrasse 12, Ninth District (tel: (01) 317 3571; website: www.votivkino.at), with cinema-breakfasts on certain Sundays.

During the break in the regular opera and classical music schedule (July and August), devotees can enjoy free opera and music films on the giant screen in front of the Rathaus.

The 1949 Carol Reed film, The Third Man, presents an extremely well-known vision of Vienna. In it, Orson Welles plays Harry Lime, who evades the authorities via the sewers and back alleys of bombed-out, post-war Vienna. The Burg-Kino, Opernring 19, shows this film every Friday at 2050 and Sunday at 1415. Amadeus (1984), another film set in Vienna – although shot mainly in Prague – takes a look at Mozart’s last years in the city and the jealousies and intrigues that filled the Imperial Court. For 20-something travellers to the city, Richard Linklater’s Before Sunrise (1995) is required viewing, as it portrays one romantic night in Vienna, between the time that two railway travellers meet up and then depart on their separate ways the following morning.

Cultural events: The Wiener Festwochen (website: www.festwochen.or.at) takes place in May and June, featuring a variety of musical drama, avant-garde theatre, dance and other performances. The Klangbogen Festival (tel: (01) 4000 8410; fax: (01) 40009 98410; website: www.klangbogen.at) fills the gap in the classical music schedule with a number of operas, operettas and orchestral and chamber music events from late June until early September. The Donauinselfest (website: www.donauinselfest.at) offers a modern alternative to Vienna’s rich classical music scene. The end of June sees two million people flock to one of Europe’s biggest outdoor parties. This free event features pop, rock and folk concerts over the course of three days.

Literary Notes
Vienna has been featured in writing throughout the ages. One of the earliest depictions of the area appears in the Nibelungenlied (c.1200), a medieval epic partially set in the Wachau Valley, upstream from Vienna. Later on, when Vienna itself was flourishing, Mozart was probably the most famous inhabitant and he has certainly captured the imagination of those writing about the city. Peter Shaffer wrote the play, Amadeus (1979), about Mozart’s last years in the city. This was made into a film of the same name a few years later. A less thriving post-war Vienna is evocatively portrayed in Graham Greene’s novel, The Third Man (1949), also made into a film.

Nightlife

The most popular cluster of bars is around the Bermuda Dreieck (Bermuda Triangle), the old Jewish Quarter, in the area around Ruprechtskirche. Other districts with fewer tourists include the Spittelberg area, around Amerlinghaus (in the Seventh and Eighth Districts) and in the Fourth District, adjacent to the Naschmarkt. A lot of the best places in Vienna will not be obvious to tourists, as they are strictly marketed at the locals and are not necessarily in the centre of town. Quite a few clubs are filled with ‘schicki-micki’ (style-conscious) partygoers and many of these venues operate choosy door policies, where the beautiful or the correctly dressed waltz past the queue. Alternatives to the club and bar scene abound – hip and trendy Viennese still enjoy traditional favourites, such as Heurigen and the city’s many balls.

Clubs generally stay open until 0200 during the week and 0400 on the weekend, although there is considerable variation. For late, late nights, there are quite a few bars in the First District that are open until 0300, 0400 or even later. The legal drinking age is 18 years. A beer costs, in general, between ¬3 and ¬4, rising to ¬4.50/5 for a small beer in more upmarket bars and clubs.

For information on what kind of sound and crowd to expect on any given night of the week, pick up the Der Falter listings paper (website: www.falter.at) or check out the online information on the club scene (website: www.rave.at).

Balls: The ball season takes place during Fasching, Vienna’s winter carnival season from New Year’s Eve until the beginning of Lent. Of the 300 or so balls, the most prestigious are the New Year’s Eve Imperial Ball and the Opera Ball. The latter is the highlight of the Viennese social calendar and takes place in the elegant surroundings of the Staatsoper, Hanuschgasse 3 (website: www.wiener-staatsoper), on the Thursday before Shrove Tuesday. Waltzers in long gowns and dinner jackets twirl under chandeliers, recalling the splendour and romance of a bygone era. New Year’s Eve is marked not only by the Kaiserball (Imperial Ball) in the Hofburg, Innerer Burghof 1, Kaisertor (website: www.hofburg.com/d/va), but also by the conversion of the city centre into the world’s largest ballroom.

Bars: The American Bar, Kärntnerdurchgang 1, lies just off Kärntnerstrasse. Designed by the famous Austrian architect, Adolf Loos, in 1908, it is a small, quiet space that serves as a good getaway from the crowds. The Spittelberg area (Seventh District) is dotted with bars, including the perennially popular Amerlingsbeisl, Stiftgasse 8, with its leafy garden, and Blue Box, Richtergasse 8 (website: www.ping.at/bluebox), which hosts a different DJ each night. The Bermuda Triangle, in the Jewish area around Schwedenplatz, also contains many attractive bars. Other popular spots include Café Europa, Zollergasse 8, and Chelsea, Lerchenfeldergürtel 29–31 (website: www.silverserver.co.at/chelsea), situated under the S-Bahn arches, with regular live concerts and football by satellite from England.

