World City Guide

Mini Guide of Washington, DC

City Overview

It is hard to believe, but the land on which Washington, DC’s elegant National Mall and its stately buildings stand was once a marshy swamp. George Washington created this special district as a federal power hub to avoid the problem of establishing the capital city in any one state. Its strategic location, with accessibility to the sea via the Potomac River and between the South and the North, made it an attractive site. Originally designed by the French architect Pierre L’Enfant in 1791, Washington is a city of green parks, wide tree-lined streets and very few skyscrapers, all of which give it a European air. It is very much a purpose-built capital, a city of grand buildings (such as the White House and the US Capitol) and impressive monuments (the Washington Monument and the Lincoln Memorial, to name but two).

Congress and the second President, John Adams, moved to Washington, DC in 1800, but it was a further six decades before it began to look like a capital city. In the interim period, foreign ambassadors considered it a hardship posting. Now, this political centre stage, capital of the most powerful nation in the world, is the place to be. Washington, DC is always in the international spotlight. Occasionally this attention is not welcome, for example, the world’s largest concentration of spies lurks around the city. Washington, DC has also had its share of political scandal, such as the Watergate affair, Mayor Marion Barry’s imprisonment for drug offences, the Monica Lewinsky affair and the painful struggle of the 2000 presidential elections. The nation’s capital was once again in the spotlight on 11 September, but this time for tragic reasons, as a hijacked plane crashed into the Pentagon. Since that time, barricades, blocked-off streets, police and security checks have given parts of the city a different façade.

Washington, DC (Washington to visitors and DC or the District to locals) is divided into four quadrants – northwest (NW), northeast (NE), southeast (SE) and southwest (SW). It is a city of neighbourhoods, each with its own diverse culture. Capitol Hill, beyond the Capitol, is a blend of government buildings, townhouses and speciality shops and restaurants. Foggy Bottom, also home to several government buildings, is now a charming, quiet neighbourhood. Perhaps the most famous is Georgetown, a historic district with elegant 18th- and 19th-century townhouses, home to many influential residents, as well as chic restaurants and shops. One of the most colourful neighbourhoods is Adams Morgan, with an eclectic mix of international restaurants, sidewalk cafés, ethnic stores and late-night entertainment.

After the federal government, tourism is the capital’s primary industry. Over 19 million tourists explore the city each year, preferring to see the sites during fall, spring and summer rather than in winter when hotel rates drop, and it can be bitterly cold and wet. They are drawn by the wealth of impressive monuments and museums, many of which have free entry. Other important industries located here include trade associations, law, higher education and publishing. The city is also the headquarters for the World Bank and the International Monetary Fund.

Though wealthy on the surface, the city has the dubious distinction as having a high crime rate, plus high unemployment, illiteracy and drug abuse. All of this has driven middle-class families out of the city centre into the suburbs and neighbouring states. Mayor Williams has made great strides in cleaning up and revitalising the city. Despite the city’s problems, the power and the politics are a heady mix. So much American history is crammed into the city with its wealth of monuments, public buildings, museums and memorials to past heroes that visitors cannot fail to be impressed.

Getting There By Air

Washington Dulles International Airport (IAD)
Tel: (703) 572 2700.
Website: www.metwashairports.com/dulles

The airport is located 42km (26 miles) west of the city and operates both domestic and international flights. Over 17.2 million passengers used the airport in 2002. Two recently opened facilities provide public parking for 20,000 vehicles.

Major airlines: 34 passenger airlines fly out of Dulles. They include Aeroflot, Air Canada, Air France, AirTran Airlines, Alaska Airlines, All Nippon Airways, American Airlines, Austrian Airlines, bmi British Midland, British Airways, BWIA British West Indies Airlines, Continental Airlines, Delta Airlines, Ethiopian Airlines, Grupo TACA International Airlines, JetBlue, Korean Air, Lufthansa, KLM, Northwest Airlines, Saudi Arabian Airlines, SAS, Swiss; United Airlines, US Airways and Virgin Atlantic. Several regional carriers and cargo carriers also use the airport.

Airport facilities: These include bureaux de change, ATMs, visitor information, several car hires including Avis, Dollar and Hertz, duty-free, shops, restaurants and bars. Dulles is a non-smoking facility.

Business facilities: Business service centres are located at the east end (tel: (703) 572 2963) and west end of the upper level of the main terminal. They provide bureau de change facilities, insurance, fax, stamps, photocopying and notary services. They are open daily 0700-2100.

Transport to the city: The Washington Flyer Coach Service (tel: (888) 927 4359 (WASHFLY), toll free in the USA and Canada, or (703) 572 8400; website: www.washfly.com ) operates a service linking Dulles with West Falls Church Metro station every 30 minutes 0545-2215 during the week and 0745-2215 at weekends (journey time – 25-30 minutes). A one-way fare is US$8 or US$14 round-trip. Washington Flyer Taxi Cabs (tel: (703) 661 6655; website: www.mwaa.com/dulles/ground.htm#flyertaxi ) depart from the lower level of the main terminal and costs about US$44-50 to Downtown (journey time – 30-45 minutes, depending on the traffic). SuperShuttle buses (tel: (202) 296 6662 or (800) BLUE VAN or (800) 258 3826, toll free in the USA and Canada; website: www.supershuttle.com ) operate a 24-hour service downtown costing approximately US$22 or US$40 round-trip plus US$10 for each additional person (journey time – 50 minutes).

Baltimore/Washington International Airport (BWI)
Tel: (800) 435 9294 or (301) 261 1000.
Website: www.bwiairport.com

The airport is located 55km (34 miles) northeast of downtown Washington and 20 airlines, both domestic and international, use this facility. About 19.01 million people passed through BWI in 2002, a decrease of 6.7% on 2001 figures.

Major airlines: Southwest Airlines (tel: (800) 435 9792, toll free in the USA and Canada; website: www.southwest.com ) use Baltimore/Washington as its hub. Other airlines serving the airport include Air Canada, American Airlines, British Airways, Continental Airlines, Delta, Icelandair, Northwest Airlines, TWA, United Airlines and US Airways.

Approximate flight times to Baltimore: From London is 8 hours 30 minutes; from New York is 1 hour; from Los Angeles is 5 hours 45 minutes; from Toronto is 1 hour 45 minutes and from Sydney is 20 hours.

Airport facilities: These include bureaux de change, ATMs, visitor information, several car hires including Alamo, Avis and Hertz, duty-free, shops, restaurants and bars.

Business facilities: Thomas Cook facilities, located in various terminals, offer fax and photocopying and mailing services.

Transport to the city: SuperShuttle buses (tel: (800) 258 3826, toll free in the USA and Canada; website: www.supershuttle.com ) operate a request service to downtown costing approximately US$30 one way with additional passengers costing US$10 (journey time – 1 hour). MTA/MARC trains (tel: (410) 539 5000 or (800) 325 RAIL (7245) locally and (888) 226 5515 tickets by mail; website: www.mtamaryland.com ) cost US$6 each way and connect the airport with Union Station Monday-Friday 0500-2400 (journey time – 40 minutes). Amtrak trains (tel: (202) 484 7540 or (800) 872 7245 (USARAIL), toll free in the USA and Canada; website: www.amtrak.com ) run a regular service from the airport to Union Station starting at US$9. The fares for the speedy Acela and Metroliner train begin at US$38. The taxi fare to Downtown costs approximately US$55.

Ronald Reagan National Airport (DCA)
Tel: (703) 417 8000.
Website: www.metwashairports.com/national

The airport is located five kilometres (three miles) south of the city along the Potomac River. The airport’s three terminals serve 64 domestic destinations and three Canadian/Caribbean ones. In total, 20 airlines and about 12.9 million passengers use the airport each year.

Major airlines: Ronald Reagan National Airport serves Air Canada, Alaska Airlines, America West, American Airlines, American Trans Air, Continental Airlines, Delta Airlines, Frontier Airlines, Midway Express Airlines, Northwest Airlines, United Airlines and US Airways. Several regional airlines also use this airport.

