The North
The lush north is dominated by two great mountains. Tsarantanana, the island’s highest at 2880m (9450ft), is covered with the giant ferns and lichens peculiar to high-altitude rainforests. Montagne d’Arbre (1500m/4900ft) is a national park and is famous for its orchids and lemurs. The monsoon falls in the north between December and March.
A provincial capital, Mahajanga stands at the mouth of Madagascar’s largest river, the Betsiboka. The road to the capital is open between July and October. Boats depart for Nossi Bé and several other islands. The beach here is said to be free of sharks. The island’s finest grottoes are at Anjohibe, 90km (60 miles) inland. There is a nature reserve at Ankarafantsika.
Nossi Bé is Madagascar’s most important holiday resort. An island surrounded by smaller islands lying off the northwest coast, it is one hour by air from the capital. Exotic perfume plants such as ylang-ylang, vanilla (Madagascar is the world’s largest producer), lemon grass and patchouli are grown here. The main town is Hell-Ville. Nearby, there is a ruined 17th-century Indian village.
A provincial capital, Antseranana (formerly Diégo Suarez) is a cosmopolitan seaport overlooking a beautiful gulf at the northernmost tip of the island. There are many lakes, waterfalls and grottoes in the rainforests above the port. Wildlife and flora includes lemurs, crocodiles and orchids. Permission to visit the national park at Montagne d’Arbre nearby must be obtained from the Ministère des Eaux et des Forêts, which has an office in the town. Boats may be taken to Nossi Bé. There is a good sandy beach at Ramena, but sharks may be a problem. The road southwards to the capital is only open between July and October.
Ile Ste-Marie (Nossi Boraha) lies off the east coast, 150km (90 miles) north of Toamasina. Its dense vegetation and the difficulty of navigating the lagoons which surround it made it an ideal base for pirates and, later, a colony for convicts. There are many clove plantations and several historic sites, including Madagascar’s oldest Catholic church. The island is also known for its beautiful white-sand beaches and coral reefs.
Situated on the northeast coast, Toamasina is the country’s main port and a provincial capital. It is an eight-hour drive from Antananarivo and, like the capital, it has several busy markets, including the Bazaar Be. Around 11km (7 miles) north of the town are the Ivolina Gardens, containing every kind of vegetable species from the eastern forests and many varieties of animal life. Vatomandry, further south, is a very popular beach resort even though the sharks prevent swimming.
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