The East
Eastern Korea provides breathtaking mountain and coastal scenery, a blaze of colour in autumn and a fine setting for wintersports with modern, fully-equipped ski centres. The mountains run down to the sea along much of the 390km- (240 mile-) east coast but are interspersed by harbours, fishing villages and long, sandy beaches, such as the popular resort of Hwajinpo. The beautiful beaches of the Samchok area range from tiny, undiscovered coves to large resorts. The incredibly scenic volcanic island of Ullungdo lies 130km (80 miles) off the coast and is accessible by ferry. Three of Korea’s National Parks, Soraksan, Odaesan and Chuwangsan, are accessible from the East Coast highway. Soraksan National Park, the northernmost, is widely considered to offer the most beautiful scenery in Korea with its rugged peaks, waterfalls, forests and temples. Excellent tourist facilities range from hiking trails and campsites to the Osaek Springs luxury hot spring resorts. The resort village of Soarkdong is a popular starting point for climbing expeditions and a cable car runs from the village to the ancient Kwongumsong Fortress from where there are spectacular views. For wintersports, the nearby Alps Ski Resort is well known. Odaesan National Park is famous for its ski resorts, as is the Dragon Valley (Yongpyong) area further south. Rock climbers will enjoy the challenges of the Chiaksan area.
Towards the centre of the country, Songnisan National Park is another area renowned for its natural beauty. The famous Popchusa Temple dates back to AD 553 and has an impressive pagoda, and a number of art treasures such as an immense standing Buddha. Rural Andong district retains much of its traditional culture and the Musil Folk Village and Museum is well worth visiting. The nearby Hahoe Folk Village is particularly known for its mask makers and dancers. The annual Andong Folk Festival and Masked Dance Festival takes place in October.
Known as Korea’s ‘museum without walls’, Kyongju is a repository of ancient Korean history and Buddhist culture and has been designated by UNESCO as one of the world’s 10 most historically significant sites. Capital of the Shilla Kingdom from 57 BC to AD 935, many traces of the temples, palaces and monuments of that era still remain. The most impressive structure to survive is undoubtedly the seventh-century Chomsongdae, an observatory that ranks amongst the oldest in Asia. Nearby Tumuli Park contains 20 tomb mounds of Shilla Royalty, one of which, the Heavenly Horse Tomb, can be entered. Many treasures of the area, including golden crowns excavated from the tombs, can be seen in the Kyongju National Museum. The Anapji Pond and Gardens are a reconstructed pleasure garden complete with pavilions. The surrounding hills are dotted with ancient monuments and temples and laced with scenic hiking trails.
Within easy reach of Kyongju is the Pomun Lake Resort, a complex of hotels, a convention centre, golf courses, sports facilities, a casino, marina and shopping centres. Nearby Pulguksa Temple is one of the country’s most famous and a major tourist draw. This large wooden temple is beautifully painted and very atmospheric and the stone foundations and pagodas date back to the eighth century. High on the mountain above Pulguksa is the fascinating Sokkuram Grotto, an ancient and highly complex cave-like structure containing a large granite Buddha and wall carvings of guardian deities, all of great artistic importance.
50km west of Taegu City is the Kayasan National Park, at the centre of which is Haeinsa, Korea’s best-known temple. Built in AD 802, it houses the extraordinary Tripitaka Koreana, a set of over 80,000 wooden printing blocks engraved with the complete Buddhist scriptures. Completed in 1252 after 16 years of work, they are still in perfect condition.
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