Airport facilities: These include bureaux de change, ATMs, visitor information, car hire (Avis, Budget, Dollar, Hertz and National), shops, restaurants, bars and cafés.

Business facilities: Fax, photocopying, notary and other services are provided by the customer service centres (tel: (703) 417 3200 or 3201) in Terminals B and C daily from 0700-2100.

Transport to the city: Metrorail lines (tel: (202) 637 7000; website: www.wmata.com ) link National Airport to Downtown. SuperShuttle buses (tel: (800) 258 3826, toll free in the USA and Canada; website: www.supershuttle.com ) operate a regular service to downtown costing approximately US$10 plus US$9 per additional passenger (journey time – 30 minutes). Limousine service is available for approximately US$42. Taxis to Downtown normally cost between US$9-19.

Approximate flight times to Washington, DC: From London is 7 hours 45 minutes; from New York is 1 hour 15 minutes; from Los Angeles is 4 hours 45 minutes; from Toronto is 1 hour 30 minutes and from Sydney is 20 hours.

Arrival/departure tax: This is included in the ticket price.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Visitors must possess a full national driving licence to drive in America. Traffic drives on the right and technically overtaking should only be done on the left lane, although, in reality, cars on a five-lane highway often pass on both sides. At traffic lights, right turns on the red light are permitted if the way ahead is clear. At crossroads without traffic lights, the four-way stop system means that it is first come first served, or if two cars arrive simultaneously, the one on the right has the right of way. Seat belts are required for the driver and all passengers. Freeway driving speeds are 88-113kph (55-70mph). The speed limit on all roads within the DC area is 40kph (25mph). The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.10%. All traffic must stop when school bus hazard lights are flashing.

The American Automobile Association (AAA; tel: (800) 222 1333, toll free in the USA and Canada; website: www.aaa.com ) can provide information and may offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries.

Emergency breakdown service: AAA (800) AAA HELP or 222 4357

Routes to the city: I-66 heads west into Virginia; I-50 to Annapolis in Maryland; I-95 to Baltimore, Richmond, Philadelphia and New York; and I-270 to Maryland and beyond.

Driving times to Washington, DC: From Baltimore – 50 minutes; Richmond – 2 hours; New York – 4 hours 45 minutes.

Coach services: Greyhound long-distance buses operate from the 24-hour Greyhound bus terminal, 1005 First Street, NE (tel: (800) 229 9424 or (202) 289 5154; website: www.greyhound.com ). Facilities in the station are limited, with food outlets and a gift shop selling snacks and newspapers. Peter Pan Trailways (tel: (800) 343 9999, toll free in the USA and Canada; website: www.trailways.com ) also connects Washington, DC with many cities throughout America. The service operates from the same bus terminal.

Getting There By Rail

Amtrak services (tel: (202) 906 3307 or (800) 872 7245 (USARAIL), toll free in the USA and Canada; website: www.amtrak.com ) cover long-distance routes from Washington, DC, while MTA/MARC trains (tel: (410) 539 5000; website: www.mtamaryland.com ) connect with points in Maryland. Train services operate Monday to Friday 0500-2400. The vast Union Station is on 50 Massachusetts Avenue and extensive facilities include restaurants, shops, ATMs and left-luggage. The ticket office (tel: (800) USA RAIL (872 7245) for fares and schedules) is open 0430-2300 weekdays and 0500-2300 weekends. Tickets can also be purchased from the 24-hour Quik-Trak ticketing machines.

Rail services: Amtrak operates long-distance services, including regular departures to Philadelphia (journey time – 1 hour 35 minutes), New York (2 hours 45 minutes) and Chicago (17 hours 30 minutes). The Acela Express, introduced in 2000, has cut 15 minutes or more off the current Metroliner service journey time to New York of about three hours. MTA/MARC operates local services, including to Baltimore and other towns in Maryland.

Transport to the city: The station is served by the Metro bus system as well as the Union Station Metro station.

Getting Around

Public Transport
The Washington Metropolitan Area Transit Authority (tel: (202) 962 1234; website: www.wmata.com ) operates the Metro system. The Metro is an efficient and comfortable system, consisting of a subway and buses, which operates throughout the city as a fast and efficient alternative to the heavy traffic congestion experienced in the city. Information can be obtained by telephone (tel: (202) 637 7000; 0600-2230, Mon-Thurs, 0600-2330, Fri, 0700-2330, Sat and 0700-2230 on Sun).

Five subway lines (red, orange, blue, green and yellow), known as the Metrorail, cover the city, extending into Maryland and Virginia. Metrorail fares are zonal, ranging from US$1.20 to US$3.60, during off-peak hours. There is a one-day Metrorail Pass costing US$6, which is valid after 0930 or all day at the weekend. A Seven-day Fast Pass offers unlimited rail travel for US$30. There is a flat fee of US$1.20 (exact money only) on the bus system. A Regional One-day Pass costs US$3 and allows unlimited travel on the buses. A combined Metrorail/bus pass is available from Sunday to Saturday allowing unlimited travel on the Metro bus and subway for US$30.

The Metrorail operates 0530-2400 Monday to Thursday, 0530-0300 on Friday, 0700-0300 on Saturday and 0700-2400 on Sunday. Metrobus operates 24 hours per day but service intervals vary.
Taxis
Taxis in Washington, DC are operated on a zone system and are not metered, although there are plans to introduce meters. By law, passengers must wear seat belts. The base fare for one zone is US$5.00 for one passenger with extra charges of US$1.50 for each additional passenger and a US$1.00 surcharge per person for travel during the weekday morning and evening rush hours (0700-0930 and 1600-1830). Tips of around 15% of the fare are expected. Cab drivers are entitled to pick up other fares en route if those people are travelling in the same direction. Providers include Diamond Cab Co. (tel: (202) 387 6200), Yellow Cab (tel: (202) 544 1212; website: www.dcyellowcab.com ) and Mayflower Cab Company (tel: (202) 783 1111).

Limousines
As befits a city with the status of Washington, DC, deluxe cars are often seen on its streets. Luxury stretch, super and ultra limousines can be hired from various providers. American Eagle Limousine Service (tel: (703) 550 7200 or (800) 730 7878, toll free in the USA and Canada; website: www.americaneaglelimo.com ) has a full range of limousines ranging in price from US$95-300 per hour (minimum hire period of three hours). Big Time Limos (tel: (202) 841 1375; website: www.biglimos.com ) has limousines carrying up to 10 passengers starting at US$75 per hour with a minimum hire period of three hours.

Driving in the City
When city planning began under Major Pierre L’Enfant, he could never have envisaged the demands of modern traffic. However, the streets are laid out in a basic grid pattern, divided into four quadrants, which makes navigation pretty straightforward. Streets running north-south in the centre are numbered while letters designate east-west streets. Roads running diagonally to the general grid pattern are named after American states. One must also be alert to confusing traffic circles and one-way streets. Unless otherwise specified, the city speed limit is 25 mph (40 kmh).

The Capital Beltway, made up of Interstates I-95 and I-495, encircles the city. Because this road is frequently clogged with traffic, it is often difficult to cross the lanes to get to the road exit required. During rush hours (0630-0900 and 1600-1830), carpool regulations govern the number of people in vehicles for certain lanes. Certain lanes and even streets change direction for morning/evening rush hours, in order to alleviate the congestion. Unless otherwise indicated, right turns on a red light are permitted if it is safe to proceed.

Parking restrictions apply during rush hours and some weekend hours. Illegally parked cars are towed away to a car pound that is only open for retrieval Monday-Friday. Meter parking is available for up to one hour, although it is normally free on the weekend. In residential neighbourhoods, parking is often reserved for the residents with a specially displayed zone sticker. In some neighbourhoods, it is possible to park for a two-hour period. Though spaces tend to go quickly, free all-day parking is available in West Potomac Park on Ohio Drive, SW, south of the Lincoln Memorial as well as south of the Jefferson Memorial in East Potomac Park. Parking Guide Magazine provides information on parking locations and costs around Washington. Because of the chronic lack of parking spaces, most visitors use the public transport system.

