Introduction
The capital, Papeete, is located on the island of Tahiti and has in recent years been transformed into a bustling city, very much at variance with the traditional haere maru ('take it easy') attitude of the rest of the country. It is, however, still an attractive and colourful port set in magnificent scenery. To the west of the capital is Venus Point, where the first Europeans set foot on the island in 1767. It is overlooked by Mount Orohena, the highest point on the island. The Papeete public market, Le Marché, is open all week, but really comes to life on Sunday mornings when out-of-town merchants come to sell their wares. Flowers, spices, fabrics and fresh produce are on offer. The surrounding area is characterised by its spectacular tropical scenery, banana groves, plantations and flowers. Places to see include the Blowhole of Arahoho, which throws water skywards; the Faarumai and Vaipahi waterfalls; the Paul Gauguin Museum and Botanical Gardens in Papeari; the marae (open-air temple) of Mahaiatea, Papara Marae Grotto and Arahurahu. The Lagoonarium de Tahiti offers four fish parks (including a shark pen) and an amazing underwater display (daily 0900-1700).
Some 17km (11 miles) from Tahiti, and connected to it by a 45-minute ferry service or seven-minute flight, is an island with a simpler and more rustic lifestyle and yet offering plenty of entertainment for the tourist, including traditional-style nightlife. Dominated by volcanic peaks, it also has dazzling white sand beaches and clear lagoons ideal for swimming, diving and snorkelling. Excursions include a visit to the beautiful Opunohu Valley, an ancient dwelling place, uninhabited for 150 years, with 500 ancient structures including temples or marae, some of which have been restored. Le Belvédère is a lookout spot from where the best view of the island may be had. The nearby island of Tetiaroa, recently opened to the public and accessible only by air, is an important seabird sanctuary.
The Leeward Islands of the Society Group are ancient and unspoilt islands, all less than one hour from Tahiti by plane or ferry. Huahine, to the northwest of Tahiti, comprises Huahine-Nui (big Huahine) and Huahine-Iti (little Huahine), which are linked by a narrow isthmus. Sheltered by the surrounding coral reef, the coastal waters and lagoons are good for encountering the local aquatic life. The archaeological site near Maeva Village is well worth a visit. Raiatea is the second-largest island of French Polynesia, 193km (120 miles) from Tahiti, and is the administrative centre for the Leeward Islands. In former times, the island was known as Havai'i, the royal and cultural centre of the region. The ideal conditions make the island a year-round destination for sailing and fishing enthusiasts. he 'Vanilla Island' of Tahaa is surrounded by the same reef as Raiatea, and offers a tranquil and relaxed lifestyle as tourism is only starting here. The breeze constantly carries the aroma of vanilla, from the island's numerous vanilla plantations.
The most famous of the Leeward Islands is 45 minutes from Tahiti by plane. Excursions include visits to the small villages outside the main town of Vaitape and climbs up the two mountains of Otemanu and Pahia. There are many opportunities for watersports, such as deep-sea fishing, trips by glass-bottomed boat around the lagoons, scuba-diving, snorkelling and swimming on a nearby motu (small sandy atoll within the reef of Bora Bora). In common with so many other Polynesian islands, Bora Bora has many ancient temples. There are good hotels on the island.
The Tuamotu group of islands is largely uninhabited. There are air and ferry links between Tahiti and several of the more popular islands, including Rangiroa, which has facilities for all forms of watersports. The Marquesas Islands are less well known among tourists, and as yet they have no first-class hotels. Both Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel are buried on Hiva Oa, and, on Ua Huka, it is possible to go horseriding between the numerous valleys. The island of Fatu Hiva offers one of Tahiti's most beautiful locations - the valley of Hanavare, hidden between volcanic rock on the Bay of Virgins - as well as the important archaeological site of Puamau with its intact 2.1m- (7ft-) high tiki, the largest on the Marquesas. The islands are four hours from Tahiti by plane. The Austral Islands have a generally cooler climate than the rest of French Polynesia. The mutineers of the 'Bounty' attempted to make a settlement on Tubuai in 1789. Accommodation is plentiful in the form of bungalows on or near the beach.
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