Macedonia
Bordering onto Albania, Macedonia (Former Yugoslav Republic of) and Bulgaria, Macedonia stands slightly apart from the rest of the country; its scenery and climate have more in common with the adjoining Balkans, the mountains being bitterly cold in winter. Though little known by foreign tourists, this is still a particularly beautiful part of Greece, rich in historical monuments and archaeological sites. The region’s capital, Thessaloniki, is the second-largest city in Greece. A modern industrial port, partly protected by impressive city walls, it is home to the superb Archaeological Museum, housing the ‘Treasures of Ancient Macedonia’. On the seafront, the imposing 16th-century White Tower, built by the Ottomans as part of the city’s defence system, houses an excellent Byzantine Art Collection. Churches of note include the fourth-century Rotonda (also known as St George’s), Agios Dimitrios with its seventh-century mosaics, and the eighth-century Agia Sofia, converted into a mosque during Ottoman rule. The main ancient sites are the Arch of Galerius built in AD 297, and the ruins of the Roman Agora.
Southeast of Thessaloniki are the three mountainous peninsulas of Halkidiki: Kassandra, Sithonia and Agio Oros (Mount Athos). Kassandra and Sithonia shelter Northern Greece’s best beaches and are both popular holiday resorts. However, Mount Athos, with its renowned monasteries, is undoubtedly the region’s highlight. The first religious community, Megistis Lavras, was founded here in AD 963. Between the 13th and 16th centuries, the number of monasteries multiplied, until there were about 30,000 monks living in the area. Today, about 1500 monks remain (predominantly Greeks, but also some Russians, Bulgarians and Serbs), housed in 20 monasteries. Women (and female animals) are refused entry, but men can gain a special permit by proving religious or scholarly interests. For further information, contact: The Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Directorate of Churches, Zalokosta 2, Athens (tel: (210) 368 1000/2000/2311/3000/4000; website: www.mfa.gr), or the Ministry of Macedonia and Thrace, Directorate of Political Affairs, Plateia Diikitiriou, 541 23 Thessaloniki (tel: (2023) 103 7900; website: www.mathra.gr). East along the coast, Kavala is a modern, commercial seaside port with hotels, beaches, museums, restaurants and tavernas. The old town retains many traditional features, notably the aqueduct and Byzantine fortress. There are some good sand beaches, and facilities for fishing, water-skiing and sailing. From here one can reach the island of Thassos, another popular summer retreat with fine beaches, hotels, and some interesting ancient ruins. North of Kavala, Filippoi is one of Macedonia’s most extensive archaeological sites. Named after the father of Alexander the Great, it is where Caesar’s murderers, Brutus and Cassius, were defeated by Octavius in 42 BC, and is believed to be the site of St Paul’s first recorded preaching in Greece.
West of Thessaloniki, at Vergina (Aigai), findings from the monumental fourth-century BC ‘royal tombs’ are displayed in an excellent museum, housed underground, within one of the former burial mounds.
Further west still, overlooking Kastoria Lake, lies the beautiful town of Kastoria, home to some exquisite frescoed Byzantine churches and an important fur coat industry. From Kastoria, driving north to the border with Albania and Macedonia (Former Yugoslav Republic of), are the Prespa Lakes (Limnes Prespes) contained within the Prespa Lakes National Park.
Going east from Macedonia, the towns and villages become more oriental in style. Xanthi is an attractive small town clinging to the hilly sides of the Remma Valley. Southwest of Xanthi is Avdira. Nearby Lagos, built on the narrow strip of land in the lagoon, is rich in wildfowl. One of the best northern beaches is 8km (5 miles) east of Fanari. The main road dips down to the coast before going inland again to Komotini, further east, then follows the coast via Nea Hili to Alexandroupolis, which has an archaeological museum of local finds. North from here is Soufli, famous for its silks. East from here lies the River Evros, marking the natural boundary with Turkey.
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