Car Hire
Insurance is compulsory when hiring and it should also be confirmed that there is adequate Loss Damage Waiver and personal liability insurance. The minimum rental age is generally 25 years but, for a costly surcharge, some companies will rent cars to drivers aged between 21 and 24 years. Renters must be in possession of a valid driver’s licence. Most car rental companies have offices in the city, including Alamo, Washington Union Station (tel: (800) 327 9633 or (202) 842 7454; website: www.alamo.com ), Avis, 1722 M Street, NW (tel: (800) 331 1212 or (202) 686 5149; website: www.avis.com ); Budget, 50 Massachusetts Avenue, NE (tel: (800) 527 0700 or (202) 289 5373; website: www.budget.com ), and Hertz, 901 11th Street, NW (tel: (800) 654 3131 or (202) 628 6174; website: www.hertz.com ). Rates including taxes cost approximately US$27-49 for one-day rental of a two-door compact car.

Bicycle Hire
It is probably best not to attempt to cycle around the city, as the traffic is so heavy. However, there are plenty of enjoyable rides along the Potomac River and around the major sites where it is possible to avoid the traffic. Better Bikes (tel: (202) 293 2080; website: www.betterbikesinc.com ) delivers bicycles to hotels and will provide a map, helmet, backpack, lock and roadside assistance if necessary. Per day rental rates are US$38 for mountain bikes, US$48 for hybrids, US$25 for kids bikes and US$15 for baby seats. A refundable deposit is necessary to insure the bicycle’s safe return.

Business

Business Profile
Federal government departments, such as The Department of State, the Treasury, the IRS (the Internal Revenue Service), the Department of Justice and the US Supreme Court, make the federal government Washington, DC’s premier industry. Though Pennsylvania, New Hampshire, Massachusetts and New York avenues border the main business district, other areas of the city are beginning to attract corporate business.

The city’s next most important industry is tourism, and within the DC area is the fourth largest concentration of hotel rooms in the USA. About 19 million visitors arrive each year to explore the wealth of free museums and attractions. Because it is the nation’s capital, it is a centre for embassies and visiting diplomats as well as a hub of operations for political groupings, such as the Organisation of American States (OAS), trade, law, higher education (there are six major universities in Washington), publishing, medical research and government-related research. The city has also attracted the headquarters of organisations such as Marriott, Amtrak, Mobil Oil, MCI Telecommunications, Gannett News, US Airways, the World Bank and International Monetary Fund (IMF). The late 1990s saw an increase in the number of private sector jobs in the city whereas federal and local government employment decreased. Now, ‘Uncle Sam’ accounts for less than 20% of the region’s total workforce. Of the top-10 DC area employers, three are universities and four are medical facilities.

The success of the MCI Center (a 20,000-seater sports and entertainment arena) and an economic resurgence with a downtown revival, including new restaurants, shops and offices, has helped to transform the city. The new, 213,677 sq metres (2.3 million sq foot) state-of-the-art Washington Convention Center at Mount Vernon Square has had a positive impact on its immediate surroundings. New hotels and restaurants have attracted a steady stream of visitors.

Mayor Williams has instituted an action plan to guide DC from economic uncertainty to financial stability through tourism, business and assistance for the unemployed. In 2003, the unemployment rate for the whole of the District of Columbia was 3.1%, a very slight unemployment decline (0.01%) over last year, but good compared to the national average of 5.9%. The area’s biggest demand for workers are in the fields of health, technology, skilled office workers and low paying jobs that have a large turnover like guards, waiters, waitress, food and maintenance workers.

Business Etiquette
Generally, American businesspeople are more informal in their work attire than Europeans but in Washington, DC men always wear suits and women stylish and conservative business attire. National and international organisations tend to be more formal, although smaller companies now operate a smart-casual clothes policy (no jeans). Appointments for meetings should be made, and punctuality is expected. It is quite common for meetings to be held over lunch, although the prohibitive cost of eating out in the city at traditional business venues means that some companies bring in outside caterers to the office for important, large-scale lunch meetings. Business dinners tend to take place in restaurants rather than at home. Cocktails after work are commonplace. There are a large number of bars, particularly around Dupont Circle, which have happy hours until 1900. The use of business cards is routine. Though working hours are often much longer, business hours are generally Monday to Friday 0900-1730.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
The grand formal vista of the National Mall contains many of Washington, DC’s most important monuments and institutions. The Mall is particularly striking during the spring blossoming of the Japanese cherry trees and in the winter with the Christmas trees and lights. Most dramatic are monuments like the Jefferson Memorial, the Washington Monument and the Capitol that seem to glow against the night skies.

Smart townhouses, cobblestone streets, cafés, shops and lovely riverside walks, plus a lively nightlife, make the elegant neighbourhood of Georgetown quite attractive. Washington’s elite occupies many of the homes. Across town, Chinatown, with its colourful Friendship Arch, is the centre for oriental speciality shops and restaurants. A favoured recreation ground for city dwellers is Rock Creek Park in the northwest of the city. The creek itself passes through the heart of the park, which also has bicycle, bridle and jogging paths. Since 11 September 2001, the Pentagon, the country’s heart of national and international security, is no longer open for public tours, but if it is intrigue you seek, visit the International Spy Museum. It chronicles the history and schemes of spies and espionage.

Tourist Information
Tourist Information Washington, DC Convention and Tourism Corporation
901 7th Street NW, Suite 4001
Tel: (202) 789 7000. Fax: (202) 789 7037.
Website: www.washington.org

Although this is the official Washington, DC tourism site, information cannot be obtained in person here.

Washington, DC Chamber of Commerce Visitor Information Center
Ronald Reagan Building and International Trade Center
1300 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Tel: (866) 324 7386 (DCISFUN).
Website: www.dcvisit.com
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1630, Sat 0900-1600.

Another useful website is www.dc.gov

Visitors may also see SAMs (safety and maintenance personnel; website: www.downtowndc.org ), who are specially trained hospitality workers dressed in red uniforms. They operate throughout the Downtown area to provide a service to visitors by giving directions and helping to find area attractions, restaurants, hotels and shops.

Passes
There are no tourist passes available.

Key Attractions

White House
The most famous building in the city is the White House, home to the first family and a high spot on any visit to Washington, DC. Very little of the building is on show but most enjoy the opportunity to enter the powerhouse of the USA. A self-guided tour takes around 15-20 minutes passing by the Vermeil Room and Library and through the rooms on the State floor. Information on the rooms can be obtained from the US Secret Service Tour Officers stationed there. Additional information on the architecture, first families, social events and son on, can be obtained from the White House Visitor Information Center (daily 0730-1600) on the southeast corner of 15th and E Streets. The centre also features a 30-minute video and White House exhibits including first families and furnishings.

1600 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Tel: (202) 456 7041. Fax: (202) 456 2461.
Website: www.whitehouse.gov/history/tours
Transport: Federal Triangle and Metro Center Metro stations.
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1200 (occasionally closed at short notice for official events), Visitor Center: daily 0730-1130.
Admission: Free. White House visitors request passes from their Congressmen (US citizens) or respective embassy (overseas visitors).

White House tourist information can be obtained from:
White House Visitor Information Center
US Department of Commerce Building 1450 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Tel: (202) 208 1631.
Website: www.nps.gov/whho
Opening hours: Daily 0730-1600.

Federal Bureau of Investigation (FBI)
A fascinating place to visit when in the city is the Federal Bureau of Investigation, the headquarters of the famous US law enforcement agency, the FBI. A one-hour guided tour includes crime laboratories where scientific examinations take place, historic exhibits of famous cases and a firearms demonstration by a special agent. The tour is closed for renovation at present. Check website for proposed tour resumption.

