World Country Guide

Gauteng

The economic hub of South Africa, Gauteng means ‘place of gold’ in Sotho. Built on the gold reefs, it is heavily urban, containing the cities of Johannesburg, Pretoria and a scattering of satellite towns, many of them heavily industrial.
The discovery of gold near Johannesburg in 1886 turned a small shanty town into the bustling modern city that is today the centre of the world’s gold-mining industry and the commercial nucleus of South Africa. The city is currently undergoing a fundamental transformation as planners in the post-apartheid era struggle to integrate wealthy ‘white’ areas to the north, a decaying inner city, and the poverty-stricken ‘black’ townships to the south. The city is, as well as being a potentially dangerous place to live and stroll about, the cultural centre of South Africa, with a post-apartheid influx of traders from the north enhancing its cosmopolitan character.
The Central Business District (CBD) is characterised by a stark contrast of skyscrapers and bustling street markets; most businesses catering to affluent clients have moved out to the northern suburbs. A spectacular view of the city is available from the Observatory on the 50th floor of the Carlton Centre. To the west, of some historical interest, is the Rand Club, haunt of mining magnates past and present. Also west of the centre, Newtown has been the focus of an urban renewal project which includes the excellent Museum Africa, several excellent restaurants, the Market Theatre, a famous centre of alternative theatre during the apartheid era and after; and the South African Breweries’ Centenary Centre. More mainstream theatre, music and dance can be seen at the Civic Theatre in Braamfontein, also the location of the Gertrude Posel Gallery, one of many small, university-run museums, housing a collection of traditional African art.
Just outside the centre is Hillbrow, home to, amongst others, large communities of immigrants from the rest of Africa; a landmark is the massive Ponti building, dubbed ‘petit Kinshasa’ by locals. To the north of the CBD lies Yeoville, more bohemian and considerably safer. The centre of Yeoville life is Rockey Street, lined with cafes and bars where visitors can while away the days in relative peace.
The north of Johannesburg consists of affluent leafy suburbs. Directly north of the city centre, Parktown was the home of the so-called ‘Randlords’, the 19th-century Gold Rush millionaires, whose houses are still an imposing sight. Nearby is a series of wonderful open spaces containing notable landmarks, such as the Johannesburg Zoo, Zoo Lake (across the road) and the South African National Museum of Military History. North of this are Rosebank, teeming with upmarket bars, restaurants and shops; and Sandton, probably the wealthiest part of Johannesburg and to all intents and purposes, now the city centre.
To the south is the city’s only amusement park, Gold Reef City, built on the site of a gold mine, with underground tours as part of the attraction.
Soweto, the massive black ‘township’ to the south, is home to some 4.5 million of the province’s poorest people, and also to many shebeens (informal bars) and thousands of churches representing hundreds of mainline and independent African denominations. The safest way to visit Soweto is as part of an organised tour. Tourists are welcome and there is plenty to see. As well as shebeens and music venues, tours include visits to nationalist landmarks such as Freedom Square, used for rallies, the Hector Peterson Memorial, dedicated to the first child to die in the uprisings, and Nelson and Winnie Mandela’s home, now a small museum.
Further afield, Heidelberg is a small town with an interesting Transport Museum. North of Sandton, are the Johannesburg Lion Park, Snake Park, Rhino and Lion Nature Reserve and Lesedi Cultural Village.
Sterkfontein, in the Magaliesberg mountains, is home to the Wonder Caves, one of the world’s most important prehistoric sites; 2.5 million-year-old Australopithecus africanus was first discovered here.