Casinos: The Casino Wien, Palais Esterházy, Kärntnerstrasse 41 (website: www.casino-wien.at), is the most central of Vienna’s casinos. Casino Wien opens at 1500 and admission is free. The minimum age for admission is 18 years and either an identity card or passport must be shown. Games include roulette, blackjack and poker, as well as 184 slot machines. Dress is smart.

Clubs: One of the hottest clubs in Vienna is Volksgarten, Burgring 1 (on the Ringstrasse), which offers raves on Friday and Saturday from 2200 until late in the morning and draws a very dressed-up crowd. Flex, Augartenbrücke (website: www.flex.at), draws ravers and all sorts of alternative types, while U4, Schönbrunner Strasse 222, is still going strong, with a different theme every night of the week. P1, Rotgasse, is a popular spot for a (very) young international crowd. Club Roxy, Faulmanngasse 4, Lindbergh, Mahlerstrasse 11, and Atrium, Schwindgasse 4, are also worth checking out for a change from the techno scene – the music at these venues tends to be the latest dance hits and nothing too heavy.

Coffee Houses (Kaffeehäuser): The coffee shops are an essential part of Viennese life. For the price of a coffee – anything upwards of ¬2 – one can sit for hours with the papers, some work, a book, or just watching the world go by. The new ‘szene houses’ attract a young, trendy crowd. Stein, Währingerstrasse 6–8; website: www.cafe-stein.com), is the king of the new style, with minimalist decor, Internet facilities, veggie fare and all-day breakfasts. Café Demel, Kohlmarkt 14, is the best and most expensive of the old-style cafés – the pastries are not to be missed.

Heurigen: Originally the Viennese word for the wine of the latest harvest, the word heuriger now also refers to the place where this wine is sold. Each heuriger can only sell the wine produced on its own estate – and only for a maximum of 300 days per year. Although it is possible to have heurigen in the centre of the city, the best locations are in the small villages in the Tenth to 23rd Districts, such as Grinzing, Nussdorf, Heiligenstadt, Sievering and Stammersdorf. See also Restaurants.

Live music: A converted porn cinema, Porgy & Bess, Riemengasse 11 (website: www.porgy.or.at), near the Stubentor U-bahn stop, is now Vienna’s best jazz club. Clair Piano Bar, Naglergasse 23, and Jazzland, Franz-Josefs-Kai 23 (website: www.jazzland.at), both offer what their names suggest. Open-air concerts are held on the Donauinsel (Danube Island) in summer, while larger rock concerts are performed at the Ernst-Happel-Stadion, Meiereistrasse 2. The main indoor venue for large acts is the Wiener Stadthalle, Vogelweidplatz 14 (website: www.stadthalle.com).

City Statistics

Location: Vienna (federal province), eastern Austria.
Country dialling code: 43.
Population: 1,660,000 (city); 1,710,000 (metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix: Majority German, with Croatian, Slovenian and Hungarian minorities.
Religion: 89% Roman Catholic, 6% Protestant, 5% other.
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50 Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 1°C (34°F).
Average July temp: 25°C (77°F).
Annual rainfall: 616mm (24.3 inches).

Special Events

Vienna Philharmonic’s New Year’s Concert, 1 Jan, Musikverein
Carnival and Ball Season, 2 Jan to Shrove Tuesday (day before Lent), venues throughout the city
Resonanzen, Middle Ages/Baroque music, mid-Jan, Konzerthaus
Opera Ball, last Thurs before Lent (Feb/Mar), Staatsoper
Haydn Festival, third week Feb–first week Mar, various venues
Vienna Spring Festival, arts festival with opera, concerts and plays, mid-Mar–mid-Apr, various venues
Osterklang (Sounds of Easter), music festival, late Mar–early Apr, various venues
Vienna Mozart Week, mid-Apr, various venues
Festwochen Wien (Vienna Festival), festival featuring music, drama and dance, mid-May–mid-Jun, throughout the city
Vienna City Marathon, late Apr/May, begins Arbeiterstrandbadstrasse/Wagramerstrasse and ends Heldenplatz
Donauinselfest (Danube Island Festival), contemporary music festival, late Jun weekend, Donauinsel
Vienna Jazz Festival, first two weeks Jul, various venues
Klangbogen (Musical Summer), music festival, Jul–Aug, various venues
Viennale Film Festival, end of Oct, various cinemas throughout the city
Wien Modern, 20th-century music festival, late Oct–late Nov, various venues, especially the Konzerthaus
International Choir Competition, mid-Nov, Konzerthaus
Brahms Festival, mid-Nov, Musikverein
Christkindlmarkt (Christmas Market), mid-Nov–24 Dec, Rathausplatz, Spittleberg Quarter, Freyung (corner of Innerstadt) and throughout the city
Kaiserball (Imperial Ball), 31 Dec, Hofburg
Silvester in Wien (New Year in Vienna), ball, 31 Dec, Innerstadt
Vienna Philharmonic’s New Year’s Concert, 31 Dec, Musikverein

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: ¬0.50
50cl bottle of beer: ¬0.55
Financial Times newspaper: ¬2.40
36-exposure colour film: ¬6
City-centre bus ticket: ¬1.50
Adult football ticket: ¬21
Three-course meal with wine/beer: From ¬18

1 Euro (¬1) = £0.68; US$1.19; C$1.39; A$1.56
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005