J Edgar Hoover FBI Building
935 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Tel: (202) 324 3447.
Website: www.fbi.gov
Transport: Metro Center, Gallery Place/Chinatown.
Opening hours: Currently closed.
Admission: Free.

Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial
The Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial depicts the 32nd US president in his wheelchair and honours his services to the country during four terms of office. In addition, there are also bronze sculptures of Eleanor Roosevelt, events from the Great Depression and World War II.

1850 West Basin Drive, SW
Tel: (202) 426 6841.
Website: www.nps.gov/frde
Transport: Smithsonian Metro station.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-2400.
Admission: Free.

International Spy Museum
All is not what it seems at one of Washington’s most fun museums. Through multimedia presentations, hands-on exhibits and audiovisual effects, focus is on educating the public about espionage’s impact on current and historic events. Spy paraphernalia such as decoder machines, miniature cameras, a lipstick pistol and even James Bond’s Astin Martin with machine gun headlights are on display. Visitors can assume a cover, break codes and identify spies. Each period of espionage history is showcased in an appropriate setting: Mata Hari and The Sisterhood of Spies are set in a boudoir; a European farmhouse documents the activities of the OSS (the Office of the Strategic Services, the forerunner of the CIA), and a fallout shelter chronicles the Cold War.

800 F Street, NW
Tel: (866) SPYMUSEUM (779 687386) or (202) EYE SPY U (393 7798) for all up-to-date information.
Website: www.spymuseum.org
Transport: Gallery Place/Chinatown or National Archives/Navy Memorial.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1900 (Apr-Oct) 1000-1700 (Nov-Mar).
Admission: $13, concessions available.

Korean War Veterans Memorial
Located adjacent to the Lincoln Memorial Reflecting Pool, the marble and limestone Korean War Veterans Memorial was built entirely with funds donated from individuals and dedicated in 1995. Sitting on a 0.89-hectare (2.2 acres) site, the sculpture features 19-foot soldiers in combat, with the American flag as their symbolic objective. A mural wall is inscribed with the words ‘Freedom is not free’ and the images of thousands of the ordinary personnel who supported the combat troops in the military operation.

Independence Avenue at the Lincoln Memorial
Tel: (202) 426 6841.
Website: www.nps.gov/kwvm
Transport: Foggy Bottom-GWU Metro station.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-2400.
Admission: Free.

Lincoln Memorial
The imposing 5.8m (19ft) marble statue of Abraham Lincoln, the 16th president of the United States, gazes from the Lincoln Memorial across the Reflecting Pool to the Washington Monument. The style of the memorial is that of a Greek temple with 36 Doric columns, but it is the statue of Lincoln, sculpted by Daniel Chester French, that steals the show. On the interior walls, there are inscriptions from the Gettysburg Address and his second inaugural speech.

West Potomac Park at 23rd Street, NW
Tel: (202) 426 6841.
Website: www.nps.gov/linc
Transport: Foggy Bottom-GWU Metro station.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-2400.
Admission: Free.

National Mall
Many of Washington’s most important monuments and institutions, described individually below, are located in the National Mall, a green park area extending three kilometres (two miles) from the US Capitol to the Washington Monument. Major Pierre L’Enfant originally planned the Mall as a grand avenue lined with mansions, but lack of funds meant that the site was just left as an open area used for grazing animals. It was not until the beginning of the 20th century, when many more public institutions and monuments had been constructed in the immediate area (including the White House), that they were linked with the series of gardens that now make up the Mall. It is an ideal place for people watching from one of the many benches shaded by 200-year-old elm trees and is also the site for many celebrations throughout the year, such as the Independence Day Celebrations on 4 July.

Between Constitution and Independence Avenues, SW
Tel: (202) 485 9880.
Website: www.nps.gov/nama
Transport: Smithsonian Metro station.
Admission: Free.

National WW II Memorial
The newest addition to the National Mall, which will be dedicated on 29 May 2004, is a commemoration to World War II soldiers, the home front and the nation. The monument will consist of fountains and pools surrounded by pillars, pathways and two large arches which represent the Pacific and Atlantic.

Off Independence Avenue, just south of 17th Street on the National Mall
Tel: (800) 639 4WW2 (4992) or (202) 426 6841.
Website: www.wwiimemorial.com
Transport: Smithsonian Metro station.
Admission: Free.

Smithsonian Institution Museums
The Smithsonian Institution (website: www.si.edu ) encompasses many museum and research centres around the city which are: Anacostia Museum and Center for African-American History, Arthur M Sackler Gallery, Arts & Industries Building, Freer Gallery of Art, Hirschorn Museum & Sculpture Garden, the two National Air and Space Museums which includes the facility on 6th Street and Independence Avenue and the new Udvar-Hazy Center in Chantilly, Virginia, near Dulles Airport, National Museum of African Art, National Museum of American History, National Museum of Natural History, National Museum of the American Indian (scheduled to open in September 2004), National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian National Postal Museum, National Zoological Park, Renwick Gallery of Smithsonian American Art Museum, and the Smithsonian American Art Museum.

Some key ones are detailed below. At the time of writing, the Smithsonian is implementing an extensive programme of redevelopment, so some museums are closed, such as the National Portrait Gallery and the Smithsonian American Art Museum (both are scheduled to reopen in 2006). Visitors should check the general website for information.

Smithsonian Information Center
Located in the red sandstone building known as the Castle, the centre has two orientation theatres, wall maps and interactive touch-screens in six languages.

Jefferson Drive on the National Mall
Tel: (202) 357 2700.
E-mail: info@si.edu
Website: www.si.edu/visit
Transport: Smithsonian Metro station.
Opening hours: 0900-1730.
Admission: Free.

National Air and Space Museum
The most popular of all the Smithsonian Museums, the National Air and Space Museum traces the development of air and space travel. It is home to the original Wright Brothers’ 1903 Flyer, Charles Lindbergh’s Spirit of St Louis, the Bell X-1, the plane that broke the sound barrier in 1947, the Apollo 11 lunar command module and a vast collection of aviation and space technology memorabilia. Free 90-minute tours trace the history of air and space. The museum also houses an IMAX film theatre and the Albert Einstein Planetarium.

6th Street and Independence Avenue, SW
Tel: (202) 357 1400.
Website: www.nasm.si.edu
Transport: L’Enfant Plaza and Smithsonian Metro stations.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1730.
Admission: Free (museum); US$8 (planetarium); US$8 (IMAX); US$13 (combined ticket).

National Museum of Natural History
The Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History has a superb collection of dinosaur fossils, an insect zoo, the world’s largest preserved bush elephant, the 45.5-carat Hope Diamond and an IMAX film theatre. The recently opened Mammal Hall is devoted to mammal and human diversity, evolution and adaptation.

10th Street and Constitution Avenue, NW
Tel: (202) 357 2700.
Website: www.mnh.si.edu
Transport: Federal Triangle or Smithsonian Metro station.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1730.
Admission: Free (museum); US$8 (IMAX); (US$13 double feature).

National Zoological Park
The National Zoological Park is also part of the Smithsonian Institution and is famous throughout the world for its work in species preservation and conservation research. Originally founded in 1889, the zoo, which covers the steep slopes of the gorge cut by Rock Creek, has introduced simulations of the habitats of many of its animals. Habitats include an outdoor primate enclosure, a wetlands area, a pollinarium for humming-birds and butterflies, a reptile centre and Amazonia, a recreation of the world’s largest tropical rain forest. The zoo’s two giant pandas are one of its most popular attractions.

3001 Connecticut Avenue
Tel: (202) 673 4717 or (202) 673 4800 (recorded information line).
E-mail: nationalzoo@nzp.si.edu
Website: www.natzoo.si.edu
Transport: Woodley Park-Zoo or Adams Morgan Metro station.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1630 (until 1800 in the summer); grounds open 0600-1800 (until 2000 in the summer).
Admission: Free.

Thomas Jefferson Memorial
The Thomas Jefferson Memorial is a 5.8m (19ft) statue of the third US president. Surrounded by passages from the 1776 Declaration of Independence, his memorial was not erected until over 100 years after his death. Built in a neo-classical style and framed by the cherry trees along the Tidal Basin, it is one of the most attractive on National Mall, especially at night.

Tidal Basin South end of 15th Street, SW
Tel: (202) 426 6841.
Website: www.nps.gov/thje
Transport: Smithsonian Metro station.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-2400.
Admission: Free.

Vietnam Veterans Memorial
Though simply designed, the Vietnam Veterans Memorial is the most moving. Opened in 1982, the 70 separate panels of the V-shaped black granite walls, 150m (493ft) in length, are inscribed with the names of the 58,209 Americans missing or killed in the Vietnam War. What makes the site even more poignant is the common occurrence of relatives making rubbings of their loved ones names.

Constitution Avenue and Henry Bacon Drive, NW
Tel: (202) 426 6841.
Website: www.nps.gov/vive
Transport: Foggy Bottom-GWU Metro station.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-2400.
Admission: Free.

US Capitol
US legislative policy is shaped under the magnificent 55m (180ft) white dome of the US Capitol. The cornerstone of the US Capitol, home to the Senate and the House of Representatives, was laid in 1793. It was not until 1800 that Congress moved into its new home, even though only the north wing was finished completely. The white-painted dome is visible from all parts of the city and is topped by a 5.8m (19ft) Statue of Freedom. Several areas of the building are open to the public, including Statuary Hall, the original Supreme Court Chamber and the Crypt (the intended burial place of George Washington and his wife).

Capitol Hill
Tel: (202) 225 6827. Fax: (202) 228 0603.
Website: www.aoc.gov (click on ‘Visiting’)
Transport: Capitol South and Union Station Metro stations.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1630 (until 2000 in summer). Guided tours: Mon-Sat every 30 minutes. Tours are available on a first-come first-served basis, but it does not hurt to contact your ambassador or congressman regarding a pass.
Admission: Free.

Washington Monument
Dedicated to the first president of the United States, the Washington Monument dates from 1885 and is 169m (555ft) tall. A lift takes visitors to the top to enjoy spectacular views of the surrounding area. Recent improvements to the monument include the 193 restored Memorial Stones, which have been donated over the years (from July 1848) by states, cities and foreign countries to pay tribute to George Washington, as well as new exhibits about the nation’s Founding Father and the history of the monument.

15th Street, SW
Tel: (202) 426 6841.
Website: www.nps.gov/wamo
Transport: Smithsonian Metro station.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1645.
Admission: Entrance by timed tickets only. Free on the day of admission on a first-come first-served basis at the kiosk on the Washington Monument grounds at 15th Street and Madison Drive. Advance tickets are available for $1.50 plus $.50 service charge (tel: (800) 967 2283).

United States Holocaust Memorial Museum
The films, photos, eyewitness testimonies and artefacts that tell the story of the Holocaust often leave visitors dabbing their eyes at the United States Holocaust Memorial Museum. Three rooms cover life in the 1930s, continue through the Nazi rise to power and the subsequent genocide and conclude with the liberation and the aftermath of the Holocaust. No passes are required for Remember the Children: Daniel’s Story, a sensitive exhibit geared to help children understand the horrors of the Holocaust.

100 Raoul Wallenburg Place, SW
Tel: (202) 488 0400. Fax: (202) 488 2695.
E-mail: visitorsmail@ushmm.org
Website: www.ushmm.org
Transport: Smithsonian Metro station.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1730, closed on Yom Kippur and Christmas Day.
Admission: Free. Timed passes are required for access to the permanent exhibition. Tickets are free on the day of admission on a first-come first-served basis or in advance (tel: (800) 400 9373; website: www.tickets.com) for a service charge of $1.75.

Further Distractions

Bureau of Engraving and Printing
This is definitely the place to go if you like money. The Bureau of Engraving and Printing is responsible for designing and printing the green stuff as well as stamps and US securities. During the 35-minute tour, visitors see blank sheets of paper being turned into millions of dollars in cash. Sorry, they do not give samples.

14th and C Streets, SW
Tel: (202) 874 3019 or (866) 874 2330. Fax: (202) 874 6331.
Website: www.moneyfactory.com
Transport: Federal Triangle.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1600. The visitors centre is open 0830-1500.
Admission: Free. No tickets are required from October to April. From April to October, they are given on a first-come first-served basis. A valid photo ID is required to obtain tickets.

National Archives & Records Administration (NARA)
Although the archives houses more than 3 billion records, the ones that visitors flock to see are the Charters of Freedom – the Declaration of Independence, the US Constitution and the Bill of Rights which are encased and displayed in a large marble rotunda. They are difficult to read, but then again they are the 200-plus-year-old originals.

700 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Tel: (202) 501 5000 or (866) 272 6272. Fax (202) 501 5239.
Website: www.archives.gov
Transport: Metro: Archives/Navy Memorial.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1730.
Admission: Free.

National Geographic Society
Originally established in 1888 to fund expeditions to undiscovered parts of the world, the National Geographic Society also brought geography to the masses with the publication of its National Geographic Magazine. At the Society’s Explorers Hall, the latest scientific developments are featured through interactive props and artefacts. In a 72-seat amphitheatre ‘Earth Station One’ simulates an orbital flight. Changing exhibits explore culture and science.

1145 17th Street, NW
Tel: (202) 857 7588 or (800) 647 5463. Fax (202) 828 6679.
Website: www.nationalgeographic.com/explorer
Transport: Farragut North or Farragut West Metro stations.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1700, Sun 1000-1700.
Admission: Free.

Library of Congress
Originally housed in the north wing of the US Capitol when Congress first moved there in 1800, the nation’s library, the Library of Congress, celebrated its bicentennial in 2000. The world’s largest library contains over 40 collections of rare American history materials and nearly 119 million items, including copies of the Gutenberg Bible and a copy of the musical score of the ‘Star Spangled Banner.’ Exhibitions change regularly. There are daily guided tours of the 19th-century Thomas Jefferson Building. Public tours of the library are available Mon-Fri (1030, 1130, 1330, 1430 and 1530). On Saturday there is no 1530 tour.

101 Independence Avenue, SE
Tel: (202) 707 8000. Fax: (202) 707 0190.
Website: www.loc.gov
Transport: Capitol South Metro station.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1730.
Admission: Free.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
From April to October themed walks, such as Embassy Row, Capital Hauntings and Washington Waterfront, are run by Washington Walks (tel: (202) 484 1565; website: www.washingtonwalks.com ). The daily two-hour guided walks start from designated Metro stops. Themes of these tours vary from day to day so call ahead. No reservations are required and the tours cost US$10 (US$5 for children under 12). For DC walking tours that include neighbourhoods, Black heritage, grand hotels and a whole lot of other interesting themes, check out Washington DC Walking Tours (website: www.tourdc.com ) and Cultural Tourism DC (website: www.culturaltourismdc.org ).

Bus Tours
Tourmobile Sightseeing Trams (tel: (202) 554 5100 or (888) 868 7707, toll free in the USA and Canada; website: www.tourmobile.com ) operates daily narrated shuttle tours, stopping at 24 stops and featuring more than 40 major historic sites, including the White House, Smithsonian Institution Museums, Lincoln, Jefferson and Roosevelt memorials, the FBI Building and Arlington National Cemetery. Reboarding is allowed free of charge during the day. Tickets can be purchased from the drivers or at the Tourmobile booths. Depending on the tour, the fares range from US$5.25 to $44 (concessions are available) and do not include any entrance fees. Buses operate from 0900-1830 from 15 June to Labour Day (6 Sep) and from 0930-1630 for the rest of the year. Daily Old Town Trolleys guided tours offer 100 points of interest with ‘on and off’ privileges at 17 stops, allowing passengers to enjoy attractions at their leisure (tel: (202) 832 9800; website: www.historictours.com/washington ; price: US$26).

Boat Tours
A pleasant way to get an overview of the city is to go on a 50-minute boat trip aboard Nightingale II, operated by Capitol River Cruises (tel: (301) 460 7447 or (800) 405 5511, toll free in the USA and Canada; website: www.capitolrivercruises.com ). The tours depart daily from Washington Harbour, 31st and K Street, NW, in Georgetown every hour from 1200 (the last cruise departs at 1900, 2000 or 2100 depending on the season) and cost US$10. Other boat tours include the lunch and dinner Spirit Cruises that leave from Pier 4 at 6th and Water Streets (tel:(866) 211 3811; website: www.spiritcruises.com ; price from U$26). Tourist sites can be seen from the Potomac on one of the Washington Boat & Shore Shot Cruises from May thorough September. October and April (weekends only) tel: (202) 554 6500 or (800) 240 2324; website: www.shoreshot.com ; price from US$10).

Seeing the attractions while paddling around the Potomac with Atlantic Canoe and Kayak is another aqua option (tel: (703) 838 9072 or (800) 297 0066, website: www.atlantickayak.com ).

Bicycle Tours
Bike the Sites (tel: (202) 966 8662; website: www.bikethesites.com ) runs guided tours on bicycles lasting three hours over a mainly flat 13km (eight-mile) route passing an impressive 55 landmarks, including the Washington Monument, White House and Vietnam Memorial. Bicycles, helmets, water and snacks are included in the fee of US$40. The starting point is the Smithsonian Metro Mall exit (south) at 1000 and 1400 from March to December. Other tours cost US$30-80.

Other Tours
Duck tours (1942 ‘restored’ amphibious crafts) are the newest craze in land/water sightseeing (tel: (202) 832 9800; website: www.historictours.com/washington/reservations.htm ). The tours depart hourly from Union Station, cost US$26 and are available mid-March through October.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Arlington National Cemetery: Just across the Memorial Bridge from the Lincoln Memorial is America’s largest national cemetery. Over 260,000 US soldiers, who fought in wars from the American Revolution onwards, are buried here, together with President John F Kennedy and the world champion boxer Joe Louis. Arlington (tel: (703) 607 8000; website: www.arlingtoncemetery.org ) is open every day 0800-1700 (until 1900 April to September) and admission is free. The nearest Metro station is Arlington National Cemetery. Tourmobile Sightseeing Trams (tel: (202) 554 5100 or (888) 868 7707; website: www.tourmobile.com ) operates a narrated tour of the cemetery daily 0830-1830 (0930-1630 October to March) starting at the Arlington Cemetery Visitors Center and costing US$6.

National Air and Space Museum – Steven S Udvar-Hazy Center: The newest of the Smithsonian offerings, the Steven S Udvar-Hazy Center, is big in both physical size, 70,611 sq metres (760,057 sq feet) and exhibits, containing as it does 80% of the National Air and Space Museum’s collection. From two catwalks within its hangars, visitors can view the Space Shuttle Enterprise and two space capsules along with such goodies as the Concorde, the Enola Gay (the plane that dropped the atom bomb) and the Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird, a high-speed, high altitude reconnaissance aircraft. On the far side of the museum is a control tower for observing air traffic at Dulles Airport and an IMAX theatre.

14390 Air and Space Museum Parkway, Chantilly, Virginia
Tel: (202) 357 2700.
Website: www.nasm.si.edu/udvarhzy
Transport: Shuttle service from National Air and Space Museum on the Mall approximately every 90 minutes beginning at 0900 until 1700 (cost: US$7).
Opening hours: 1000-1730
Admission: Free. US$8 (planetarium); US$8 (IMAX); US$13 (combined ticket). Car park: US$12.

For a Whole Day

George Washington’s Mount Vernon Estate and Garden: Located in Virginia around 26km (16 miles) from the city, the delightful home of George and Martha Washington covers 200 hectares (500 acres) and includes his mansion, tomb, Slave Memorial, gardens and restaurants. The estate and gardens (tel: (703) 780 2000 or (800) 429 1520; website: www.mountvernon.org ) are open 0800-1700 April-August, 0900-1700 in March, September and October and 0900-1600 November-February, with an entrance fee of US$11 (concessions are available). A pleasant way to travel is to take the Spirit Cruise Line (tel:(866) 211 3811; website: www.spiritcruises.com , from US$32), which leaves Pier 4 at Sixth and Water Streets, SW, at 0900 for the 90-minute journey and returns from Mount Vernon at 1300. The fare of US$30 (concessions are available) includes admission to the estate and gardens. Gray Line of Washington (tel: (202) 289 1995 or (800) 862 1400, toll free in the USA and Canada; website: www.graylinedc.com ) also runs tours, which also include Alexandria for $30.

Gettysburg, Pennsylvania: Just 90 minutes from Washington, Abraham Lincoln made a two-minute speech to dedicate the new cemetery to the Civil War dead. His famous Gettysburg Address at Cemetery Ridge reminded the nation of the true purpose of the sacrifice the people had made. Gettysburg is also the site of the largest battle ever fought on American soil when, in July 1863, the Union Army under General George C Meade defeated the Confederate forces under General Robert E Lee. There are numerous places of interest in the town, including houses that featured significantly in the fighting, now open to the public. Information can be obtained from the Gettysburg Convention and Visitors Bureau, 35 Carlisle Street (tel: (717) 334 2100; fax: (717) 334 6905; e-mail: info@gettysburg.com; website: www.gettysburg.com ). The tour bus company Gray Line of Washington (tel: (202) 289 1995 or (800) 862 1400, toll free in the USA and Canada; website: www.graylinedc.com ) runs tours to Gettysburg lasting 10 hours and costing US$68.

Sport

The Washington Capitals, a National Hockey League team, plays from October to April at the MCI Center on 601 F Street, NW (tel: (202) 432 SEAT (7328) for tickets US$10-84; website: www.washcaps.com ). The Washington Wizards, three-time Eastern Conference champions of the National Basketball Association, shares the same venue from September to April (tel: (202) 661 5050, website: www.nba.com/wizards , tickets US$15-175). Only established since 1997, the Washington Mystics (tel: (202) 661 5050, website: www.wnba.com/mystics , tickets US$14-50), of the Women’s National Basketball Association play in summer and also call the MCI Center home. The Washington Redskins (tel: (301) 276 6050, website: www.redskins.com ) football team have been Super Bowl champions several times and their popularity makes it very difficult to purchase tickets (US$50-85) for individual games at the FedEx Field in Landover, MD. Major League Soccer Champions in 1996, 1997 and 1999, DC United (website: www.dcunited.com ) play at RFK Stadium, 2400 East Capitol Street, SE. Tickets for individual games (US$12-35) can be obtained from Ticketmaster (tel: (202) 432 7328 or (800) 551 7328, toll free; USA and Canada only; website: www.ticketmaster.com ).

Fitness Centres: Many clubs are open for members only but many hotels have their own fitness centres. City Fitness, 3525 Connecticut Avenue, NW (tel: (202) 537 0539), offers day passes.

Golf: Most golf courses in the Washington, DC area and in nearby Maryland and Virginia are for the exclusive use of members. There are a few in the suburbs, however, which are open to the public, although they are very popular and should be booked in advance. East Potomac Public Golf Course, East Potomac Park, SW (tel: (202) 554 7660), and Rock Creek Public Golf Course, 1600 Rittenhouse Street, NW (tel: (202) 882 7332), both have 18 holes. The green fees for 18 holes at both clubs are US$16 weekdays and US$22 at weekends at Rock Creek.

Tennis: There are several public outdoor tennis courts throughout the city in some of the neighbourhoods. Facilities are available at the East Potomac Tennis Center, 1090 Ohio Drive, SW (tel: (202) 554 5962), and at the Rock Creek Park Tennis Center, 16th and Kennedy Streets, NW (tel: (202) 722 5949). A complete list of tennis court locations can be obtained from the DC Department of Recreation (tel: (202) 673 7647).

Shopping

Washington, DC is not a manufacturing area so it is not known for its locally produced items. It is a very affluent area, however, and subsequently there are numerous shopping malls and districts. The Georgetown neighbourhood is a popular shopping destination because of its charming streets, despite parking problems and the lack of a convenient Metro station. The Shops at Georgetown Park, a 19th-century styled mall (website: www.shopsatgeorgetownpark.com ), situated at M Street and Wisconsin Avenue, NW, was originally built to house buses and streetcars. In the 1960s, it became the location of the Situation Room for the White House and the site of the first hotline to Moscow. Under a huge skylight and surrounded by an elegant Victorian interior of chandeliers and wrought iron, there are about 100 shops and cafés with prices definitely not aimed at the bargain hunter.

Downtown is Union Station (website: www.unionstationdc.com ) on Massachusetts Avenue, which has shopping on two levels with over 100 outlets, including familiar names such as Ann Taylor, B Dalton Bookseller and Jos A Bank. More upmarket shopping can be found at the Mazza Gallerie on Wisconsin Avenue (Metro station Friendship Heights), along the border with Maryland, which is a multi-level shopping centre, housing trendy Neiman Marcus. Fashion Centre at Pentagon City, in Arlington Virginia (Metro station blue and yellow lines Pentagon City) is the quintessential shopping mall. The Adams Morgan neighbourhood offers an interesting international mix of clothing, jewellery, CDs and books. In particular, the shops along 18th Street, NW, between Florida Avenue and Columbia Road, are good for browsing. The shops in the various Smithsonian Institution Museums stock a fascinating collection of gifts, crafts, books, jewellery and toys. Shops linked to the museums are open daily 1000-1700. Car drivers keen to find bargains should make their way 40km (25 miles) south of the city to the Potomac Mills Outlet Mall in Prince William, Virginia, which has over 200 discount stores with brand names such as Royal Doulton, Laura Ashley and Calvin Klein.

There are several farmers markets in the DC area. Some are year-round like the DC Farmers Market near Capitol Hill, 1309 5th Street (Tues-Thurs 0700-1730, Fri and Sat 0700-1830 and Sun 0700-1400), and others are seasonal, such as the Sunday (0900-1300) FreshFarm Market at Dupont Circle.

Washington, DC has a sales tax of 5.75%, which is added to the purchase price at the point of sale. There is no system for visitors to claim the tax back. Many shops are open 0900-1800 Monday to Saturday (with some malls open later into the evening) and 1200-1800 on Sunday.

Culture

Perhaps the most famous theatre in Washington, although not necessarily for its performances, is Ford’s Theatre at 511 10th Street, NW (tel: (202) 347 4833; website: www.fordstheatre.org ) It is the theatre where in 1863, John Wilkes Booth fatally shot Abraham Lincoln. It is now a venue for musicals, multicultural and family plays and is also open from 0900-1700 for free self-guided tours (tel: (202) 426 6924).

The city offers a multitude of other choices for theatregoers. The John F Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts, at 2700 F Street, NW (tel: (202) 467 4600 or (800) 444 1324, toll free in the USA and Canada; website: www.kennedy-center.org ), has six theatres and is home to the Washington Ballet, Washington Opera, the Washington Performing Arts Society and the American Film Institute. Tickets for many performances are hard to come by and are therefore rarely discounted. However, it is worth ringing the theatre box office on the day to check the situation.

The main outlet for discounted, day-of-show tickets is Ticketplace at the Old Post Office Pavilion, 1100 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW (tel: (202) 842 5387), which is open Tuesday to Saturday 1100-1800, and Sunday 1100-1700. Tickets for individual performances can also be purchased from Ticketmaster (tel: (202) 432 7328 or (800) 551 7328, toll free in the USA and Canada; website: www.ticketmaster.com ). During the summer, there are regular free outdoor concerts throughout the city, for example in Georgetown, near the Washington Monument and by the US Capitol. For up-to-date information on what is on each week, the free listings paper, Washington City Paper, is published on Fridays.

Music: The Washington Opera (tel: (202) 295 2400 or (800) 876 7372, toll free in the USA and Canada; website: www.dc-opera.org , tickets US$41-285) has its home at the prestigious John F Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts (see above) and has the great tenor Placido Domingo as its artistic director. The National Symphony Orchestra (tel: (202) 467 4600 or (800) 444 1324, toll free in the USA and Canada, website: www.kennedy-center.org/nso , tickets US$19-69) is an artistic affiliate of the Kennedy Center with a regular concert season. As the capital’s orchestra, it performs at presidential inaugurations and leads the Independence Day and Memorial Day celebrations.

Theatre: The National Theatre, 1321 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW (tel: 202) 628 6161 or (800) 447 7400; website: www.nationaltheatre.org ), one of America’s oldest continuously operating theatres, puts on pre-Broadway shows or Broadway hits that are on tour. As a tribute to Abraham Lincoln, the plays and musicals at Ford’s Theatre at 511 10th Street, NW (tel: (202) 347 4833; website: www.fordstheatre.org ) highlight the diversity of American life. The Shakespeare Theatre, 450 7th Street, NW (tel: (202) 547 1122 or (877) 487 8849, toll free in the USA and Canada; website: www.shakespearedc.org ), presents mainly the works of Shakespeare, as its name suggests, but other classics as well. Alternative works are performed Studio Theatre, 1333 P Street, NW, (tel: (202) 332 3300, website: www.studiotheatre.org ) as well as by the Woolly Mammoth Theatre Company (tel: (202) 393 3939; website: www.woollymammoth.net ), and at either Theatre J in the Cecile Goldman Theater of the DC Jewish Community Center, 1529 16th Street, NW, or the AFI Theater in Kennedy Center. Touring Broadway shows and family entertainment, including comedy, dance and music concerts can be seen at the Warner Theatre, 1299 Pennsylvania Avenue (tel: (202) 783 4000; website: www.warnertheatre.com ).

Dance: The Washington Ballet (tel: (202) 362 3606; website: www.washingtonballet.org ; tickets US$29-75) with its home at the John F Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts (see above) has a vast repertoire of both classical and contemporary performances. International dance companies frequently give performances in Washington, DC, both at the Kennedy Center and at the Smithsonian Institution (tel: (202) 357 2700).

Film: There are several cinemas around the city, mainly showing mainstream films, such as AMC Union Station at 50 Massachusetts Avenue, NE (tel: (703) 998 4262), Cineplex Odeon Dupont Circle at 1350 19th Street, NW (tel: (202) 872 9555), General Cinema at Mazza Gallerie at 5300 Wisconsin Avenue, NW (tel: (202) 537 9553), and Cineplex Odeon at 4000 Wisconsin Avenue, NW (tel: (202) 244 0880). In addition, there are several places specialising in alternative works, such as the American Film Institute (tel: (202) 785 4600) at the Kennedy Center and the new American Film Institute Silver Theatre and Cultural Center, 8633 Colesville Road, Silver Spring, Maryland (tel: (301) 495 6720; website: www.afi.com/about/locations/silverspring.aspx ) features an eclectic mix of international and American films.

Because it is the US capital, Washington, DC serves as a popular movie setting. One of the best known has to be All the President’s Men directed by Alan J Pakula in 1976. More recent was Oliver Stone’s 1995 film Nixon, Ivan Reigman’s Dave (1993), Rob Reiner’s The American President (1995) and Clint Eastwood’s Absolute Power (1996). Action films set in the city include A Clear and Present Danger (1994), In the Line of Fire (1993), Independence Day (1996) and Minority Report (2002). Even the horror film The Exorcist (1973) was set in Georgetown and some scenes for Hannibal (2001) were filmed around Union Station. The comedy Head of State, with Chris Rock and Bernie Mac, and The Recruit, with Al Pacino, are two of the most recent DC movies.

Cultural Events: The International Film Festival, Filmfest DC (website: www.filmfestdc.org ) takes place every year in April at various theatres throughout the city, where the best in international cinema, including premieres and restored classics, are featured. The Independence Day celebrations take place on the National Mall with a day full of activities and concerts followed by a spectacular firework display.

Literary Notes: Washington, DC pops up in many novels, as befits the capital of a nation. It regularly appears in the novels of John Grisham, such as The Pelican Brief (1992), as well as the thrillers of Tom Clancy, most made into films, such as Clear and Present Danger (1985) and Patriot Games (1987). Washington, DC is home to the author Gore Vidal, who has set many of his novels here, but specifically chronicled the history of America from the Revolution through to the present day in five novels - Washington, DC (1967), Burr (1974), 1876 (1976), Lincoln (1984) and Empire (1987). Another DC based author is David Baldacci whose Supreme Court drama The Simple Truth (1999) was a favourite of Bill Clinton. The Washington, DC reporters who exposed the Watergate break-in possibly changed the course of history. Carl Bernstein and Bob Woodward’s dogged investigations in All the President’s Men eventually led to the indictment of President Richard Nixon in 1974. Monica’s Story (1999), by Andrew Morton, focuses on the President Clinton/Monica Lewinsky scandal.

Nightlife

The nightlife in the centre of Washington, DC is not so developed as in other cities because few people live in the centre of the city. As a result, bars tend to be the busiest in the early evening. Most entertainment is to be found in the surrounding neighbourhoods, such as Capitol Hill, Georgetown and Adams Morgan. Opening hours are generally from lunchtime to around 0200 and even later at the weekends, although many places only get going at around midnight. Most bars have happy hours in the early evening where drinks can be as little as half price. There is generally a charge of about US$5-15 to enter most clubs. Most venues expect smart dress with definitely no jeans or trainers. There are often age restrictions, generally 21 years (the legal drinking age) and most clubs will require a picture ID. Many clubs only open from Thursday to Saturday so check in the listings paper, the Washington City Paper (website: www.washingtoncitypaper.com ) or the Washington Post entertainment guide (website: www.washingtonpost.com/visitorsguide ) for details of what’s on when and where.

Bars: Half-priced beers and appetisers helped the Front Page, 1333 New Hampshire Avenue, NW, win washingtonpost.com's Best Bets 2003 Readers' Choice contest. Another favourite is Capitol City Brewing Co, a microbrewery with a good selection of beers and some food at 1100 New York Avenue, NW and 2 Massachusetts Avenue, NE. The Brickskellar at 1523 22nd Street, NW, boasts the world’s largest selection of beer. There seems to be at least one Irish bar in most cities now and Washington, DC is no exception - Ireland’s Four Provinces, 3412 Connecticut Avenue, provides live music and Guinness on tap. The Round Robin Bar in the Willard Intercontinental Hotel at 1401 Pennsylvania Avenue is a popular meeting place for the movers and shakers of DC. Most US presidents have come here at one time or another, and it is the place where Henry Clay introduced the Mint Julep to Washington patrons.

Casinos: Casinos are illegal in Washington, DC.

Clubs: The Spot at 619 F Street, NW, is a major nightclub with 20 bars and seven rooms, each with a different type of music, such as house, Latin, salsa and retro. One of the newest dance clubs in town is Five, at 1214-B 18th Street, NW, with two rooms offering progressive house and trance music or down tempo and hip-hop. Grunge, techno, indie, retro and dance music are all on offer at Heaven and Hell, 2327 18th Street, NW, which has regular live music, happy hours and a famous 80s night every Tuesday. The Zanzibar at 700 Water Street, SW, has a real mix of music from jazz to blues, Latin and dance. The popular Felix and the Spy Lounge at 2406 18th Street, NW, plays jazz, swing, skat and funk jazz.

Comedy: The Capitol Steps, 1300 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW. Expect witty political skits and songs from these once congressional staffers turned comedians. The Improv, 1140 Connecticut Avenue, NW, has performances by local and national comics, many of whom have appeared on network shows and cable comedy series. From time to time, there are stand-up comedy nights at the John F Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts, 2700 F Street, NW.

Live music: Blues Alley, 1073 Wisconsin Avenue, NW, is the nation’s oldest surviving jazz supper club. Well-known names have appeared here and patrons can enjoy the show without ordering dinner. The long established 9.30 Club, 815 V Street, NW, attracts an impressive name list of live bands, many of which are international. Trendy Polly’s Café at 1342 U Street, NW, is a favourite hangout for all sections of DC society. The Black Cat at 1811 14th Street, NW is a cool place hosting national, international and alternative live music acts, and Madam’s Organ, 2461 18th Street, NW, in the Adams Morgan neighbourhood, features soul food, along with live R & B, jazz and bluegrass music.

City Statistics

Location: District of Columbia midway along the Atlantic seaboard, 145 kilometres (90 miles) from the Atlantic Ocean, USA.
Country code: 1.
Population: 570,900 (2002 DC city census) and 7.76 million (2001 census which includes Baltimore/Washington consolidated area).
Ethnic mix: Majority white and African-American, with the remainder predominantly Hispanic and Asian.
Religion: Majority Christian plus Jewish, Muslim, Buddhist and Hindu communities.
Time zone: GMT - 5 (GMT - 4 from first Sunday in April to Saturday before second Sunday in October.
Electricity: 110/120 volts AC, 60Hz; American-style flat two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 2°C (37°F).
Average July temp: 25°C (78°F).
Annual rainfall: 884mm (34.8 inches).

Special Events

Restaurant week, 12-19 Jan (and then again in July/Aug), reduced fixed-priced menus in many restaurants, throughout the city
Slave Life at Mount Vernon, the lives and contributions of the slaves who built and operated Mount Vernon, 1-29 Feb
41st Annual Washington Boat Show, 18-20 Feb, Washington Convention Center
St Patrick’s Day Parade, huge parades down Constitution Avenue, NW, 16 Mar 2004
National Cherry Blossom Parade and Festival, parade (on 3 Apr) with carnival floats and marching bands, 27 Mar- 12 Apr
White House Easter Egg Roll, egg rolling, 12 Apr, White House lawn
International Film Festival, 21 Apr-May 2, various theatres throughout the city
Memorial Day Ceremonies, wreath-laying at the Kennedy gravesite and at Vietnam Veterans’ Memorial, 31 May
National Barbecue Battle, free food samples, cooking demonstrations and competition between local and national BBQ restaurants, 26-27 Jun on Pennsylvania Avenue
Smithsonian Folklife Festival, a music, song and dance celebration to contemporary traditions, 23-27 Jun and 30 Jun-4 Jul, National Mall
Independence Day, day-long concerts and activities including fireworks over the Washington Monument, 4 Jul, National Mall
The Kennedy Center Prelude Festival, celebrates the performing arts, 31 Aug-20 Sep, Kennedy Center
Taste of DC, an outdoor music and foodfest, 9-11 Oct, Federal Triangle
Marine Corps Marathon, 26 Oct, starts and ends at the Marine Corps War Memorial in Arlington, VA
Veterans’ Day Ceremonies, presidential wreath-laying and memorial service honouring the nation’s war dead, 11 Nov, Arlington National Cemetery
National Christmas Tree Lighting Pageant of Peace, the President lights the giant National Christmas Tree, 2 Dec, the Ellipse
Pearl Harbor Day Ceremony, wreath-laying ceremony to commemorate the attack on Pearl Harbor, 7 Dec, US Navy Memorial

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: US$1.10
33cl bottle of beer: US$1.30
Financial Times newspaper: US$1
36-exposure colour film: US$6.90
City-centre bus ticket: US$1.20
Adult football ticket: US$50-85 (when they are available)
Three-course meal with wine/beer: US$42

1 American Dollar (US$1) = £0.57; C$1.16; A$1.31; ¬0.83
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005